This write up is pretty good, but to add my points, having just done the job myself:
Tensioner Damper:
The step which shows you screwing in a piece of threaded rod to depress the plunger is awkward on the car. Instead I unscrewed the pulley to remove the old belt, then removed the plunger and compressed as follows:
Place a "G-Clamp" upright in a vice in the vertical plane, then install the plunger in the clamp. Note - place a small socket over the end of the plunger, to stop it slipping out of the clamp when you compress it. Now slowly and steadily compress the plunger by tightening the wing-nut on the g-clamp until you can insert an allen key, through the holes in the damper body and plunger. Note when compressing the plunger by rotating the clamps wing nut, only rotate the nut a little, then pause, then a little more then pause remember you are applying tension. If the holes in the plunger/damper dont quite align, you can rotate it slightly using long nosed pliers. Now, re-install on car and when ready to tension the belt, you pull out the pin/allen key.
I found this much much easier then the on-car method described.
Only other points are - when aligning the TDC position, the camshaft is easy to see, but I always make my own tip-ex ref marks on the crank pulley/enginer and a dot on the cam pulley/engine. As much as anythign else, they stand out much easier.
Second, the belt was tight to get over the cam pulley, so I suggest only pushing the belt half on the crank, until you have got it up and aroudn the cam pulley.
I have done a lot of belts on a lot of different makes and woudl say this one is about middle of the road in terms of difficulty. The most annoying part for me was getting off the top of the timing belt cover and the engine mount bracket.
There are quite a few bits to move and come off, but I always keep the nuts/bolts/parts organised to make re-assembly easier.
Good luck.
