Wheel Alignement Figures ?

darko

Registered User
Joined
Dec 4, 2004
Messages
272
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
london, uk
Does anyone know the correct settings for a 2001 S3 ? Going to get 4 wheel alignement done on the car and want to check the figures as its done. Should I also take off the wheel spacers or will that not effect the measurements ? Is there any benefit dialing in different settings from standard to alter the handling (in a positive way) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Does anyone know the correct settings for a 2001 S3 ? Going to get 4 wheel alignement done on the car and want to check the figures as its done.


[/ QUOTE ]

Not off the top of my head...but it's pretty much no front toe and no camber...same at the rear.


[ QUOTE ]

Should I also take off the wheel spacers or will that not effect the measurements ?


[/ QUOTE ]

No...as long as they are on tight...they'll be fine.


[ QUOTE ]

Is there any benefit dialing in different settings from standard to alter the handling (in a positive way) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes...huge benefits...it makes the S3 a far nicer car to drive.

Ask for as much negative camber as the guy can get by loosening the front balljoint bolts and pulling them out as far as they'll go.
If the car is lowered...you may get -1.0 degrees plus per side...
If it's standard you'll probably only get -0.5 degrees per side...but it all helps.

I like the front toe set to slightly toe-out...perhaps 2 minutes per side...not a lot, but enough to give the front some feel.

It's also worth loosening the front subframe bolts first too...and pull the subframe as far forward as you can...then re-tighten. Do this before all the rest of the settings...this will add castor and assist further.

Without adjustable tie-bars at the back, it's pretty much set...you can adjust the toe...but there is little point unless you are on a damn good aftermarket set-up...so leave the rear be.
 
thanks for the info !

I am wondering if the car is lowered as the ride is a lot harder than my friends S3 and the tyres have all worn (a lot!) on the inside edges. the car has factory fit 18" wheels.

I just replaced a track rod end (horrible, horrible job) and the drive shafts so the tracking is probably a long way out too.

how will the settings you suggest effect tyre wear ?
 
[ QUOTE ]
thanks for the info !

I am wondering if the car is lowered as the ride is a lot harder than my friends S3 and the tyres have all worn (a lot!) on the inside edges. the car has factory fit 18" wheels.


[/ QUOTE ]

Sounds like you already have some front negative camber...or your alignment is way out.


[ QUOTE ]

how will the settings you suggest effect tyre wear ?

[/ QUOTE ]

If you punt along motorways all year long, lots of negative camber will wear the inside edges...but if you do a mix of driving and push on...the scrubbing of the outside you get driving like that will balance up the wear on the inside edges...and all will be fine.

I ran -1.5 degreres front negative camber on my S3...and -1.7 degrees on my Golf...and have nothing but perfect, even tyre wear.
 
Due to the suspension geometry set-up on the rear of the S3, lowering one by 30mm increases the rear camber to approx -2°. It's quite noticable if you're looking at it from the rear side view.

I think the standard rear setting is just over -1° (sure to be corrected if I'm wrong).

I ran at -2° for a while but found the high speed stability to be a bit twitchy. Running at factory settings with the car lowered is more solid and the turn-in is less harsh. Neither set-up has affected tyre wear.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Due to the suspension geometry set-up on the rear of the S3, lowering one by 30mm increases the rear camber to approx -2°. It's quite noticable if you're looking at it from the rear side view.


[/ QUOTE ]

True...
That's how I killed the inside edges of my rear tyres...


[ QUOTE ]

I think the standard rear setting is just over -1° (sure to be corrected if I'm wrong).


[/ QUOTE ]

I didn't think it was as much as that...nearer 0 I thought...but I may too be wrong.


[ QUOTE ]

I ran at -2° for a while but found the high speed stability to be a bit twitchy.


[/ QUOTE ]

Same here...better at -0.5 ish per side at the back when lowered and on better dampers than those pathetic Audi things...


[ QUOTE ]

Running at factory settings with the car lowered is more solid and the turn-in is less harsh. Neither set-up has affected tyre wear.

[/ QUOTE ]

But there is a lot more to come if you get aggressive with your geometry, I can assure you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Stolen from elsewhere. Not sure where the S3 fits in to all that.

a38psusp4ru.jpg
 
[ QUOTE ]


But there is a lot more to come if you get aggressive with your geometry, I can assure you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Standard set-up works well with the rest of the toys I've got, you'd be surprised.

I need bigger brakes before I really play with the settings. No point in going faster if I can't go slower.
 
[ QUOTE ]

Standard set-up works well with the rest of the toys I've got, you'd be surprised.


[/ QUOTE ]

I've been there...and I can assure you, you can improve front end grip, turn in and balance by not having standard settings!
Standard settings are awful...and they sell the chassis short.

I had mine long enough to know what works and what doesn't...I pretty much changed everything...and ended up with one of the sweetest handling Ss around - as anyone who's driven it / owned it will confirm.


[ QUOTE ]

I need bigger brakes before I really play with the settings. No point in going faster if I can't go slower.

[/ QUOTE ]

Again, I disagree...

I ran standard-ish brakes for years...and sorted the chassis out before / during...and you can still cover ground quickly with standard-ish brakes...the standard brakes are fine for road use if maintained. Not as good as Brembos...but perfectly fine.
 
I'll have a play with the settings you mentioned above. I just paid for the digital realignment so it'll have to wait till next month. It handles really sweet just now so it seems hard to imagine it going better.

The current discs are getting old and the fade resistance ain't great. I need new discs anyway, so I might as well upgrade them while I'm at it.
 
Glen what do you reckon I should ask for on my standard S3 with 17" wheels etc, I think I remember seeing from when I changed the bushes on the wishbones that the ball joint is actually set as far in on the adjusters as possible and had been for ages - I'm guessing I should ask for them to just add as much negative camber as possible as a start?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Glen what do you reckon I should ask for on my standard S3 with 17" wheels etc, I think I remember seeing from when I changed the bushes on the wishbones that the ball joint is actually set as far in on the adjusters as possible and had been for ages - I'm guessing I should ask for them to just add as much negative camber as possible as a start?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah, I'd look for as much negative as possible...
And add a little toe out at the front. It works on the S3...only a little though...perhaps 2 minutes per side.

Then play with your tyre pressures, if you haven't already...standard front for 2 people, and the rears at full load pressures should yield a better turn in.
 
im going to book it today and pass on all the info from this post, the guys are very helpfull and audi enthusiasts so im sure they will be happy to try these things. on the subject of dampers which are a good choice for improving the ride quality as well as the damping control ? would i just be best replacing the springs and dampers not just the dampers ?

Are any of the points mentioned things i can do before the car goes to the garage, such as the ball joints / subframe ?
 
[ QUOTE ]
on the subject of dampers which are a good choice for improving the ride quality as well as the damping control ?


[/ QUOTE ]

The damping on the Bilstein Sprint dampers is sublime...absolutely perfect for an S3.


[ QUOTE ]

would i just be best replacing the springs and dampers not just the dampers ?


[/ QUOTE ]

Dampers will give the biggest improvement in handling...springs the best look.
Both together is a vast improvement...but getting costly.

Lowered springs only on work standard dampers is afwul to drive...


[ QUOTE ]

Are any of the points mentioned things i can do before the car goes to the garage, such as the ball joints / subframe ?

[/ QUOTE ]

You could...but they'll need to be done agian with the wheel alignment gear hooked up, to get the settings balanced...so there may be little point in giving youself the work.
 
There should be a sticker near where the spare wheel sits, this shows the basic wheel alignment setup. Kwik Fit done a good job of putting my wheels near enough to basic setup.

 

Similar threads