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  1. #1
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    Crank Sensor Probs

    Well, Coil Pack Harness now replaced, new Platinum Plug's & the 2l TFSI Coil Pack's fitted. Found moisture & some corrosion in the ECU Harness Plug's so cleaned everything with electrical cleaner & a soft toothbrush. Scanned the Car & cleared the Code's. It still won't start at all now, still getting Throttle Body Code & TBA does nothing to change the symptoms (although maybe the TBA isn't working properly because of the Car showing up other Codes). I don't think the Throttle Body is reaching it's fully open &/ or fully closed position during the Adaption but I also don't think that would cause the Car to not start at all!

    So, on to the Speed Sensor fault. It was throwing a Code for this before I did all this work (athough it was also throwing up other random code's aswel) so I replaced it anyway for peace of mind as it was only £30 for the genuine part. Still getting a Code for the Engine Speed Sensor & the Car almost goes to start with kind of a pop of backfire but then just cranks with no start!?! Anyone have a clue what could still throw up a Crank Sensor Code when it's a brand new Sensor & would a doddgy TB cause the Car to not start at all!?

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  3. #2
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Which sensor did you replace? crank sensors from a dealer are normally knocking on the door of 100 quid... 30 seems cheap to me... I assume its the one bottom right of the block as you are looking at the front of the car?

    What is the actual fault code?

    <tuffty/>
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  4. #3
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    Yes mate, Crank Sensor down under the Oil Filter. £30 was for a genuine OE Replacement Sensor from my Motor factors. I had them check the make & order a decent 1. You can get the cheap 1s on Ebay for like £9 so hopefully this £30 is a good version. I know Audi would like to charge me a lot more but that's because all main dealers are c**ts more than anything Not sure on the Code but I'm sure @audi will put it up when he sees this. It did just keep coming back eveytime we cleared it though so defo something wrong there!

  5. #4
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    16705, 16706 iirc, relating to implausable and no signal on G28

    The car didnt start on long cranking so this may be false codes.

    Throttle body adaption actually said OK in vcds, but the throttle pedal seems to go from 15%-85% and 85%-15% on the other side.

    Throttle body was making a crunching noise. I dont have much experience with these turbo cars so just had a quick look as CarbonBlack wanted a key. If anybody can suggest what to check with vcds ill be passing again next week and may be able to look further into it.

    I thought you said the sensor was ganuine?! Try TPS and get a genuine one. :D
    '02 TDi 130 Sport: Mods to date: BXP 160 conversion, EGR delete, Decat, Helix SMF fast road clutch, 312mm front rotors, full DIS , CC, Xenons.
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  6. #5
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    It is a genuine 1, I asked Audi & they supply the same make. I can't afford to just throw away a brand new £30 Sensor & grab another £100 1 lol. Then a TB, then maybe a Throttle Pedal etc etc. This weather + living out in the sticks & not having a Car for 2 weeks now already is messing me up!!!!!!

  7. #6
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    CarbonBlack - was the crank sensor easy to change? I have a 2006 2L TDI, dont know if the sensor is in the same location? just been out as I had a fault for the engine speed sensor after the car failed to start so bought a replacement, but cannot see where this fits at all! I have removed the oil cooler, and can see a wire going into the block, but the connector looks like it wouldnt fit to the sensor I have! if it is in the same place on these I will go and have another look!

  8. #7
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    Yes mate it's in that area, to the right hand side & kind of just bellow the Oil Filter. I had my Oil Dipstick & all those bit's there off so that made it easier to find & change but it is still quite a pig!!! Maybe they've sold you the wrong Sensor as there are different 1s for an A3.
    Last edited by CarbonBlack; 2nd February 2014 at 19:39.

  9. #8
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    Just on a hope I went out to try the Car today. Every time I turn the Ignition off & back on the Car almost goes to fire & start on the 1st crank but then just cranks & cranks until you turn the Ignition off & on again. Also, no Codes now except for Distributor P0321, P0322.... which has never even come up before!!!!!!!!! Just what is up with my Car!!??!!!!!!!
    Last edited by CarbonBlack; 2nd February 2014 at 19:43.

  10. #9
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    Tried a few things today: with the Boost Hose off the TB & the Key turned to Ignition on, if I press the accelerator up & down you can see the TB Butterfly moving nice & freely. So whether it's operating at 100% I don't know but it is definitely working enough that it wouldn't stop the Car starting. Spraying starter spray directly into the IM doesn't do anything more than the Fuel you can smell coming through. So I pulled 1 Plug at a time out of the Head but left them in the Coil Pack & cranked the Engine to look for spark. Each Plug only fires once on the 1st crank but then doesn't spark again!!!?! This is obviously why the Car goes to start on the 1st crank but the just cranks & cranks after until you turn the Key off & on again! I thought you either had spark or didn't lolol, how can I have an initial spark & then something stopping it!?!

  11. #10
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    Anyone have an idea of how likely it could be for the Flywheel to of messed up somehow?! I've had a Car Sparkie out today that did all sorts of stuff. The only Code that keeps coming back now is the Crank Sensor not having a proper signal. So other than my old Sensor going bad (had same Code before I changed it) & the new Sensor being completely fried from new, surely that only leaves the Flywheel to be sending a signal at the wrong time to fire the Coil Pack? Then again, the Plug's only fire that 1st crank though!!!

  12. #11
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    earths under the battery tray, get em off clean em and refit.. i had a similar problem with loadsa codes coming and going... worth a shot for free fella. because your getting soo many codes it has to be earths surely???
    1999 apy s3, n249 delete, sai and n112 delete. bbs lm reps, s2000 filter, relentless v3 manifold, relentless downpipe and sports cat, scorpion cat back system, badger 5 v3 tip, bam rocker cover, push in coilpacks, toyosports fmic, amd remapped to 280.3 bhp and 263.9 lb/ft.

  13. #12
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    I had what seem to be the same issues with my TDI, I dont know if it the same, but before I changed my crank sensor I had the same P0332 fault and P1443, I went through everything I could think of to do with the throttle and EGR valves. In the end i actually found a dodgy wire just before the crank sensor that I had just replaced, cut this, reconnected and car fired up first time, drives well so far - only repaired this week! But the other faults I cleared and they do not come back on ignition on anymore.

    I was convinced that the speed sensor does not actually stop the car starting, i thought it limited the rpm to 3200 in limp mode. But before I fixed the wire it was impossible to drive. Might be worth trying to check the wiring!

  14. #13
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    Well, all better

    It seems you should never doubt the guru's after all 1 used Crank Sensor from the breakers 'just to try', 1st turn of the Key & we have life again!! So yes the new Sensor from the shop was a dudd! I had them order me another 1 in & it was even worse quality controlled than the 1st! None of the new Sensors had the little metal piece sticking out from the plastic body of the Sensor like on my old 1 & the breaker 1 & the 2nd 1 the shop got in actual had some of the plastic body covering the metal part where it hadn't had the edge de bered from the mould!!!

    I think the other random codes & trouble were down to water/ moisture & corrosion in the Harness Plug's & crappy split wires on the Coil Pack Harness. After all the bit's I've removed, cleaned & replaced over the last couple of week's the Car now runs beter than ever & I have a nice pile goodies to get on now as well
    Last edited by CarbonBlack; 10th February 2014 at 00:49.

 

 

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