Remap: Stage 2 vs Stage 1

[MartayMcFly]

I'm after a remap, have been for a while, but all the websites are slightly confusing. If I go straight for a stage 2 upgrade, do I get the power hike of stage 1 plus another ~45bhp, or is it just the same power increase as getting stage 1 with the addition of a better exhaust? I know most places offer stage 2 as a custom done remap to suit upgraded exhaust and intake etc, but does this really offer the same power increase again on top of getting the basic retune from any of the major companies, or is it just a stage 1 power with a new exhaust note?

I'm not sure whether I should go for Revo or CustomCode either, or maybe AmD... there's too many to choose from. If someone can give me a real indication of power and torque after any/either/all of the S3 upgrades to stage 2 compared to stage 1 then I should be able to pick where my money should go.

 

[warren_S5]

Stage 1 (on a small capacity turbo lump) will add somewhere between 30-50bhp depending on how conservatively tuned the car is from factory.

Stage 2 will have pre-requisite standards to achieve before you can get that code. On the 1.8T engine you require the 4 bar fuel pressure regulator upgrade, a cold air intake, aftermarket DV, an exhaust system + DP, and if you can stretch to it an intercooler upgrade (inlet temps raise significantly with stage 2). Stage 2 code is cheap (around £50), its the ancillary mods which cost the money. I went stage 2 on my Leon Cupra R and I reckon it cost £3k in its before the upgrade (as I added a boost gauge / pillar / short-shift / silicone pipes / derestricted charge pipe / uprated mounts / strut brace / multiple intake feeds). All that spend only realised another 20 odd bhp, but the torque figure improved quite a bit, and because I had reduced the cooling I could run more aggressive settings an retain performance for longer.

The KO3 / K04 turbo units won't see past 290 odd BHP on an OEM 1.8T lump from my experience, so stage 3 actually looks more attractive for the spend than stage 2 as for £5k you can see 330bhp+ giving you 60-70bhp more than stage 1. Stage 2 is where you go if you don't want invasive mods like new turbo's (maybe on a newish car).

Any of the established remap companies should offer what you need. Speak to them all, do your research, then takes your pick.

Some photos of my LCR going through the stage 2 process:

Fitting Forge Front Mount Intercooler

Fitting the EIP uprated dogbone mount

Milltek exhaust vs OEM (Cats)

Milltek exhaust vs. OEM (tail)

Exhaust fitted

Battery relocation kit / Samco hoses / DV / Dynatwist induction kit

The 4 bar fuel pressure regulator upgrade

Engine put back together after Stage 2

Set up ready to roll

Rolling road after stage 2

 

[Dani_B19]

Warren what does fitting the 4bar FPR require, do you need VAGCOM to set it up etc? Btw car lloked very nice, shame you got rid of it.

 

[jm-baker]

I was told by Revo and a few of their agents that on the S3 you dont require to 4 Bar FPR as the injectors are within their capacity with stage 2 and dont require the extra pressure.

Backdraft confirmed this as well.

 

[warren_S5]

Warren what does fitting the 4bar FPR require, do you need VAGCOM to set it up etc? Btw car lloked very nice, shame you got rid of it.

Just plug & play part, but in the day I did this (2005), it was recommended as a pre-requisite. Things may have moved on.

I loved that car, but wanted a Haldex platform car to push beyond 300bhp. The chassis was the weak point although it could be improved. I didn't choose to chase that and just went S3 (8P) instead.

 

[Dani_B19]

Was just asking as ive been told that when you fit the 4bar you need vagcom to reajust the fuel gauge that displays how many miles you have left in the tank as when the 4bar's fitted it frows it out.

 

[warren_S5]

Was just asking as ive been told that when you fit the 4bar you need vagcom to reajust the fuel gauge that displays how many miles you have left in the tank as when the 4bar's fitted it frows it out.

I imagine the stage 2 map would resolve this for you. If you fit a 4 bar in isolation (which I don't recommend), then maybe you do.

 

[Ess_Three]

I imagine the stage 2 map would resolve this for you. If you fit a 4 bar in isolation (which I don't recommend), then maybe you do.

If you fit a 4 bar FPR in isolation, you will probably loose power.
I did. Proved it on the dyno.

You need the map to match...or don't bother.

 

[Dani_B19]

Ok so that'll be left alone then.

 

[MartayMcFly]

So stage 1 is straight forward, stage 2 will be best done after some extensive and expensive engine upgrades?

I think I'll stick with doing the suspension first then.

 

[IIIadidasboy]

Warren, can I ask a few questions......

In pic #6, it's labaelled as having the battery relocation kit - and I can see that the battery is missing, however in pic #8 the battery is there and looks to be in the same place - am I missing something here or just being thick?

How did you find the Dynatwist induction kit? - don't suppose you know the before & after AITs? Better to drive afterwards?

Sorry for the Spanish Inquisition!!

 

[warren_S5]

Warren, can I ask a few questions......

In pic #6, it's labaelled as having the battery relocation kit - and I can see that the battery is missing, however in pic #8 the battery is there and looks to be in the same place - am I missing something here or just being thick?

The battery relocation brackets moved the battery towards the engine block about 5cms allowing the easy routing of air intake pipes into the Dynatwist. If you didn't do this 80mm air feed intake pipe wouldn't make it round the battery. A guy called Phil on SEATCUPRA.net fabricated them for us.

How did you find the Dynatwist induction kit? - don't suppose you know the before & after AITs? Better to drive afterwards?

The sound was much better, and once I purchased a BTCC touring car intake scoop it improved a bit, but I wouldn't say it was astonishing. Didn't get round to measuring the airflow so couldn't give you exact figures. I think a hollowed out OEM airbox would have been a close match.

Sorry for the Spanish Inquisition!!

No problem mate, whenever!

 

[IIIadidasboy]

.......The sound was much better, and once I purchased a BTCC touring car intake scoop it improved a bit, but I wouldn't say it was astonishing. Didn't get round to measuring the airflow so couldn't give you exact figures. I think a hollowed out OEM airbox would have been a close match.


No problem mate, whenever!

Thanks Warren - what did you find, a bit more power or that it was more responsive?

Been "tinkering" today - looking at a cold air feed into the box. The engine bay's quite busy at the front with the radiator, headlights and battery etc - I s'pose sometimes you need to "think outside the box" - and move something!!

 

[warren_S5]

Thanks Warren - what did you find, a bit more power or that it was more responsive?

Been "tinkering" today - looking at a cold air feed into the box. The engine bay's quite busy at the front with the radiator, headlights and battery etc - I s'pose sometimes you need to "think outside the box" - and move something!!

Reponsive. Urgency of the pull under acceleration felt sharper, and because I stretched the insulated intake hose very tight to remove restrictions / concertina effect in the pipe it sounded much raspier. I'm prepared to accept it may have been a placebo effect, but every little helps.

 

[IIIadidasboy]

.........but every little helps.