Finally remaped at Jabba, but got some probelms

[Defratos]

Ok so I finally got my car over to Jabba for a remap last week. It went in with Mike for like 2 ½ hrs before he came out and told me that the car’s running really weak standard (193 hp), he had his suspicions about the Star FMIC (as did I) so he recommended I change it back to Standard with the twin set-up.
The most he was able to get the car to was 223hp and around 250lbft running which I was disappointed about to say the least and I think he said it was trying to push out 1.9bars but was having problems (I’m not too sure how to check boost pressure so if someone could shed some light it’ll be helpful). He said there’s a restriction somewhere in the car and it seems to be the FMIC, the exhaust didn’t seem to be a restriction (and I doubt it’s the exhaust either as it doesn’t seem to be restrictive at all)http://00626e1.netsolhost.com/formoshun/s3/MIJ.htm.
Anyway to cut the long story short, I changed the FMIC back to the standard twin setup and managed to gain an extra few hp now Vag-com gives me 235hp and 260lbft max an extra 12hp and around 10lbft. So I thought it could be a boost leak. I’ve been looking around but haven’t been able to find anything really (a few pipes came loose with the higher boost but I re-secured them). The car feels great compared to how it was, or how I ever remember being, the boost and turbo spool starts at around 2’300rpm and goes up the rev range well. BUT it’s not producing the power outputs I’m looking for and I can’t figure out what other parts would be faulty as most of the engine bits are Standard (just some Samco hoses).
I’ve got some figures below for those of you who are interested, I would really appreciate it if someone could show me a chart of how the Requested boost Vs Actual boost charts should look like as standard, as I cannot figure out if my standard IC is leaking from anywhere (I’ve checked all the joints and they all seem to be fine) and I need something to compare it with. All the figures below were done in 3rd gear on full throttle from 1000-redline on straight roads. Roughly same outside temp.


Star FMIC
(Block 115)

OEM FMIC
(Block 115)

Waste gate
(Block 118)

BHP
Star FMIC
(Block 120)
Peaked 255.86 lbft @ 3360 rpm
Peaked 222.40hp @ 5320 rpm

BHP
OEM FMIC
(Block 120)
Peaked 244.79 lbft @ 5000 rpm
Peaked 233.05 @ 5000 rpm

Ok I know the HP figures above don’t correspond with the figures I gave above but this was the first test I did after fixing the IC, I did some further tests which gave me 235hp and 260lbft. Anyway any help as to where the problem is would be great,

OEM FMIC
(Block 002)
Peaked at 190.53gs @ 5720rpm

Air flow seems to be good as well. Below is the Dyno plot from Jabba.

 

[simch]

It could be intercooler, but what size exhaust do you have? IS it 2.75 inch or 2.5 inch?
How about the cat? Is it a stock cat, how may miles etc?

TBH, this is the problem with many of the mods you seem to have, they do nothign for power in general, and in many cases can cause a big problem. First thing I would do is put a stock dv on, with near 1.9bar, any piston version is prone to sticking and causing a plethora of problems!
I would also try theh stock airbox and maybe have a cat check done at an MOT place, it coudl be they are knacked and blocked up.
A difficult one to sort, and even if you cure it, I think wtihout it going back for a remap, you may not notcie it too much.
BTW, what fuel are you running? Hwo are your timing blocks, any big pull back?

 

[Defratos]

My mid pipe (after the sport cat is 2.25" and it goes into 2" pipe work. I'm not sure how my cat is, the car's done 77'000 miles. Most other bits on the car are standard now so I was hoping for a better improvement. I thought the OEM dump valve is prone to failing? I've got a fully re-circulating dv so it shouldn't be causing any problems. it might be worth checking the cats, if they're blocked would this mean new cats needed? and I thought the car is supposed to re-program itself with the problems I was having i.e. a restriction problem somewhere as apposed to a Major mechanical fault. Mike told me I should see some gains when I find the cause of the restriction but you're saying I'll have to take it back for another remap? That would suck. How do I check my timing blocks? what block # is it on vag com? I'm running BP ultimate I think 97oct. Thanks for the feedback

 

[Ess_Three]

1.9 bar?
I think not...1.9 bar boost will be giving 340 lb-ft!

Are you sure you aren't getting confused with 1.9 bar Absolute..how VAG-Com reads...that is measured against no pressure (with atmospheric adding approx 1000mb to the figure)
1.9 bar absolute = roughly 0.9 bar boost - give or take a bit for changes in atmospheric pressure....and 0.9 bar at the red line is about what a simple re-map will be holding to the red-line.

1.9 bar of boost will be approx 2.9 bar absolute..which you can't read with VAG-Com as it tops out at around 2670 mb absolute.

As for the FMIC, as long as it's got holes in either end, if it's the same as mine was, it's not a restriction..
Adds fractionally more lag, if you run lead-lag on the ICs, but it's not a restriction.

I suspect your problem is elsewhere...but unsure where.

 

[Defratos]

How can i check what boost pressure im running with vag com? Thanks for the feedback

 

[shineydave]

i know i've gone on about this in the past and for the record i do believe Jabba to be one of the more reputable tuners from what i've read on here. however i still can't understand why a tuner would lay a map on a car that obviously has a fault. did they do a pressure check first and run a fault scan on the car?

there's no way anyone in their right mind would try to increase the power of a car that wasn't healthy, it's asking for trouble.

can you not get it back to them to give them the chance to sort it out?

 

[vanilla_ice]

i know i've gone on about this in the past and for the record i do believe Jabba to be one of the more reputable tuners from what i've read on here. however i still can't understand why a tuner would lay a map on a car that obviously has a fault. did they do a pressure check first and run a fault scan on the car?

there's no way anyone in their right mind would try to increase the power of a car that wasn't healthy, it's asking for trouble.

can you not get it back to them to give them the chance to sort it out?

Seconded - and I have a Jabba map!!!!

Hope you can get to the bottom of your problems mate.


ICE

 

[Defratos]

i know i've gone on about this in the past and for the record i do believe Jabba to be one of the more reputable tuners from what i've read on here. however i still can't understand why a tuner would lay a map on a car that obviously has a fault. did they do a pressure check first and run a fault scan on the car?

there's no way anyone in their right mind would try to increase the power of a car that wasn't healthy, it's asking for trouble.

can you not get it back to them to give them the chance to sort it out?

Well from the impression I got they seemed pretty stumped about it, they just gave me the advice to change the FMIC to the oem one and that's it. I would have given them all the time they needed to get down to the problem but I'm not sure if all the checks were done. What else other than the IC could my problem be? and nice list of things to check would be nice. How do I do a pressure check? isn't that the same as measuring requested vs actual boost?

 

[Defratos]

and doesn't anyone have a graph showing standard S3 figures for block 115 in vag-com (i.e. requested vs actual boost?)

 

[simch]

Hang on! You said Mike ran it on the rollers for 2.5hours before telling you there was some problem as standard it was weak. Sounds like he checked a fair bit to be fair!
It takes about 40 minutes to prep an s3 for the jabba rollers, what with removal of the rear shafts and fitting the lamda probe. The problem is that with the things you have fitted which with respect are pretty much of unknown quality and performance, they could have spent hours and hours chasing their tales trying to get to the bottom of it! And would you want to pay them £50 an hour, when it may be things you can do yourself!?
You can be sure that they would not have let the car out in a dangerous state, just mapped it within the parameters they could.

I would echo their advice, get as much back to stock as you can, borrow odds and ends off cars you know are working if need be.

I know experience of these guys that each map is custom to what a car will take and do. This is why I said that once you have found the problem, you'd probably need to back there to be optimised to get the best otu of it, yes it may be better once whatever fault there is is fixed, but it wont be mapped specific to that car.

If you have found some extra power by junking the FMIC, how do you know this is not the problem cured now? But to be on the safe side, try a few more things.

Oh and the DV problems with psiton DVs are notorious now. A new stokc latest version TT one is worth trying, at least if the diaphram ones fail, its clear and "safe".

Put stock Airbox back on, make sure the MAF has its screen in place, lose the piston DV and maybe check you have the right N75 valve fitted for your motor.
As a "may as well whilst you are at it!" I would also put a new green top coolant sensor in there, stick some new (cheap!) NGK BKR7E copper plugs in, some fresh optimax and even worth cleaning the Inlet air temp sensor in the manifold, with electrical contact cleaner.

You never answered as to what fuel your running. It can make at least 30hp difference if you have some rubbish in there.

PS your exhaust sounds very small diameter also. Do you have your stock one to try on it? What "sport cat" are you running......There are some real CRAP sport cats out there, the stock S3 ones pretty much are as good as you need on a K04 turbo, so anything else with this turbo is a complete waste of time, cash and often hurts power performace and pocket!

Have you done these mods yourself, or did the car come with them? If you have done them yourself, I have to ask what we are all thinking.....why on earth did you not just do the remap as the FIRST thing..! !Then, on a stock car, any problems it showed would have been easier to fix!

 

[Defratos]

Hang on! You said Mike ran it on the rollers for 2.5hours before telling you there was some problem as standard it was weak. Sounds like he checked a fair bit to be fair!
It takes about 40 minutes to prep an s3 for the jabba rollers, what with removal of the rear shafts and fitting the lamda probe.

I know experience of these guys that each map is custom to what a car will take and do. This is why I said that once you have found the problem, you'd probably need to back there to be optimised to get the best otu of it, yes it may be better once whatever fault there is is fixed, but it wont be mapped specific to that car.

If you have found some extra power by junking the FMIC, how do you know this is not the problem cured now?

Oh and the DV problems with psiton DVs are notorious now. A new stokc latest version TT one is worth trying, at least if the diaphram ones fail, its clear and "safe".

Put stock Airbox back on, make sure the MAF has its screen in place, lose the piston DV and maybe check you have the right N75 valve fitted for your motor.
As a "may as well whilst you are at it!" I would also put a new green top coolant sensor in there, stick some new (cheap!) NGK BKR7E copper plugs in, some fresh optimax and even worth cleaning the Inlet air temp sensor in the manifold, with electrical contact cleaner.

You never answered as to what fuel your running. It can make at least 30hp difference if you have some rubbish in there.

PS your exhaust sounds very small diameter also. Do you have your stock one to try on it?

Thanks for the feedback mate. Yes Mike had the car on the rollers for 2 and a half hours, and he seemed to have checked a fair bit. He told me everything he's checked seems to be fine, and could only point it down to the FMIC. The reason I'm having suspicions its not the FMIC is because I thought I'd see much greater gains. Would remapping it again with the OEM fmic give me the extra 20-30hp?

As for the DV I haven't tried the new TT one, is it for the 2.0T? If you've got the part number it'll be worth a check up.

As for the air filter, I know many people say stick with the OEM one, but I've just got a standard K&N Cone filter (with no extensions), just one cold air feed, and it seems to be doing fine (slightly more lag at low end, but just slightly) & Mike reckoned it was ok.

My MAF is stock and pretty much new (only 3 months old) it's got the screen on, and I cleaned it before going to Jabba.

Ok I don't know much about the N75, I don't know which model I have or should have or which one I should get so any help in this area would be nice.:icon_thumright:

I replaced the coolant sensor to the new green one 2 days before the remap, But I did have a problem of breaking the clip that holds it in place and had to drive for 10min on near no coolant (car was smoking and lights were going nuts), managed to get to audi at the end. This was one day before the remap, I made sure I filled it up with engine coolant but I put in a bit too much coolant and I have to add more water to get the mix right, but I don't know how to flush the system to fill it up with some new coolant with the correct water/coolant mixture. Would this have made the car weaker than it is because it was one day before the remap?

Spark plugs just got replaced a few months back at audi.

Where is the inlet air Temp sensor? I know you said in the manifold but do you have a pic?

I did mention the fuelling I always run it on BT Ultimate octane (I know optimax is better)

I have the stock Exhaut but to be honest I'm happier with the one I have. I know a friend who has the same exhaust set up and his car's running around 260hp so I don't think it's the exhaust at fault. Thanks for the list of things to check, if you can just give me some extra info on the N75 and where the inlet air temp sensor is I'd really appreciate it

 

[simch]

Inlet air temp sensor is the black sensor just engine side of the throttle body in the mani. Take out the allen bolt, pull the thing carefully toward you, and spray ;ots of electrical cleaner on it, DONT touch the fillament! then replace it!

What sport cat is it? Is it single not a twin set up? What DPI or make is it? Thsi could easily be your problem!!

PS, you will proabbaly be losing 5-10hp on BP compared to Optoimax.

 

[Defratos]

Inlet air temp sensor is the black sensor just engine side of the throttle body in the mani. Take out the allen bolt, pull the thing carefully toward you, and spray ;ots of electrical cleaner on it, DONT touch the fillament! then replace it!

What sport cat is it? Is it single not a twin set up? What DPI or make is it? Thsi could easily be your problem!!

PS, you will proabbaly be losing 5-10hp on BP compared to Optoimax.

Is the temp sensor the thing circled in red? and by electrical cleaner I'm guessing Isoprpolyine s/p would be ok right?

and I've got the standard sport cat and downpipe which is a twin setup, all I've changed is the section after the sport cat leading towards the back box, both back box and post sportcat pipework are from MIJ performance. I'll try Optimax soon and see what figures I get.

 

[simch]

That is the thing I mean, yes.

So you have the stnadard twin carts then? If so and they are in good nick, they should be fine. But worth an MOT checks to check they are ok..

 

[Defratos]

not sure if they're 100% fine but last time I did an mot (Jan this year) they were fine. Might get another check done. and when cleaning the temp sensor can I dip the unit in the isopropalyine solution?

 

[j4jon]

Is it not possible that because you are running the K&N and not the standard air box that you are pulling in warm air from in the engine bay?
I'm not sure this would make a huge difference but yuo never know.
I just picked up my BAM S3 yesterday so I'll try and get a run in with VAGCOM soon to get some stats of boost.

 

[shineydave]

to perform a pressure test you need a bit of kit like this. it goes into the end of the accordian hose from the MAF. you also need to plug the crankcase ventillation.

i use a car tyre inflated to 50psi as a pressure source, once you have the system pressurised it's fairly simple to find any boost leaks by listening and feeling for leaking air. the system should hold pressure for around 15 seconds before it starts to leak past the piston rings. you need to pressurise it to no more than 1.5 bar although it works very well around 1.0bar

 

[Defratos]

I doubt it, my K&N is in an inclosed capusle, which is fed by air from the oem air feed (side vent) The temp it picks up are similar to the oem ones, I doubt it'll be causing that much of a problem

 

[Defratos]

to perform a pressure test you need a bit of kit like this. it goes into the end of the accordian hose from the MAF. you also need to plug the crankcase ventillation.

i use a car tyre inflated to 50psi as a pressure source, once you have the system pressurised it's fairly simple to find any boost leaks by listening and feeling for leaking air. the system should hold pressure for around 15 seconds before it starts to leak past the piston rings. you need to pressurise it to no more than 1.5 bar although it works very well around 1.0bar

Wow this is some serious Kit. Ok a few questions:

1) How much is this kit and where can I get one from?

2) Where exactly is the accordian hose from the MAF? I'm guessing it's one of the pipes connected to the TIP?

3) How do you pressure up the system? I mean what do you use to contain the pressrised air? it isn't that bit white foam looking thing is it?

4) I'm guessing this kit runs high pressure throught the system to find the leak, so it's simply a case of setting the PSI to 1.0-1.5bar and listening and feeling for a leak?

 

[shineydave]

you can buy the parts from AWE Tuning (http://www.awe-tuning.com/pages/shared/part_detail.cfm?PMaI=1&PMoI=4&PEI=6&PP=s4_27t_drivetrain.cfm&PPT=Drivetrain&IL=pressure%20tester) but i made my own from a piece of nylon bar, they're not expensive, 20 quid or so.

the accordian hose is the one that comes from the maf down to the turbo, it's about 3" in diameter

the AWE version uses a compressor to pressurise the system but obviously you need a compressor, a tyre inflator can't flow the volume of air required. i use the spare tyre and attach it using a length of nylon pipe with a tyre valve on each end, you can buy them from Halfords for a couple of quid, i also put a one way valve in the line to stop pressure leaking back.

yup, that's exactly right, you'll be able to hear a small amount of air leaking down the bores but the sort of leak you're looking for will be pretty obvious. it works best with a warm engine as everything has expanded and sealed properly

 

[Ess_Three]

Jabba don't have a 4wd dyno?
Did I read that right...what's with the revoving the rear drive shafts?

If that's the case, comparisons with other dynos are irrelevant as they run 4WD, and measure drive at all 4 wheels as well as losses through all 4 wheels.

Running an S3 in 2wd is pointless...it tells you nothing of value.


Did I pick that up right?

 

[god_thats_quick]

I was just wondering the same... I'm pretty surprised to be honest, and can't think that running with the rear drive shafts disconnected is that great for the haldex as it'd have thought it'd confuse the **** out of it.

 

[Defratos]

Who said anything about Jabba not dynoing the car with 4wd rollers? I never said that did I? Cause they did put it up on 4wd rollers when the remap was done. Still can't find where that was said

 

[Ess_Three]

Who said anything about Jabba not dynoing the car with 4wd rollers? I never said that did I? Cause they did put it up on 4wd rollers when the remap was done. Still can't find where that was said

You didn't...

But simch did.

It takes about 40 minutes to prep an s3 for the jabba rollers, what with removal of the rear shafts and fitting the lamda probe.

So, is it run 4wd or 2wd?

Just because it's on 4 wheel rollers..doesn't mean it was run in 4wd..some tuners can't cope with the Haldex switching power so run it in 2wd to make readings easier.

 

[Defratos]

I would of thought it was mapped on 4wd, When one of the guys was explainng the dyno graph he was saying something about the haldex jumping all over trying to put the power down (explaining one of the lines on the graph) so I guess it was mapped 4wd, although Smich might know something I don't

 

[SirToad]

dude...although you had problems with the car, was Jabba a good place to get it remapped, i'm thinking of getting mine done there?

 

[Defratos]

dude...although you had problems with the car, was Jabba a good place to get it remapped, i'm thinking of getting mine done there?

I would personally say Yes, I feel they tried their best and I've heard a lot of good things from others. The only thing is you can't record or see the car while its on the rollers other than that I'm happy with the quality of service I got, so go for it and hope you don't have any problems like me

 

[shineydave]

i would say no, they've not performed a pressure check to confirm the absence of boost leaks, doesn't appear they've scanned it for faults, they decided the car wasn't running right, couldn't identify the fault but mapped it anyway. in my humble opinion that's not the sort of service i'd be happy to pay for no matter how polite and courtious they are.

if they couldn't get somewhere near the standard figures before mapping they shouldn't have gone any further.

 

[sitrials]

jabba said to me they would have to remove the rear drive shafts to do a power run on my car because simply taking the fuse out doesn't work and they wanted to charge me for it! and i did ask if they had a 4wd dyno and they said NO!

 

[Defratos]

Hummm, so not a 4wd dyno, so what differrenc would this make to my dyno figures? Would it be closer to figures in Vag-com?

 

[Defratos]

i would say no, they've not performed a pressure check to confirm the absence of boost leaks, doesn't appear they've scanned it for faults, they decided the car wasn't running right, couldn't identify the fault but mapped it anyway. in my humble opinion that's not the sort of service i'd be happy to pay for no matter how polite and courtious they are.

if they couldn't get somewhere near the standard figures before mapping they shouldn't have gone any further.

I wasn't happy with the 223hp either, but to be honest I didn't know all thise stuff about boost leaks and other faults that might come up, I just took the advice of Mike and changed the FMIC back to standard.

 

[shineydave]

i wouldn't be happy either, have you looked at the AWE kit for pressure testing yet? you can make it yourself pretty easily, it's basically just a big bung with an adapter to hook up to a pressure source so anything that will fill the accordian hose will do.

 

[Defratos]

I'll be looking into the AWE kit soon, might get it by next month (when the pay check arrives) and I'll see how that goes. Also which N75 should I have or get?

 

[simch]

Taking the rear shafts out just means the wheels dont turn, the haldex works as normal, its just the inboard ends that rotate and it dies not move the wheels around.
Their dyno is 2wd and power is measured at the front wheels, with adjustments made to give a flywheel figure (clutch dipping), like any other 2wd rollers.
All it means is that you may lose a few hp that are transfered through the rear diff, but as there would be no load on it, it would be only a few hp.

At the end of the day they have been about 10 years and made some really really quick cars, so they must have some idea!

 

[god_thats_quick]

I'm not doubting that, but that means there figures will always be wrong for 4WD cars, you can't dyno a car and get accurate results if you're not using all the drivetrain.

Also I can't think it'll do the cars much good as the haldex uses the wheel speeds and won't be getting the right data if the drive shafts are removed although it's probably okay for a short time there's no way my car will be going there.

Infact I think I'd rather have my car either mapped on the road, or mapped on a 4WD rolling road that works with the haldex which quite a few don't.

 

[jcb]

I'm not doubting that, but that means there figures will always be wrong for 4WD cars, you can't dyno a car and get accurate results if you're not using all the drivetrain.

Dyno figures of "crank" power are a myth anyway, its a guess at best, affected by something as simple as tyre pressure.
The only comparison to make is wheel HP and on the same recently calibrated roller within a reasonable space of time.
Very few tuners have 4wd dynos.
If they get figures for 2wd they are still accurate as there is no load going through the rear diff/axles. I agree the haldex system may be a little confused, but that won;t affect power readings as the haldex doesn't do anything to affect engine power, timing or clutch.



my 2P.
only thing that can be affecting power to that degree:
boost pressure - leaks in system, wastegate leak, N75valve,
timing - car is doing something to you timing due to the map/maps/issues - you need a timing log
flow - your FMIC won't do that much, the lag you might get from a monster wouldn't rob power like you are describing, the restriction from the OEM one is much more of a killer as it raises inlet temps. Your exhaust does seem a little small. I have a 2" pipe on my Mk2 Gti 8v!

have you done a compression test on the engine itself?

 

[Defratos]

I'm not doubting that, but that means there figures will always be wrong for 4WD cars, you can't dyno a car and get accurate results if you're not using all the drivetrain.

Also I can't think it'll do the cars much good as the haldex uses the wheel speeds and won't be getting the right data if the drive shafts are removed although it's probably okay for a short time there's no way my car will be going there.

Infact I think I'd rather have my car either mapped on the road, or mapped on a 4WD rolling road that works with the haldex which quite a few don't.

Fair enough mate, I wasn't aware of the fact they they don't have a 4wd rolling road. Does anyone know who has a 4wd rolling road? Might just go and get my car dynoed to see what figures it's giving.

 

[god_thats_quick]

Dyno figures of "crank" power are a myth anyway, its a guess at best, affected by something as simple as tyre pressure.
The only comparison to make is wheel HP and on the same recently calibrated roller within a reasonable space of time.
Very few tuners have 4wd dynos.
If they get figures for 2wd they are still accurate as there is no load going through the rear diff/axles. I agree the haldex system may be a little confused, but that won;t affect power readings as the haldex doesn't do anything to affect engine power, timing or clutch.

I agree, when talking about tuners the most important thing is the difference eg. before and after plots on the same dyno in the same conditions then you get how much you've gained or not.

Flywheel figures are always very dependant on dyno settings etc. but can be very accurate if done right. In this case even the at the wheels figures will be wrong, which means the only useful thing they can do is as per the above the before / after comparison as the rest is meaninless in my opinion.

 

[god_thats_quick]

Defratos, it's even more difficult that just finding someone with a 4WD dyno. You need to check with them that they can run Haldex equiped cars without buggering about, if anyone with a dyno dynamics dyno says they can I'd be very wary as I have it on good authority it won't work right.

If somewhere has a MAHA rolling road like star they should be able to run haldex equiped cars without any problems.

 

[Ess_Three]

Dyno figures of "crank" power are a myth anyway, its a guess at best, affected by something as simple as tyre pressure.

This is true...
In the same way as tightness of the tie down straps, tyre width, diff type, camber and castor can affect it....
BUT: If the spec of the car remains constant, and the dyno measures coastdown, you can get a reasonably accurate calculation of crank power, as the losses will be the same.

A true 4WD dyno can also be used to diagnose other problems that are sapping power, such as a sticking brake calliper or knackered wheel bearing, as you will see higher than expected losses.

Some Rolling roads I use insist on setting tyre pressures to a datum value prior to the power runs, to remove this aspect of possible error.

The only comparison to make is wheel HP and on the same recently calibrated roller within a reasonable space of time.

True...
But I'd still argue a 4WD car should be run in 4WD mode to try to get as close as possible to the 'correct' power output.

If an S3 is run FWD and makes 200BHP@wheels, but has a Haldex problem, sticking rear calliper and worn wheel bearing, it may loose an additional 30-30BHP through the rear drivetrain, that you don't know about...meaning it only has 160-170 ATW through all driven wheels...nowhere like the 200 ATW the print out will show.

Very few tuners have 4wd dynos.

Really?
Not nowadays...

Even the NE of Scotland has 2 in a 15 mile radius (Wallace Performance in Aberdeen - Dastek - and JaPerformance in Ellon - Dyno Dynamics)...and Star Performance - MAHA - within 100 miles.
4WD dynos are more common than many think...so I can't see the point in running a 4WD car on a 2WD dyno when you will get a more accurate reading and more information on the car's health by using a 4WD dyno.

If they get figures for 2wd they are still accurate as there is no load going through the rear diff/axles. I agree the haldex system may be a little confused, but that won;t affect power readings as the haldex doesn't do anything to affect engine power, timing or clutch.

They aren't accurate.
You aren't taking into account the rear wheel bearing drag, the rear brake drag or the Haldex working under load....nor the drag off the rear wheels due to their weight or tyre width/pressure (and wheel weight, tyre width and pressure can all make noticable differences to the losses)



On topic:

flow - your FMIC won't do that much, the lag you might get from a monster wouldn't rob power like you are describing, the restriction from the OEM one is much more of a killer as it raises inlet temps.

I agree about the IC...a FMIC will add lag at worst, but should - on a dyno - give more power potential as the timing will not be getting pulled due to high inlet temperatures.

BTW,
The first stage APR map I had fitted to mine gave similar figures I seem to recall - under 240BHP and 250 ish lb-ft of torque....and my engine was healthy with no problems...as it went on to produce 275+/330+ after several maps had been tried.