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Thread: The not so great Forge Splitter question

  1. #41
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    It performs fantastically, and the engineering is brilliantly sound. Im just upset that so many people soil the reputation of a brilliant product from awful tests and conclusions that take in almost none of the variables :S the forge splitter is a wonderful design and works amazingly well, buuuut it does appear im not going to get any sort of comprehensible or useful response here :D love the mj post!

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  3. #42
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    literally none, even people just dropping random comments about how it actually works, without knowing...well...how it actually works? oh and on the negative thing, thank you?

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    Try any message board from a car the runs a 1.8t engine, I know the seat and VW guys will all say the same. As soon as a question is asked about a Split-R everyone will say bin it.
    2001 1.8T Quattro Sport 89k covered ARY engine.
    Remapped at Badger 5, 213bhp - 235lb/ft torque.
    HS2K cone, FMDV008, Silicon TIP, 18" RS4 (reps), AP coilovers, Catch can, n249 bypass, Toyosport 3" Downpipe/Decat, S3 Front brakes, Polyflexed Dogbone, S3dave adjustable tie bars

    Soon to be done: SAI delete, Install the toyosport FMIC i have kicking about in my living room

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    Im looking at the runs who are having no problems, my conclusion is that there must have been a previous model, or bad batch, or redesign since these were first released?

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    My status moved to neutral? I kind of want to go back into reverse gear :S

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    There may well have been a revision, they did revise the pistons on the 007p and 008 valves. personally i would still be sticking with a closed system. With a decent TIP, filter and a remap you get a nice loud dumping sound anyway
    2001 1.8T Quattro Sport 89k covered ARY engine.
    Remapped at Badger 5, 213bhp - 235lb/ft torque.
    HS2K cone, FMDV008, Silicon TIP, 18" RS4 (reps), AP coilovers, Catch can, n249 bypass, Toyosport 3" Downpipe/Decat, S3 Front brakes, Polyflexed Dogbone, S3dave adjustable tie bars

    Soon to be done: SAI delete, Install the toyosport FMIC i have kicking about in my living room

  8. #47
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    that must be it, I do have the option of making this a fully closed system, open, or split, another wonderful aspect of the design. Still as of yet no problems have arisen! And man, thanks for just a calm unbiased opinion :S I used to use these forums about 15 years ago when they were blossoming and these sorts of attitudes were so seldom, now people know so much, they throw information at you you never asked for and claim to know everything about something you never asked. I don't blame them, it's just excruciatingly frustrating when it is consistently all you get. From what I've seen in the design the valve CANT leak at idle. The port for the venting is higher and blocked off when the recirc part is open? There are a lot of strange rumors about this DV, id say you are right in that it was an old design a few years back.

  9. #48
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    If it is perfectly engineered, why does it rattle?
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  10. #49
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    It is designed to rattle, typical setup instructions include setting it to 10, listen for the rattle then adjust until this dissipates and you have found your appropriate spring rate

  11. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maty J View Post
    Fitted a forge splitter valve about a month ago. Went in fine, no errors, no problems and a great sound. BUT the setting out of the box for a stock 1.8t 225 is 15ish clicks, here it holds pressure ok, but rattles, to get rid of the rattle I need to tighten it to around 22-25 clicks, but then I drastically loose boost; absolutely no kick in the face feeling. BUT, around 7-8 from 0 clicks it rattles like crazy but when the turbo kicks in, its absolutely insane, the car has never behaved like this. It really feels like I've shaved half a second off the 0-100 time and I get a proper pinned to the seat, kicked in the face feeling. However, this setting seems far too low? Will it cause any adverse effects? Ive heard over tightening it say 30-35 clicks on stock can cause the turbo to struggle (and the higher I go, the less the splitter rattles) but, the higher my clicks go, the less boost I seem to get? This feels like it is incorrect? I don't mind running with the splitter at 7-8 clicks, rattling and getting a ridiculous amount of boost, as long as I know it wont damage anything, and that this seems right?
    Quote Originally Posted by Maty J View Post
    It is designed to rattle, typical setup instructions include setting it to 10, listen for the rattle then adjust until this dissipates and you have found your appropriate spring rate
    Have you not just answered you own question on setting it up?
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    2003 S3 BAM 225 Dolphin grey, Silk Nappa Leather, Bose, Cruise control.

    Mods; custom code stage 1, S3 8P gear knob, pipercross panel filter, APR diverter valve, Forge TIP, Powerflex bushes, R32 rear anti roll bar, spacers F 15mm R 20mm, haldex race controller, Bilstein b12 pro kit, Porsche 996 turbo brakes.

  12. #51
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    sorry the instructions actually state that in a fully closed position there should be a rattle evident, then turning in a clockwise movement the rattle will dissipate to give you an audible reference point for spring tension. The rattling can be caused by several things but mainly a combination of too little vacuum and spring tension to keep the piston firmly affixed against the spring. This allows it to rattle about, and give a reference point for tension. I think maybe my rattle has started since removing the n249 system and the valve has needed adjusting.

  13. #52
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    No.

    You are either one of two things; very stupid. Or an employee of Forge.

    Do you understand how the induction system on a 1.8t works? Can you understand how regulated and metered air values remaining constant are important to the running of the engine and the ECU's understanding of how the engine is running?
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  14. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16Klappe View Post
    No.

    You are either one of two things; very stupid. Or an employee of Forge.

    Do you understand how the induction system on a 1.8t works? Can you understand how regulated and metered air values remaining constant are important to the running of the engine and the ECU's understanding of how the engine is running?
    I'm not the only one thinking he is an employee of Forge. Haha
    2003 S3 BAM 225 Dolphin grey, Silk Nappa Leather, Bose, Cruise control.

    Mods; custom code stage 1, S3 8P gear knob, pipercross panel filter, APR diverter valve, Forge TIP, Powerflex bushes, R32 rear anti roll bar, spacers F 15mm R 20mm, haldex race controller, Bilstein b12 pro kit, Porsche 996 turbo brakes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maty J View Post
    I should have asked, any engineers here?

    yes



    and forge split R is not a good product /END

    the adjustment is for how far the piston is allowed to rise or not, adjusting the atmos apature.. also changing the spring rate by side effect of compressing it..

    Its a leaky valve by design which is why "we" and I mean "ME" as in Badger5 do not recommend them.

    OE or the forge 007/008 full recirc is the "better" valve to use than this thing.

    Tuners do not adjust the split r to achieve boost... lmao...... What line of crap have you been fed and injested hook line and sinker?
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  16. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maty J View Post
    It is designed to rattle, typical setup instructions include setting it to 10, listen for the rattle then adjust until this dissipates and you have found your appropriate spring rate
    Adjusting the spring rate of the valve doesn't change its effectiveness.

    It is held closed by the inlet pressure acting on the top of the piston, the spring is just there to help close the valve rapidly on reapplicarion of the throttle.

    Having a harder spring, doesn't 'give' you more or less boost.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

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    Hahaha I wish, I would make a lot more money, and yes I do, very well, anything over a steady and metered 70-75% is all the s3 8l system requires for the 1.8t 20v running a K04. The extra 20-25% (or the full 100% the system receives) is a fail safe, much like the k04 being tuned lower than running at maximum capacity so engine management can "iron out kinks", air intake problems and fueling issues can be fixed appropriately with a high level of safety to the engine and the driver. A 90 to 10 recirc to atmo ratio is still well, well within this fail safe (of a 20-25% failsafe which would take into account sudden leaks, splits, cracks etc) . There was speculation that these valves dumped from between 30 to 40%, which again leads me to think these are a revised design. Cars are designed almost entirely around this failsafe engineering, which is why moding is so possible, it is essentially removing one failsafe at a time.

  18. #57
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    If it's the sound that you want (I can see no other reason to buy one), you'll get it with a cone filter. An OEM/007/008 recirc with a decent tip (Badger5 80mm) and a cone filter will be more than loud enough, if that's your thing. I find it a little too loud to be honest.
    Handling mods++. HTA3582 stroker soon-ish. Hiding parts from the mrs since 2011. Build thread

  19. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maty J View Post
    It performs fantastically, and the engineering is brilliantly sound. Im just upset that so many people soil the reputation of a brilliant product from awful tests and conclusions that take in almost none of the variables :S the forge splitter is a wonderful design and works amazingly well, buuuut it does appear im not going to get any sort of comprehensible or useful response here :D love the mj post!
    its not a brilliant product.
    Its a poor product, which by design leaks, and was designed to fullfill a market against the likes of GFB valves, which also leak like a sieve.

    You have mastered the nak of antagonising many people in a short space of time........ Bravo.

    Maybe, accept that when others point out the deficiencies in this valve that they do so from experience...

    Video 1
    Shows the dv with some recirc allowed by adjustment allows for external air to be drawn into the pipework.. unmetered air, which on occasion can cause stalling at junctions..
    Split r leaking - YouTube

    Video 1
    Shows the dv in use with a smoke test into Intake... Clearly shows leakage to atmos of air which went mast the maf/intake
    Split r leaking 2 - YouTube

    Video 3
    This is static test of 0.5psi smoke test showing leakage past the piston... Leaky DV? Why? OE ones hold 30psi leak free.. why want to fit a leaky version onto a car?
    Split r leaking 3 - YouTube
    Last edited by badger5; 19th January 2014 at 13:01.
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  20. #59
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    I'm running a v2 80mm tip with the cast aluminum end and a 42draft designs 225 intake, sounds fantastic. Yes, I bought it for the sound. Same as the custom header and turbo back exhaust, of course geared to performance, but tuned for sound. She's a work in process, but there are only 6 of these cars I believe in my state which makes making it very unique, very fun.

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    Again, my valve doesn't leak? And I still have to disagree! I pulled the device apart to inspect the valve before I realized there was meant to be a partial opening at idle. The construction is extremely well engineered and the parts are very very good? What about the design seems bad? Im not overly fussed about my popularity here
    Last edited by J Eyo; 19th January 2014 at 13:02.

  22. #61
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    It does.

    That's what it is designed to do.

    Leak pressure into the atmosphere to make you sound Badass.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  23. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maty J View Post
    Again, my valve doesn't leak?
    watch the videos... It will... you just done realise.

    posted here>?>>> http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-f...ml#post2060947
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    Right, so you're calling the BOV function the "leak"?? Then yes it leaks! "Consider that whilst under full throttle the volume is pressurized to whatever maximum boost pressure you run, say 20 psi, and held there despite the "leak" that is the engine's consumption of air. Imagine 1.8 liters of volume pressurized to 20 psi several thousand times per minute WITHOUT a drop in pressure in the supply line" <--- or this leak?

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    Im not getting any of the 2nd or 3rd? I am getting the first, but, if I hold a tissue in front of the trumpet it blows, my valve is actually pushing air out, not sucking air in? Perhaps they have their valve on backwards?

  26. #65
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    my conclusion has to be that I just got a "good one"

  27. #66
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    What Bill means is, when it's meant to seal and hold boost or vacuum, it doesn't. As his videos show.

    Maybe have a read on a few other forums about the "clicks" you need (VWVortex, etc). The general consensus on here is that they cause more problems than they are worth with the only benefit being noise, which you get anyway with the OEM/007/008 setups.
    Handling mods++. HTA3582 stroker soon-ish. Hiding parts from the mrs since 2011. Build thread

  28. #67
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    It's supposed to do that..

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    [Dave B], StaceyS3, Sam_ and 1 others like this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    If you fit a split-r I will ban you from ASN

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    Ah fry, excellent, um, but no, mine is holding boost fine? (and appears to be completely sealed) I don't understand what you are trying to say? If mine is not doing any of these things, then, well, it isn't doing any of these things? I feel sorry for him, his video looks like his unit is defect, but mine isn't?

  30. #69
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    Just before I leave this thread, can I ask you for your address?

    I need to send you an invoice for the bandwidth of mine you have wasted...
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

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    If you pay me back ph for the time I spent here? :D

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    "I had one of these on my old agu golf. When i had it on the rollers i tried it atmospheric first , then re-circ. When in atmos there was a 15 bhp deficit compared to re-circ. I was so shocked i threw the trumpet part away lol[:DD]"

    just taken from UKMKIVs forum, im guess no mater how many people with years of experience and engineering on these engines tell you to avoid these valves that you will still be sticking with it. but as i said earlier, nobody here runs them so you will not be able to get help setting it up correctly.
    2001 1.8T Quattro Sport 89k covered ARY engine.
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    Soon to be done: SAI delete, Install the toyosport FMIC i have kicking about in my living room

  33. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maty J View Post
    If you pay me back ph for the time I spent here? :D
    Surely you get a disability living allowence to cover your apparent mental retardation?
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    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

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    Only if you pay me back ph, for the time I spent here? :D edit: or should I say wasted huh klappe

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    That's a clever one Klappe!

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    I wonder why you named the topic the way you did Maty?

    I'm not sure I believe you actually run one of these valves. Seems you're just bored and fancy an argument

    Maybe you do, I dunno

    Anyway if you wanna keep wearing corduroy then go ahead but no one here is gonna tell you which colour suits you best

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    I think maybe you are right, I didn't write the original post properly. I can assure you I definitely do run one of these fantastic valves. Im not arguing at all, I haven't yet, I think some people here are trying to make me? Which is very odd (?) People think that I was having a problem with my valve, or asking if it were in fact a decent valve, even though I never mentioned that I was having a problem, or questioned the integrity of the valve. Which again is very odd (?) I literally wanted click advice, perhaps I should have written: Forge splitter, how many clicks with you're right hand (not your left) clockwise, (that's the way a clock turns) from 0 (that's 1 lower than 1) etc then maybe I would have received something useful :S

  38. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maty J View Post
    I think maybe you are right, I didn't write the original post properly. I can assure you I definitely do run one of these fantastic valves. Im not arguing at all, I haven't yet, I think some people here are trying to make me? Which is very odd (?) People think that I was having a problem with my valve, or asking if it were in fact a decent valve, even though I never mentioned that I was having a problem, or questioned the integrity of the valve. Which again is very odd (?) I literally wanted click advice, perhaps I should have written: Forge splitter, how many clicks with you're right hand (not your left) clockwise, (that's the way a clock turns) from 0 (that's 1 lower than 1) etc then maybe I would have received something useful :S
    The thing is you have answered you own question when you posted this.

    Quote Originally Posted by Maty J View Post
    It is designed to rattle, typical setup instructions include setting it to 10, listen for the rattle then adjust until this dissipates and you have found your appropriate spring rate
    And I managed to find that info myself on google, (which your so great at using), it's on forge fitting instructions.

    But it still doesn't mean it's a good valve.
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  39. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maty J View Post
    I think maybe you are right, I didn't write the original post properly. I can assure you I definitely do run one of these fantastic valves. Im not arguing at all, I haven't yet, I think some people here are trying to make me? Which is very odd (?) People think that I was having a problem with my valve, or asking if it were in fact a decent valve, even though I never mentioned that I was having a problem, or questioned the integrity of the valve. Which again is very odd (?) I literally wanted click advice, perhaps I should have written: Forge splitter, how many clicks with you're right hand (not your left) clockwise, (that's the way a clock turns) from 0 (that's 1 lower than 1) etc then maybe I would have received something useful :S

    You could have asked this, you would have still not received the answer you wanted, nobody here would admit to running one of these valves. There is a guide on the seat OC message boards on setting them up, ask there.
    2001 1.8T Quattro Sport 89k covered ARY engine.
    Remapped at Badger 5, 213bhp - 235lb/ft torque.
    HS2K cone, FMDV008, Silicon TIP, 18" RS4 (reps), AP coilovers, Catch can, n249 bypass, Toyosport 3" Downpipe/Decat, S3 Front brakes, Polyflexed Dogbone, S3dave adjustable tie bars

    Soon to be done: SAI delete, Install the toyosport FMIC i have kicking about in my living room

  40. #79
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    You're American, and you prob think your car is 225 at the WHEELS anyway, so run it. You will then be at the stock powers we see at the fly.

    Best of luck in your future endeavours. You are one of lifes champions.

  41. #80
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    P.s. Does anyone else think its really sad that threads and discussions with new members end like this. Or start like this rather.
    I mean this forum is fairly 'tight' and a small family and new people are always joining the fold.
    Its just a shame some people are so ignorant and incompetent that you build such a negative reputation in the space of a few hours.

    I mean maybe, just maybe, you are a mature, level headed guy with common sense who isn't so bad to be around.
    Or, you're an amaeba.

    Your initial rudeness is what's stunned everyone, forget the slit-R crap

 

 
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