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  1. #1
    stevewicks's Avatar
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    Temperature Gauge Hitting 120 Degrees?

    Hi guys, hopefully someone can shed some light on my problem, I own a 2003 1.8t sport and it's showing high temperature on the dash and I get the audible bleep and temp high warning icon on the display.

    She's fine poodling around town or sat in traffic, but when I open her up she hits 120 degrees and I get major loss of power.

    I'm having the waterpump and timing belt changed on Monday, at the cost of 400 I might add, as I have seen the water pump is the usual cause, but I'm having doubts.

    I don't really want to change the water pump and timing belt if it's not the pump.

    Oh, i should add that the expansion tank stays luke warm no matter how hight the temperature guage shows, and code 51 on the climate control shows 75 degrees even when the shows from 90 degrees to 120 degrees. Water isn't pumping into the expansion tank either.

    Any ideas?



    Steve

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  3. #2
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    water pump

  4. #3
    djb83's Avatar
    redline responsibly

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    if your getting the pump done you may aswell get the stat done whilst the systems losing fluid when the pump gets done

  5. #4
    Speedy Steve's Avatar
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    Could also be the CTS (coolant temp sensor) that is faulty
    Ive been Badger 5'd

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  6. #5
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    if the temp gauge says 120, water in header and is luke warm and is not flowing then its water pump

    its possible that the sender/stat is knackered but you wont be able to tell untill you have the water pump done, may aswell have them done at same time i suppose, only an extra 50 at most

  7. #6
    stevewicks's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, just thought I'd run it past people that would know before I part company with my 400.

    I'll post when I get the car back on Monday and let you know how it is.

    Would the high temp due to a waterpump failure give me loss of power?

    Steve

  8. #7
    MURRAYS444's Avatar
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    I'd get the timing belt done at the same time if not done
    recently also get a pump with a metal impeler on it!!!

  9. #8
    stevewicks's Avatar
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    Thanks Scott

    The timing belt is being done at the same time, the car has done 86000 miles although the service book says the timing belt was done at about 74000.

    I'd never get an old timing belt put back on a car anyway.

    I will go for the genuine Audi waterpump, it seems they have modified the pump design.

    I am loathed to go for steel or brass impellors as there is more chance of throwing a timing belt if they fail, at least the plastic impellor is inclined to break up without throwing the belt.

    Steve

  10. #9
    MURRAYS444's Avatar
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    Yeah I had the same problem as you in November and went to Audi and was told i would get a pump with a metal impellor and it turns out its the plastic one.

  11. #10
    S3KO4's Avatar
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    As far as I know all a3/s3 above 2000 came with metal impellors, have you thought about the sender and thermostat before doing such a big job? and the temp code is C49 not 51!
    S3-8L REVO stage 2, Milltek, 3" DP & custom 3" decat, RS2 spark plugs, 4 bar FPR, Green-Cotton uprated upper/lower boost hose & TIP, Front Zimmerman & Ferrodo. LCR spliter. boost gauge, smoothed AB. Aero blades, H&R 5mm spacers. Best time 14.03sec, 0-62 in 5.7sec. 207gs @ 25psi , polished inlet mani. VAGCOM 805.1

  12. #11
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    Ok update on the water pump.

    Fontains in Iver, Buckinghamshire fixed it on Monday and fitted a nice new timing belt and tensioner as well.

    I picked up the car and they had given it a full valet, bearing in mind they also dropped me off and picked me up from work.

    The car now runs like a dream, temperature gauge sits around 70 - 75 most of the time now and doesn't go much higher even with excessive use of the right foot.

    Thanks for everyone that helped with the diagnosis.

    Steve

  13. #12
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    temp gauge should sit on 90 degrees mate at all times under all conditions, maybe a shade above if being thrashed or hot summer day etc

    did you get the sender/thermostat replaced as suggested?

  14. #13
    Alex C's Avatar
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    I think code 51 is oil temp, buts its defo not coolant temp, coolant temp is C49, see what that reads
    Alex S3 AMK
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  15. #14
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    do some testing/diagnosing to find out if it is your water pump before spunking 400, i would

  16. #15
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    did u try the thermostat? best option before the waterpump (because of the high labour involved in the water pump change). temp sender cost about 10 aswell so that worth trying first.

    Also to see if its the water pump look into ur coolant botter and see if u can see any black flakes. if so thats the crappy black plastic propeller which has broken causing the failure.

    also with the water pump, start the car and take the cap off. then rev the engine and see if u can see any pumpage.
    Last edited by DaveA3; 25th March 2010 at 14:33. Reason: spelling

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