JMB RetrofitsVolks Autos
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  1. #1
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    S3: Front driver seat will only go up - not down?

    Hello...new problem with my S3! Really hope you can help me (again..)?!

    All of a sudden the front driver seat (Recaro S3) will not lower itself when I want to adjust it. It will only go up?? Beeing a total idiot today I tried to raise it all the way up. Now I have my head banging the roof driving around looking 8" feet tall...

    The motor don't make any unnormal sounds, the the seat was fine yesterday and the fuses are OK...

    Anyone with a similar annoying problem who has an idea what's wrong with the seat...
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

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  3. #2
    alijames's Avatar
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    It will be the lower limit switch has either come off it's mounting, or the switch has failed, so the control always thinks the seat is at the lowest point.

    Happened to mine and the switch had fallen off and got squashed...

    Cheers,
    Alistair

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  4. #3
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    Wow fast reply (again..)! Thanks Mate...

    So how did you fix it, did you replace the switch? By switch do you mean the little horizontal handle or the switch inside the seat?
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
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  5. #4
    alijames's Avatar
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    Just happened to check new posts at the right time...

    I replaced the switch with a similar one.

    Not the one you press, it's the limit switch which is located under the seat on the metal framework, or should be unless it's fallen off!!!

    Probably have to remove the seat to investigate. Don't switch on the ignition while airbag is unplugged though, or you will need vagcom to reset!!!

    Cheers,
    Alistair

    "Why don't you listen to something really classical, like Mozart, Mendelssohn or Motorhead?"
    Arnold Rimmer, 1988

    Commuting & Weekend Fun:
    Yamaha YZF-1000R Thunder Ace in Blue/Black

    Practical Alternative (Still fun though!!):
    S3 2002/51 AMK Silver, Symphony II + Bose + xCarLink + AndyMac Stealth Sub, Metallic Mirrors, Heated Black Leather, Cruise control.

  6. #5
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    Ok. I will have a go at it tomorrow

    Thanks a lot, you probably saved me a bucket of norwegian kroners!!
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
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    NO ONE EVER REALLY DIED

  7. #6
    NHN
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    Take seat out fella & stick on a blanket on its side & you possibly might need to remove the trim on the side where the controls are, it kinda curves into the side of the seat at an angle & then goes flat when fixing in place so I would lift trim up & curve towards the ceiling as such & should pop out to see the frame mechanism, there are 2 sensors as already explained, there just mircoswitches one at top & one bottom that basically the mechanism when at certain height etc makes the metal bracket close against the microswitches & shuts of the power to that circuit & if its broken then you could temp do a wiring job so it allows the power circuit to lower it until new switch got from audi, or if its come out of place just refix it back in the location & try lowering again, its fairly obvious when you can see the setup fella & you seem to be handy with technical things so cant see you having problem with

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  8. #7
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    Job done, seat working properly again. Yes it was the microswitch that had seized up. Removed the very small blue rubber "gasket" on the switch so it could move freely again...and it worked!!!

    Thanks mates!!!!!!!!!
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
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  9. #8
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    Finally got round to having a look at my passenger side recaro which won't go up. Having got the seat out of the car it's the microswitch which is sticking in - i.e. preventing power getting to the motor to raise the seat. I've tried a bit of WD40 but it's still sticking.

    So my question is, can you just get the microswitch as I'm happy to solder another one on? If so, would it be an Audi part or am I better off in Maplins?
    Jason
    2001 Nogaro S3 (daily driver)

    1958 replica Porsche 356 Speedster (summer posing)
    1997 Seat Cordoba SX 16v (track day toy) replacing (t)rusty 1994 Seat Ibiza GTi RIP

  10. #9
    NHN
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    I would remove switch & probably just needs modding or fixing to work again, they dont often go wrong as they're so basic on design, not much can go wrong.

    OEM RETROFITS - CRUISE CONTROL - SAT NAV - BLUETOOTH - AMI - HEADLIGHT SYSTEMS

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  11. #10
    jcs356's Avatar
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    I've removed the switch, and it works fine if pressed hard and fully into the housing.

    Problem is that the mechanism on the seat doesn't give it a sudden push all the way in, due to the speed at which the seat moves. Hence the contact breaks before the toggle is fully depressed, and in that case, it sticks and won't ping open again.
    Last edited by jcs356; 8th August 2011 at 18:12.
    Jason
    2001 Nogaro S3 (daily driver)

    1958 replica Porsche 356 Speedster (summer posing)
    1997 Seat Cordoba SX 16v (track day toy) replacing (t)rusty 1994 Seat Ibiza GTi RIP

  12. #11
    NHN
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    So take the microswitch apart & fix it so it doesnt need a hard flat push to operate, probably something has become worn down etc.

    OEM RETROFITS - CRUISE CONTROL - SAT NAV - BLUETOOTH - AMI - HEADLIGHT SYSTEMS

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  13. #12
    jcs356's Avatar
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    Thanks - there isn't an obvious way to take the switch apart.

    Have reassembled with it moving as best it can, put the seat back in the car and it still won't go up - grrr. Still goes down fine, just not up. Think I'll bypass the switch (assume it is push to break the circuit) and see if that works. It's a pain that you can only test it all with it back in the car. Boy are the seats heavy - circa 35kg according to another post!
    Jason
    2001 Nogaro S3 (daily driver)

    1958 replica Porsche 356 Speedster (summer posing)
    1997 Seat Cordoba SX 16v (track day toy) replacing (t)rusty 1994 Seat Ibiza GTi RIP

  14. #13
    jcs356's Avatar
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    Update on this one - you can get the microswitches as spares. Got one ordered from Colbornes so fingers crossed can get this all fixed. Unfortunately it means taking the seat out and to bits again....
    Jason
    2001 Nogaro S3 (daily driver)

    1958 replica Porsche 356 Speedster (summer posing)
    1997 Seat Cordoba SX 16v (track day toy) replacing (t)rusty 1994 Seat Ibiza GTi RIP

  15. #14
    Maz
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    Good luck, let us know how you get on, I have the same problem with my passenger seat as well.


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  16. #15
    dubber dude's Avatar
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    sorry to off topic !! whilst on the seat topic, i have posted with a problem with my seats !! i aint got no power to them, ive tried looking for the seat fuse but there aint one, just for the heating, any idea where the power comes from ???

  17. #16
    NHN
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    There will always be a fuse, just check your manual as it could share a fuse or be under hood.

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  18. #17
    dubber dude's Avatar
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    according to where the fuse is in the manual the slot is empty !! the fuses in the engine compartment are ok !! was advised to check for a relay behind the fuse compartment i can see them but cant get to them, ive run a wire direct from the battery to the seats and the both work perfect...well puzzled

  19. #18
    jcs356's Avatar
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    Microswitch part number is 4BO 959 985, retail at the moment is £17.24 + vat. Ouch.

    I bet you could get an equivalent in Maplin for 50p - but it's knowing what sort of switch it is (push to make, push to brake). It also has 3 terminals? Anyway, will be having a go at swapping this over later in the week when the weather is a bit more predictable.
    Jason
    2001 Nogaro S3 (daily driver)

    1958 replica Porsche 356 Speedster (summer posing)
    1997 Seat Cordoba SX 16v (track day toy) replacing (t)rusty 1994 Seat Ibiza GTi RIP

  20. #19
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    had the same problem two years ago but like a muppet I booked it into a main dealer Audi Maidstone they told me half a day and £180 for new motor switch + labour, I had a warranty on my car so when I picked my car up from them 5 days later they gave me a bill for £500.00. well what a bummer not only did they need the car for five days they did not inform my warranty company they were going to start work I told them they must telephone them before the work started to get an authority number so my warranty was void, THEY ARE STEALERS every person I speak to slag the main dealers now I know why.

  21. #20
    jcs356's Avatar
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    Right, update from me. Despite the £20 cost of the switch, it's worked. Seat now goes up as well as down.

    Big thanks to everyone who helped - can't remember who posted the link to the A3 interior dealer manual but that's invaluable for getting to the innards of the seat. Biggest problem is working out where some of the drawings are looking at - they take some figuring out!

    But job all done in 2 hours. Would have been a lot quicker if the plastic lugs hadn't snapped on the old switch meaning I had to take the base cushion, side panel off and slacken the sub-frame.
    Jason
    2001 Nogaro S3 (daily driver)

    1958 replica Porsche 356 Speedster (summer posing)
    1997 Seat Cordoba SX 16v (track day toy) replacing (t)rusty 1994 Seat Ibiza GTi RIP

  22. #21
    jojo's Avatar
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    Did you take any pics by any chance Jase, or is it pretty straight forward?



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  23. #22
    jcs356's Avatar
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    Unfortunately not Joe. As I was putting it together again I thought - I should really have taken some piccies of this - doh...

    However if you've got the Audi interior pdf manual (and can figure out the drawings) then it all makes sense.

    In summary -
    remove seat from car
    remove panel that fills the space between cushion & backrest on back of seat
    remove panel around the tilt lever sill side
    Undo the 3 screws to the side panel (the one containing the switches - also sill side). This won't allow you to remove the side panel as it is still held on a single mount point, but will give you some slack to investigate further.

    Then depending upon which microswitch has failed, you maybe able to get access. I couldn't, so
    Removed 2 of the allen screws and slackened off the remaining two to allow me to move the sub-frame partly out of the way to get better access to the base of the seat
    Took the thigh extension piece out, and the metal springs and the rubber bungs. That's the clever bit, as the rubber bungs also hold the front of the seat base cushion in place.
    With rubber bungs out, you can then lift the front of the cushion out of the way.
    This then gives you room to move the side panel with the switches in up and away from the seat (i.e. to release the mount point mentioned earlier). You can then see the upper limit switch quite easily.
    Quick play with the soldering iron and it's all done.
    Jason
    2001 Nogaro S3 (daily driver)

    1958 replica Porsche 356 Speedster (summer posing)
    1997 Seat Cordoba SX 16v (track day toy) replacing (t)rusty 1994 Seat Ibiza GTi RIP

 

 

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