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Thread: Tune my S3

  1. #1
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    Tune my S3

    Ok guys, i have Ł1700 to spend on tuning my std S3, am thinking Milteck and a chip...

    Any ideas and who would you recorrmend, im in hampshire/surrey

    Cheers

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  3. #2
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    Youll have more money if you go custom exhaust, but then much easier to get a pre fabricated one.

    You'll need a forge 007 dump valve, as your stock one will stick alot after the remap. there Ł90. And amd is what i was recommended, as im from hampshire to. they offered around Ł1300 for milltech exaust and custom remap.
    Its gone replaced with a mk2 golf gti 16v :D

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    voorhees's Avatar
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    no chip needed,its all software downloaded to the ecu..remap...also I would spend money on wheels rather than an exhaust

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    erm its milltek btw

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    Suspension first tbh, then a remap... whatever you have left get stuff like exhausts etc...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    Quote Originally Posted by tufftybloke View Post
    Suspension first tbh, then a remap... whatever you have left get stuff like exhausts etc...

    <tuffty/>
    thats a good call but a remap is cheaper and more smiles per pound tufty

  8. #7
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    Fmic, 3 DP and cat and remap and DV.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  9. #8
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    uprate the DV
    anti roll bars
    exhaust system
    remap

    Should be in the region of Ł1500
    2002 Dolphin grey S3 - Sym2+bose, heated leather, ally mirrors, R32 ARB's with superpro, Jabba stage 2 map, TFSI coils, Samco TIP, Forge DV & privacy glass

    2010 Green Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R - Akrapovic baffleless race can, LED cluster & HID's

    wanted for 8L S3:
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    Milltek system

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    And don't forget the DS2500 brake pads on the front to make it stop better from warp factor 9!!

    Cheers,
    Alistair

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  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattyboy199 View Post
    uprate the DV
    anti roll bars
    exhaust system
    remap
    Im doing mine in that order. Trying to find some R32 ARB's for sale, if anyone knows some R32 dudes who have upgraded.
    For sale

    3" Downpipe and de cat (will be going on ebay soon)
    Autogauge boost gauge
    Chrome Audi Number plate surrounds

    PM for info.

  12. #11
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    I'd just get remap and better pads to start with then see which way to go once you've driven it like that for abit.

    You might want better handling at that point or choose more power!
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  13. #12
    Effect's Avatar
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    i would say suspension, remap and DS2500 brake pads, whatever is left over on small mods like forge 007P etc.

  14. #13
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    Generic re-map and sort the brakes.

    Then sort the suspension...that's what will make you quicker A to B.

    Save your money and forget the exhaust if you are keeping the K04 turbo, you will get nothing from changing it, except poor fitting, a squint back box and an annoying knocking - if it's a Milltek.

    Beyond that, FMIC, then start winding up the boost - once you can stop it, and get it to go round corners.


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  15. #14
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    [QUOTE=Ess_Three;806756]
    Save your money and forget the exhaust if you are keeping the K04 turbo, you will get nothing from changing it, except poor fitting, a squint back box and an annoying knocking - if it's a Milltek.
    QUOTE]

    Would you not recommend a Milltek then as Im 50/50 weather to get one or a custom exhaust system
    For sale

    3" Downpipe and de cat (will be going on ebay soon)
    Autogauge boost gauge
    Chrome Audi Number plate surrounds

    PM for info.

  16. #15
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    Nope. Not if you want performance. It sounds good...but mine knocked at the rear for the 3 1/3 years I had the car and always sat squint.
    It added NOTHING to the power, on the Dyno.

    I would put the money into something that WILL give you a gain - remap, better brakes or into the suspension.


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  17. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ess_Three View Post
    Generic re-map and sort the brakes.

    Then sort the suspension...that's what will make you quicker A to B.

    Save your money and forget the exhaust if you are keeping the K04 turbo, you will get nothing from changing it, except poor fitting, a squint back box and an annoying knocking - if it's a Milltek.

    Beyond that, FMIC, then start winding up the boost - once you can stop it, and get it to go round corners.

    What he said. Ł1000 on brakes....Ł450 on revo and Ł250 on whatever else you want.

    2003 Audi S3 + Go faster bits

  18. #17
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    or Ł308 on Custom Code
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  19. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by badger5 View Post
    or Ł308 on Custom Code
    You can probably get a decent brake upgrade from Bill too, while you are there.
    Should leave you with a car that goes and stops well...and a few quid left over to put towards making it go round corners.
    Winner!


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  20. #19
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    pickup those bargain AP's from Martin Hadland on Ebay and match them to some 323x28 LCR sized disks or 330x28 2-piece if that takes ya fancy, and you will get some nice stoppers for good money. some info in tufftys minor mod build thread (ironic title) of what I'm talking about. an option to consider perhaps.
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    Obviously a remap, that goes without saying...

    Personally I'd sort the suspension before the brakes unless your going to be visiting a track regularly...I drive quite hard but for the road there's only so long you'll have a mad moment and for me a large amount of money on brakes wouldn't be justified...

    If you track your car often then brakes for sure...
    revo'd

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    And like another memeber said they couldnt afford to replace the Ł1000+ brake setup, with the same discs and is just now getting normal discs. And like leggy said.
    Its gone replaced with a mk2 golf gti 16v :D

  23. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by leggy View Post
    Obviously a remap, that goes without saying...

    Personally I'd sort the suspension before the brakes unless your going to be visiting a track regularly...I drive quite hard but for the road there's only so long you'll have a mad moment and for me a large amount of money on brakes wouldn't be justified...

    If you track your car often then brakes for sure...
    i would get ds2500 pads up front as a minimum myself.. s3 is a heavy ole bus
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  24. #23
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    i dont think a brake up grade is beneficial with just a remap, with a BT conversation i can understand but my brakes have been fine coping with just a remap, all i m running is standard mintex stuff.
    2002 Dolphin grey S3 - Sym2+bose, heated leather, ally mirrors, R32 ARB's with superpro, Jabba stage 2 map, TFSI coils, Samco TIP, Forge DV & privacy glass

    2010 Green Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R - Akrapovic baffleless race can, LED cluster & HID's

    wanted for 8L S3:
    Unmarked grey rear bumper panel
    Milltek system

  25. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattyboy199 View Post
    i dont think a brake up grade is beneficial with just a remap, with a BT conversation i can understand but my brakes have been fine coping with just a remap, all i m running is standard mintex stuff.
    Why not?
    The weight, and hence mass and momentum of the S3 doesn't change regardless of how much power it has, so you arrive at the braking point for the corner at the same speed, with the same energy to get rid of...only with more power, you accelerate out of it faster.

    Having gone from standard, through 'uprated discs and pads' to proper brakes (4 por Brembos) you'd be surprised just how much quicker an S3 can be point to point when you have better, more progressive brakes.


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  26. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by badger5 View Post
    pickup those bargain AP's from Martin Hadland on Ebay and match them to some 323x28 LCR sized disks or 330x28 2-piece if that takes ya fancy, and you will get some nice stoppers for good money. some info in tufftys minor mod build thread (ironic title) of what I'm talking about. an option to consider perhaps.

    I'd be quick though they seem to have started selling like hot cakes. Got a PM from a member that called Martin and he reckoned he only had a few left!!!

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=250455042455

    The auction suggests there are more but if he has sold some outside of ebay and not updated the auction there may not be that many left. I would give him a call.

    Incidently, Bill has the brackets for these...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  27. #26
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    I concer, when I spoke to Martin, only had three left (now two as I have a set).

    I agree with Ess_three's comments reguarding braking and suspension.

    I have found in my 13 years of driving having good brakes and a well set up suspension wise car will make you quicker point to point regardless of what power you have under the bonnet.

    To give you an example my sisters boyfriend has a 2lt Nova with no brakes or suspension upgrades just engine and gear box and my close friend used to have a Williams with brembos and full suspension upgrades - shock springs, roll bars, geo setup for his style of driving. At brands hatch while at the start the nova was pulling a good lead away having to brake early and take a slightly slower line the Williams caught up, once the Williams passed him and was pressing on the Nova was no where to be seen after about 5 laps and it was fast in a straight line but straight line only (went in it once, never again, not safe at all).

    I agree to a degree that a remap will/is better power v price but if you cant stop the thing adequately and it wollows all over the place when pressing on does not make it an enjoyable drive in my opinion.

    My 50 pence worth.

    Chris.

  28. #27
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    Thanks for all the input guys but.....

    I dont want to sound off with people but what is the problem with the std brake set up, i dont want to give my job details away but i do drive fast cars at very fast speeds for a living and my 50p's worth is that the brakes on my S3 are more than up to the job, i have 15 years of driving and i really dont see them as a problem, shocks and springs i can understand but not the brakes ???

    What are other peoples views on this as im interested ! brakes are very important and play a big part in going quicker but why fix something that is not broken, am i just a lucky one who has ended up with a good set up that works perfect out of a set that as a norm are **** ??? or does my driving skills need looking at and my boss needs to think about getting someone else lol !!!

  29. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eyeball Paul View Post
    Thanks for all the input guys but.....

    I dont want to sound off with people but what is the problem with the std brake set up, i dont want to give my job details away but i do drive fast cars at very fast speeds for a living and my 50p's worth is that the brakes on my S3 are more than up to the job, i have 15 years of driving and i really dont see them as a problem, shocks and springs i can understand but not the brakes ???

    What are other peoples views on this as im interested ! brakes are very important and play a big part in going quicker but why fix something that is not broken, am i just a lucky one who has ended up with a good set up that works perfect out of a set that as a norm are **** ??? or does my driving skills need looking at and my boss needs to think about getting someone else lol !!!
    You can overheat and fade standard S3 stuff in under an hour of hard road driving on challenging roads.
    I managed to overheat the pads and boil the fluid in a matter of months when my S3 was new...heaven knows how bad some of them are now with 8 year old callipers!

    Remove the inner dirt shields to let more air in, change the pads to something better and maybe fit some grooved discs and possibly change the fluid and you can improve them a lot...
    But you can still have them go mushy after a good few hours of playing.

    Fit Brembos - or a similar 4 pot set up - and you'll probably never fade them on the road - I couldn't....but you still can on the track.

    Fit some decent pads to the 4 pots (Ferodo DS2500s for example) and you are unlikely to have brake issues ever again.

    I'm not alone in finding the brakes poor...

    Even assuming they work, they don't offer much feedback...and the modulation isn't great.
    After driving an S3 with a 4 pot set up, you can brake later, harder, better gauge the grip and relax knowing that 'oh sh*t' feeling isn't going to come.

    Horses for courses...


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  30. #29
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    My view is that the standard brake setup is not good after a remap. On the road driving sensibly as one should, they are ok. On a track pushing the car hard, they are dangerous.

    If you dont do track days I would say just get some decent discs/pads and braded hoses. If you will do track days get 4 pots.
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  31. #30
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    Makes me wonder how hard some of you lads drive on the public roads, don't get me wrong I'm no miss daisy but I really can't see the brakes are that bad unless your constantly hard on them like you would be on a track...
    revo'd

  32. #31
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    The fact that I got through 3 sets of tyres (1 x 17" set and 2 x 18" set) and 3 sets of brakes (standard, uprated and Brembos) in 3 1/2 years and 13500 miles should tell you all you need to know.

    Drive it hard...and you need better brakes.


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  33. #32
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    You went through that lot in 13500 miles...ouch

    You did track days though didn't you ?

    If visiting track days on a regular basis then I could see that and I agree brakes and suspension would be a must, if the original poster (sorry can't remember his name) is only going to be using his car on the road as by the sounds of it he already has a real track car then I don't think an uprated break set up is vital...
    revo'd

 

 

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