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Thread: S3 Suspension and Set-up Guide

  1. #41
    Ess_Three's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s3ollie View Post
    Now:

    Front left Camber: -1.02
    Front right Camber: -0.58

    Although its better its now its still not IMO close to equal . id be wanting it spot on if i was paying 330 for the privilege mate
    I bet that's in degrees and minutes...
    So 2 minutes under a degree (a gnats ball hair) against 2 minutes over...
    Pretty close.

    Unless it's decimals of a degree...but I'd expect not.


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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis Moeller View Post
    Thank you!
    My pleasure!

    Will rear Toe need adjustment again?
    More than likely, sadly. Sorry.


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  4. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by s3ollie View Post
    do you have you bars on the top Dennis?

    I had to change mine to the bottom to get the correct toe on the rear. it sat at + 3 degrees per side before hand with the adjuster plate on the sills. obviously you got you toe OK but i could be affecting the camber.

    also your front camber:

    Before:

    Front left Camber: -1.29
    Front right Camber: -0.25

    Now:

    Front left Camber: -1.02
    Front right Camber: -0.58

    Although its better its now its still not IMO close to equal . id be wanting it spot on if i was paying 330 for the privilege mate
    You mean that adjusting the rear Toe to where it's at now affected the camber in a negative way? I think he did what he could first regarding rear Camber and then he adjusted the rear Toe...I wanted 0.00 at the rear but he couldn't get that even if he used the VAG tool.

    Regarding the front Camber it's as Ess thinks. The paper I got to show what they done the values are f. ex. Front left Camber -1 (and then the degree sign) . 02'
    So should be pretty close. The dealer will take the car in one more time when I've figured out what to do and align the car to the values I want (or as close as they honestly can) so it won't be an extra cost for me. It's expensive enough already. I know that dealership pretty well and they give me extremely good service, always has. The guy who does the alignment sets up Porsches for track days etc. and he's a friend to a frien so he was as sorry as any that he couldn't get it right. He's ready for the next round :-)
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

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  5. #44
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    You should find you'll get your rear toe and camber sorted by swapping the adjustable bars over.

    Sadly, there seems to be no firm up or down for there...it varies from car to car.


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  6. #45
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    Very informative for a newbe like me, thanks guys. I'm a new member of the site.
    I recently bought a 2001 S3, it was traded in at my Local Lincoln Audi and i got a good deal paying cash for it as a trade sale. I'm a mechanic at a small independent VAG specailist and we deal with Lincoln Audi for Genuine parts the car has a full Audi history and although its got 98k on the clock its in good condition apart from lots of stone chips on the front bumper wings and bonnet. I was wondering what the best suspension set up was for it. I have played with cars in the past and fitted several kits at work and i agree budget coilovers are just a waste of space. I think if the genuine audi springs and dampers cost alot more, than say a 200 set of ebay (made in china) coilovers then they are a big no no and will make it handle worse than stock. If buying budget coilovers i would not go cheaper than around the 700 mark, (koni's or eibach's) I personally will be shortly buying Bilstein B8's and H&R springs. Need some 18's though then i can fit them all at the same time. Does anyone run Pirelli P Zero rubber? Whats it drive like?
    Thanks ........

  7. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3-GAZ View Post
    Does anyone run Pirelli P Zero rubber? Whats it drive like?
    Thanks ........
    I had some P Zero Neros on mine for a while...a short while. I hated them. The Avons were better!
    The ones I had were around half worn...but just no feel and not much grip - especially in the wet.


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  8. #47
    Works 60% the time, Everytime.

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    I had Rosso's and found them quite good. Ive just purchased F1's though but not had a chance to try them out.

    2003 Audi S3 + Go faster bits

  9. #48
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    Like all tyres...it sounds like personal choice rules...
    It really depends on how you drive and how the car is set up.


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  10. #49
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    so if i get the kw springs and shocks set up, does that mean ill have to get rear adustable arms, as ill probally have it lowered by 30mm, also whats a happy medium for wheel alignment, i do like to go fast round the country roads but needs more confidence ? Can you buy lightweight calipers, im going to go for handling now before power as i feel my car is powerful enough for me atm !, im first saving up for the suspension then ill probally get some lighter breaking mods, drilled discs lioghter callipers etc. should if get my wheels alighned straight after i have my suspension fitted ?
    Its gone replaced with a mk2 golf gti 16v :D

  11. #50
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    New Project for Noob

    Hi Guys,

    Thanks Chris and Ess_Three for this thread!!

    I'm about to come into S3 ownership for the second time.
    This time I want to turn it into a driving machine like you all seem to have.

    The car has already been re-mapped but the suspension remains untouched.

    My question comes in essentially two parts: this all sound like quite a lot of work to do and I would imagine likely have to be done in stages.

    Thus, in what order would you recommend getting the modifications done? (perhaps a few jobs at a time)

    And realistically how much am I likely to need to save in order do make the changes?

    One last thing; the car has 17"s which I want to upgrade to 18"s. Would this affect the setup and thus need doing first?

    Thanks for any help and advice

    Regards

    Steve

  12. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevehart View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Thanks Chris and Ess_Three for this thread!!

    I'm about to come into S3 ownership for the second time.
    This time I want to turn it into a driving machine like you all seem to have.

    The car has already been re-mapped but the suspension remains untouched.

    My question comes in essentially two parts: this all sound like quite a lot of work to do and I would imagine likely have to be done in stages.

    Thus, in what order would you recommend getting the modifications done? (perhaps a few jobs at a time)
    In my mind, there are three distinct stages.

    1. Springs, Dampers, Adjustable Tie Bars and an alignment.
    This lot should be done together....but isn't cheap.

    Don't skimp on the adjustable tie bars...it's selling the rest of your suspension short and will cost you money in tyre wear in the long run.

    2. ARBs if you feel you need them...some won't. So don't bother.
    If you do, add them...the only additional cost being you have to pay again for an alignment as you'll screw up the first one fitting the ARBs.

    3. wheels - 18" if it were me.
    Do them anytime you like...the handling settings don't change...you just get a slightly tighter feel on the 18s.


    And realistically how much am I likely to need to save in order do make the changes?
    1. Approx 1500 all fitted and set up.
    2. Approx 500 all fitted and set up.
    3. Approx 1000-1200 - depending on wheels/tyres


    One last thing; the car has 17"s which I want to upgrade to 18"s. Would this affect the setup and thus need doing first?
    Nope. Do it anytime.


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  13. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by emery1990 View Post
    so if i get the kw springs and shocks set up, does that mean ill have to get rear adustable arms, as ill probally have it lowered by 30mm,
    Yes, if you want it to handle properly and not wreck the inside edges of the rear tyres.


    also whats a happy medium for wheel alignment, i do like to go fast round the country roads but needs more confidence ?
    -1.5 degrees negative camber at the front...with parallel toe or ever so slight toe out (say 1 to 2 mins)
    -1.0 degrees negative camber at the rear...with parallel toe.


    Can you buy lightweight calipers, im going to go for handling now before power as i feel my car is powerful enough for me atm !,
    Front or back?
    Rears are already alloy...
    Fronts can be swapped to lighter alloy callipers...but generally the bigger discs associtated with the kit weigh more...so status quo (ish).

    With decent suspension you'll not notice the difference though (standard brakes to uprated)


    im first saving up for the suspension then ill probally get some lighter breaking mods, drilled discs lioghter callipers etc.
    Save your money and forget drilled discs. They'll crack in time. Get grooved...or even plain with decent pads.


    should if get my wheels alighned straight after i have my suspension fitted ?
    Yes...pretty much.
    Give it a day or two to let the springs settle in...then get it done.


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  14. #53
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    Cheers Ess_Three,

    that was very helpful

    Steve

  15. #54
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    Great write up thanks. I couldn't see anything about costs - what are potential suspension upgrades pricewise?
    Negaro Blue, Silver Recaros, 18" RSTT Wheels, Chrome Mirrors.

  16. #55
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    wow. loving the generalisations and Parada Spec2 recommendation haha

  17. #56
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    Hey guys, so what is the latest general consensus on new shocks to go with Eibach Pro springs?

    OEM or std replacements from say ECP or GSF?

  18. #57
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    Bilstien B8 dampers all day long

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  19. #58
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    Hey up Tuffy... Sounds good to me. I dont want a harsh ride but the new s3 is waaay too high.
    Also no point replacing just the springs on to 107,000 mile old shocks!

  20. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    Bilstien B8 dampers all day long

    <tuffty/>
    Agree 100%, the B8's are simply perfect for the S3.

    Quote Originally Posted by Schlaag View Post
    Hey up Tuffy... Sounds good to me. I dont want a harsh ride but the new s3 is waaay too high.
    Also no point replacing just the springs on to 107,000 mile old shocks!
    Would consider getting H&R 25mm to go with B8's.. That plus the beefier rear sway bar and the adjustable tie bars + adjustment of the camber really worked magic on my old S3.. God I still miss it
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
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  21. #60
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    Thumbs up

    Hi, I thought I would ask a question on this thread rather than starting a new one.

    I need to have my alignment done as the tyres are wearing faster on the inside (front wheels)

    I drive quite quickly and corner aggressively, would standard manufacturer settings be ok or should I try one of the settings people have suggested on here?

    I rang ATS which is the nearest laser alignment to me and they said they wouldn't do it to my specifications, only to manufacturer, I haven't asked the other place I've had it done before but they charge £85 and ATS is only £45.

    They also say it doesn't matter if I have the alignment done before or after I change the tyres, but my friend says otherwise, which is the case?

    Any suggestions? Suspension and wheels are standard.

    Thanks!

  22. #61
    Chugger

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    Tyres don't make any difference! If on standard suspension I'd go for oem geometry settings personally, they have been made to give you the best all round setting, you may find that changing for a better cornering setup could make it more twitchy on the motorway. It will feel so good when correctly set, so surprising
    57 A3 2.0 TDI Sportback (140)

  23. #62
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    OK thanks! Will stick with the standard settings then. Will probably do the suspension and brakes at some points and then will have more questions!

  24. #63
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    How the front camber adjustment should be done, i.e. which part should be moved? Ball joints I guess?
    Just dropped the car to garage and now they called and said that they couldn't get front camber done..

    EDIT: I aksed them to adjust the front camber -1.2deg and now its -1.04 and -0.50. Is that much difference acceptable?
    Last edited by BuuBBa; 21st February 2013 at 12:28.

 

 
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