Mot failure :(

mephisto

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Just failed my S3 on worn rear discs and pads and NSF CV boot has a hole in it :eek:/

Quoted me £300 for the work inc parts, I totted up parts from German & Swedish

Discs
Pads
CV Boot

45031 CV BOOT KIT-OUTER A3 1.6 96> 6.75 1
62428 BRAKE DISC-RE VENT 256mm A3 S3 25.40 2
64604 BRAKE PAD SET-RE PAGID TQ A3 9/96 > 17.25 1

TOTAL £ 74.80

So £225 labour, sounds alot?

SO i might to it myself.

Questions:

are there any torque heads on the caliper assemblies or discs?

How easy is it to replace a CV boot?

TIA
 
I've not done a CV boot on the Audi but its messy, all greasy inside, and you normally need a tool for the clamps that keep the boot on, but its like 20 pounds.

For the rear brakes, you just need the caliper windback tool, another 20 pounds, and the caliper comes off with a standard socket set.

225 certainly is a lot of labour.
 
Does that price include the VAT, that will be a good chunk. Plus they will want some mark up on parts.
 
mine failed MOT aswell but only for headlight was too low motor was broke fitted new and then it passed, my CV boot is wearing on the nearside too how easy a job is it? i've done boots before but on older cars, older being 1985 caddy.
 
And also, i dont know what branch of GSF you use, but the one we use do pants, cheap brakes, which may be why its cheap.
 
Well another garage quoted me £290 all in for:

Genuine Audi Pads/Discs - rear
Outer Cv Boot replacement - NSF


Not sure what deal theyd be getting on those parts (still around £70) So that's 220 odd in labour.. :eek:/
 
Okay, found another garage local to me will do the work plus parts for £235 all in ,sold!! 40years in the trade so they must be doing something right.
 
mephisto said:
Okay, found another garage local to me will do the work plus parts for £235 all in ,sold!! 40years in the trade so they must be doing something right.

Yep that seems much better, although i would fit the rear pads and discs my self to save even more money. You can buy pads and discs from vwspares for £70 inc del and get the rewind tool for £18 from gsf. total £88 then should be able to get the boot supplied and fitted for £70-£90 from most garages - grand total £158-£178
 
I agree with the above, rear discs n pads arent a tough diy job at all, i can see why you might not want to do the boot due to the mess etc
 
Yeah thanks chaps, think im gonna go the DIY route, get him just to do the CV boot.
 
OKay i didn't go down the DIY route, was quoted £235 all in to replace the Discs and NSF Cv boot.

Ok, so i pick the car up the next day, and go to drive it down the road, tyres half flat, and worse i reckon i was holding the wheel at about between 1-2oclock (as opposed to 12oclock) to steer straight!!!

Took it back in straight away, mentioned it, so they put it up on the ramps and adjusted something near the bottom wishbone arm on NSF, then said try that. Was better although im worried they messed with my geometry as this is an S3 and im sure it costs alot to set the wheel alignment up. Anyway it';s back in because now when i accelerate brake there's a clonk from the nsf :(

Q1. Did they need to touch/meddle with my suspension geometry or what have they done to access my CV boot the correct way?

Q2. How do i get them to fix this properly?
 
If your steering wheel sits off-centre its usually just a tracking issue it shouldnt cause you too many other problems and is a simple adjustment of the t/r/ends.

Clunk from the front i quite honestly have no idea
 
They never touched the track rod ends replacing the CV boot, and he certainly wasn't adjusting that when they 'fixed' it, i was watching. Looked mored like he was trying to pull the bottom of the wheel back in..camber sort of....
 
that sounds very odd. I hope they have reattached the driveshaft properly, although i cant really see how they could not have done that properly unless they are complete idiots.
 
sound like they removed the bottom ball joint, there are 3 elongated holes so you can adjust the camber slightly there. But why the wheel was not central ????
 
if they've not got the three bolts back in the right place then that'd mean the position of the pivot point has changed. the wheel would be centering in a different position because the length of the steering rack was still the same
 

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