Please Help!!!!

[kitpayne]

hi all. I seem to be having some problems with my S3 and if I can't sort it quickly and cheaply my missus want's rid of it. (we had a ton of problems with my last car)

There are two main factors which i hope are related.

1. mainly when cold but also sometime when warm the car seem to splutter when pulling at low revs?

2. it doesn't seem all that fast. I have done some logs on VAGCOM but not sure if i've done it right. the figures i've equated to, from the excel documents from Ross-tech, are 10.25psi, 154.9bhp, 170.6lbft.


I presume looking at the boost figures that i have a boost leak????

Also when i was doing the logging runs i went up to about 5800 rpm but i only got a few lines of data, 13 on the first and 10 on the second. Is this about right or am i doing something wrong.

Its an APY by the way and the lack of power seems to have got worse over the few weeks we've had it.


Thanks in advance.

 

[1animal1]

id guess no codes are flagging up???

id start with looking around and underneath the piping, then unplug the maf and see how it runs without...... have you changed the coils recently? also do a check on the DV to see if it is holding - this is pure guess work at the minute but where i would start personally

 

[djdougalno1]

id also try an unplug the maf sensor first it should run better when disconected if not uve probly got a small leak somewhere time to get out the fairy liquid

 

[kitpayne]

The DV is only a couple weeks old!!
I unplugged the MAF the other day and it did feel a bit better, although it seemed like it kept wanting to stall??
I haven't touch the coils.
I will check for fault codes in the morning an post them up.
When checking the pipes is it necessary to remove the bumper and i presume you mean the pipes from turbo to inter cooler.


thanks for the fast reply.

 

[1animal1]

na i would take the plastic engine cover off and check everything you can realistically get to....under the inlet manifold, turbo pipe, the twisty pipe to the dv from the 1 way plastic valve.... have to say it sounds worse than a leak though, id have said coils possibly as they are fairly common.... that said you should have a fault code showing on vagcom if thats the case.....do you have any fault codes?

 

[kitpayne]

will plug it into vagcom in the morning and post the results.

 

[kitpayne]

if there is a leak will it show with some fairy liquid even if its on idle?

 

[1animal1]

erm...i would forget about the leak for the minute, it wont do what your describe unless a pipe is virtually in two pieces...and even then id look elsewhere too

 

[kitpayne]

VAGCOM resutls!!! Hope this shed's some light on the situation.

MAF signal too low - new MAF then???


VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N


Chassis Type: 8L - Audi A3/S3
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,22,35,37,45,54,55,56

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8L0 906 018 K
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0003
Coding: 05610
Shop #: WSC 06435
4 Faults Found:
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation
P1340 - 35-00 - -
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

Address 03 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8N0 907 379 C
Component: ABS/EDS 20 IE CAN V003
Coding: 13504
Shop #: WSC 06435
1 Fault Found:
01324 - Control Module for All Wheel Drive (J492)
49-00 - No Communications

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8L 
ö 8L0 8
Component: 8L0820043M
Note: Excessive Comm Errors

Skipping Address 15-Airbags

Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8L0 920 980 B
Component: AB-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D07
Coding: 01444
Shop #: WSC 00000
ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ AUZ7Z0X1171280
No fault code found.

Address 22 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 02D 900 554 B
Component: HALDEX LSC ECC 0006
1 Fault Found:
01312 - Powertrain Data Bus
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent

Address 35 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8L0 862 257 P
Component: CV-Pump, Alarm, RC D13
Coding: 14190
Shop #: WSC 00000
2 Faults Found:
00955 - Key 1
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
49-00 - No Communications

Address 45 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 4B0 951 173
Component: Innenraumueberw. D03
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.

Address 55 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 4B0 907 357
Component: LEUCHTWEITEREGLER D003
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 06435
No fault code found.

Address 56 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 4B0 035 186
Component: Radio 0001
Coding: 00407
Shop #: WSC 00000
2 Faults Found:
00852 - Loudspeaker(s): Front
36-00 - Open Circuit
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
35-00 - -

End -------------------------------------------------------

 

[kitpayne]

On the subject of MAF - i have briefly asked this before - but how bad are the GSF one's. Also what about the GSF coils packs?????

 

[1animal1]

looks like the crank sensor to me initially..... i had the same battery fault and engine speed sensor fault when mine went..... its a small sensor situated above the oil filter...costs about £80 for Audi or you can source a pattern part for £30-40....but make sure it isnt for a golf!! VAG dealer sold me a golf one thinking they were both the same but they weren't!!

 

[1animal1]

I would always buy original MAF's.....and for the coils id spend the extra 3-4 quid on proper ones as these too are a part that cannot be replicated easily

 

[kitpayne]

are the battery fault and engine speed sensor fault problems or just up because of the crank sensor fault. thanks for your help 1animal1!!!! :icon_thumright:

 

[1animal1]

just because of the crank sensor mate.... battery im sure is fine.... although its a case of experience rather than being sure as you know. When mine went there was an outside chance that it could have been the timing sensor which is much harder to change....gladly it wasnt that

mine used to cut out when warmed up too...but there are several symptoms for the crank sensor failing.....

 

[kitpayne]

ok i'm confused now - been reading some old posts about similar issues and some of them say CRANK sensor some say CAMSHAFT - which is it???

any ideas where to get a pattern one from??

 

[1animal1]

i got mine from a mate, will ask when i see him later......

well the crank sensor is the cheapest to fix which is why i did that first..... although a pain to get to, the cam sensor requires the rocker cover off IIRC, you have to be extremely careful not to drop the bolts down the cam cover!!

 

[kitpayne]

ok thanks alot. will try that first then.

 

[wibble111]

Did you clear all the fault codes then re-check them after a drive to make sure they arent old codes?

 

[kitpayne]

yes - i read the codes when i got VAGCOM and cleared them, then plugged it in again the other morning.

 

[1animal1]

if your doing the crank sensor yourself, you'll need to jack the front end up and remove the front skid plate, also you'll need to take off the metal work in front of the inlet mani, remove the oil dip tube - you'll need to work from both under and down the front of the engine, feel ya way around...hardest bit is pulling the sensor from the block once you've removed the single bolt holding it in

 

[kitpayne]

thanks for that. i was planning on doing it myself.

did you manage to find out where you got the sensor from?

 

[kitpayne]

can someone confirm to me if this is the correct part i need?

http://partsjunction.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=120533

 

[1animal1]

yep thats the bit mate....lad who sourced mine wasnt around yesterday to ask...sorry fella

 

[kitpayne]

thats ok. this place seems cheap enough. thanks for all your help 1animal1. cheers

 

[1animal1]

no probs mate, just hope it sorts it

 

[kitpayne]

so do i, so do i

 

[millwrx]

did it fix it??????might be the same fault as mine?????

 

[kitpayne]

bit low on funds at the mo, will be ordering one tomorrow. will let you know.

 

[kitpayne]

Just changed the crank sensor and also the thermostat and temp sender. BUT - the car wont start now. VAGCOM -

16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17645 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30): Open Circuit
P1237 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17647 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32): Open Circuit
P1239 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17648 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33): Open Circuit
P1240 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17646 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31): Open Circuit
P1238 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit
P1426 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open Circuit
P1548 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17841 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Open Circuit
P1433 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Open Circuit
P1432 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Open Circuit
P1287 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000


any ideas??????

 

[kitpayne]

BUMP!!

I really need some help here as i need the car tomorrow!!!! It turns over and sort of starts but is very lumpy then cuts out. I can't think what I could of done to cause this????

 

[S3 Nattie]

Check the fuel rail is connected back up or any sensor you would have unplugged to change the parts above, you may have missed one.

 

[kitpayne]

ok will double check thanks

 

[kitpayne]

Just to let anybody that was interested know, turns out it was the crank sensor. Changed it for the old one and it fired first time. Non genuine parts twas a 1/4 of the price though!!!

 

[kitpayne]

a mate of mine said its unlikely the crank sensor or even the cam sensor is the cause of my poor running. he said that generally the sensors either work or don't work, and the fact the car wouldn't start then did when i put the old back in indicates that the old one is fine. he said that bad crank sensors cause the car not to start, which i never had a problem with. so the fact its a bit hesitant and that its not boosting til 5000 rpm, could this be due to a faulty MAF.


What should i try next???

 

[Welly]

You've got a code for the MAF as I read it yes?

16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

If so then get a new one. Faulty MAFs cause no end of problems, in all sorts of areas. Ultimately the MAF is the only way the ECU can calculate the amount of inbound air flow.

If it is producing a false reading then it will send the engine's fuelling completely down the toilet, and can produce the symptoms that you describe. I have had a dodgy MAF in the past with no fault codes, which made the car down on power.

HOWEVER, you did say that you had unplugged the MAF and driven the car - doing so will produce this fault code. Clear the codes, drive with MAF as normal and rescan to make sure.

But the MAF is a likely culprit.

16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

This may be the cause of your boost leak. This would generally either indicate a faulty N112 valve, or splits in the N112/SAI pipework. This pipework array is located on the rocker cover, down to the underside of the plate by the dipstick, and then to the SAI on the right hand side of the rocker cover.

 

[Matt82]

does the ecu on these engines throw a specific code if the cam timing is out? if not then there is a good chance the crank sensor code is just to say the timing is out

if the crank sensor was dead, we all know the engine wouldnt run at all

 

[9099]

On a side note... Get rid of the missus. The car is too good to let go of!

 

[S3 Nattie]

You've got a code for the MAF as I read it yes?



If so then get a new one. Faulty MAFs cause no end of problems, in all sorts of areas. Ultimately the MAF is the only way the ECU can calculate the amount of inbound air flow.

If it is producing a false reading then it will send the engine's fuelling completely down the toilet, and can produce the symptoms that you describe. I have had a dodgy MAF in the past with no fault codes, which made the car down on power.

HOWEVER, you did say that you had unplugged the MAF and driven the car - doing so will produce this fault code. Clear the codes, drive with MAF as normal and rescan to make sure.

But the MAF is a likely culprit.

That fault code comes up when you have unplugged the sensor, to see if the car runs better without it, doesnt actually mean the sensor is fault.

How does the car run without the sensor plugged in.

 

[kitpayne]

I was bored at home so decide to take the MAF off and have a look, just for something to do. I took the actual sensor off the housing and noticed that it looked like something was missing. It looks like there is a place where a resistor or something should be, or is it suppose to be like that. Have a look...

 

[kitpayne]

Hey all. Was having another look at the car and have realised a few things. It smokes quite badly, this is all the time not just when cold, and it smells of fuel. Also when the oil filler cap is off i can smell combustion gases. I read somewhere this is a sign of head gasket. Also got the white gunk on the oil filler.

Could a head gasket cause it to run badly???