Crunch going from 1st to second gear

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Vron

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Hi Guys,
I have read a few posts on this and my car crunches on changing from 1st to second. It happens if you change gear quickly. If you change slowly it is fine. My car has 48K on the clock. I have a warranty with the car, took it back and 2 x "mechanics" said they couldn't get the gears to crunch and it was me changing gear to quickly and not allowing "time" for the hydraulic clutch to work.

Are they fobbing me off? They have said they will put a new gearbox in if I want but I am worried I or rather they may make a minor (and often non existant) problem many times worse once they get their hands on fitting a new gearbox. I have another year on the warranty so I am thinking of leaving it to see, but my argument carries more weight if I dont leave it.

Advice appreciated.

Thanks
 
I had this on a my last 53 plate A4, exact same problem... With less miles prob 15kish.... Cant remember exactly.

They drained the oil and found metal particles and confirmed that I needed a new box...Cured.... Then after 2 months came back again... Just got used to it... Problem with the Synchromesh !
 
Common problem, i wouldnt worry too much about it
 
mine used to do this @ about 6k rpm & the problem has just seemed to of vanished i didnt however change my driving stype to allow the revs to drop slightly
 
Sounds like ******.... I had the same problem going from 2nd to 3rd at high revs. Amersham Audi played with the linkages (it was in for a blown ECU) and sorted the problem. The mechanic said it didn't always work but was worth a try. The gear change feels alot tighter since he did his thing......
 
It is a common problem, although you should find it's worse when the engine is cold?
 
Stewart said:
I actually find thats its better when its cold, definitely worse when hot.
Click to expand...

lol, hmmmm. Completely differant to how I and a lot of others found it... but then life would be dull if everyone was the same ;)

I found uprating the dogbone mount helped but generally it was only a problem when having to pull out of junctions quickly when cold.

I put it down to the high torque of the situation twisting something slightly out of alignment; hence the crunch.

If you look on the TT forum and a other VAG websites, some people have managed whole new gearboxes under warranty. Can't recall hearing of anyones gearbox failing due to this 'fault' though.
 
Tallpaul said:
lol, hmmmm. Completely differant to how I and a lot of others found it... but then life would be dull if everyone was the same ;)

I found uprating the dogbone mount helped but generally it was only a problem when having to pull out of junctions quickly when cold.

I put it down to the high torque of the situation twisting something slightly out of alignment; hence the crunch.

If you look on the TT forum and a other VAG websites, some people have managed whole new gearboxes under warranty. Can't recall hearing of anyones gearbox failing due to this 'fault' though.
Click to expand...

I'm going to be changing the slave cylinder and make sure it's properly bled...Also will have a go at the cables to see if it can be adjusted slightly..

I have the dog bone bushes and it made no difference...

What DOES seem to help (although only marginally) is a quick blip of the throttle (double de-clutch stylee) although its probably as long as waiting a moment before trying to engage.

Sounds horrendous when it crunches though :(
 
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Do you find that the problem is mainly at high-revs when changing gear?

My S3 had the 2nd-to-3rd gear crunch a long time ago, during its first year I think. It turned out to be the syncromesh. Its a very common problem on S3's and TT's, but tends to be only noticable when you are changing gear high up the rev range.

Push for the syncromeshs to be changed.

AL
 
AL_B said:
Do you find that the problem is mainly at high-revs when changing gear?

My S3 had the 2nd-to-3rd gear crunch a long time ago, during its first year I think. It turned out to be the syncromesh. Its a very common problem on S3's and TT's, but tends to be only noticable when you are changing gear high up the rev range.

Push for the syncromeshs to be changed.

AL
Click to expand...

But it's absolutely fine since having the Synchro's changed? How many miles since?
 
Same problem with my S3. 2nd to 3rd when really high revs. It hasnt happened for a while but it is always in the back of my mind when I change gear. Someone told me about the dog bone bushes and that it would help but I still havent got round to it it yet. Also would it be better to get a diesalgeek short shifter to help aid the horrendous crunch?? :scared2:
 
Blunteh said:
Sounds like ******.... I had the same problem going from 2nd to 3rd at high revs. Amersham Audi played with the linkages (it was in for a blown ECU) and sorted the problem. The mechanic said it didn't always work but was worth a try. The gear change feels alot tighter since he did his thing......
Click to expand...

The garage had it for a day a couple of weeks ago and "said" they adjusted the linkages and put more gearbox oil in - why do that if they couldn't demonstrate any fault? Anyway, I have booked it back in for 2 days next mon & tues. Thanks for the replies, maybe it is a characteristic of the box but I am staggered if this is so on a premium brand like Audi.
 
Vron said:
Hi Guys,
I have read a few posts on this and my car crunches on changing from 1st to second. It happens if you change gear quickly. If you change slowly it is fine. My car has 48K on the clock. I have a warranty with the car, took it back and 2 x "mechanics" said they couldn't get the gears to crunch and it was me changing gear to quickly and not allowing "time" for the hydraulic clutch to work.

Are they fobbing me off? They have said they will put a new gearbox in if I want but I am worried I or rather they may make a minor (and often non existant) problem many times worse once they get their hands on fitting a new gearbox. I have another year on the warranty so I am thinking of leaving it to see, but my argument carries more weight if I dont leave it.

Advice appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...

hiya mate had similar problem on my a3 so today ive fitted a powerflex dog bone bush and that has solved my problem. I dont know if that will help you.:)
 
Vron said:
The garage had it for a day a couple of weeks ago and "said" they adjusted the linkages and put more gearbox oil in - why do that if they couldn't demonstrate any fault? Anyway, I have booked it back in for 2 days next mon & tues. Thanks for the replies, maybe it is a characteristic of the box but I am staggered if this is so on a premium brand like Audi.
Click to expand...

I think it is a characteristic.. but one that's got a few possible cures..

I had a similar problem on a circa 2000 TT180, it could make me miss 3rd when overtaking (that frantic gear change).. leaving me on the wrong side of the road in neutral ! I was too soft on it, I should have just hammered the gearstick home (it was a company car)..
 
deedus said:
hiya mate had similar problem on my a3 so today ive fitted a powerflex dog bone bush and that has solved my problem. I dont know if that will help you.:)
Click to expand...


What is the cabin noise/vibration like after you fitted the dog bone bush?
 
My A3 TDi doesn't like 6th gear much - as I change from 5th to 6th there's definitely more resistance there than in the other gears :(
Same problem?
 
Sods law... as soon as I say my gears are sorted.. they start crunching from 2nd to 3rd again.

Thankfully it's due a service so I hope some new gearbox oil will help...
 
Blunteh said:
Sods law... as soon as I say my gears are sorted.. they start crunching from 2nd to 3rd again.
Click to expand...
Bummer! I know how you feel, since this topic reared it's head again it's really starting to bug me.

Blunteh said:
Thankfully it's due a service so I hope some new gearbox oil will help...
Click to expand...

Been there, done that, didn't help.
 
Been digging a bit more on this as i'd remembered seeing something about 're-aligning' the gear lever to smooth out changes...

This link describes an installation guide for a short shifter, but what it also includes is the procedure for correctly setting up the gear-shift to align perfectly with each gear. The instructions are a little hard going but there are diagrams and a couple of reads makes it relatively simple to follow.

I've read performing this has had positive results on improving the smoothness of gear change on the 6spd box:

The insustructions you want come under 'Adjustment' about half way down...

http://www.dieselgeek.com/sigmasixinstall.htm
 
I've had a problem with 2nd (doesn't want to play) when my car has been cold for the whole time I've owned it and it's not got any worse, I've found changing the dog-bone mount helped as did changing the oil for decent Motul stuff.

The gear change is pretty much perfect on my car now, except the first few times you go for 2nd when it's cold, it actually gets better the more spirited you drive it.
 
god_thats_quick said:
I've had a problem with 2nd (doesn't want to play) when my car has been cold for the whole time I've owned it and it's not got any worse, I've found changing the dog-bone mount helped as did changing the oil for decent Motul stuff.

The gear change is pretty much perfect on my car now, except the first few times you go for 2nd when it's cold, it actually gets better the more spirited you drive it.
Click to expand...

The 1st/2nd change from cold is the 'common' problem with the VAG 6spd 'box. In fact i had it on my Leon 6spd, but i also get it on my 5spd A3 (both 1.8Ts). It's this that makes me think it something more to do with the mounting of the gearbox itself and the general configuration of the 1.8T on the mkIV chassis. Worth noting that in both cases i also found the uprated EIP dogbone mount to help (i think we discussed this before?).

I'm not sure whether it's a seperate issue from problems with changing from 2nd to 3rd etc. As people have had boxes changed for dodgy synchromesh etc i'm inclined to think this thread is covering 2 seperate issues...

I offered the alignment idea as another potential solution, that has been commented as usefull.
 
Nice one Paul, thanks for the Dieselgeek link, i'll certainly be trying that!

Can't be bothered searching, what Motul oil should be used in the Gearbox? :)
 
I would tend to agree on the 2 issues...

I think the notchiness is down to mal-alignment of the linkages and the actual crunch going into gear is synchromesh issues.
 
Stewart said:
But it's absolutely fine since having the Synchro's changed? How many miles since?
Click to expand...

I can quote you mileage. I will have to have a look through my receipts and logs, but I can get you that.

Will post again soon.

AL
 
Hi Stewart,

Finally gone through my logs and receipts. My gearbox crunch was fixed (new syncros) at the back-end of September 2003 with 14960 miles on the clock. (Car was new in May 2002). Car is now up to 47000 miles, no crunch of gears, except when I have mis-timed the change of course. ;) But when the gearbox had the crunch problem, it would crunch every time at high revs 5000 rpm plus. It did it for the Audi tech too, which basically proved it wasn't me being a muppet.

There was only one problem since with the gearbox, not related to the gears though. When Audi had put the gearbox back in, they had not correctly aligned/fastened-down a power steering pipe properly. A metal section of this pipe eventually (2 years) rubbed a hole in the gearbox casing. Thus the casing needed replacing last year. Thankfully I had an extended warranty. ;)

AL
 
Thanks Al, I guess I would be looking at circa £350 from an independent gearbox specialist and thats without the labour of getting the box in and out :(
 
I have this prob too :( its like a ferriai you cant use second till the gear box is warmed up lol....
 
Petermunns said:
I have this prob too :( its like a ferriai you cant use second till the gear box is warmed up lol....
Click to expand...

me too :huh:
 
You guys have my sympathies, especially if you are out of warranty. Its such a common problem though. If you were to search, here, tt-forum.co.uk, audiworld, seat-cupra.net and maybe uk-mkivs.net, you will find lots of posts. Its a wide spread problem.

It may be worth chatting to Audi and asking nicely if they could meet you 1/2 way on the price of getting it fixed. Get some evidence first though, posts, threads etc.

Best of luck.

AL
 
I have this problem also it grinds when i change from 2nd to 3rd so is it down to syncro it has 54k on the clock. it only does it when accelerating hard and when it,s warmed up.thought i might try the brake/clutch fluid then gear linkidge maybe dogbone mount. im supperised it could be the syncro as i know friends who have put loads more power through there box and have had no trouble and some front wheel drive cars have about 200k on the with the same box on
 
Just doing a search on the forums and I was shocked to see all these other people with similar problems!

I have the same problem as the original poster- crunch/clunk noise between 1st and 2nd gear on my 2000 Audi A6 2.4 with 70K miles on the clock. Seems like it would be difficult (and expensive!) to properly diagnose.

If I lift the clutch slowly then things are ok else it seems like the whole engine moves!
 
i had the same problem with mine , usually crunches higher up the rev range , i changed the gear box oil and it sorted it
 
my gear change on my 2000 reg, 58000m S3 is notchy but not crunchy, seems im a minority here....... damn bet ive jinxed myself now.....:laugh:
 
These Audis seems to have many 'common/known faults'! On my A6 I've had the 'sticky windows' problem; 'wiper motor burn out' problem; the 'oil burnt smell in cabin' problem and now the 'clunky gearbox' problem! Are Audis really german built cars?!

I used to have a Jag XJ before my A6 and didn't have a single problem with it! Perhaps I've just been unlucky.
 
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