IHI VF34 Conversion Pics

I went for INA "street density" uprated rubber mounts from the states.. I understand poly mounts are tough, but the vibration would annoy me. I've see some 1.8T poly mounts fail due to lack of any play at all.
Plus I though I'd try something new.........oh, and they are much cheaper than the VF poly mounts, so I saved a bit there.
 
The traction control has now been fitted and all I can say is WOW!!!! It really does what it says on the tin. I'm very impressed with it. Calibration was a simple process of finding a straight piece of road with a 180° SLOW bend onto another straight. Took 5 minutes.
Now I can put my foot down and it grips in all gears.....very satisfying as the car launches off. I'm still playing with the settings as you can adjust minimum speed threshold, slip override for straights, launch settings etc.
There are 4 sequential cut sequences with increasing severities of fuel cut depending on the amount of slip detected. Very smooth and progressive.
Launch control sounds awesome with all the pops etc.
I can't wait for it to rain to see how it is in damp conditions. Days of spinning the wheels in the lower gears should be gone.

Rich, so far my ABS sensors are performing fine. I did some real time logging and there were no spikes in the data or unwanted missfires at low speeds. Fingers crossed I won't have the same issues you experienced. All wheel speed values were identical on the graph.

Here are some fitting pics for those who like to see things in bits.

Extending wires for injector cuts in the drip tray:
Traction_Control_004.jpg

Traction_Control_005.jpg


Route into cabin + boost gauge vacuum pipe:
Traction_Control_006.jpg


Finished injector cuts. Used plugs so I can revert to standard if required. Also sealed with silicone to stop water ingress (not pictured):
Traction_Control_008.jpg


Location of ABS wiring:
Traction_Control_009.jpg


ABS connections for wheel speed input:
Traction_Control_011.jpg


Finished connections all taped up:
Traction_Control_016.jpg


Diagnostics/programming/logging port with test light in glove box:
Traction_Control_017.jpg


Brain fitted next to fuse box:
Traction_Control_020.jpg


Location of selector switch. Temporary mounting solution. I'll change this when I think of something better:
Traction_Control_022.jpg
 
It is really good to see that people are still getting their hands dirty working on their own cars, I know in todays day and age we don't all have time or sometimes even the know how, but you just can't beat that feeling of I did that. (Or even the bleeding knuckles)
HTC top work mate, I'm sure we are following this thread with great interest.
:applaus:
 
Wingnut Express said:
It is really good to see that people are still getting their hands dirty working on their own cars, I know in todays day and age we don't all have time or sometimes even the know how, but you just can't beat that feeling of I did that. (Or even the bleeding knuckles)
HTC top work mate, I'm sure we are following this thread with great interest.
:applaus:
Click to expand...


I second that.

Look forward to seeing this thread continue with your outstanding exploits of workmanship on your car.

You are a scholar and gentleman.

:anbet:
 
Do you need to see the racelogic controller knob, ie to set it? If not, try a location like under the steering coloumn, not visible but a simple turn knob very accessible.

Haha, when I saw your first pic, I though, christ, he's let his standards drop! LOL
 
Cheers for the comments.

Simch, the controller sets the amount of slip and initiates launch and is used to switch the system off. I would have preferred it to be located in the ash tray, but it wouldn't fit as in som MK4 golfs I've seen. I'm happy with the location as it can be reached fine without stretching. I'm just not happy with the mounting. I'll screw it to the dash pocket some how.

Cheers Gav, but what are you worrying about, you don't get rain wear you live :)
 
HTC said:
Cheers Gav, but what are you worrying about, you don't get rain wear you live :)
Click to expand...

You'd think living in the driest state, on the driest continent. Had thunderstorm like I have never seen in the UK even in Manchester!!!

When it rains here it proper comes down, where you get days and days of drizzle in the UK but hardly any volume.

I actually downloaded the fitting manual this week. Probably money better spent on TC over suspension at the moment.

Gavin
 
Very impressive piece of kit.. nicely fitted too. Whats next??
 
What a good thread! Just read most of the 3 pages and it's very interesting.

Well done with the work, I admire your skills and thanks for sharing.
 
Thanks again for the comments.
I had a play earlier on some twisty roads and full power exiting roundabouts whilst it was quiet out. What understeer I had is now controlled. Again I'm really impressed. It feels like a different car! So glad I bought the system.

Shy19s said:
Whats next??
Click to expand...

Well it feels like I can up the power again :) .............but I think I'll stop for the now. Obviously the new engine mounts will go on this week as I have them at home.
Next will most likely be a set of scat con rods and stronger valves, but thats really for piece of mind. I may pick up an AGU engine off ebay to play with so I can keep mine on the road. If I do fit new rods etc, then I'll up the boost a little for some extra torque, but it's close to VF34 boost limits as it is.
They are know to be weak at high boost. Worst case I'd fit a mitsubishi td05 16g (direct bolt on for my manifold and downpipe) or similar which can take those boost levels all day. Had I known this 6 months ago then I probably would have gone for this turbo in the first place.

Basically I think I'm done for now. Time to go and enjoy it. :rockwoot:
 
Excellent work Kev. Until you've tried it, you cant understand how well it does really work... Its a transformation really. Yes the IHI is smooth, but it still exceeds the limits of traction. With the added benefit of a diff, traction in FWD cars would not be an issue....at all.

Rich
 
Awesome HTC, do you mind if i ask what set up your running now, as far as mods go, suspension, cosmetics etc?
 
I should update my sig.

Engine:
AGU - standard internals
Jabbasport IHI VF34 turbo clocked for audi fitment - modified wastegate port (to relieve stress raiser angles) - P18 turbine housing.
JBS tubular exhaust manifold
JBS 3" downpipe
2.5" home made cat pipe utilising milltek 300cel CAT
Jetex 2.5" cat back exhaust - two silencers - rear tips slash cut with my angle grinder :)
Standard airbox and paper air filter
Forge 007P DV
Boost Factory uprated side mount intercooler
VR6 clutch with G60 lightended flywheel (6.35kg)
Phase 3 Custom Code ECU software
Genesis 415cc injectors running at 4bar (effectively 480cc)
INA Street Density uprated rubber engine mounts (80 durometer)
Racelogic Traction Control

Chassis
FK highsport coilovers - fixed damping (running approx 20-25mm lower than standard)
Eibach ARBs 22mm front, 25mm rear.
FK metal droplinks
TT 312mm front discs and calipers, oem pads
Standard rear discs and pads
17" x 7.5" BBS RC041 wheels
H&R 20mm PCD wheel adapters
205/45R17 Poopy poop poop Falkden tyres

Cosmetics Exterior
ummmmmmmmm nothing, it's standard

Interior
VDO boost gauge in a home made a pillar
Facelift airvents (I liked the bling and lights)
 
Awesome set up, thanks for posting that.. what is that clutch good for torque wise? Did you notice a difference with the flywheel, does it get the power down abit better, do you like the motorbike type revving that you get or isnt it like that? Does that fly and Clutch fit a BAM?
Did you fit a screamer pipe with this turbo?

Also have you uprated or thought about uprating the drive shafts.. we blew the bearings on the CRX last week, running too much power through them, so we're going quaife.

When you fit the coilovers did you fit the ARBs seperate? Notice a big difference?

Would the head from a AGU engine fit on a BAM block.. i understand that the AGU has non VVT which as you've told me before doesnt make a difference apart from idling and it is large port if my memory serves me correctly?

And one last thing how big are the standard injectors? 280s?
 
what boost are you runing now htc?
Did you ever get it on jkm's rollers?
 
I really couldn't say in numbers how the flywheel effects torque. The principle is that the lighter weight allows the the engine and thus turbo to spool up quicker. I assume the net effect is better torque low in the rev range. Steve who mapped the car did mention that the turbo was very responsive.
In reality you have to lighten the VR6/G60 combo as in standard form it's heavier than the stock dual mass. But it's easy to reduce the weight to less than stock. OEM VR6 clutch is rated to approx 330ft/lb so mine should be fine as I'm under that.
This setup does not fit 4WD, but it would fit a BAM engine if you were using a 2WD gearbox.

Not into screamers or open exhausts.

I've no reason to swap driveshafts. If they go, so be it, but I've not heard of many issues.

Coilovers and ARBs were fited separately. My original suspension was shot, so anything was going to help. Coilovers made a huge difference to controlling the weight transfer in corners. Car felt alot more stable. ARBs again made a big difference making the car feel more neutral, dialing out alot of under steer. These cars really need the bigger rear bar IMO. Again less diagonal weight transfer so less camber change in corners and less weight on the outer front tyre.

AGU head will fit a BAM engine. You actually get more torque out of a small port engine, but AGU should makes larger power, however it's only really noticable if you go for a really large turbo. At my power level, I don't think its that bigger deal (open to be proved wrong of course).
You can make the BAM non-vvt buy fitting the cam tensioner from an AGU if you really want to, straight swap.

1.8T injector spreadsheet

Max boost is usually around 22-23psi. Haven't really been watching the boost gauge that much, but seems to hold over 19psi to red line.
I haven't had a chance to get to JKM just yet.
 
Thanks for posting that.. Is it a personal choice not to fit a screamer pipe or is there little/no benefit from it? Dont know much about them to be honest, just thought a big turbo would require it to help the actuator release excess boost?

Sounds like no point changing the head either, as torque is what im chasing...and from what you know about the set up i want i would need a cupra box wouldnt i?

Also your running alot of boost! it must sound amazing!
 
These are internally wastegated turbos so you could'nt really fit a screamer pipe.
 
So im guessing my theory was relating to externally wastegated turbos? or is there an alternative to this also?
 
///BEAVIS////huh huh huh, huuh hu huh huh huhh huh.........he said flaps!
 
why the new name dude? whats the whole 19s and 20s thing about?

Car looks great Kev, I'd love to see how the racelogic works.

When it's working properly, my ko3S running 24psi is violent as it comes on boost, despite making very humble power.....
 
Why was Shy banned guys? Looking at his posts I didn't find anything horrific.....

Seems the Sky20s account is banned too
 
1.6 to 1.8t engine transplant without telling the insurance IIRC.
 
audi upgrades
HTC are you going to inters?There having a mobile dyno there (DD) perhaps chuck it on?
I'll try and find you if your going.
 
Good idea Mr, I'm there on Saturday. There was a gap on the club stand so I'll be parked in that area. I'll be the guy with zero hair standing with the guy with the tattoos :)

I've heard that DD dynos are pretty accurate.

Probably going to chuck it down the strip too.
 
Been under my car again today to fit some new engine mounts. The INA street density items look just like OEM mounts but with harder rubber (80 durometer I believe)

INA_Street_Density_Engine_Mounts.jpg


Not the most exciting things to look but they do the job. The engine is held much better with minimal vibration felt in the car. I didn't fancy a set of vibra-technics mounts for this reason.

My old mounts must have been trashed as gear changes feel much better now.

Also had a good look around whilst under the car and noticed a bolt missing from the bottom of the turbo to downpipe........interesting.
I check the other bolts and found some of them to be loose, so replaced the missing one and tightened the others.
I was previously getting a whistling sound under high boost which seems to have gone now. Some air must have been escaping at WOT.

I was also getting an error code 00561 adaption not reached (add) indicating slightly weak mixture at idle. I found a split hose from the fuel tank breather to charcoal cannister in the engine bay. Since fitting a new pipe, I haven't seen the 00561 error code return.

So today I am a happy camper.

Also ran some logs and found the my intercooler isn't really up to the job for extended WOT. I'll sort this out as and when.
 
HTC said:
Good idea Mr, I'm there on Saturday. There was a gap on the club stand so I'll be parked in that area. I'll be the guy with zero hair standing with the guy with the tattoos :)

I've heard that DD dynos are pretty accurate.

Probably going to chuck it down the strip too.
Click to expand...

I wish I was going, could do with a good dubbing!

Gavin
 
I little update on my car. I had a bit of a scare a GTI international on the strip. My car suddenly started overboosting. At one point it went right off the scale, probably hit about 28-30psi!! So not good.
Turns out it was a faulty N75 valve not allowing enough pressure to be diverted away from the wastegate actuator. I've swapped for a different one and boost is back to normal.

Talking to folk I was very lucky not to explode my engine. With that in mind (and a bigger turbo in the planning), I've decided to uprate the engine internals. I'll be sticking with the standard bore, but replacing the rods and valve gear. Should be able to rev 1000rpm higher in confidence with this lot. Also grabbed some larger injectors and a better fuel pump in light of a larger turbo if/when I get it.

Engine_Internals_001.jpg
 
HTC said:
I little update on my car. I had a bit of a scare a GTI international on the strip. My car suddenly started overboosting. At one point it went right off the scale, probably hit about 28-30psi!! So not good.
Turns out it was a faulty N75 valve not allowing enough pressure to be diverted away from the wastegate actuator. I've swapped for a different one and boost is back to normal.

Talking to folk I was very lucky not to explode my engine. With that in mind (and a bigger turbo in the planning), I've decided to uprate the engine internals. I'll be sticking with the standard bore, but replacing the rods and valve gear. Should be able to rev 1000rpm higher in confidence with this lot. Also grabbed some larger injectors and a better fuel pump in light of a larger turbo if/when I get it.

Engine_Internals_001.jpg
Click to expand...

Some nice gear Kev. When do you think you'll get it all fitted?
Gavin
 
HTC said:
I little update on my car. I had a bit of a scare a GTI international on the strip. My car suddenly started overboosting. At one point it went right off the scale, probably hit about 28-30psi!! So not good.
Turns out it was a faulty N75 valve not allowing enough pressure to be diverted away from the wastegate actuator. I've swapped for a different one and boost is back to normal.

Talking to folk I was very lucky not to explode my engine. With that in mind (and a bigger turbo in the planning), I've decided to uprate the engine internals. I'll be sticking with the standard bore, but replacing the rods and valve gear. Should be able to rev 1000rpm higher in confidence with this lot. Also grabbed some larger injectors and a better fuel pump in light of a larger turbo if/when I get it.

Engine_Internals_001.jpg
Click to expand...

I bet you enjopyed laying all that gear out to take the pic. :photo:
 
I know, proper geek! I have had to refer back to my photos on the odd occation..........my defense :drool:

Gav, I might have them fitted within the next few weeks. Have to wait and see how work goes. Trying to decide on the best option of valve spring compressor at the mo. Apparently the valves and springs are deeply recessed into the head.
 
Nice! Love getting a stack of bits together!

I'll be ripping my block to bits next week and changing my rods, rings and big end bearings. Decided against the valves for now. Will do this in the near future...Not a HUGE job to take the head off.

Rich
 
I bought a valve spring compressor that is double ended, you can swap the ends to do small valves (like on a 16V) and it'll do motorbikes too.

20V can't be any worse than a 16V.

Search on ebay for Laser 2609 to see what mine looks like.

Should do it easy.

Gavin
 
Rich, by your wording it sounds like you are intending to swap rods without removing the head........or am I reading that incorrectly?

Thanks for the tip Gav, hadn't seen that one before. Could you do me a favour and measure the dameter of the ends. The inlet buckets are 24mm in diameter so it needs to be no bigger I assume. Exhaust buckets are larger, so no problem there.
 
OOOH another HTC continuation build thread, wicked :w00t:

I look forward to reading this in the coming months.

All hail
 
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