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  1. #1
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    code 49, temperature difference ??

    hi all

    little prob with my a3 1.8t

    Just changed my thermostat and temp sender, all seemed fine untill i checked the aircon 49 trick. while reading a steady 90 on the dash the aircon reads anywhere between 98 - 103 oc. The fans kick in as normal and car runs fine just troubled by the high reading

    the water pump was changed last year with the cam belt


    any ideas

    cheers

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  3. #2
    leshkin's Avatar
    Speeding in reverse gear

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    You don't have anything to worry about mate... The dash will always stay on 90 unless the car is cold (stay's on the left) or overheating, in which case it will shoot up to 110-120 and then you are in trouble.

    The code 49 trick basically gives you the actual reading from the temp sensors in the car and is the actual temperature. Anything bellow 105 is normal operating temp if I'm not mistaken... above 102, both fans should kick in and it should drop nicely if everything is in tip-top condition.

    Give Morgan or Wak from VagCheck a shout on here and they can answer any question's you might have.

  4. #3
    Wak-VAGCHECK's Avatar
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    Can you tell us if the water pump was an oem pump or aftermarket.

    if the thermostat is good it could be
    1. failing pump or aftermarket metal pump
    2. It could be a temp sender misbehaving
    3. It could be youre unlucky and the thermostat is faulty, it not unheard of.

    We'd try to verify the potential cause with data logging and validation of the coolant temperature with an external probe.

  5. #4
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    so you think my reading are too high?


    the pump is a aftermarket metal one fitted anly a few thousand miles ago

    the thermostat is not genuine a cheap one i got from a parts shop. i tested it seemed to open just before boiling

  6. #5
    Wak-VAGCHECK's Avatar
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    I would say the 98 is a little bit high considering the proximity to 100 which is usually the threshold when the temps will rise on the dash board.

    I'd expect that you see the temps rise far more often that you used to specially when at the end of a journey and parking or taking a bit of time in a car park where as it was 90 on the dash before.

    There are some parts where its not worth going aftermarket to save costs as soon as you are not using a known part with known behavior then you expose yourself to situations like this where behaviour has to be guessed.

    my own experience was similar to yours on my first change with an after market pump
    see here
    http://www.wak-tt.com/amdtbelt/amdtbelt.htm

    I'm on a original oem pump now as I made AmD change it and the car has been great.

    now 1 little known fact is that AUDI OEM pumps are metal and have been for around 2 years so there is no reason to go aftermarket, they also have known behaviour and work as expected.... you shoudl average 90 degrees on a 1.8t.

    We also replaced a cambelt and w.pump for a TT owner a few weeks ago with exactly the same issues and he is running much better temps now.
    the Pump didnt even make a good seal and had been bodged with silicon sealent only 10k miles previously.

    Without verification that all else is well we cant be certain, but I would advise strongly against any aftermarket metal pump now that Audi pumps are metal and work to a known specification and flow rate.
    Last edited by Wak-VAGCHECK; 1st November 2008 at 17:21.

  7. #6
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    after a long drive just checked and noticed the bottom rad hose is much cloder than all the rest

  8. #7
    Clach's Avatar
    A3 - 1.8Ts

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    still worrying about this I see...
    Turbo Sport, Auto (I know!), A lot of 's -and rising [latest add: Recon'd. tranny] sunk in her since Aug. 07...

  9. #8
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    yeah its getting a bit anoying realy

  10. #9
    Wak-VAGCHECK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alistair666 View Post
    after a long drive just checked and noticed the bottom rad hose is much cloder than all the rest
    sounds like the thermostat , was the system bled properly after the thermostat.

  11. #10
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    i had it bled as i had an airlock when i replaced the thermostat myself. But recently i removed the expansion cap while the engine was hot it bubbled and overflowed, could have possibly airlocked it again.


    how do you blead it properly?

  12. #11
    cornish_a3_turbo
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    hi mate. mine goes the other way, mygauge is always down low, ie 68-75 ish.
    i changed my tmp sender switch not long ago, and that is when the car has been acting like this.
    and can some 1 tell me how to do the air con trick?!?
    please!
    thanks!!

  13. #12
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    on the aircon display press recirculate and up arrow button which brings up the code list on the left screen. now select 49 by pressing the up and down arrows on the heater temp controle then recirculat button again

  14. #13
    cornish_a3_turbo
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    o ryt ill try that tmoz, is there any more cheats tips n tricks?? im new to the audi game!
    cheers!!

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    anyone have any ideas about the cold rad hose?

  16. #15
    leshkin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alistair666 View Post
    anyone have any ideas about the cold rad hose?
    I would check your thermostat as Wak-VAGCHECK had suggested

  17. #16
    HTC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wak-VAGCHECK View Post
    1 little known fact is that AUDI OEM pumps are metal and have been for around 2 years so there is no reason to go aftermarket, they also have known behaviour and work as expected.... you shoudl average 90 degrees on a 1.8t.
    Without verification that all else is well we cant be certain, but I would advise strongly against any aftermarket metal pump now that Audi pumps are metal and work to a known specification and flow rate.
    Need more information on this. Have you access to flow rate tests? I'm dubious about this statement. On the face, sounds like dealer talk wanting them to buy their product.

  18. #17
    Wak-VAGCHECK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HTC View Post
    Need more information on this. Have you access to flow rate tests? I'm dubious about this statement. On the face, sounds like dealer talk wanting them to buy their product.
    no flow rate tests.... simple living in the real world experience.
    1. Understanding my car and know its behaviour
    2. Seeing the change after work done, admittedly forcing the issue for a change back to an oem product.
    3. Getting my old car behaviour back

    How do we know the new oem metal ones are any good?

    Data logging diagnostics is our background and now having seen the results of the oem pump on at least 30-40 cambelt jobs.

    And even recently helping a TT owner with the same issue recover his cars behaviour by changing an aftermarket pump back to oem.
    Dealer Talk!! our business is based around offering an understanding and professional service to customers and offering the best advice we can from the real world experience I mentioned above.

    If not from personal experience well give you the best objective opinion we can from research and good judgement or not give an opinion at all if we cant be conclusive.

    When a car comes in with problems and is running a cheap quality EBay Maf, coil packs clones from China, temp senders/thermostats from Mexico and Metal water pumps with different flow characteristics..... which one of those components can you trust to operate to the oem spec?

    None of them are known entities, hence any diagnostics can take much longer to help a customer.

    The advice above is given in good faith based on the descriptions given and without hands on review its only here to give some options to consider one of which being the pump.

    Whilst its the one we all least want to hear by nature of the cost to replace you at least have now got 2 examples (me and one of our customers) to bare in mind after reviewing any of the other possibilities.

    However as the lower hose staying cold has been mentioned then the thermostat should be reviewed first as thats what was changed last and presumably made this difference.

 

 

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