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Thread: AH Fab / Ebay / Forge S3/A3 FMIC installs (image heavy)

  1. #241
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    I concur... someone has done a cheap ass repair on your AC as the condenser is not the right part for a start and looks like an aftermarket fan is being used....

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  3. #242
    It's all in bits

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    Cheers, I thought that might be the response - strange since I got the car no long out of warranty. But I guess that means I should be able to either bodge the fan back into the right place or get an OEM fan and fit that instead. Will have to look into the condenser....

    As ever start to do one thing and find several other things to do instead.

  4. #243
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    You would be better off seeing which bits are missing and sourcing from a scrappy I reckon... That fan is prob not gonna fit and will need to be wired right to suck rather than blow (easy enough to do though)...

    That said you may get away with just either getting a proper fan to fit in the original place and keep the condensor if the AC is working ok but personally I would put it back to how it should be...

    Bad luck mate, hope you get it sorted....

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  5. #244
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    Given what you are saying at least I can remove the fan for now and press on with the FMIC.

    I can see if I can source an OEM fan in the week, and possibly other bits, although AC seems fine, in fact given I have been meaning to get it re gassed for about 6 years it works remarkably well! Is it safe to assume that the A3's use the same arrangement as I am having trouble finding any part numbers?

    Cheers

  6. #245
    1animal1's Avatar
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    how hard would it be to fit one of these as stealthy as possible...... plan was to buy the turborevs kit or a similar cooler and an additional pipe kit...... just dont want that pipe going over the engine like that......

    also any links as to what this 8mm nipple looks like...i have a different visualisation going on in my head and it aint nice!!
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  7. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    how hard would it be to fit one of these as stealthy as possible...... plan was to buy the turborevs kit or a similar cooler and an additional pipe kit...... just dont want that pipe going over the engine like that......

    also any links as to what this 8mm nipple looks like...i have a different visualisation going on in my head and it aint nice!!
    It's easy as dude, I did exactly this.

    You keep the original charge pipe, and the pancake pipe, run to pipework for the cooler along the recess between the block and radiator and connect to the pancake pipe.

    Job done.

    Best thing is to get a length of 2" ally pipe from a local fabricators. That's what I did - then you can use most of the pipes from the kit when it comes out of the box (with a few bits of cutting or course).
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  8. #247
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    Having second thoughts, animal?

  9. #248
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    it's just possible your a legend mate ...is it worth waiting till i have fitted the new catch tank if im working between the block and the radiator......also what did you do regards the N75 and map sensor.....
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  10. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    it's just possible your a legend mate ...is it worth waiting till i have fitted the new catch tank if im working between the block and the radiator......also what did you do regards the N75 and map sensor.....
    Ahhhh, MAP sensor wasn't a problem for me as I fitted it to an AGU (without one). However, I would think that a Forge MAP sensor pipe job would sort you out. You could just stick it wherever fits best with regard to the wires etc. Or extend them to fit where you think is best. It's a play it by ear job.

    I would of thought you would fit the catch tank onto the battery tray area wouldn't you? If so the cooler pipe won't foul I wouldn't think. The pipe runs at about the same height as the bottom of the rad so is quite low down to mate to to pancake pipe.

    N75? You don't need to do anything with the N75 - it's a country mile away from where this will be going. Bear in mind that you will be using the original charge pipe - this has the nipples for both the DV and the N75 so no mods there. I you ran the Turbo Revs kit where it's intended, then you have to change pipework layout for the N75 a bit.

    I can always take a few snaps of mine mate, I've still got it ATM.
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  11. #250
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    just thinking as the catch tank gets rid of some of the pipework beneath the intake mani, but if im working at the level of the bottom of the rad, its not going to matter

    ah got ya i think....my trouble is i havent had a good view of the run yet.....

    So all in all i need the forge map sensor pipe (60mm?)....an a length of 2" pipe (what sort of length?)....and that intercooler kit.....

    and a tin of matt black paint
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  12. #251
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    Welly?
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  13. #252
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    Basicly yes mate, I can see how the turborevs kit could easily be adapted to use the standard charge pipe and pancake setup, but I don't really understand why you'd do that. the pipes at the bumper will still be just as obvious as before, which is surely your main concern isn't it?
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  14. #253
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    yup it is fella.... i was considering buying a similar FMIC then a pipe kit and a piece of straight for the run behind the radiator......

    whats the best way of achieving this? also do i need to buy a silicone pipe for the throttle body.....as not sure the standard pipe will allow me to fit the forge map sensor pipe will it?

    im yet to see whats behind the bumper........
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  15. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    yup it is fella.... i was considering buying a similar FMIC then a pipe kit and a piece of straight for the run behind the radiator......

    whats the best way of achieving this? also do i need to buy a silicone pipe for the throttle body.....as not sure the standard pipe will allow me to fit the forge map sensor pipe will it?

    im yet to see whats behind the bumper........
    Sorry bud!

    I don't have any experience of the MAP setup on the A3, because I didn't have one. I would of though for the extra money that it would be better to just buy the forge jobbie, or something similar really. I believe the standard map sensor lives in the standard intercooler?? Can't be sure though. It think the best shout with the MAP sensor pipe is to play it by ear really.

    I've got a length of 2" ally pipe thats about a metre or so. Thats about the length you need. Best to get more and have to cut it down. You can always reduce, but harder to extend! If you weren't up in Sheffield then you could of gladly had it - well you still can but not sure how cost effective that would be!! I bought 2 lengths of 1 metre - 3 for the 2 from a local fabricator.

    There is plenty of room behind the bumper to run a length of pipe mate, no problemo. It's only 2" after all.
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  16. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    also do i need to buy a silicone pipe for the throttle body
    The Turbo Revs kit goes into the standard TB pipe which is 2.5". Which on reflection means you'll need a 2.5" MAP pipe thing.
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  17. #256
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    cheers Welly.... i think the Forge pipe is only available in 60mm or 63mm which isnt 2.5"

    im gona go on ebay and stick a silly offer in on one of the kits as im eager to get this done for under 200...... might have to be a case of mocking up then seeing what im missing

    and make a trip to the local fabricator, really appreciate ya help on this.....ive done quite a bit of searching but i have the feeling its gonna be the case of taking the bumper off before i see what im faced with.
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  18. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    cheers Welly.... i think the Forge pipe is only available in 60mm or 63mm which isnt 2.5"
    *cough* 63mm is 2.5 inch *cough*

    LOL
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  19. #258
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    haha thats my fault for being a lazy ****
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  20. #259
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  21. #260
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    you dug me those pictures out yet bro
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  22. #261
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    I will have to take some specially for you dude. I will do tomorrow night, or saturday daytime in the light if that's cool?
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  23. #262
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    na thats fine mate if ya dont mind...

    this looks like a good quality kit, has the map sensor part too!! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FMIC-AUDI-A3-1...item2eab7b41be

    doesnt look like theres enough piping to take it the turborevs kit route tho
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  24. #263
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    Dude, that looks spot on!
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  25. #264
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    it does but cant work out how the piping would go......theres no length for doubling back to the pancake, or anough to go over the top..... plus they wont take offers booooo

    thinking its gonna be a turborevs and cut the hell out of the pipes, maybe partially fit and order more pipes if the fogs are still a 'no goer'
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  26. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post

    thinking its gonna be a turborevs and cut the hell out of the pipes, maybe partially fit and order more pipes if the fogs are still a 'no goer'
    That's what I did first time round. Then swapped all the joins out for one piece of pipe. Less chance of leaks that way.
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  27. #266
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    you mean you had a piece fabricated once you had the shape?

    *edit* yup the long piece you mentioned
    Last edited by 1animal1; 11th March 2010 at 23:18.
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  28. #267
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    Na, it's straight!!

    I'll photo it and show you, a picture says a thousand words and all that....
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  29. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Welly View Post
    The Turbo Revs kit goes into the standard TB pipe which is 2.5". Which on reflection means you'll need a 2.5" MAP pipe thing.
    Nooooooooooooooooooo :O

    I hope Tim hasn't bought it yet, I'm 99% confident that the cold side IC pipes and factory TB pipe are 60mm not 63!

    As for location, it can be mounted in the standard place, you just need to cut a bit off the TB hose and use it as a coupler, I also needed to cut the forge map pipe down to about half it's original length to get it in behind the headlight.

    The standard map sensor boss is cast into the plastic end tank of the drivers side SMIC.

    Tim, if it's the external pipes you're wanting to hide, that'll need a fair few more bits of silicon and stuff, but it's definately possible.
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  30. #269
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    Looking on siliconhoses.com, I've devised a plan on how to hide the pipes, which I might actually try on mine to make it more subtle!

    I reckon it'd cost about 60 in silicon bends and reducers to properly hide them, but it's hard to explain how I'd do it.
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  31. #270
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    chaps your both legends.....

    Nick (it is Nick isnt it, im crap with names as you've prob noticed) - my thinking goes along the lines of buying an FMIC similar to the one of the turbo revs kit, then a pipe kit to go with it along with the FOrge pipe..... does this sit along the lines of what you have in mind? - also do i need to change the throttlebody pipe to a silicone one to enable the forge pipe to couple up.....

    Tim
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  32. #271
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    I'm 99% positive that my Turbo Revs cold side pipe was 2.5"..... I will have a look when I get home. The reason I remember was that there were silicone reducer the drop of the hot side of the cooler from 2.5" to 2".

    This is confirmed in the listing for just the pipework (this pipework is the same as the pipework in the kit which you can buy on ebay):

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-VW-GOLF-MK...8#ht_566wt_939


    Also found this kit - which looks to be the same as the Turbo Revs kit: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-MK4-1-...b#ht_929wt_939
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  33. #272
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    Welly (what's your name anyway?), on my turborevs kit I'm definately using a reducer from 63mm-60 on the cold side, although the kits supplied these days have a 60-60 coupler which ahs to be stretched stupidly to get it over the 63mm outlets on the core.

    I'd put really good money on the fact that the cold side pipes are 60mm. I also used a 60mm forge map pipe on the AUM I did for audi1.8Tdan, and it was a tight fit in the TB hose.

    With regards to hiding the pipes Tim, if you were to get the turborevs kit, to hide the pipes you'd need 6x63mm 45 degree bends, 1x 63-50mm 90 degree reducer, and 1x 63-60 90 degree reducer. fit the 45 degre bends onto the core of the cooler, and at the point where the standard pipework from the kit is facing 45 degrees outward towards the road cut it off and fit the 90 degree reducer, which should then point perfectly to the 45 off the cooler. these will need to be joined with a short length of 63mm pipe.

    On the cold side, cut the turborevs pipe where it's facing vertically downards, and twist the 90 degree reducer to face the 45 off the core, and again, join with a short length of 63mm pipework.

    I may try and do this to mine over easter, as I've got a standard bumper I can refit to get my grilles

    If that doesn't make sense tell me and I'll try and draw it somehow!
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  34. #273
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    i think i follow mate....will i need the silicone hose to fit to the throttle body or is the original fine?

    also my plan was to buy a seperate pipe kit and cooler....then make them fit otherwise im gna end up binning most of the turbo revs pipes and it will break the 200 budget ive set for this particular job
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  35. #274
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    what i had in mind based on the first pics in this thread are silicone 45 degree reducers off the cooler, then buy one of those 63mm pipe kits and cut some of the 45's and 90's till i have the shape im after......

    then do the run along the back of the rad to the pancake pipe....

    thoughts?

    also do i need to change the throttle body pipe
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  36. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    Welly (what's your name anyway?)
    LOL, my real name is Alex mate, but my surname is Wellings, and EVERYONE calls me Welly (even the missus). So Welly works just fine for me

    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    I'd put really good money on the fact that the cold side pipes are 60mm. I also used a 60mm forge map pipe on the AUM I did for audi1.8Tdan, and it was a tight fit in the TB hose.
    Maybe we just had different kits then?? Meh. As long as it all goes together in the end, it's all good!

    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    thoughts?
    Sounds good to me.....

    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post

    also do i need to change the throttle body pipe
    I used the OEM one on mine... And all fitted OK.

    Will take photos over the weekend for you duder.
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  37. #276
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    cool cheers mate....although im thinking about the TB pipe as im gonna have to retrofit the Forge map pipe onto it, although from memory its not a rigid jobby is it
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  38. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    cool cheers mate....although im thinking about the TB pipe as im gonna have to retrofit the Forge map pipe onto it, although from memory its not a rigid jobby is it
    Nope, it's reasonably malleable I think. You should be fine, from what Prawn said above, thats how he got it to fit. LOL, I was lucky not having a MAP sensor.
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  39. #278
    1animal1's Avatar
    The Clar!! it mouves!!!

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    hell yeah....its not a huge problem, but it is nevertheless a problem..... im quite looking forward to this....

    dont suppose you have the cooler dimensions do you?

    also on the cold side where im gna have to double back to the pancake.... will i be fine with two 90's leading onto the length of 63mm?
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  40. #279
    Welly's Avatar
    VX220 SC Driver :)

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    This how - in my mind - the intercooler layout we are talking about should be roughly.

    Or an attempt at it using MS Paint at least!:

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    "Marriage is like a coffin and each kid is another nail."
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  41. #280
    Welly's Avatar
    VX220 SC Driver :)

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    Arse. I've just noticed the spelling mistake!

    EDIT: Disregard - I fixed the spelling mistake
    Last edited by Welly; 12th March 2010 at 12:42.
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    "Marriage is like a coffin and each kid is another nail."
    Homer Simpson





 

 

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