Monster MotorsportEM Tuning
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  1. #1
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    MAF readings too low?

    Hello everybody,

    I have Audi a3 1.8t AGU 98', and I got a remap to around 185hp. Yesterday I use VAG-COM to see MAF reading and I found out:

    best till 6000 rpm is 125 g/s
    best till 7000 rpm is 135 g/s

    It's this too low? Should I change MAF, maybe lambda, maybe coils?
    btw I get no faulty codes on VAG, just curious

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  3. #2
    Broken Byzan's Avatar
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    I would look at changing the MAF yes, use a genuine one though, you will have nothing but problems with cheap clones. Your MAF reading ATM is around 170 bhp ish

  4. #3
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    who else is measured MFA reading with a3 1.8t remaped/standard?
    please post here for comparison...

    I also ask one company who do the chip mods and the guy told me that I should get higher readings (150-160g/s). He said that the cause could be: boost leak, maf sensor, weak turbo
    Last edited by goldy1234; 18th June 2009 at 12:33.

  5. #4
    ash_pearce's Avatar
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    I'm fighting a losing battle with an oil leak at the mo, but if i get a chance tonight i'll log my readings.
    A1 Competition line 1.6 tdi

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Byzan A4 View Post
    I would look at changing the MAF yes, use a genuine one though, you will have nothing but problems with cheap clones. Your MAF reading ATM is around 170 bhp ish
    just curious what formula you are using to get bhp figures?
    A1 Competition line 1.6 tdi

  7. #6
    h100vw's Avatar
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    Divide by .8.

    Gavin

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    good work, thanks
    A1 Competition line 1.6 tdi

  9. #8
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    right then, ive just logged a max reading of 131.73 g/s at 6280 rpm, i think yours it too low considering your remap. deff get a new maf, chuffed with mine though 164.6 horses.
    A1 Competition line 1.6 tdi

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    there must be something wrong yes.
    I also go with my friend who got also a3 1.8t stock and the maf readings were around 120 g/s.

    One more question: Should I change complete MAF sensor with housing or just that little piece which is actually only the sensor?

  11. #10
    Essflee's Avatar
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    The whole unit, sensor and housing...
    revo'd

  12. #11
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    its this MAF ok?

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAND-NEW-SKODA-MAF-SENSOR-037906461C-037-906-461-C_W0QQitemZ140307479706QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsP arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item20aafa3c9a&_trk sid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|7 2%3A1683|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

  13. #12
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    dont buy anything but genuine or you will more than likely regret it
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    ^^ I agree with 1animal1 totally. I went through 3 cheapies and they all exibited different characteristics. Whilst probably ok on a non chipped car, stay away and get one form Audi around 70 exchange iirc

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    but this is the right code: 037-906-461-C just like I need? It's fake then anyway?

    Then how should I know that I won't get fake MAF on Audi Servis?

  16. #15
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    The Clar!! it mouves!!!

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    you have to buy from a dealer..... they will swap it for you for around 70-80
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  17. #16
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    what else should I check to feel al my horsepower

    yesterday I have problem, my car just died in the crossroad and I didn't manage to turn it on again. After 1 hour I tried again and it was started normally. The I connect in on vagcom and see error:
    16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal
    P0322 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

    but this probably has nothing with my lack of power?

  18. #17
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    Crank sensor going down too. Might want to replace that, as when it fails the car dies, no limp mode, just dead. It "may " have a bearing on it, but it's more than likely unrelated and co incedence tbh

  19. #18
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    OK I need QUICK OPINION!

    I must buy crank sensor! Should I buy original for 120 eur or fake for 45 eur?

  20. #19
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    Original, several users have reported problems with fakes ones, and problems re occuring very quickly

  21. #20
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    I have problem removing the old sensor! What tool should I use because its very hard to get it out! Shoud I approach from top or bottom of the car?

  22. #21
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    i undid the bolt by putting my arms down through the engine, i then had to approach from underneath to get it out, took ages and had to prize it out with a flat blade screwdriver..... right pain in the A**e

    make sure you buy origianl id say after my experiance
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  23. #22
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    uff I finally managed to get out the sensor... I used tongs and I had to pull realy hard to got it out. The fitting of new one was very easy.

  24. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1animal1 View Post
    you have to buy from a dealer..... they will swap it for you for around 70-80
    Are they obliged to swap it for you? What's the cost of buying the MAF without exchange?

  25. #24
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    just checked one of my logs for reference, 135-140g/s is what i got between 3880-4320rmp.
    98 A3 / 1.8T AGU / K04-001 / GIAC / 4bar FPR / N75J / FMIC / 2.5" Turbo back / GFB DV / Turbo Intake / FK Highsport coilovers / ECS Stage 1 Clutch

  26. #25
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    Hi,
    Did you solved your problem with new MAF? I have exactly the same scenario with my chipped AGU with maf maximum value 138 mg/s.

    Thanks

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    I think that my turbine is not able to deliver so much power anymore. I also checked vag parameter Duty Cycle, but I not sure anymore what was all about it. Can you do the VAG-COM log like I append it? RPM vs Duty Cycle, so I can compare it.

    Duty cycle log:
    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0By8L...it?usp=sharing

 

 

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