AH Fab / Ebay / Forge S3/A3 FMIC installs (image heavy)

haha np's

cheers for that, im just curious as to what i can get away with, ie would i be able to buy a 180 silicone pipe to go from cooler around the back of the rad....and still miss the fogs....
 
well your a lot of help :)

i think ill have to buy the FMIC (once you guys gimi your sizes) then fit it up and work out what i need so as to reduce the amount of joins
 
1animal1 said:
wasnt that 12" haha
Click to expand...

No no no, it was " My name is Steve Stiffler, and I have an 11 inch penis........ Around...... Think about it".

Followed by the legendary....

"Sherman!" .... blah blah blah.... "You stupid f*ck".

I love that film :)
 
you won't get away with 2 90's around the rad tim, expecially not if you want to keep the fogs. what you'll need is a 45 off the cooler heading back towards the front wheel, then a 90 and a 45 to come around the back of the rad. I'll try and to a Welly style drawing. I think you could be right though, if you're intent on keeping the standard chargepipe and pancake, it'll work out cheaper to buy bits of silicon seperately, some pipe, and a core.
 
yup that does make sense, and the three joints will allow me to play around with the size of the bend too to make it more custom.....

so already thinking, two silicone 60mm 45's off the FMIC, then i need to get the size up to 63mm before i get to the OEM pipes..... sooner the better....

1x 90 60mm
3x 45 60mm
1x length of 60mm pipe (for around the back, would increase to 63mm but would mean another joint for that when i could sort that out at the other end of the length, before the pancake)
 
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What about a twin pass if we're going down the seperates route?

My mate fitted one to his MK4 Golf and it actually works really well, which I was surprised about - cos I thought they were plop. I was wrong.

Anyway, pancake pipe direct to twin pass, cold side out the same side, up and in.

This saves all the arsing about, the cooler cost is the same (ish) and you have to buy a ton less silcone.
 
sounds good.... cheers Welly

will have a look at that when i get home

so run two 45's off the twin pass to clear the bumper then home free?

in theory
 
I posted a link previous post. But there aren't any on there at the moment. The seller is intercooler king. Might be worth sending hi a message and asking if they have any.
 
1animal1 said:
sounds good.... cheers Welly

will have a look at that when i get home

so run two 45's off the twin pass to clear the bumper then home free?

in theory
Click to expand...

Well, that would be my plan.

Al lot of people say that twin pass coolers cause pressure drop due to the 90 degree bend the air has to make. But my mate has really good IATs (due to the air being in the cooler longer), and no pressure loss over a FMIC. So as far as I'm concerned, it's all good.
 
ill keep my mind open to both as might not be able to source one....... i would gather a quality twin pass would be needed where a cheapo inline will offer different benefits.....

right pain in the **** this planning lark!!
 
1animal1 said:
ill keep my mind open to both as might not be able to source one....... i would gather a quality twin pass would be needed where a cheapo inline will offer different benefits.....

right pain in the **** this planning lark!!
Click to expand...

Well, that twin pass link from the bay I posted went for £105. Not exactly the end of the world. Even buying the pipework and MAP pipe, it would be well under £200 - which is the cost of the Turbo Revs jobby.
 
I don't think the twin pass will work personally, there's not enough height available for a twin pass cooler. the bottom hose would be the inlet from the pancake, but the top hose would be inside the crash bar. you could of course get rid of that.....
 
aye...what i meant was that the twin pass would prob require more internal engineering than a normal pass through FMIC....making a cheap twin pass possibly less effective than a normal pass through, as the pass through cooler doesnt require 'as much' thinking to make it work near its peak efficiency
 
1animal1 said:
aye...what i meant was that the twin pass would prob require more internal engineering than a normal pass through FMIC....making a cheap twin pass possibly less effective than a normal pass through, as the pass through cooler doesnt require 'as much' thinking to make it work near its peak efficiency
Click to expand...

Sorry, yeah, with you now. I guess it depends on how smooth the 90 bend inside is really, but good luck finding out....

Prawn - when I fitted mine I actually mounted it to the bottom of the crash bar, os opposed to behind it. So that could be a work around for that. Or, as you said, bin the crash bar - that's a bit naughty though....
 
This is my idea....

iclayout.jpg


The cold side could be done with a few 45's and 90's easily enough too.....
 
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Anyways, the long and short of it is (IMO):

Buy a cooler of this size (Turbo Revs size) 520mm x 180mm x 60mm.

Buy the pipes that you think you will need.

Remove the bumper and eye it all up.

Create the full assembly off of the car so you know it all fits.

Buy any bits extra you need.

THEN fit it.
 
Prawn said:
This is my idea....

iclayout.jpg


The cold side could be done with a few 45's and 90's easily enough too.....
Click to expand...

I like it. BUT - the reason my diagram (having done this) has a big bow around the right hand side of the rad, is that you have to avoid all of the bottom hoses, the rad tap etc, which makes running a bit of straight pipe across the back very hard to do.
 
I'll take photos tomorrow during the day so at least we've got something finite to discuss....!! LOL
 
cheers chaps..... i think one things for certain so far, i can buy the forge item........

JBS just quoted me £15 for a piece of 1m 63mm pipe which isnt terrible....wonder if i could couple the map sensor up to the hot side?
 
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welly are you sure the size from end cap to end cap is 520mm? really struggling finding one on the bay under 540mm
 
oooh you couldnt measure when ya get a spare minute can ya?.... im worried about going bigger cos im gonna struggle with the turborevs kit size as it is...
 
ah the first link is the cooler size not the enitre thing, the 550mm assumes the entire unit
 
it doesn't, that pic shows the standard charge pipe, which already has an N75 take off.

You simply need to recreate the N75 take off in the new pipework, where ever you fancy really, closer to the turbo being better.
 
Prawn said:
it doesn't, that pic shows the standard charge pipe, which already has an N75 take off.

You simply need to recreate the N75 take off in the new pipework, where ever you fancy really, closer to the turbo being better.
Click to expand...

What does it do and what pipe is it, its all new to me, is there any pics so it gives me more of an idea
 
ok ok heres the plans

from the cold side, cut the TB pipe back a little and fit the 60mm forge pipe (cut down) and secure, fit the cooler along with two 63mm 45 degree silicone bends, on the cold side im going to fit a 60 to 63mm reducer onto the forge pipe and run a series of 63mm silicone bends to connect up to the cooler.....

hot side..... run a 63mm 45 off the coolers already fitted 45, then run a 63mm 90 off that...leading onto the 63mm stainless or alu pipe which will then have a 63mm 90 at the end, that will then connect to another piece of pipe which will lead to the pancake pipe (pancake will have a 50 - 63 reducer attached)

sound good? im correct in thinking the pancake is 2"/50mm isnt it?

shopping list

1 x 60mm Forge pipe
1 x 60 - 63mm reducer
1 x 50 - 63mm reducer
4 x 63mm 45 degree bends
3 x 63mm 90 degree bends
1 x 1 metre 63mm alu or stainless pipe
20 x clips (or a different make, what are the cheapies like?)
and a cooler with 2.5"/63mm outlets

only need to confirm the size of the cooler before ordering and find the bits cheap enough as i could mix silicone bends, rubber joiners and bent alu/stainless pipes - doesnt look like im gonna get under £200 :readit:

this look ok chaps?

Tim
 
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sounds perfect to me Tim, the pipe across the block may be at a slight backward angle to clear the rad tap and stuff, and you may need to adjust the length of the short pipe between the 45 and the 90 to get this to sit right, but basically, that sounds good.

Probably get it all fitted up in a day, as you've not got to mess around removing the charge pipe, relocating the DV, and making up a new N75 take off :)
 
cheers fella...appreciate all ya (and Wellies help)..... im looking at £250 so far if i go for a silicone/stainless combo of pipes.....only just noticed the FMIC kits on the bay have rubber joiners which arent ideal are they?

also ideally wanted mikalor clips but may be a tad overkill given the cost difference
 
I found Mikalor clips to be ***** on my FMIC, the band width was almost TOO wide, reducing pressure of clamping (pressure = force/area and all that)

the guys at forge recommended I use JCS Hi-Torq clamps, from siliconhoses.com, which are basically fancy stainless jubilee clips, and they have been amazing for me. Also, the ebay kits are supplied with silicon, but it's 3 ply rather than the more common 4 ply stuff most people use. To be honest it's more than up to the job though.

Check your PM's Tim, I've sent you pics of this downpipe
 
cheers Nick - PM'd back

Well i had a look on siliconhoses.com this morning, they arent bad on price....any tips on cheaper firms for the 90's and 45's, reducers etc.....

Think im gona run solid pipes between the silicone bends where another bend is needed, meaning less joints etcetc....also any firms that are notably cheap for these

hate trying to do all this on a budget :)
 
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