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  1. #1
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    Cam belt change costs

    Toying with getting my cam belt done next time I come home at an independant as the cheapest in Dublin is mad expensive and the main dealer in belfast has quoted me 450 (not sure what this includes?), awesome arent far from my folks house so was going to get them to do the work for me.

    http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/workshop.html

    Can anyone tell me why there are huge price diferences between getting the water pump done with it and not? I didnt realise the water pump was so expensive?

    Any ideas?

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  3. #2
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    There shouldn't be much extra labour to do the pump as you have to remove the cambelt to replace it anyway. Best to get it done at the same time!

  4. #3
    Jampublic's Avatar
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    Think i paid £365 for mine, there was a thread a while back!

    Have a search

    Enjoy
    J


  5. #4
    Buster's Avatar
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    I was 440 for the following from a independant earlier this year.

    All belts, water pump, T/belt tensioner pully, small idler and damper

  6. #5
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    Get the parts and DIY it!!

    Then spend the money you've saved on a remap if you haven't got one already, and if you have, the some suspension or put towards wheels!!

    This guide is for an AGU engine (courtesy of HTC), but they're all the same, I did mine after only ever having done an oil change.
    http://www.seatcupra.net//knowledge_...n_vw_1.8t.html

    The only reason for not doing it would be if you don't like getting dirty, or you really aren't good hands on.

    I was really glad I did mine, I learnt alot about the engine and knew that it had been done properly. Only way to go IMO.

    Andy

  7. #6
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    Water pump is only £35 and 30min labour max (when done with cambelt)
    You need to check exactly what they are replacing as most of the job is labour and if any of the bits fail (idler/tensioner/water pump) then its new engine time.

  8. #7
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    doesnt answer why awesome charge a lot more for the waterpump aswell?

  9. #8
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    What's a lot more? I couldn't see pricing on their web site for cam belt change. They're probably using water pumps with metal impellers rather than the fisher price plastic, guaranteed to fail shyte Audi use. So that could be £60 at least plus coolant etc and an hours labour if they're feeling mean, so £120?

  10. #9
    campbell's Avatar
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    after doing my own cambelt,waterpump, idler, tensioner on my last car 106 gti, i would rather let someone else do it because it was very tight and awkward and took me about 5hours!
    although i did learn a lot and improved my patience!


    LaSarth&back- did you have any problems with removing the waterpump?i did have problems on my last car because the aluminium pump was siezed solid and had to batter it out. was a real pain, well done for doing the cambelt yourself- looks very tight in the engine and i bet there wasnt a lot of room
    2002 225 S3, metallic black, REVO, 18" RSTT alloys, goodyear Eagle F1s, silver leather heated seats, tinted windows, H&R spacers, black diamond grooved discs & Ferrodo DS2500 pads, BOSE system, xenons, forge DV, samco TIP & upper boost hoses.

  11. #10
    ash_s3's Avatar
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    my W reg S3 has just done 49k and ive just had the cam belt, tensioners and water pump done for my own piece of mind, audi reccomend its changed every 5 years regardless of mileage.
    had mine done by an audi technician doing the job as a foreigner, using all genuine brand new parts, total came to 160 inc labour wich i thought was very good, even stamped the service book for me too!

    when he removed the old water pump some of the fins had broken up on it, aparently this is a very common fault with them as they are only made from plastic, good job it was changed before it got any worse realy!
    2001 Audi S3 l MTM Remap l 252.7bhp 432.4Nm l Forge 007P l ECS Porsche Stage 2v2 Front Brake Set-up l ECS Stage 1 Rear Brake Set-up l 18" RS4 Alloy Wheels


  12. #11
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    The water pump was a little tight getting it out, cause of the pressure difference in the engine. I just levered it out with a screwdriver, and once it'd moved, it was quite easy to wiggle out.

    I was initially very scared of doing it, having read all the threads about valves hitting pistons, and new engines, 1000's of quids worth of work trying to save yourself a few hundred.

    I was afraid of knocking the cams out of position with wayward elbows and ratchets and the rest of it. But when I got down to it, I found that even with the spark plugs out to avoid compression pressure, you have to really be intent on moving any of the sprockets.

    Even if you do move it, as long as you mark everything up for TDC, then it's not a problem. I had visions of the cams just rotating like fruit machine reels, but it's not the case.

    It's not a small job either, I'm not joking, don't think it'll be a sinch, cos it's not. You've gotta have everything laid out in the order you took it off, and be ABSOLUTELY sure you've put everything back and torqued up etc. But it's not beyond most people, you just gotta take your time and don't rush.

    I did some other jobs at the same time while the coolant was out;
    flush engine
    flush radiator
    change thermostat
    cambelt
    waterpump
    aux drive belt
    new spark plugs

    The whole lot took me 3 days, overcoming obstacles I'd never imagined would be there, bit's I'd forgotten and had to re-do etc. Some might say 3 days??? i'd rather pay, but at the end of the day, I'm the one with the cash in my pocket and I know it's been done properly by the person who cares most about the car - ME!! I've learnt loads and it's given me the confidence to tackle other jobs. I fixed my broken electric window clips over the weekend, and changed my turbo in the summer.

    I think I must have saved over a 1500 in labour alone!

    I'm so pleased I had the guts to have a go cos if I hadn't, I certainly wouldn't have had a remap yet!

    So, if you've got some mods planned and don't want cowboys (some not all!!)workin on your motor, then do it yourself. More people have done it than you'd think!

    hope this helps you decide!!

    Andy

  13. #12
    campbell's Avatar
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    yes that helps, i agree with you that i wouldnt want cowboys working on my motor. i take my hat off to you for doing that work.

    ashS3- £160 for all that work and parts !! absolute bargain.where are you from?
    2002 225 S3, metallic black, REVO, 18" RSTT alloys, goodyear Eagle F1s, silver leather heated seats, tinted windows, H&R spacers, black diamond grooved discs & Ferrodo DS2500 pads, BOSE system, xenons, forge DV, samco TIP & upper boost hoses.

  14. #13
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    Well it needed doing, and I didn't have the money to pay for all of that (Audi quoted me 678!!), so I thought, well it's gotta be DIY then!

    It's really not as bad as it's made out to be. The fear factor is what makes you anxious. I'd happily do another one, and have it done in a few hours too.

    If anyone plans to DIY it, make sure you replace the engine mount bolts, as they are stretch bolts and one-use only. Have heard many reports of engines falling out after belts being changed at a dealer!!
    Last edited by LaSarthe&Back; 14th November 2006 at 16:57.

  15. #14
    campbell's Avatar
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    i would of thought a dealer would have the knowledge and change the engine mount bolts! im suprised, can you imagine driving down the road and your engine falling out lol
    2002 225 S3, metallic black, REVO, 18" RSTT alloys, goodyear Eagle F1s, silver leather heated seats, tinted windows, H&R spacers, black diamond grooved discs & Ferrodo DS2500 pads, BOSE system, xenons, forge DV, samco TIP & upper boost hoses.

  16. #15
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    I thought that's what the under tray was for, to catch the engine before it hits the road!
    I think you'd know about it before the engine physically falls out. Major vibrations from the car might indicate that an engine mount was failing.

 

 

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