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  1. #1
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    Buying 1.8t whats wrong with em....

    right the mrs is looking for a A3 1.8t..
    She is looking at the early models.. spending about Ł3k
    I understand they should have a belt change about 70k and also they should have a replacement non-audi metal inpeller type water pump.

    what other things shout i look out for...?
    any models to look out for..?


    thanks
    guys.
    Mark

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  3. #2
    rodenal's Avatar
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    For a 3k car id prob look for somethin wiht around 100k, thats had lots of things replaced i.e shocks/springs - clutch - exhaust possibly etc because as cars get to about that age and mileage those are all the things that inevitably need to be done, once they're changed tho they're gonna last for ages again. Also check the steering doesnt make a click as u go from lock to lock as a new column is £300.00 from audi

    Other than that best thing to go on is if u like the look of the bloke/woman who's selling it and its general condition.
    *Gone* 1997 A3 1.6 facelift headlights, 16"1.8t Alloys, full rear tints. 110k

    You built a time machine.........out of a delorean!?!?!

  4. #3
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    yeah i understand the general rules for buying a car....
    Just wanted to know any specific faults with this car really!

    thanks for the info on the rack though.... have to look for that.

    mark

  5. #4
    Slipping at 3.5Krpm

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    Here's something I wrote for a friend when they were considering buying an A3:

    Most importantly run an HPI check on the car to see if it has any
    outstanding finance.

    You can also do a quick check on the registered model and number of
    previous owners here:

    http://www.rac.co.uk/web/vehiclechecks/dvla_lookup/

    Interior:

    Check all electrics, mirror adjusters, electric window switches, check
    the aircon works (takes a while to get going) look at the MFA (press
    the bottom of the switch on the end of the right hand stalk until you
    see MPG Ø and that is average MPG).

    Check the alarm, it may or may not beep when you press the lock button.
    Check seat adjusters, there is little storage areas under the seats,
    the passenger one should have the first aid kit in it.

    All internal electrics sould work, check heated seats, air
    conditioning (switch from lo to hi) and the readout on the dash should
    have no lines running through it.

    In the boot on the left hand side there is a handle, pull this and the
    side comes away, behind this should be the Audi Sub in models with the
    uprated stereo.

    Underneath the boot carpet should be spare wheel and loads of tools
    inside the wheel. In a recess at the closest to you side of the boot
    should be a red box with warning triangle.

    Check how many keys come with it, new they came with two remote keys,
    and a thin plastic valet key. A new spare key from Audi is £150 so its
    a good bartering tool.

    Central locking should operate quickly with no delay after pressing
    the button, and if you lock the doors with the button and keep it
    pressed, the windows should close.

    Newer cars will also have a cup holder mounted in the centre console.

    Most audi's had a stereo which was a radio cassette, enhancements
    included CD changer and Bose speakers. Sonata, Symphony and Concert
    were the spec levels.

    Seats and steering wheel should not show signs of excessive wear.


    Exterior:

    From 2000-2002 the cars underwent a facelift, changes included
    removing the locks on door handles, headlight units, rear lights and
    air conditioning unit.

    Check for rust on the bottom of the doors, and also along the rain
    guttering on the roof.

    Check for deep scratches, dents and chips, these are expensive to fix
    and hard to buff out as Audi paint is one of the hardest paint
    compounds. On the plus side, light scratches buff out very easily.

    Ensure all the lights work, and do not flicker, its common for one or
    two LED's in the rear high level brake light to not work.

    Check the rear wiper and wash, these often rust and cost about £70 to replace.


    Engine:

    All Audis usually have a full service history up to at least 100K Miles.

    If mileage is 60-80K check the cambelt has been changed, this is a
    must as its a £600 job. If the cambelt has been changed, the water
    pump should have been changed at the same point, preferably with one
    with a metal impellor. If the cambelt hasn't been changed, walk away.

    When switching on the engine from cold there should be no blue or
    white smoke and the car should idle normally.
    Check the idle, it should hover around 900-1000rpm.

    Check receipts for suspension, this generally needs replacing, ideally
    after 70-90K miles.

    No oil should be visible on the engine block, and oil levels on the
    dipstick should be within the standard marks.

    When turning on full lock and turning slowly, there shouldn't be any
    creaks or groans.

    Check the rear axle bushes, and the front wisbones and bushes for
    wear, also take careful note of the Anti roll bar and bushings, this
    tends to become worn and then rust.

    Check brake pads and discs, the discs should not have a lip around the
    edge as this indicates excessive wear.

    Coolant should be pink and be on the max mark.

    Oil filter should be clearly visible and black or bright orange, check
    brand on oil filter if not a standard colour, this could be indicitive
    of poor servincing and may mean correct oil was not used. (Oil should
    be fully synthetic regardless of age, 0-30 or 5-40W)

    After a 5 minute normal test drive getting used to it, drive it
    quickly and brake hard and check everything stays in place, nothing
    smokes and the coolant and oil temps stay in normal.

    Other than the above, normal new car buying things should be taken
    into consideration, like is the V5 registered in their name, is the
    car clean and well maintained, how many previous owners etc, why is
    the person selling, how long have they had it.
    <Insert meaningless geeky specs here>

  6. #5
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    nice !
    good little write up there mate....
    They should make that a sticky......???


    mark

  7. #6
    Dennis Moeller's Avatar
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    What a write up. Fantastic. I looked for some of those things when I bought my A3, but this really adds everything up!

    Nice
    My old car.. Still miss the lil rocket :-)

    Remapped Stage II - Forge FMIC - Dahlb�ck Intake - K&N - DieselGeek ShortShift - Phenolic - Powerflex Dogbone - Rial Daytona Race 8.5x18" ET30 - Forge Tiebars - Bilstein B8 - H&R 25mm - R32 rear ARB - H&R 20mm Spacers - EBC Discs - Red Stuff pads
    ______________________________________________
    NO ONE EVER REALLY DIED

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_Bayern
    When switching on the engine from cold there should be no blue or
    white smoke and the car should idle normally.
    Check the idle, it should hover around 900-1000rpm.
    And if we see lots of white smoke ?
    What does it means ?

  9. #8
    Sam-K's Avatar
    Has a throbbing red german.

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    Head gasket gone i think if its white.. which means water is in the system

    Blue is piston rings i believe, well oil burning..?


    I like "Posh Fiats"

  10. #9
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    white can mean a number of things, like headgasket, cracked head or cracked turbo cooling jacket.

    blue just means that oil is being burnt for whatever reason... like work valve stems/seals, worn rings, cracked turbo, blocked breathers..
    Last edited by madvw; 3rd December 2007 at 12:54.


  11. #10
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    Thanks for the replies.

    A cracked head I can see it visually or not ?
    About the consuption of coolant, well I'm keeping my eye on it and the level is good and it doesn't get down.

    I performed a compression test and with the results of the test I don't suspect from a head gasket blown...

    I'm going to take my turbo appart and let's see what's is condition, I guess I'll have a lot of work during the next weekend

  12. #11
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    Dont let a genuine problem be confused with normal cat condensation though. Its worrying how much steam there is in these colder months, but it's perfectly normal - just as long as it goes away when the car has warmed up fully.


  13. #12
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    Thanks for the answers.

    Well I doubt about the cold wheather since it was a lot of smoke.
    It stopped after some time, when the engine warmed up.

    However there was some oil consumption, and that's why I'm concerned with it, that's the second time that the car does this . . . The first time the engine was fully warmed up and was really hot and start making all that some when it was hot!

    During the weekend I'm going to take the turbo out and I'm going to send it to repair, first I'll ask them to test it, then lets see what they have to say about it ...

 

 

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