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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Where to start?!

    Right, hello everyone, really need some advice. Just bought my first S3 and bloody perfect, except...

    I took it to Audi Tonbridge to get a knocking diagonsed and surprise surprise, they came back with 2,000 worth of stuff that needs doing. That's on top of the new set of rubber I need (500 for 4 x Eagle F1s) and the new ECS rotors (450 fronts) and pads (200 Hawks) to get it to pass it's MOT next month so I'm pretty much up s*** creek as it'll all have to go on the old credit card.

    I realise going to a main dealer is always worst case senario so I'm trying to figure out what was all crap and what I can do myself. So...

    Both front wishbones bushes adrift and split - this apparently requires complete wishbones as the bushes can't be replaced. Surely that's a load of s*** isn't it? 165 for each wishbone plus 354 labour. Please tell me this isn't the case!

    N/S/R drop link - 19 plus 145 labour. Can't really feel any play in it myself so probably going to give that a miss and hope the MOT guys don't spot it.

    O/S/F ball joint stud broken - 50 plus 236 labour. Seems like a an aweful lot of labour to me!

    Exhaust cat shield bolts rusted away, needs drilling and retapping as it's rattling like mad every time I touch the throttle - 119. I could probably do this myself but from what I've read, I could save myself the hassel and just take it off. What does it actually do other than to shield the cat from stones?

    Rear springs are broken - 129 not inc labour. Anyone know where I can get some cheap?

    Finally the knocking is supposedly down to a worn gearbox mount - 331 inc labour. Apparently it's not rocket science so might give it ago if anyones got any tips. Would that also explain the notchy gear change?

    Obviously Audi are a bunch of misers so does anyone know a good VAG approved garage in south London/Tooting. Sorry to the huge number of questions but now I can't search on here properly I'm a bit screwed.

    Cheers in advance!

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  3. #2
    jojo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piester View Post

    Both front wishbones bushes adrift and split - this apparently requires complete wishbones as the bushes can't be replaced. Surely that's a load of s*** isn't it? 165 for each wishbone plus 354 labour. Please tell me this isn't the case!
    I think it's more cost effective to change the complete wishbones, as you can't buy the bushes seperately, unless you go aftermarket poly ones, I changed the complete wishbones on my S3 when they split!
    N/S/R drop link - 19 plus 145 labour. Can't really feel any play in it myself so probably going to give that a miss and hope the MOT guys don't spot it.
    for piece of mind, I would just buy new ones for 19 and change them myself, if you have the tools that is.

    O/S/F ball joint stud broken - 50 plus 236 labour. Seems like a an aweful lot of labour to me!
    Again, a lot of labour, avoid using stealers!

    Exhaust cat shield bolts rusted away, needs drilling and retapping as it's rattling like mad every time I touch the throttle - 119. I could probably do this myself but from what I've read, I could save myself the hassel and just take it off. What does it actually do other than to shield the cat from stones?
    Do it yourself if you can.

    Rear springs are broken - 129 not inc labour. Anyone know where I can get some cheap?
    Not a lot more to buy a complete set of lowering springs, but if you want to keep it standard, that's what they cost! These are very easy to replace with the correct tools.

    Finally the knocking is supposedly down to a worn gearbox mount - 331 inc labour. Apparently it's not rocket science so might give it ago if anyones got any tips. Would that also explain the notchy gear change?
    Again, how much is the 331 is labour? Shocking!

    Obviously Audi are a bunch of misers so does anyone know a good VAG approved garage in south London/Tooting. Sorry to the huge number of questions but now I can't search on here properly I'm a bit screwed.

    Cheers in advance!
    Dealers = Stealers, once the car is out of warranty, I see no need to go back to a main dealer for work done on your car, unless you think the free cup of coffee/tea is worth it!



    99' Audi S3(APY) - Brilliant Black Click>>>Going Sideways vid!
    You've got to have a laugh! For Sale:LCR Brakes - £400



  4. #3
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    Cheers JoJo. Reckon I'll have a crack at most of it myself. I'm not the handiest bloke with a set of spanners I'll give it a go and see what happens

  5. #4
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    Jeeeezus!!! talk about trying to rob you blind......Id hope they had a comfortable bench for you to bend over when they gave you those quotes. Most of the jobs you mention are easy enough to do with basic tools and a trolley jack. you just need to have half a clue.
    Wishbones are easy to change, Rear Drop links have to be one of the easiest jobs to do (only two nuts to undo....but need to make sure the weight of the suspension is supported ont he jack) and the rear springs are easy too. Just need to compress them and they slide out. might need a bit of force if they are rusted in, but both my rears only took about 45mins to do.
    the cat sheild is an easy job, hardest part is gettin comfortable under the car...haha (unless u have a lift or a pit)

    You might be well off taking it to a local mech who you trust to have a quick look at the bits they mention.

    Good luck mate, let us know how you get on

    2000 Audi S3
    1967 VW Beetle
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    Where Do I go From Here?

  6. #5
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    You can replace the lower wishbone bushes, but most garages say its easier to just replace the wishbone as the new bushes need to be mechanically pressed in. Also been told by a specialist that the area around the bush can wear so new bushes can still have play or even pop out, but this could be BS.

    CAT bash plate does exactly that, but as I was told, if you got a sports cat you wouldnt have one so just remove it.

    What size wheels have you got, I wouldnt pay more than 400 for F1's in 17's fitted. Have you got uprated brakes too? It cost 200 to replace the front disc and front and rear pads using OE parts from Audi but 400 for discs alone seems a lot.

  7. #6
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    I've replaced front wishbone bushes on several Audis. You don't have to change the complete arm and it's easy to do. You don't need a press and your garage need to stop being lazy. How much do they charge for labour as it's only an hour or so work.

    If you've jacked up the front and felt the droplinks and they have no play, don't replace them...simples.

    Ball joint stud? I'm not sure I know what you mean. One of the three bolts that hold it to the wishbone? If a connecting bolt is broken or missing, definitely replace it.

    Pull the CAT shield off and throw it in the bin. Many people run without one. I've not had one fitted for years. Personal choice. If it protecting heat from other components (which I doubt) then you would want to keep it.

    Deffo fix the rear springs. Dangerous to leave the as is. Consider after market items?

    There are two gearbox mounts. One on the passenger side and one at the rear known as the "dogbone". I would say the dogbone mount would be the one to look at. However, they tend to become soft and I'm not sure the knock would come from the mount itself rather than an effect of something else knocking as a result of excessive engine movement. Oh, and the dogbone mount is literally a 10 minute job.....331 would be for the other mount, which is only about an hour if that to change.

    So do you have after market ESC brakes? Two piece front discs? Can you not just purchase the outer section?

    I can't believe the cost of labour these days......scary!

  8. #7
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  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jojo View Post
    Not a lot more to buy a complete set of lowering springs, but if you want to keep it standard, that's what they cost! These are very easy to replace with the correct tools.
    I had a similar idea when my rear spring cracked. until I found out that it's an hour's labour to change both rears compared to 3-4 hours for both the fronts! And not having the space to DIY it at the moment, I plumped for just the standard rear one!

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    What size wheels have you got, I wouldnt pay more than 400 for F1's in 17's fitted. Have you got uprated brakes too? It cost 200 to replace the front disc and front and rear pads using OE parts from Audi but 400 for discs alone seems a lot.
    Got 18's and was probably going to got with either the GSD3's (just found for 482 fitted) or asymmetrics which have generally got better reviews but I'm skint (552 fitted). As for the brakes, it's got an ECS all round, stage 2v2's up front and stage 1 rears and the only way to get the rotors is imported from the US, hence the stupid price. They are also completely custom so I haven't got any choice other than swaping them back for OEM.

    http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI...ECS_Stage_2v2/
    http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MKI.../ECS_Stage_1R/

    The reason I need the new rotors is because the old ones are cracked to s***. I'd stick a photo up but it doesn't want to work.

    Ball joint stud? I'm not sure I know what you mean. One of the three bolts that hold it to the wishbone? If a connecting bolt is broken or missing, definitely replace it.
    Yep, one of the three is completely missing, just a hole there now.

    There are two gearbox mounts. One on the passenger side and one at the rear known as the "dogbone". I would say the dogbone mount would be the one to look at. However, they tend to become soft and I'm not sure the knock would come from the mount itself rather than an effect of something else knocking as a result of excessive engine movement.
    The knocking was coming from the passanger side front wheel area, only when on part acceleration. Take my foot off the gas, nothing. Full acceleration, nothing. Just when cruising on part throttle.

    As for the springs, think I'll go the cheap option and run with standard springs for now. Need to get the essentials out the way before the MOT next month. Going to be a busy few weeks!

  11. #10
    jojo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keeno View Post
    I had a similar idea when my rear spring cracked. until I found out that it's an hour's labour to change both rears compared to 3-4 hours for both the fronts! And not having the space to DIY it at the moment, I plumped for just the standard rear one!
    Yes, of you have to rely on someone to do it, then of course go with standard springs, but if you was prepared to do some of the work yourself, then why not invest in a set of lowered springs.

    @Piester, are you saying your car has 2k+ worth of brakes, and you are still running the standard suspension?



    99' Audi S3(APY) - Brilliant Black Click>>>Going Sideways vid!
    You've got to have a laugh! For Sale:LCR Brakes - £400



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    That's what it came with, only had it a month. Haven't even had a chance to properly drive it in anger yet because of the state of brakes. I'm sure I will get round to sorting the suspension properly but for now it's all about the MOT.

    http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1365346.htm

    What really f**** me off is that I had the bloody AA out to give it a once over before I bought it. 206 point inspection my arse! They didn't pick up on any of this lot as well as a nail in the tyre, broken passanger seat adjuster and dodgy boot catch. Trying to get them to stump up some of the repair cash.

    You live and you learn.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piester View Post
    What really f**** me off is that I had the bloody AA out to give it a once over before I bought it. 206 point inspection my arse! They didn't pick up on any of this lot as well as a nail in the tyre, broken passanger seat adjuster and dodgy boot catch. Trying to get them to stump up some of the repair cash.
    This bothers me as I plan on doing the same when I buy an S3. I am fairly confident in checking a car over myself but was going to do this for peace of mind. How much did you pay? Surely they are bound by some sort of contract?!
    2003 Dolphin Grey S3, with a few mods....

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    Cost me 170 as I'm already with the AA. Reckon they just had an off day as he missed some blatently obvious stuff, but it's a real ball ache just trying to get a refund, let alone a contribution towards the repairs. It's taken three letters of complaint before they've now decided to re-inspect. No warrenty with any of the inspection and because I'd done a few hundred miles in the few weeks I'd owned it, they simply said it was fine when they looked over it. Apparently my car just imploded in a month.

    Nightmare!

  15. #14
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    Hope you get it sorted with them. Just out of interest, did they have vagcom to connect up and check for any ECU faults?
    2003 Dolphin Grey S3, with a few mods....

  16. #15
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    I'm not too keen on these RAC/AA checks. I sold a few years ago, a MINT Mk4 Golf Cabriolet with 20k miles on the clock, one owner(my missus) from new, the guy was getting a bargain, as I/we needed the money, so dropped the price for a quick sale, and he had an RAC check done to it. The RAC man got his paint thickness checker out and scratched the flawless Moonstone Blue paint!, and he absolutely tested everything, I mean things like rotating the fan switch from 0 to 3 in 0.01 secs, something I've never done to my own car etc., so you can imagine it was pretty thorough.
    I never got to see or read the report, but the buyer told me there was a suspect oil leak on the gearbox and wanted a few more hundred off the agreed price... I told him I'm as genuine as they come, the car is straight and owned from new, if you want more money off, I'd happily mail you a cheque back for your deposit, so don't waste my time.... he came to pick it up with a banker's draft the next day.

    Quite miss the car actually.



    99' Audi S3(APY) - Brilliant Black Click>>>Going Sideways vid!
    You've got to have a laugh! For Sale:LCR Brakes - £400



  17. #16
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    I wasn't there at the time but I'm every sure he wouldn't have done as it's supposed to just be a visual check and test drive. Mine was on a Friday so reckon he cut mine short and buggered off down the pub. Twat!

  18. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKE GTR View Post
    + Haynes Manual

  19. #18
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    My old S3!!

    I sold it to Dan about 18months ago, seems to have racked up about 30,000 miles in that time aswell!

    If you want to know anymore about the car or its history please feel free to get in touch mate, glad to see it back on the forums, was an exceptionally well looked after car by me. Just hope its in as good condition now as when i sold it!

    Also, when i sold it, i gave Dan a brand new set of replacement front ECS discs, have you asked him for them?



    Cheers
    Ash

    ash_kidd@tiscali.co.uk
    Last edited by ash_s3; 20th January 2010 at 00:13.
    2001 Audi S3 l MTM Remap l 252.7bhp 432.4Nm l Forge 007P l ECS Porsche Stage 2v2 Front Brake Set-up l ECS Stage 1 Rear Brake Set-up l 18" RS4 Alloy Wheels


  20. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jojo View Post
    @Piester, are you saying your car has 2k+ worth of brakes, and you are still running the standard suspension?
    i have the exact same setup on mine, standard suspension and all lol

    that is really bad that the guy doing the inspection missed so many faults, not exactly small faults either really, i would be going crazy at them!!

    like you said mate done on a friday all he was thinking of was getting a pint down his neck!!

 

 

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