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  1. #1
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    Winter engine start

    Hello, I was wondering what are your thoughts about a cold winter engine start, lets say -5 to -15 Celsius?? Should I start the car and wait for a few minutes to start driving? Or should I start driving as soon as I turn on the engine? The owners manual recommends to start driving as soon as you turn on the engine, but im not sure if this apply even for that cold winter temperatures?
    thanks

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  3. #2
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    just drive it as normal.

    start it, let it idle for as long as it takes to do the usual checks and put your seatbelt on and then drive

  4. #3
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    interesting point there. I turn the car on switch on then the heating and rear screen then get out of the car and spend 5 minutes scraping snow, wait a couple of minutes for me hands to warm up then roll a ciggerete and go. So does that 5 or so minutes matter?

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by A3ster View Post
    interesting point there. I turn the car on switch on then the heating and rear screen then get out of the car and spend 5 minutes scraping snow, wait a couple of minutes for me hands to warm up then roll a ciggerete and go. So does that 5 or so minutes matter?
    I do the same. I dont think it'll have any effect on the car so dont worry.

    I have noticed that my car almost stalls when starting below -5 degrees! It catches the revs and is then ok, it might be my map though!
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    I'll always start it up when I have to scrape ice/snow off it and then do the scraping. Mainly so the heated seats warmed up by the time I get in!
    2000 Audi A3 1.8T Sport - Custom Code Phase 1 remap / Custom Stainless Catback Exhuast / MKII 18" RS4 Reps / Wietec Ultra GT40mm / KW ARB's / Forge TIP / Forge 007 / Green Panel Filter / EBC Greenstuff pads / 312mm S3 front brake upgrade / Aero Wipers / LED Interior Lights / LED Side Repeaters / Face Lift Rear Lights and covered in Dodo Juice

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    If you read your handbook it says start the car and drive but keep revs down. No hard acceleration.
    Nogaro Blue 2001 S3 Quattro, Cream leather interior. Miltek Cat back, Induction kit, KO4 Hybrid Turbo, Chipped Remap, Power Boost Valve, Forge RC DV, Compbrake Racing 4 Pot Calipers with 2piece 350x32mm Conversion Front, 2 piece 330x20mm Compbrake Conversion on Back, Discs are Powervane Racing Rotors Gas slotted and internally veined. Hawk Hps Pads, Goodridge Braided lines to Calipers. Bose Symphony sound system. Compbrake Quickshift and side shift. Big thanks to www.Vagperformance.co.uk

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    I start it with one bar of fan on, driving no more than 20000 revs until temperature needle is at 90. Normally takes about 15 minutes to get there or by the time I've made it on the m4, then drive as normal, albeit with front wheels only. GODDAMN

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    Check the link out it states even the the S3 is Dubbed Quattro it is a Front wheel drive car with the Haldex system that kicks the rear in if need be.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audi_S3
    Nogaro Blue 2001 S3 Quattro, Cream leather interior. Miltek Cat back, Induction kit, KO4 Hybrid Turbo, Chipped Remap, Power Boost Valve, Forge RC DV, Compbrake Racing 4 Pot Calipers with 2piece 350x32mm Conversion Front, 2 piece 330x20mm Compbrake Conversion on Back, Discs are Powervane Racing Rotors Gas slotted and internally veined. Hawk Hps Pads, Goodridge Braided lines to Calipers. Bose Symphony sound system. Compbrake Quickshift and side shift. Big thanks to www.Vagperformance.co.uk

  10. #9
    Kingston's Avatar
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    Quoted "Although dubbed "quattro", the S3 uses a different "on-demand" four-wheel drive system[1]. The Haldex Traction coupling adjusts the bias of torque distribution from the front to rear axle as grip requirements change - most of the time it operates as a front-wheel drive."
    Nogaro Blue 2001 S3 Quattro, Cream leather interior. Miltek Cat back, Induction kit, KO4 Hybrid Turbo, Chipped Remap, Power Boost Valve, Forge RC DV, Compbrake Racing 4 Pot Calipers with 2piece 350x32mm Conversion Front, 2 piece 330x20mm Compbrake Conversion on Back, Discs are Powervane Racing Rotors Gas slotted and internally veined. Hawk Hps Pads, Goodridge Braided lines to Calipers. Bose Symphony sound system. Compbrake Quickshift and side shift. Big thanks to www.Vagperformance.co.uk

  11. #10
    jojo's Avatar
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    It's commonly known that most of the engine wear happens during start up of the car, hence we usually don't rev the rollox out of them when cold, and it obviously warms up quicker on the move than being on idle. Idling for 5 mins to warm up is ok, but to warm it up with normal driving is better for the car in my opinion.


    Quote Originally Posted by s3-Ryu View Post
    I start it with one bar of fan on, driving no more than 20000 revs until temperature needle is at 90. Normally takes about 15 minutes to get there or by the time I've made it on the m4, then drive as normal, albeit with front wheels only. GODDAMN
    DAAAMN you have a high revving engine!



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  12. #11
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    I fire the car up and then move it 10 mtr or so to my gate unlock the gate pull the car through and lock it behind me, Then just drive trying to keep the car off boost. Untill it reachs around 50 degree then drive as normal. all be it without any red line sillyness, Do people think letting the car tick over at the end of your trip is more important than when its warmer outside?
    I probably let the car run for about 5 mins when i get to work before turning it off and locking it up.
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    Mine when starting up makes a really high pitched squeeking and goes as soon as i put my foot on the accelerator, any ideas? it only ever does it when it is cold (very) first thing in the morn!

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3 Paul View Post
    I fire the car up and then move it 10 mtr or so to my gate unlock the gate pull the car through and lock it behind me, Then just drive trying to keep the car off boost. Untill it reachs around 50 degree then drive as normal. all be it without any red line sillyness, Do people think letting the car tick over at the end of your trip is more important than when its warmer outside?
    I probably let the car run for about 5 mins when i get to work before turning it off and locking it up.
    There's nothing wrong with letting it idle for 5 mins at the end of your trip, though it's not neccesary unless you've just parked up after a good thrashing, just to cool the turbo down.



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  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3 Paul View Post
    I fire the car up and then move it 10 mtr or so to my gate unlock the gate pull the car through and lock it behind me, Then just drive trying to keep the car off boost. Untill it reachs around 50 degree then drive as normal. all be it without any red line sillyness, Do people think letting the car tick over at the end of your trip is more important than when its warmer outside?
    I probably let the car run for about 5 mins when i get to work before turning it off and locking it up.
    There's nothing wrong with letting it idle for 5 mins at the end of your trip, though it's not neccesary unless you've just parked up after a good thrashing, just to cool the turbo down.



    99' Audi S3(APY) - Brilliant Black Click>>>Going Sideways vid!
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  16. #15
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    I always let it warm for few minutes, even in the summer, until the rev drops below 1k, this helps everything criculate and lubricate before driving it off, I will not push the rev too hard until it reaches 90C
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dansmith View Post
    Mine when starting up makes a really high pitched squeeking and goes as soon as i put my foot on the accelerator, any ideas? it only ever does it when it is cold (very) first thing in the morn!
    This sounds like a belt slipping slightly. The missis' car does it aswell, but only in the winter on very cold mornings. Goes as soon as you put some load on the engine. You can test to see if this is the case by spraying some wd between where the belt meshes with the pulley. This could either be caused by a stretched belt, needing replacing, or the tensioner pulley is tired (someone correct me if I'm wrong). I tend to just ignore it as it goes before long.

    HTH

  18. #17
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    Theres a thread like this on SCN and someone said that you should start the car up and drive straight away, not let it idle as it doesnt allow oil to circulate properly causing piston damage and engine wear.
    Not too sure how true that is but i let my car idle for 5 mins as it seems to prefer it

  19. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jojo View Post
    It's commonly known that most of the engine wear happens during start up of the car, hence we usually don't rev the rollox out of them when cold, and it obviously warms up quicker on the move than being on idle. Idling for 5 mins to warm up is ok, but to warm it up with normal driving is better for the car in my opinion.




    DAAAMN you have a high revving engine!
    What are you getting at jojo??

  20. #19
    jojo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s3-Ryu View Post
    What are you getting at jojo??
    20k revs typo....



    99' Audi S3(APY) - Brilliant Black Click>>>Going Sideways vid!
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  21. #20
    jojo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s3-Ryu View Post
    What are you getting at jojo??
    20k revs typo....



    99' Audi S3(APY) - Brilliant Black Click>>>Going Sideways vid!
    You've got to have a laugh! For Sale:LCR Brakes - £400



 

 

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