Panel Filters...

[A3_Turbo]

Could any-one recommend the best 1 to get?

I know they give no performance jsut wanted it for the noise factor

Cheers

Jason

 

[MikeA3]

I've fitted a pipercross panel filter to my tdi - no noticable difference in noise but it feels like a slighlty improved throttle response

if it's noise your after it might be worth putting a cone filter on?

 

[smitch]

Get an induction kit for noise.

I got a K&N panel filter cos i had my A4 chipped. Got it from Camberley Auto Factors and trade price the panel filter and induction kit were within a few quid of each other. Wasn't much more than about £45 from memory.

My mate's got some sort of diverter vlave on his A4 (???) and that makes a whizzing noise with the turbo if you're into that sort of thing. We're both in Surrey as well you might have seen it, red A4 with 19"ch's, Rs4 front bumper, slammed on coilovers etc....

 

[fingermouse]

just stick with the standard filter, if you want noise turn up the radio

 

[C_Audiboy]

just stick with the standard filter, if you want noise turn up the radio

But induction noise is great - you can't beat it - makes the engine sound like its sucking in the whole world!

I had a K&N panel filer on my S3 after a remap - sounded great.

 

[mattyboy199]

i was thinkg BMC panel filter soon.

 

[rodenal]

do you guys know that those oiled filters can screw up ur MAF?

 

[TRS1]

I'm running a Jetex panel filter and although it doesn't add a lot of power, there is a definate improvement in throttle response. It doesn't give you any induction "noise", you will need an induction kit for that, you can however hear the divertor valve better.
I'd say for £30ish you would pay for a Jetex it's a definate "do it"! :thumbsup:

 

[garratt83]

I'm with rodenal, don't change it. Audi's are made to last. I was lookin in to getting a k&n on mine cos I had one on my punto, made it sound better but after reading all the stuff on here I'm leaving it.

rodenal is right the oil filters can mess up your engine.

 

[ChriS3]

Could any-one recommend the best 1 to get?

I know they give no performance jsut wanted it for the noise factor

Cheers

Jason

Not sure about the A3 Turbo's, but you're right about no extra perormance on an S3.

If you want the deep burbbley noise, then you're best going for a Cold Air Induction (CAI) kit such as the Carbonio, BMC CDA, or Pipercross Viper.

 

[fingermouse]

do you guys know that those oiled filters can screw up ur MAF?

thats the second reason why I wouldn`t change mine,



the first being the noise lol wish my car was as quiet as a mouse stealth is best imo

 

[A3_Turbo]

Ok im confused now! Some say do some say dont! Is the general opinion just dont bother and leave it?

I would ideally like a BMC or Carbonio but £200 for a bit of noise is a bit excessive ( Coming from a guy who shed out on a Full miltek)

Id like to fit a panel filter but dont want to damage my MAF cant you get ones which arent oiled?


Jason

 

[concoursneil]

Ive got K&N im mine and car runs fine no trouble with Maf at all so all i can say mate is each to your own , ive had mine fitted for over 2 years now so its your choice

 

[KEF A3 20V T]

if you just want the noise just drill the air box then run a cold air feed to just next to your holes this gives you the noise and some nice cold air!

 

[SteveS]

im going for a k+n panel filter. i am going to fit a new maf anyway at the same time cause the cars done 65k now. i was advised not to have an induction kit because it sucks in engine heat. i can see that an oiled filter mite clog the maf over time - just dont over oil it when cleaning.

 

[ash_s3]

i went for a K&N, car did seem a little different after i fitted it, feels a bit more responsive, i also drilled the air box too, sounds great, not too loud, just... nice! lol

note: if you drill the air box, only drill in the cold-side (wing) and underneath a little (also on the side nearest the wing) and obviously make sure you have drilled below the filter so you engine does not suck in sh1tty air!

Regards

Ash

 

[mk1chopper]

To my knowledge its not panel filters that damage your MAF its cone filters. Using an uprated K+N apnel filter should'nt do any harm, using something like a Piper Cross foam cone filter (which requires oil) damages the MAF, an normally without heat sheilding or a good direct flow of cold air, cone filters normally suck in warm engine air.

 

[Timbo]

To my knowledge its not panel filters that damage your MAF its cone filters. Using an uprated K+N apnel filter should'nt do any harm, using something like a Piper Cross foam cone filter (which requires oil) damages the MAF, an normally without heat sheilding or a good direct flow of cold air, cone filters normally suck in warm engine air.

The K&N panel filters are oiled filters too.

 

[ash_s3]

To my knowledge its not panel filters that damage your MAF its cone filters. Using an uprated K+N apnel filter should'nt do any harm, using something like a Piper Cross foam cone filter (which requires oil) damages the MAF, an normally without heat sheilding or a good direct flow of cold air, cone filters normally suck in warm engine air.

most pannel filters are oiled though arnt they? my k&n said 'pre oiled in factory' on the box.

 

[rodenal]

Yeah, most upgrade panel filters are oiled, im not saying they definately will cause a problem, but if the oil has been applied a bit liberally then it can damage the maf as the drips are blown onto the little wire.

 

[MikeA3]

when i got my pipercross filter it wasn't oiled -they supply you with a can of it to apply yourself, so as long as your careful you shouldn't have a problem, it's a spray on oil so i just gave mine a light coating and it's been fine since.

each to their own i guess, the standard audi paper filters are fine too if you replace them regularly.

 

[mk1chopper]

Never relised that the panel filters were oiled to, just know from my experience with VAG cars that its the cone filters that destroy the MAF not the panel filters, the VR6 engines are a good example of this.

 

[s3shabs]

had my panel filter on my car for nearly a year with no problems at all. Its the induction kits which screw up the maf..noticed throttle response, and a sweet suction sound, along with a divertor sound.

 

[TRS1]

I've had mine on now for 18 months with no problems at all.
My dad is a VW master tech and he was telling me the biggest problems with the MAF getting damaged is when the airfilter is removed/installed and people are too rough with the induction hose.

 

[1ndy]

I've had mine on now for 18 months with no problems at all.
My dad is a VW master tech and he was telling me the biggest problems with the MAF getting damaged is when the airfilter is removed/installed and people are too rough with the induction hose.

I would have to agree with your dad...Being too rough with the sensitive MAF would do damage (without some people noticing for 20k miles or more). I did a fair amount of research before fitting a K&N to my TDI. But its each to thier own. Some just change the standard one at 5k (or so) intervals.

 

[M44 DUB]

I've heard panel filters are the best and i would only put a green cotton one in. What's the best for a A3 turbo for the best power gains? Not bothered if it doesn't make much noise just want it rapid!

 

[Booth_S4]

panel filter as said wont do much to your performance at all really!

 

[ash_s3]

Not bothered if it doesn't make much noise just want it rapid!

Buy an S3 :thumbsup:

 

[Tallpaul]

Sensibly oiled filters of any description will do no harm to your MAF. K & N recently did testing where they literally soaked a Bosch MAF in oil and it didn't break.

The simple fact is that Bosch Hot Film Air Mass Meters aren't very robust. I honestly doubt they break more frequently in modified cars than they do in completely stock ones.

If you want a Panel Filter, I can recommend Green. Although you won't get any particular gains from one, just they are a good company and comparable in price to any other; plus the filter is a pleasing 'green' colour

If you want noise, DON'T drill your airbox. It may make more noise but you'll also lose performance. Possibly the dumbest way to modify a car.

The noisiest induction kit i've ever heard is the Carbonio CAI. Well able to scare old ladies in to believing they be sucked in to the car and gives a nice wooshy dump valve noise too. Scan the various VAG Forums, they come up second hand for about £100 and the filters are easily and cheaply cleaned and re-oiled.

 

[ash_s3]

If you want noise, DON'T drill your airbox. It may make more noise but you'll also lose performance. Possibly the dumbest way to modify a car.

please explain your theory on why it will lose performance...

 

[Tallpaul]

drilled airbox will suck air from the engine bay; air from around the engine is hot; hot air is less dense than cold air; less air = less boost; less boost = less power.

 

[cjhill]

just my two pence worth...


dont bother 'upgrading' your filter - waste of money, just replace it more frequently with a standard part.

I do mine, and the oil/filter between each service - makes the biggest difference in my opinion.

Personally i think if anyone can actually detect the 0.5%difference or so an upgraded filter will make is kidding themselves.

 

[dultanur]

tallpaul, i beleive the 1.8t will increase boost in response to warmer inlet temp. in order to produce the required power. you can see this difference between summer and winter. but i'm not sure if it can compensate completely...
eitherway, your car will have to work harder to make the same power...

 

[Ess_Three]

tallpaul, i beleive the 1.8t will increase boost in response to warmer inlet temp. in order to produce the required power. you can see this difference between summer and winter. but i'm not sure if it can compensate completely...
eitherway, your car will have to work harder to make the same power...

No, no, no...
The ECU requests a given boost level...the N75 modulates to try to achieve this boost level. That's it...summer or winter...the requested and delivered boost IS THE SAME.

However...in summer the air is hotter, hot air means hot inlet air which means hot air into a hot turbo which equals even hotter air to the ICs.
Hot ambient air passing accross the ICs equals incomplete cooling of the hot compressed charge and the ECU pulls the timing back to prevent engine damage.

This effect is felt on hot days...or similarly as heat soak.
It's just felt as power loss at the top end.

In winter...the air is colder (the colder the better), cold air means cold air into the inlet, which means cold air into a hot turbo which means the compressed charge isn't as hot as it is in summer.
Then cold ambient air passing accross the ICs equals much better cooling of the hot compressed charge so the ECU sees much colder charge air temperatures at the inlet manifold and doesn't need to pull the timing back to prevent engine damage....so you get a much harder top end surge.

All engines benefit from cold air breathing and cold ambient temperatures...turbos more so then NA as they benafit x2 (inlet and IC efficiency).

There is no change in delivered boost summer to winter...only changes in the way ther ECU drives the engine based on air temperature (very simplistically)


If you drill your airbox, you feed a humgry engine hot air...summer or winter...as it gets hot under the bonnet of a 1.8T car (any turbo'd car) and so you reduce the power being made.
That's simply the way it is....


More noise, less power.
De-tuning. Not smart. In fact...very dense.


If you want to mess with the airbox, give it a nice big (4") cold air feed from the area of highest pressure just behind the front bumper skin...then you get lovely cold air and a (very) slight ram-air affect at daft speeds.

Don't drill the airbox...

 

[ash_s3]

drilled airbox will suck air from the engine bay; air from around the engine is hot; hot air is less dense than cold air; less air = less boost; less boost = less power.

thats why if you have any common sense you only drill the cold side of the air box, ie. nearerst the wing!

 

[Ess_Three]

thats why if you have any common sense you only drill the cold side of the air box, ie. nearerst the wing!

It doesn't matter.
If you have that much sense...you'll not drill it at all.

You feel the outside of the airbox after driving a good few miles...it's warm.
It's warm because the air all around it is warm...warm air in a hot engine bay.
The 1.8T engine bay gets hotter than most.

The standard airbox takes it's air from outside the engine compartment...through the inner wing...because the air in the engine compartment gets HOT.

Try to justify it as much as you like...but drilling the airbox IS allowing the engine to draw in warm/hot air...and that's not as good as feeding it with cold air.
Period. No ifs and buts. Fact.

Drilling the airbox...regardless of where...will reduce performance in certain circumstances.

Where do you think the air around the drilled holes comes from?
From the front of the car, bypassing the radiators (and hence not picking up even more heat) and bypassing the heat of the engine compartment, just to get into your lovely drilled holes?
Nope...I think not.
It's drawn from the lovely hot engine compartment.
Smart move.


Give the airbox a nice big 4" cold air feed from a cold source if you want to try to improve the performance.


Drill holes in it if you want to add noise and reduce performance.

 

[dultanur]

No, no, no...
The ECU requests a given boost level...the N75 modulates to try to achieve this boost level. That's it...summer or winter...the requested and delivered boost IS THE SAME.

thats exactly what i thought, until i got my s3. this the first car i've ever had wit a boost gauge, and i bought it in the middle of summer. the car would usually boost around 0.9 bar (the temperature was around 38C at the time). come winter the boost was around 0.75bar (which i was told is the normal stock boost). so i thought the car was compensating for the hot air by increasing boost pressure...

does this mean my car has a problem?

right now it's all done up, and it still will not keep a stable boost pressure. for example in 4th gear and 3000rpm up to 6000 it will keep around 1.4bar, then in 6th gear it will boost around 1.5-1.55 bar...VAG-COM also confirms the boost gauge readings...BTW the numbers may be off, but thats the usual trend.

if its ******, what do you think the problem is?

 

[M44 DUB]

Buy an S3 :thumbsup:

I would if i could find a good smashed one! I'll stick with the turbo this year but am still on the hunt for a smashed R32 or S3

 

[TRS1]

From owning turbo'd cars for over 10yrs now, I have to agree that drilling the airbox is not a sensible mod. Get an additional cold air feed in from the front of the car somewhere as ess-three said if you want any additional air in there.

 

[kingalA3]

Hi has anyone got any pictures of their airbox with a cold air feed as am thinking about adding a 80mm feed? Will this improve the noise?!
Cheers