S3_Jack said:
Ess_Three,
When you refer to cranking the boost up,I assume I can't get away with shortening the actuator rod to give me more boost as I will then likely be running lean ???
You could...it's not the best way, but it can be done.
Will I have to go for another remap and if so would it have to be a custom jobbie to get the torque I desire,Car is already mapped but compared to the figures you were quoting mines is pretty pi$$ poor !!!!
That would be the best way...but bear in mind that the standard MAP sensor only reads to 2788mb (or around there anyway...and that reads absolute pressure not boost) before it saturates and can give limp...so to run any more boost than you may need to look at the readings from the MAP...or add a MAP clamp.
Or could I change the n75,apparantly that gives more boost ???
Yes, it will. but it may also give limp mode.
You'll need to try it to see...if your car has only modest peak boost, you should be OK.
Ideally, check in on a dyno before and after fitting the N75 and monitor EGT, mixture and injector 'on' time. Again, on a modest map you should be OK...but best to be sure.
You can try either a J of an H.
The H was more peaky on mine...but the J more drivable.
Regarding the topic of the intercooler,I'm going to fit that this weekend,when you mention jointing piece,Do you mean a section of pipe to connect the hoses too ??
Yeah, a section of alloy tubing with swaged ends to join two hoses together.
If you want to go big boost, I'd suggest Mikanor clamps too...jubilee clips will loosen and blow off. The Mikanor clamps won't.
Think I will indeed run the side mount as you stated above,if it keeps the pipework more managable that sounds good to me !!
You'll get a sort of lead-lag effect if you run both...the SMIC will take some of the sting out of the very hot air, leaving the FMIC to really cool it down...win, win.