EM TuningAH Fabrications
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  1. #1
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    Tiebars mounted low: camber adjustment only, placed at the top; toe adjustment only

    Al from CPT told me...
    (when I enquired info on their tie bars for our cars, imo these tiebars just can't be beat neither on looks nor quality..cheap too)
    ... that if you if you want to adjust BOTH camber and toe to a 100% setting, you had to install adjustable bars at both the upper AND lower position?!

    According to him, if you install them in the lower position you can only correct camber and you install them in the upper position you can only correct toe. Correcting he said, as in adjusting them to a full extent (100% to your liking), not just what is possible f.ex. like me, I wanted -1.00 degree camber 0.00 degrees toe at the rear axle but the mechanic couldn't manage that. He couldn't get closer than 0.04 degrees (camber was -1.00 tho)...

    Is he right?
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
    ______________________________________________
    NO ONE EVER REALLY DIED

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  3. #2
    voorhees's Avatar
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    I'll have a cast iron answer for you after Friday Dennis.
    But adjustable rear ties on upper and lower position is expensive so most people use lower.

  4. #3
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    toe is adjusted by loosening the bolts fixing the swing arm onto the body. I had my toe set as near as damn it 0 deg and camber is -1 deg with my KW's on the bottom...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  5. #4
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by voorhees View Post
    I'll have a cast iron answer for you after Friday Dennis.
    But adjustable rear ties on upper and lower position is expensive so most people use lower.
    Cheers Mate...Well I'm going in tomorrow for my final alignment, so I'll have an answer for you hehe...

    Quote Originally Posted by tufftybloke View Post
    toe is adjusted by loosening the bolts fixing the swing arm onto the body. I had my toe set as near as damn it 0 deg and camber is -1 deg with my KW's on the bottom...

    <tuffty/>
    That's reassuring! Other than I already had my Forge's on the bottom and that was a no no. Camber couldn't be corrected nearly as much as needed. In fact the camber ended at something like -2.00 left side and -2.38 right side...and toe was 0.04.

    Today I swopped the bars to the upper position and are now now booked in for the final alignment. Really REALLY hope they sort it out...

    Thanks guys!
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
    ______________________________________________
    NO ONE EVER REALLY DIED

  6. #5
    voorhees's Avatar
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    I have got mine on the bottom as the top tie bar has a bolt for the subframe in the way of taking a bolt out (didn't want to mess with the subframe),I have had to get the locking nuts machined as the forge bar is the same size as the original one when its down to its minimum.

  7. #6
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by voorhees View Post
    I have got mine on the bottom as the top tie bar has a bolt for the subframe in the way of taking a bolt out (didn't want to mess with the subframe),I have had to get the locking nuts machined as the forge bar is the same size as the original one when its down to its minimum.
    I just removed the bolts for the subframe one by one when I swopped the position for the tie bars. The subframe didn't move a fraction of a mill during that. I don't understand what your saying about the machining of the locking bolts, please explain...

    Cheers
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
    ______________________________________________
    NO ONE EVER REALLY DIED

  8. #7
    voorhees's Avatar
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    maybe I was being too nervous about the subframe bolts but I just didn't fancy taking any at all out,have you put threadlock on when you put them back ?

    heres one of my nuts after machining by the original so they can go on the lower position and give me the geometry I need,if it goes tits up then I'll get some more M18 1/2mm pitch nuts simples

 

 

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