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Thread: rear tie bars?

  1. #1
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    rear tie bars?

    what ones are available and where from? and how much ŁŁŁ? lowered the s3 30mm and rear has a tad too much neg camber..

    thanks - dan

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  3. #2
    jesters3's Avatar
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    KW: Ł210ish
    FORGE: Ł330ish

    Check out dpmauTostyling.co.uk section and website or PM Damian DPM

    http://www.dpmautostyling.co.uk/cata...d18908294eb35e
    Jester
    "On my second S3 and loving it. RS3 here I come!!!"

  4. #3
    fingermouse's Avatar
    thats me

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    ecs

    and I think jabba do a exchange thing where they get originals altered.
    red to red black to black blue to bits

  5. #4
    S3Steve's Avatar
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    Jabba ones are Ł150 exchange iirc, they are what ive got on mine.
    2007 A3 TDI 170 S Line
    Sold - 2002 S3

  6. #5
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    steve have you got any pics? just wanna see how they mod them as might just get the old man on the case as hes an engineer

  7. #6
    S3Steve's Avatar
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    Sorry ive not got any pics, but they look just the same as the ones forge do. (forge have pics on there website)
    2007 A3 TDI 170 S Line
    Sold - 2002 S3

  8. #7
    voorhees's Avatar
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    cut the original tie bars in half and add threaded bar in the middle with nuts to lock it in place when in the correct position....thats the basics of whats needed Dan,let your Dad workout the dimensions

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by voorhees View Post
    cut the original tie bars in half and add threaded bar in the middle with nuts to lock it in place when in the correct position....thats the basics of whats needed Dan,let your Dad workout the dimensions
    It's not just a threaded bar you need...it's a nut section with a RH thread one side and a LH thread the other (with the correct LH and RH half-nut locknuts - or full size locknuts I suppose, if you prefer), with the ends of the cut-in-half tie bars threaded (one RH and one LH) and shortened by the width of the nut + 2 half nuts.

    This way you can adjust the bar on the car by loosening the locknuts and turning the nut section with a spanner.

    not using a LH + RH thread will mean you have to take the bar off one end to adjust it - nightmare!

    It's not hard to do, engineering wise, if you have the skills, the kit and faith that you've made them strong enough, 'cos if they break you crash.

    Add into the cost poly bushes...and is it worth it over buying TUV approved bars?


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  10. #9
    voorhees's Avatar
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    thats why I said basics Glen

 

 

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