Monster MotorsportChris Nott
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  1. #1
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    S3 Frount mount intercooler

    I've just bought this FMIC for my S3,going to have a go the DIY way !!!
    Any one know what like this intercooler is before I go fitting,assuming by the sizes stated,this will flow enough air to do away with both side mount coolers.
    Cheershttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FRONT-MOUNT-TU...QQcmdZViewItem

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  3. #2
    Slipping at 3.5Krpm

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    It looks EXACTLY like the core I have just bought!!!

    Where will you get your piping?
    <Insert meaningless geeky specs here>

  4. #3
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    To be honest I havn't looked into getting piping yet,I had a quick look through e-bay and I've noticed companies selling silicone piping and bends.Here is a link for one that I came across.http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-5-TURBO-INTE...QQcmdZViewItem


    Am I right in saying that the above intercooler will flow enough air to do away with both side mounts and drop charge temps on my S3,I intend on running a little more boost,along the lines of what Ess_Three was running !!!

  5. #4
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    There are cores, and there are cores. It'll be interesting to see what the pressure drop is across that.

  6. #5
    Slipping at 3.5Krpm

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    Its well documented actually for that core, pressure drop is approx 0.5-1psi.

    Look on the thread I posted about the FMIC, thats the same core (Godspeed, X02 etc use that core) and graphs etc are on the VWVortex link I also posted.
    <Insert meaningless geeky specs here>

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_Bayern
    Its well documented actually for that core, pressure drop is approx 0.5-1psi.

    Look on the thread I posted about the FMIC, thats the same core (Godspeed, X02 etc use that core) and graphs etc are on the VWVortex link I also posted.
    Wow, then for the money that is amazing!

  8. #7
    Slipping at 3.5Krpm

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    Pipework makes a difference obviously, the pipework I currently have is what was used for the testing on the Vortex thread. However, that will only fit an A3 due to throttle body location.
    <Insert meaningless geeky specs here>

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3_Jack
    Am I right in saying that the above intercooler will flow enough air to do away with both side mounts and drop charge temps on my S3,I intend on running a little more boost,along the lines of what Ess_Three was running !!!
    You may find it's easier to run it along with the drivers side SMIC as it simplifies the piping.

    Mount the core with the in/out at the bottom, take a 45 degree hose from the outlet of the standard SMIC via a joining piece, then via another joining piece into a 90 degree hose and into the core.
    On the outlet side take a 90 degree hose from the core and point it upwards, add a length of piping, then another 90 degree hose onto the standard hard pipework upstream of the TB.

    You can't have too much by way if ICs!

    Even if you get a shade more pressure drop accross, cranking the boost up will allow you to make more power/torque, to compensate for the slight addition in pressure drop.


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  10. #9
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    Ess_Three,
    When you refer to cranking the boost up,I assume I can't get away with shortening the actuator rod to give me more boost as I will then likely be running lean ??? Will I have to go for another remap and if so would it have to be a custom jobbie to get the torque I desire,Car is already mapped but compared to the figures you were quoting mines is pretty pi$$ poor !!!!
    Or could I change the n75,apparantly that gives more boost ???
    Regarding the topic of the intercooler,I'm going to fit that this weekend,when you mention jointing piece,Do you mean a section of pipe to connect the hoses too ??
    Think I will indeed run the side mount as you stated above,if it keeps the pipework more managable that sounds good to me !!
    Last edited by S3_Jack; 17th July 2007 at 21:40. Reason: More questions

  11. #10
    Ess_Three's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3_Jack
    Ess_Three,
    When you refer to cranking the boost up,I assume I can't get away with shortening the actuator rod to give me more boost as I will then likely be running lean ???
    You could...it's not the best way, but it can be done.


    Will I have to go for another remap and if so would it have to be a custom jobbie to get the torque I desire,Car is already mapped but compared to the figures you were quoting mines is pretty pi$$ poor !!!!
    That would be the best way...but bear in mind that the standard MAP sensor only reads to 2788mb (or around there anyway...and that reads absolute pressure not boost) before it saturates and can give limp...so to run any more boost than you may need to look at the readings from the MAP...or add a MAP clamp.


    Or could I change the n75,apparantly that gives more boost ???
    Yes, it will. but it may also give limp mode.
    You'll need to try it to see...if your car has only modest peak boost, you should be OK.
    Ideally, check in on a dyno before and after fitting the N75 and monitor EGT, mixture and injector 'on' time. Again, on a modest map you should be OK...but best to be sure.

    You can try either a J of an H.
    The H was more peaky on mine...but the J more drivable.


    Regarding the topic of the intercooler,I'm going to fit that this weekend,when you mention jointing piece,Do you mean a section of pipe to connect the hoses too ??
    Yeah, a section of alloy tubing with swaged ends to join two hoses together.
    If you want to go big boost, I'd suggest Mikanor clamps too...jubilee clips will loosen and blow off. The Mikanor clamps won't.


    Think I will indeed run the side mount as you stated above,if it keeps the pipework more managable that sounds good to me !!
    You'll get a sort of lead-lag effect if you run both...the SMIC will take some of the sting out of the very hot air, leaving the FMIC to really cool it down...win, win.


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  12. #11
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    Just curious as to what a map clamp is ???
    Where would you say is the best place for a custom map to get the desired figures,I live in Fife 30 mins from the Forth Bridge.
    Thanks again for your input

  13. #12
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    A MAP clamp is a piece of electronics that lets the MAP signal pass through right up to a pre-determined point before it clamps the signal and prevents the signal to the ECU going too high.

    It's not ideal as it doesn't give a true representation of the boost pressure over a certain point...but it seems to be able to be used to prevent limp mode....although you have to be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that all is well with your engine at those high boost levels before you rely on one, because you are removing a safety limit.

    As to where to get one...I had an electronics guru mate build one..
    I think some of the Japanese tuners make one that you could try adapting.


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