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Thread: air filters...

  1. #1
    kiwi's Avatar
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    air filters...

    Hi,
    I'm thinking of getting an aftermarket podfilter for my 1.8t.
    I've had some good results with K&N filters with Japanese cars in the past but not sure how they will go with the a3...

    How much improvement to the response should I expect??
    Is it worth doing it all??
    Would appreciate a comment from anyone with podfilters on their cars..
    Cheers,
    Steve

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  3. #2
    kiwi's Avatar
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    And does anyone know how long it bloody takes to be able to post attachments??? I've been a member for few weeks and posted a few threads too but still not allowed to put photos up..:-(

  4. #3
    Prawn's Avatar
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    Very strange, usually you only need 2 posts before you can post pics!

    As for ‘podfilters’, do you mean cone filters?

    Basically…….. the deal is, the standard air box is fine, and doesn’t need changing at all really. You can smooth it out if you want to, and run a cold air feed into it instead of the standard restrictive Audi plastic snorkel. But generally, the standard box is fine.

    Cone filters are almost always oiled, and oil will damage the maf sensor.

    A cone filter straight onto the maf is the worst thing you can do, as the oiled filter will be right by the maf, so the oil is most likely to kill it. Also, due to very high under bonnet temps with the 1.8T engine, it will suck in hot air, and actually lose power.

    Then you have cold air induction kits. These route a 3’’ pipe from the maf, down the inner wing around the battery, then down into the front bumper, and mount the filter on the end, inside the bumper, behind the lower grilles, this gives a cold air feed, and takes the source away from the under bonnet heat, which is great. The problem with a CAI is they almost always use oiled filters, and can still cause MAF issues, especially on newer cars (the older AGU engines seem unaffected!)

    You could of course get a cheap CAI from ebay (a bit of 3’’ pipe is pretty simple, cheap ones are fine) and then invest in an apexi dry cone filter. Ive been running a CAI with an oiled filter for a year now without issue, but when I have my car remapped with a ko3S in a few weeks, ill be putting my apexi dry filter on, as I don’t want to risk having maf problems when the car is flowing a lot more air with the new turbo.

    So, if you want to keep it quiet, keep the standard air box and smooth it out.

    If you like a bit of noise, and a fairly loud DV sound on backing off, get a CAI and a dry cone filter.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

    But I know nothing so ignore me.

  5. #4
    james0808's Avatar
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    Is there any evidence that oil from a cone filter will actually damage the maf?

  6. #5
    A3_Turbo's Avatar
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    Im running a BMC CDA With 3inch Cold air feed and its been fine so far! Touch wood...
    A3 1.8TS
    K03S,Pro Alloy FMIC, Neuspeed TIP, Forge 007P,Jabba Stage 2, BMC CDA, Turbo Back Miltek,H&R Cup Kit,H&R Arb's,18" Cup 3's Wrapped in Parada Spec 2's, Facelifted, 10k Hids, Dewipered, Debadged,S3 Interior, S3 Rear bumper, S4 Front bumper, Brembo's, Momo Team, LCR Splitter.

  7. #6
    Prawn's Avatar
    My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by james0808
    Is there any evidence that oil from a cone filter will actually damage the maf?
    well, the number of people who have fitted an oiled cone filter, and found they had instant running problems, misfires, engine check lights, and then cleaned the maf and refitted standard and all has been fine. that suggests it. and its obvious really, the way the maf reads airflow across it, anything in that air, like oil particles, will effect its calibration!
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

    But I know nothing so ignore me.

  8. #7
    james0808's Avatar
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    Well, what about all the people who have a totally standard car and a buggered maf,what has caused them to break.
    As has been said loads and loads of times,maf's are a very fragile(unreliable) component,which manufacturers and sellers must be making a packet selling replacements to the likes of us,so why would they make them any better and stop making all that dosh?
    Still didnt see any evidence,all i see is this myth again.
    Have a look at this and the videos,it might be slightly biased but is interesting.
    http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm

 

 

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