Faulty S3 Electric Window Fix

HTC

HTC

Registered User
Joined
Jan 11, 2004
Messages
3,430
Reaction score
10
Points
38
Location
Koh Samui, Thailand
Website
www.b3ta.com
Some people have recently posted about issues with their electric windows not operating correctly. The problem manifests itself when the window fails to rise after being fully opened. The window will rise a small amount, the stop and roll down again leaving the driver a bit stuck!

I pulled apart a friends door at work to try and get to the bottom of it. This isn't a definative guide, its just a few pics to illustrate what goes wrong (didn't have time to take more photos as I was on my lunch break!)

Anyways, here is a pic of the door subframe removed from the door and the glass removed from the subframe and lifter mech.
s3electricwindowfix0019ua.jpg


The two light blue squares are what the window bolts to and these are attached to the lifter mech wires.

Here is a closeup of one of the clips.
s3electricwindowfix0029oo.jpg


Lifting one of the clips up you can see how the wire attaches. This is what a good clip looks like.
s3electricwindowfix0036bx.jpg


Now here is the underside of a faulty clip. As you can see part of the plastic has broken off.
s3electricwindowfix0047ad.jpg


In this state the wire can slip out of the clip when the user attempts to raise the window. In this case the front edge was pulled upwards whilst the rear edge stayed put. This action causes the glass to twist in the runners and get caught. The motor senses this obstruction to movement and then sends the glass back down again.
Here is a pic to illustrate how the wire slides out.
s3electricwindowfix0050or.jpg


Now onto the fix. The choice for me was to either replace the clip or fix it. As I was limited for time I chose to fix the offending part. (just to add, there was no part number on the clips so I would assume that they aren't available separately anyway /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif )
All I did was purchase some fast drying Araldite epoxy and blob it on the problem area. After a while it was solid and the wire wasn't going anywhere. I didn't get a chance to take a pic, but it ended up being alot stronger than the original setup.

After bolting everything back together the window now works fine.

Hope this helps people which have had the same problem.
 
yeah make a sticky for this one! An Epoxy sticky, lol, and good work HTC

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ok.gif
 
audi upgrades
Had exactly the same thing happen on the wifes golf gti last year.
The bummer was that she lowered the window to clean off the condensation at 6 in the morning, then came and dragged me out of bed when I still had 2 hours of sleep left to go.
On examining that mechanism it had a plastic insert (which had broken as above)in a metal bracket, so I reshaped the metal bracket to act as the plastic which had snapped off
 
That is brilliant HTC! Mines been broken for a year now because I didn't realise you could seperate the subframe from the door. Can you explain how to remove the subframe?
 
Once the dor card is removed, you then disconnect the wiring harness from the door subframe. The undo four torx head bolts in the locations indicated below (the bolltom right bolt faces into the door from behind). But before you undo the bottom two, you need to mark the locations of two positioning wedges to the door. These are used to adjust how the subframe sits. A paint pen or tipex works well.
s3electricwindowfix0064di.jpg


It won't fall out with the bolts removed as there are locating dowels to stop that.
Now lift the whole assembly upwards and out of the door.

You will then clearly see how to remove the glass etc.

To move the glass and mech up and down simply undo the three bolts that hold the motor to the subframe and remove it.
 
Wow. This problem hapenned to my A3 just yesterday. I managed to get the window back up by pulling and working the switch. You've just saved me the cost of a new regulator mechanism :)
 
HTC, you're a god.

I've fixed mine, total cost £4.99 (for the araldite!). It works perfectly. It was the back clip on mine.

A couple of things that might help anyone doing it:

1. When removing the subframe from the door, don't forget the lock button. I idid!.

2. If you've managed to get the window back up, drop it all the way down before disconnecting the wires, as you need it alll the way down to get the glass out.

3. have some snips handy to cut cable ties.

The job took me a couple of hours. If you've had the door apart before it will take less. I took the opportunity to waxoyl the inside of the door as well.
 
Yeah, as much as I could without getting it all over the runners. It worked perfectly for about 3 days. My clip was more broken up than the one in the pic though.

The new regulator has different colour clips- different material perhaps? It's a genuine part, from Euro Car Parts.
 
Yeah. What I'll try to do is take pics of the whole job, as there's a few bits that might help people.

The new clips look very much the same but are a different colour. It made me wonder if that was for easy ID of a modified part?

Anyway, I have the pop riveter ready (Haynes says the regulator is riveted to the subframe), so if the weather is good I'll probably have a crack at it this weekend. The car park barrier at work is hard going without a working window.
 
I've fixed mine now. Not too hard- I'm going to do a write up web page and I'll link it from here when it's done. The new regulator seems to have modified clips.
 
Just found out from me buddie that the araldite has given way on his window too...........******.

When you do your write up, it'll be good if it replaces this one.
 
after posting some info in the A6 section about this subject I have just found the part number for the carriers if it is of any help to people.

Its an A6 part number but they look identical to these


4B0 837 463B


I drilled a small hole either side of the broken lug and secured with a small cable tie. Never had a problem after that and they held out fine

Simon
 
simonwjones said:
after posting some info in the A6 section about this subject I have just found the part number for the carriers if it is of any help to people.

Its an A6 part number but they look identical to these


4B0 837 463B


I drilled a small hole either side of the broken lug and secured with a small cable tie. Never had a problem after that and they held out fine

Simon
Click to expand...

I've bought 2 and they look like they will fit. I'll post here when I've done it.

Cheers!
 
I've fitted the new parts as described by simonwjones, and they fit a treat. I'll add it to the web page (link above) that describes the fix.

The new clips are different: they have a metal insert and are much heavier.
 
Hi Guys, Bringing an old post alive here!
I'm really impressed with the detailed repair info!
I'm ordering up the clips today and I'll be tackling my passenger window on Wednesday night! Can't wait to have a working window again!
My mum's A6 has had this problem for a while as well, I'll be able to sort that one in half the time after practicing on mine with a bit of luck!
Cheers,

Jan
Thanks Guys!
 
probably not the best time to change it on a wednesday night, i'm attempting mine on a saturday morning! :)
 
:thumbsup: nice one guys, my sister just had the same problem happen today with her a3!

we've got the window back up again for now and will have a look at a fix when there's more time. :icon_thumright:
 
I havent got work Thursday! - So if I over run with time (very likely) Then atleast I can recover from it! I've got an indoor area with good lighting thats going to be my den for the evening! Saturday I'll tackle my mums A6! Thats if I win the battle with mine first!
Jan
 
simonwjones said:
after posting some info in the A6 section about this subject I have just found the part number for the carriers if it is of any help to people.
<snip>
I drilled a small hole either side of the broken lug and secured with a small cable tie. Never had a problem after that and they held out fine

Simon
Click to expand...

Thanks Simon. Yes it seems to be a common problem on the A6's too. The layout is pretty much the same as the A3 and yes the cable tie option seems to work very well. Use a pretty sturdy cable tie though, not one of the cheap shoddy 3mm ones. There's some pressure on that ol' plastic bracket when the window is going up...

45 minutes. Easy once you've got the door card off. Also allowed me a bit of time to line up the subframe with the bodywork whilst I was at it. A very productive session. Now for the wallowy suspension and so so brakes...

Thanks for the info everyone.

Tony.
 
hi, i have this problem on my a3 but am really not a car mechanical person and would not trust myself taking apart my door. does anyone know how much this fix would be likely to cost if i took my a3 to audi to fix it? also, if i bought the parts myself would most garages be able to perform the fix for me?
thanks in advance
 
Get the clips as described above in this thread (no need for the whole regulator). I got mine off ebay for £11 inc p+p others have said you can get them cheaper elsewhere though. It was raining all the time when i wanted to get mine fixed so could not do it myself so i paid a local independant garage for an hours labour to fit the clips for me so it cost me £50 for labour total of £66. Window works perfect now.
 
great theard,will be ordering some new clips 2moz
 
HTC said:
Once the dor card is removed, you then disconnect the wiring harness from the door subframe. The undo four torx head bolts in the locations indicated below (the bolltom right bolt faces into the door from behind). But before you undo the bottom two, you need to mark the locations of two positioning wedges to the door. These are used to adjust how the subframe sits. A paint pen or tipex works well.


It won't fall out with the bolts removed as there are locating dowels to stop that.
Now lift the whole assembly upwards and out of the door.

You will then clearly see how to remove the glass etc.

To move the glass and mech up and down simply undo the three bolts that hold the motor to the subframe and remove it.
Click to expand...

wow with this info i think i will look into making the door frameless when its open that would be a SWEEEEEEET looking mod!!:respekt:
 
Thanks HTC & everyone who has added to this thread, it has been very helpful.

I took my door card off last weekend to start on this, but failed to complete it due to a lack of the right tools to take it any further. Now a week later, some borrowed some tools and of course the two brackets (part number supplied in this thread:)) my door is working and back together.

I did have some issues and thought I should let you all know. The brackets I sourced seemed a bit big for the fittings on my door, so I had to shave them down to fit. I also didn't managed to disconnect the electric mirrors, so worked on brackets in the door way and the rain! :( Good timing on my part!

DSC00355.jpg


I also decided to do both brackets since I had the door apart, bad idea! Took me ages to get the second unbroken bracket off. I then had a fitting issue with the bracket which seemed to be too big and needed to be shaved to fit and connect in correctly. I am sorry I did not take any further photo's to show this problem, but a little issue with the rain and the car door being wide open was causing worry! :sorry:

DSC00356.jpg


Well its all back together again and it's a lot less noisy in the car now the door card is back on! It felt like I had been driving a rally car with the door open for the last week!:laugh:
 
Hi everyone,

I've had email from the web page here where I wrote up the fix: a chap in Australia was told the new clip was no longer available by a dealer there, who then tried to sell him a regulator for £130ish. Can anyone confirm if the part is still available, at least in the UK?

Chris
 
I bought one just the other day from an Audi stealer.

They are definately still available!
 
Good timing to drag up the old post, I found this problem with my car on Sunday and lo and behold, I come on here and there's a thread! Superb!
 
So replacing these clips doesnt take that long then just take door card off and simple as ?
 
I did this last week as the clip had just broken on mine.
i would say 2 hours if youve never had it apart before, and you would struggle without taking the inner door off imo.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

jojo
Faulty Electric Window
Replies
7
Views
1K
jojo
jojo
M
electric window fix
Replies
8
Views
913
deeman88
deeman88
Poke13
Faulty Electric Window - Clips (S3 2003)
Replies
11
Views
4K
Poke13
Poke13
jonS3
S3 Electric Window Problem :(
Replies
14
Views
3K
chrisb
C
HOUCH
Electric window fault
Replies
1
Views
1K
jojo
jojo
Top
Back