car hesitating/holding back

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cawood

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having a few probs with the new motor (A3 1.8T quattro)

when you put your foot down, usually in 3rd n 4th gear at about 3/k rpm the car hesitates/holds back (feels like its going slower) then once you get past 4k rpm it clears and goes again

any ideas what this could be?

Air mass meter? heard they can cause probs?
 
collapsing hoses on the TIP?
...have you upgraded to samco or alike or are you using OEM?
 
I had, well have the same problem, i changed the standard dump valve and cleared the fault and it was boosting fine, but after a week or so same thing? So you could always try changing the dump valve first.
 
MCD - no its on std hose's, is there anyway to check the hoses? as i dont think i can check them to see if there collapsing at 80mph lol

k17rpo - i haven't got a dump valve on it

cheers for that claude, just had a read seems like a lot of people are suffering from this, although they dont really have an solution to the problem, are the leons n cupras engines the same as the audi?

anyone else shed any light on this?
 
I have a similar problem. I had the dump valve replaced last week as it was reporting a boost valve problem. The car seemed to be boosting a lot better at first, but its been hesitating on and off then i got a engine fault light come on the other day. Plugged in the vagcom and it said that it had detected a pressure drop between the turbo and the DV... or something along those lines. I reset the fault and the car seemed to be running really rough for about 5 minutes, the engine was knocking but then it sorted itself out.
 
cawood said:
cheers for that claude, just had a read seems like a lot of people are suffering from this, although they dont really have an solution to the problem, are the leons n cupras engines the same as the audi?

anyone else shed any light on this?
Click to expand...

very very similar engine.. the early Leon Cupra R had 210bhp and the later Cupra R had the 225 engine.
 
try your coilpacks, i had the same problem on mine. if not could be spark plugs, or MAF sensor.

buy one coilpack and fit it to cylinder 1 and test, and work your way along the 4 cylinders. that way you can eliminate each cylinder

hope this helps
 
k17rpo - i haven't got a dump valve on it


Mate they all have dump valves be it standard or aftermarket.
 
cawood said:
MCD - no its on std hose's, is there anyway to check the hoses? as i dont think i can check them to see if there collapsing at 80mph lol

no easy way of checking....used to happen to mine, so I just upgraded - no problems since.

you can insert a piece of piping as i recall to strengthen the pipe and stop it collapsing..there is a thread here somewhere???
Click to expand...
 
cawood said:
MCD - no its on std hose's, is there anyway to check the hoses? as i dont think i can check them to see if there collapsing at 80mph lol
Click to expand...

I bought a forge hose to see if its this happening, will try get it fitted next weekend to see if that helps, however I cannot see it being the problem, only because it happens in 4th 5th and 6th... all gears will be flowing the same amount of air, be it 3rd gear at 6k rpm, or 4th gear at 6k rpm
 
claudefrog said:
I bought a forge hose to see if its this happening, will try get it fitted next weekend to see if that helps, however I cannot see it being the problem, only because it happens in 4th 5th and 6th... all gears will be flowing the same amount of air, be it 3rd gear at 6k rpm, or 4th gear at 6k rpm
Click to expand...

...but it depends on how hard your PUSHING the car, or how hard its working.
Therefore 1/2/3 relies less on torque, and therefor doesnt suck as hard. 4/5/6 the car has to work harder and therefor requires more air. Hence hose collapses.......

........or so I understand it.

..................ready to be shot down if my basic explanation holds no water.

:)
 
Did anyone ever get to the bottom of this? I think I might have expereinced it on the way home today.

Was at about 5000 rpm in 3rd (possibly 4th) the car seemed to hold back then after about 1 second it picked up again. My initial thought was collapsong OEM TIP, but I'm no expert.

ICE
 
vanilla_ice said:
Did anyone ever get to the bottom of this? I think I might have expereinced it on the way home today.

Was at about 5000 rpm in 3rd (possibly 4th) the car seemed to hold back then after about 1 second it picked up again. My initial thought was collapsong OEM TIP, but I'm no expert.

ICE
Click to expand...

I'll put a grand on the MAF.

Mine does this, and I've had new sensors etc. Maf's about 14 months old though.
 
audi upgrades
You can try cleaning the current one, with some electrical contact cleaner, but it'll only put the problem off. Ultimate solution is a new MAF unfortunately.

I can predict the point at which it happens and will factor it in to my driving, overtaking for example!!
 
my cars doing this and its annoying the crap outta me.......and i still havent got to the bottom of what it could be, no vag errors mapped either. I'm keeping an eye to try and find out. It appears to have got worse since the car was in the garage for a new waterpump and timing belt, some people say its the temperature sensor but i dont see how
 
timing belt out a tooth? if it started right after the belt was done. I wopuld check this first of all, then i'd check the coolant temp sensor.
 
I had similar problems with my '03 S3. Read many many threads like this. I only noticed the hesitation (like a misfire) sometime after having a Revo remap. I tried the following
(no vag-com codes to assist either)
New MAF - seemed to be better for a few hours then back to normal
New DV's
New N75J - made car a bit more lively
New Temp Sensor
One thing I did notice was that disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU seemed to really liven the car up a bit for a while then it sort of fell back into its normal way of running - wonder if that was something to do with lambda's and the car learning and cutting back after a while.
At 40K it wasnt ready for service yet so I replaced the plugs myself (good instructions on here somewhere)
New plugs seemed to improve things but then the car seemed to get rougher then a coil pack went which needed replacing.

Now, i'd read all about coil packs and my model was supposed to have the non-faulty ones on but they did start to fail and only noticeable when it finally give up. Maybe worth a try replacing one or all. If I still had my 8L S3 with the problem I reckon it'd be worth replacing if you'd tried everything else (it'd done 40K). They're at revision R or something now.
 
RGS3, if disconnecting the battery helps to 'liven' the car up, could it not be a problem related with your throttle body?
 
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