Chris NottEM Tuning
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  1. #1
    indiemike's Avatar
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    Mud Coolent - Part 2

    Right 1st of all thanks for all the info yesterday about my mud like coolent problem.

    Well today me and a mate drained the pipes, flushed them clean (alot of crap came out) and put some new coolent in. Now we have a new problem that the coolent seems to stay in the reservoir and not flow around the pipe work. Some has actually founds its way through but i think there might be some kind of air lock somewhere in the pipe work, we tried running the car and squising the pipes to help the flow but no luck. Drove the car back home over 20miles and no problems, temperature is at a constant 90c.

    Can anyone help me again lol

    Cheers in advance Mike
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  3. #2
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    did you use any kind of flushing agent, ie washing machine tablets?

    do all the hoses get hot, not just the two top hoses but the hose coming off the thermostat housing should become hot all the way down once the temp hits 90, it took me ages to get the air locks out when i done mine

    also try removing the header tank totally and washing out under a tap, mine was all clogged up to fook

  4. #3
    indiemike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonny87 View Post
    did you use any kind of flushing agent, ie washing machine tablets?

    do all the hoses get hot, not just the two top hoses but the hose coming off the thermostat housing should become hot all the way down once the temp hits 90, it took me ages to get the air locks out when i done mine

    also try removing the header tank totally and washing out under a tap, mine was all clogged up to fook
    No just used water and keept running through the pipe works until they were clear, took the header tank off and got a old tooth brush and made all clean. All hoses become hot and i can feel now and then small amounts of coolent flowing through them. Not sure what to do
    My Much Missed :Imola Yellow S3 - Revo stage 2, SPS3, RS6 reps, Pirelli P Zero Rosso, Cupra R splitter, Brembo's, 323mm EBC Turbo Grooved Discs, Ferrodo DS2500 Pads, Forge DV, Forge FMIC, Fidanza Aluminium Flywheel, Sachs Clutch, Green Cotton Dynatwist induction kit, 3" Downpipe, sports cat, Milltek cat back, Bilstein B8's, KW rear adjustable tie bars Whiteline Adjustable ARB's, Eibach Springs, Powerflex Bushes, Bose Concert System

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  5. #4
    Imteyaz's Avatar
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    I would take up jonny87's suggestion of running some washing machine tabs / coolant flush through the system to break down any 'mud' you have stuck to the walls of the pipes / radiatore core etc. Flush, repeat and run until completely clear, then when everything is back to normal, refill with distilled water and G12++ as required.
    Imteyaz.

  6. #5
    indiemike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Imteyaz View Post
    I would take up jonny87's suggestion of running some washing machine tabs / coolant flush through the system to break down any 'mud' you have stuck to the walls of the pipes / radiatore core etc. Flush, repeat and run until completely clear, then when everything is back to normal, refill with distilled water and G12++ as required.
    Didn't really fancy draining it again lol, is there no bleeding screw anywhere
    My Much Missed :Imola Yellow S3 - Revo stage 2, SPS3, RS6 reps, Pirelli P Zero Rosso, Cupra R splitter, Brembo's, 323mm EBC Turbo Grooved Discs, Ferrodo DS2500 Pads, Forge DV, Forge FMIC, Fidanza Aluminium Flywheel, Sachs Clutch, Green Cotton Dynatwist induction kit, 3" Downpipe, sports cat, Milltek cat back, Bilstein B8's, KW rear adjustable tie bars Whiteline Adjustable ARB's, Eibach Springs, Powerflex Bushes, Bose Concert System

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  7. #6
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    TBH if you slacken the header tank it will prob drop by the morning as the air escapes. Top up and away you go, as long as the pipes are warm and the heater works, water is where it should be.

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    the system is designed to be self bleeding

    make sure the tiny little return hose back to the expansion tank is flowing properly. if thats flowing fluid then its bled

 

 

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