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  1. #1
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    S3: Forge tie bars won't allow adequate adjustment...HELP!!

    I went in today for a full alignment and did get the car corrected a fair bit. See the Suspension setup sticky for further values! But then it all stopped when the shop tried to adjust the rear camber. They couldn't correct it to more then roughly -2.00 degrees. I was really surprised because I had the Forge adjustable tie bars fitted (replaced the lower OEM tie bars) so I expected them to correct it to -1.00 degrees at both rear wheels. There was just no way.

    What should I do now? Is it wise or even realistic to swop the adjustable bars which are now replacing the lower arms to the upper position. And then adjust the wheel outwards at the top...

    Help...Trackday on saturday/sunday is heavily jeppardized!!

    Any help mucho appreciato...
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
    ______________________________________________
    NO ONE EVER REALLY DIED

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  3. #2
    DPM
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    Just put the standard ones back on the bottom and use the Forge ones to replace the top standard arms.

    Damian @ DPM
    DPM Performance
    The premier online suspension and performance specialists
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  4. #3
    s3_kev's Avatar
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    i found this when adjusting my rear camber with the forge arms however for me it wasnt such a problem as i only wanted -2degrees anyway, i think you could get a bit more adjustment if you were to remove the squash washers but its bad that there is not enough adjustment on the adjustable arm to get them to 0 or even 0.5 degrees

  5. #4
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DPM View Post
    Just put the standard ones back on the bottom and use the Forge ones to replace the top standard arms.

    Damian @ DPM
    Cheers! I will do so...

    Quote Originally Posted by s3_kev View Post
    i found this when adjusting my rear camber with the forge arms however for me it wasnt such a problem as i only wanted -2degrees anyway, i think you could get a bit more adjustment if you were to remove the squash washers but its bad that there is not enough adjustment on the adjustable arm to get them to 0 or even 0.5 degrees
    Yeah it's funny too, that you sell something that doesn't do the job properly unless it's mounted at the top and that you don't inform buyers...??

    Well well, good that we have AS.net...

    Cheers guys...
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
    ______________________________________________
    NO ONE EVER REALLY DIED

  6. #5
    s3ollie's Avatar
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    This is strange because i had problem with my toe (on the car ) when i had my bars on the top and had to put them on the bottom to get it sorted
    8P S3

  7. #6
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s3ollie View Post
    This is strange because i had problem with my toe (on the car ) when i had my bars on the top and had to put them on the bottom to get it sorted
    Hmm, were they Forge Bars and what camber did you achieve by putting them at bottom? How was the Toe when they were installed at the top?
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
    ______________________________________________
    NO ONE EVER REALLY DIED

  8. #7
    s3ollie's Avatar
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    with them on the top the camber was OK but couldn't get the toe less than about + 3 degrees each side. now on the bottom all is fine got it set to parallel and .5 camber i think
    8P S3

  9. #8
    Ess_Three's Avatar
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    I seem to think mine were on the top...toe came in fine and plenty of camber adjustment.
    It's strange that it varies from car to car.


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  10. #9
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ess_Three View Post
    I seem to think mine were on the top...toe came in fine and plenty of camber adjustment.
    It's strange that it varies from car to car.
    Yea it's very strange...Let's hope it all works out.

    Cheers mate..
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
    ______________________________________________
    NO ONE EVER REALLY DIED

  11. #10
    Forge's Avatar
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    In 5 -6 years of supplying these this is the first reported problem ,not sure why you have an issue , any problems the Forge dealer should be able to help

  12. #11
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forge View Post
    In 5 -6 years of supplying these this is the first reported problem ,not sure why you have an issue , any problems the Forge dealer should be able to help
    Well today I had the alignment done (once more) after I'd switched the tie bars to the upper position. It all came in just sweet. Now camber are perfect on each corner. Toe couldn't be corrected to what I wanted but it was pretty close. I'm satisfied ;-)
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
    ______________________________________________
    NO ONE EVER REALLY DIED

  13. #12
    clcollins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forge View Post
    In 5 -6 years of supplying these this is the first reported problem ,not sure why you have an issue , any problems the Forge dealer should be able to help
    What is the offical line with adjustable tie bars, are they to be fitted to the top or the bottom?
    Audi A3 1.9TDI Sport Quattro

  14. #13
    voorhees's Avatar
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    I had to modify the locking nuts to get them on the bottom so I'd say top also you will have to undo one subframe bolt to get bolts off/on
    this all boils down to if you have to pull the camber in at the bottom of course.

  15. #14
    RAPS3's Avatar
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    I had them fitted to my 8L S3 and they were also fitted to the top. No issues got them to the correct camber (as per Essthree's sticky).

    I did also have to search the forums to find where to actually fit them too, top or bottom.

    I actually fitted them more for the astetics than the performance, as the 'look' of the cambered in wheel when lowered just didn't do it for me. For me the performance advantage was just an added bonus.
    Paul R

    S3 Sportback - Sprint, Buckets, Bose, Rain & light, Alu rails, Piano trim, FT Warning, Bluetooth prep
    S3's now sold - roll on the Golf MK1 Project

  16. #15
    clcollins's Avatar
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    Bump Forge bump
    Audi A3 1.9TDI Sport Quattro

  17. #16
    Forge's Avatar
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    On the TT,S3, LCR we find that the replacement of the top tie bars only is normally satisfactory to correct lowering of 25-35mm. If the car has been lowered significantly more it may be necessary to replace the lower bars also, but we have only seen this requirement on racing rather than road going cars. The reason we recommend changing the upper tie bars on road going cars rather than the lower bars, is because the level sensors are normally fitted to the lower bars and few installers have the facility for re-calibration.

    Please remember that an accurate geometry alignment will be required after the installation of this product to achieve the best possible results.

  18. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forge View Post
    On the TT,S3, LCR we find that the replacement of the top tie bars only is normally satisfactory to correct lowering of 25-35mm. If the car has been lowered significantly more it may be necessary to replace the lower bars also, but we have only seen this requirement on racing rather than road going cars. The reason we recommend changing the upper tie bars on road going cars rather than the lower bars, is because the level sensors are normally fitted to the lower bars and few installers have the facility for re-calibration.

    Please remember that an accurate geometry alignment will be required after the installation of this product to achieve the best possible results.

    LCR......? Do they use these bars? I thought these were just for the 4wd ones?

  19. #18
    jimbobery's Avatar
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    LCR can be 4wd in spain and other places in europe. They are called Cupra4:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SEAT_Le%C3%B3n

  20. #19
    Forge's Avatar
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    simch

    you are correct .....they will not fit LCR ....... 4wd only ,my apologies ...they will of course fit R32

 

 

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