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  1. #1
    Secret Squirrel's Avatar
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    Haldex Oil and Filter Change - How To.

    Haldex Oil Change.

    Haldex Oil should be changed every 20K miles. You just need a tube of oil P/N G 052 175 A1, Tool VAG1628 (Silicone Gun, basically), and an allen key. So no special tools required really.

    The drain plug is located on the bottom of the Haldex unit, which is located just ahead of the rear diff. Use an allen key (I cant remember what size, maybe 5mm) to undo the drain plug and catch the fluid in a container. Only about 300ml of oil will come out, as you dont actually completely change all the oil, only part of it.

    To refill, put the tube of oil into your silicone gun, hold it upright and cut the tapered tip off of the tube, leaving the threaded part, and screw the nozzle onto the end. Here comes the tricky part. You have to refill the Haldex unit through the drain plug. Yes, honestly!
    Hold the trigger of the silicone gun in one hand, and the drain plug in the other (I normally do a practice run on refitting the drain plug first). Stick the nozzle of the Haldex tube into the drain plug, so that goes straight into the drain hole and fits tightly. Pull on the gun trigger repeatedly to squirt all of the oil into the Haldex unit. When you cant squeeze any more oil out of the tube and the tube is empty, quickly pull out the tube nozzle and put the drain plug back in, trying not to let too much oil run down your arm. Tighten up the drain plug and youre done.


    Haldex Filter Change.

    The Haldex filter should be changed every 40k miles. The filter is located on the RHS of the Haldex unit. You will need Tool T10066 for this job, the filter itself P/N 02D 525 558, and the filter sealing ring P/N N 903 445 01. The filter tool is a large ring spanner with a 90 bend in it.
    To change the filter, just poke the T10066 through to the filter head, and undo it. Make sure you remove the old sealing ring, and replace both filter and ring.

    The original filter body is made of metal, whereas the replacements are made of nylon. If youve had main dealer servicing since your car was new, dont be surprised if it still has the original metal Haldex filter. Like the fuel filter, these things tend to get left undone.

    HTH

    Last edited by Secret Squirrel; 1st April 2007 at 11:22. Reason: Picture Update

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  3. #2
    Numptie of the highest order

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    umm... that is great, but you are supposed to have the diff at a specific temp before you drop the old oil - I think it all comes out then.

    There's a specific procedure to carry out using either VAG-COM or VOS1051 (of the top of my head) to check the oil is at the right temp - that's why I've always left this to a specalist.

  4. #3
    Secret Squirrel's Avatar
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    Good point. I don't think the temperature is that critical, but a short steady drive is a good idea before the change, just so the oil is warm.

    I was informed that the oil capacity of the Haldex unit was greater than 300ml, but that is all that needs changing at each service.

    I don't like relying on 'specialists', IME I quite often wonder what it is they actually specialise in.

  5. #4
    Numptie of the highest order

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    Fair point (I think they all specalise in taking my money), I might post up a pic from ElsaWin later as this thread must be very helpful for people that want to give this a try.

  6. #5
    Secret Squirrel's Avatar
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    That would be good, thanks. I still haven't got a copy of ElsaWin for myself.

    It is also worth noting that you need to be able to get the rear of the car high enough to be able the get the VAG1628, and the G 052 175 A1 (gun and tube) vertically under the Haldex unit. So it is a job for a pit or ramp ideally.

  7. #6
    dultanur's Avatar
    all promises, no action :)

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    according to elsawin, the the haldex oil temperature should be between 20 and 40 degrees C. warming the oil can be achieved by running the engine.

    i will attempt to change the oil and filter tomorrow! wish me luck.
    2000 Black S3 (Sold, then totalled) - 2008 A3 1.4T Sport

  8. #7
    fingermouse's Avatar
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    by running the engine you meen going for a drive ?>??????
    red to red black to black blue to bits

  9. #8
    dultanur's Avatar
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    thats how i thought it should be, but it says "running the engine" ?!?
    anyway i'll be driving so it should be warm...
    2000 Black S3 (Sold, then totalled) - 2008 A3 1.4T Sport

  10. #9
    fingermouse's Avatar
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    going to say just running the engine wont warm up the rear diff. Weather looks nice so I might do mine today .
    red to red black to black blue to bits

  11. #10
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    OK, You should be able to check the haldex oil temperature with VAG-COM, and as said it should read between 20 and 40 degrees c. Temperature isnt essential, but it'll make sure most of the oil will freely flow out of the drain hole. If its too thick, it'll stop pouring.

    The oil replacement catridge apparently holds 250ml. Use the oil to coat both sides of the new oil seals before placing on the car.

    The drain plug needs tightening to 15Nm

    Theres another section too, about checking the oil level of the haldex oil. It says that theres an oil level check bolt.

    "The oil level is correct when the Haldex clutch is topped up to the lower edge of the control bore, or up to a minimum of approx. 3mm below the lower edge of the control bore."

    "if oil level is incorrect, the oil in the haldex clutch must be changed"

    refit oil check bolt tightening to 30Nm


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    hi i dont know wether its me being stupid or not but cant u just put the new oil in through the level check plug wudnt that be easyer than through the drain plug?

  13. #12
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    I always use the level check plug to fill the haldex as I find it easier especially if you cant get the car very high off the ground. The tube fits nicely along the side of the exhaust when located into the level check plug and then you can use a something long and thin to push the oil through. The oil is a low enough viscosity that it doesn't take much force. When you remove the tube from the check level plug leave the excess to run out and you know its full to the correct level.

    The heat from the exhaust will heat the haldex unit so maybe thats what they were thinking by just running the engine....

  14. #13
    666markyboy's Avatar
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    I managed to change the filter yesterday without the use of a proper tool but i wouldn't want to try it again as it all nearly went tits up..... needless to say the old filter ended up in lots of pieces .... certainly not recommended to do it without the proper tool
    1999 A3 Quattro 1.8T Pics >>HERE
    2002 A4 Avant quattro 1.9 TDi

  15. #14
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    Got this sorted last week, was very surprised how easy it was to carry out. The old oil didn't look to bad until i compared it with the new. I cannot stress enough how handy having the filter tool is even though it takes some patience to unscrew the filter.

    Will defo not be going to the stealers for this service £180 better of in my pocket..

    Matt

 

 

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