Does anybody know how much engine oil i should be putting back in my 1.8T non quattro, i've just drained the engine and I can't find any info anywhere.
Cheers
Chris
Cheers
Chris
Oil Change
- Thread starter cclarke184
- Start date
You'll probably need at least 2x 4l pots although you won't use all of it. Put in 4l then check the level as you top it up from there. Once you reach the right level, let it sit for a while before checking again - top up if necessary. You should check it agai after the first run and top up as needed.
Just to confirm i put 4 litres in gave it test drive and then left it over night, i have then checked it this morning and it it spot on in the center of the dipstick.
thanks
Chris
thanks
Chris
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Remove the lower engine sound insulation tray, from under the car for better access (only four screws.)
Filter is dead easy. There are many different type of tool to use.
The one I prefer that gets a really good grip on them is the type that uses a bike chain attached to a socket. You can get this type in most car shops, halfords etc.
Unscrew using the tool unti-clockwise. Be ready to lose some oil out of the filter. (some people put a plastic bag round it to minimise spillage).
Clean all around the area and mating surface.
Smear new oil around the top of the rubber seal on the new filter and fit to the engine. Screw it up HAND TIGHT (basically nice and tight not using any tools).
Some people fill the filter with some oil, but you don't have to.
Refill the engine with oil.
Start the engine.
MOST IMPORTANT!! When you start the engine after a filter change on a turboed car, let it idle until the oil light goes out. Under no circumstances rev it, as this can damage the turbo's bearings. It can take a few seconds for the pressure to build up and the light go out. This is normal.
Nice and easy
Filter is dead easy. There are many different type of tool to use.
The one I prefer that gets a really good grip on them is the type that uses a bike chain attached to a socket. You can get this type in most car shops, halfords etc.
Unscrew using the tool unti-clockwise. Be ready to lose some oil out of the filter. (some people put a plastic bag round it to minimise spillage).
Clean all around the area and mating surface.
Smear new oil around the top of the rubber seal on the new filter and fit to the engine. Screw it up HAND TIGHT (basically nice and tight not using any tools).
Some people fill the filter with some oil, but you don't have to.
Refill the engine with oil.
Start the engine.
MOST IMPORTANT!! When you start the engine after a filter change on a turboed car, let it idle until the oil light goes out. Under no circumstances rev it, as this can damage the turbo's bearings. It can take a few seconds for the pressure to build up and the light go out. This is normal.
Nice and easy
I changed the filter from under the bonnet. its actually easier than doing it from underneath i found. I would like to invest in an oil suction pump sometime... basically you stick a hose down the dip stick hole, suck all the old oil out the sump, then refill it. Could do an oil change in 10 minutes! No need to jack the car up or anything. Good idea i reckon!
Rich
Rich
hmm my plug looks uninterfered with, i assue the dealers use this suction method? - any chance that helford supply it?
this job is not easy.
Oil change fine - oil filter defo not easy.
The chain and socket tool is a pain in the a55. In the end I ditched the filter change.
And thank gawd for power jet washes, split oil everywhere.
Oil change fine - oil filter defo not easy.
The chain and socket tool is a pain in the a55. In the end I ditched the filter change.
And thank gawd for power jet washes, split oil everywhere.
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Thats bad news. The filter should come off real easy. I've never had a prob with tham.
When was it last changed?? It sounds like the person who last changed it didn't oil the seal before fitting, or simply did it up too tight.
When you say "ditched" the filter, do you mean you didn't change it? It is important that you do change it.
Maybe you could try a different type of tool, but my usual "last resort" trick is to stab a screw driver through it, and lever it off that way. But if you don't want to do that, just take it to any local garage and get them to losen the filter so you can get it off for beer money. Take the new one, just in case they use the screw driver method!
Agreed about the mess tho.
When was it last changed?? It sounds like the person who last changed it didn't oil the seal before fitting, or simply did it up too tight.
When you say "ditched" the filter, do you mean you didn't change it? It is important that you do change it.
Maybe you could try a different type of tool, but my usual "last resort" trick is to stab a screw driver through it, and lever it off that way. But if you don't want to do that, just take it to any local garage and get them to losen the filter so you can get it off for beer money. Take the new one, just in case they use the screw driver method!
Agreed about the mess tho.
well filled her back up with oil now - so I am asssuming removing the filter would be very messy? Or can you still change filter with a full tank of oil?
Anyways the oil & filter were changed 6-7000 miles ago so I am not stressing too much.
The real problem was the lack of space - from underneath your hampered by a rubber pipe (water feed). Plus it didn't help That the filter wrench uses a 1/2 inch wrench.. There was just no room without using extensions and stuff..
Anyways the oil & filter were changed 6-7000 miles ago so I am not stressing too much.
The real problem was the lack of space - from underneath your hampered by a rubber pipe (water feed). Plus it didn't help That the filter wrench uses a 1/2 inch wrench.. There was just no room without using extensions and stuff..
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Yeah, keep forgetting that the s3 has more stuff in that area.
You can change the filter with the oil in. It all sits in the sump if you think about it.
Up to you tho.
You can change the filter with the oil in. It all sits in the sump if you think about it.
Up to you tho.
