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Thread: Running in new rods, advice

  1. #1
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    Running in new rods, advice

    Picking my car up saturday after having new rods fitted.and new bearings rings etc. I know he has used mineral oil so just after advice how to drive it and how many miles to do on the mineral oils. Any help would he awesome thanks. Daz

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    Thrash it!

    Disconnect the N75, build the throttle up to 4K and give it 2000rpm of throttle then off.

    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AfT2EsRxTaA

    That's Prawns car within 10 miles of a rebuild.

    The high cylinder pressures will bed the rings in better, and faster than almost any other bedding in process. Its far more modern than just taking it easy.

    Change the oil at 50, 100, 200, 300, 500 miles.

    I'm sure people will say to do it different, but that's the way most are going now.
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    Pretty much exactly what i was told so thanks for that. Top man. Im hoping i can chose one of those mile intervals you suggested and you dont mean i have to do each one lol
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    Just put a magnetic drain plug in then you dont have to do as many oil changes i did 100 500 then changed to normal at 1000

    Rods dont really need running in i presume you mean rings?

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    Quote Originally Posted by daz-20vt View Post
    Pretty much exactly what i was told so thanks for that. Top man. Im hoping i can chose one of those mile intervals you suggested and you dont mean i have to do each one lol
    He means all of them, but that's a BIT much.

    Certainly change it after 50 miles, this is fairly vital as that'll be the worst lot to come out.

    I changed mine at 50 miles, then again at 300 for fully synth and off I went. Worked great for me.
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    Ive no idea what i mean lol. I guess so? The mechanic said pretty much what you guys have i was just checking. So i really need to do a few. Ill chase him up about the drain plug. Im having a baffled sump fitted next time so it will he flushed through well id have thought?

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    Wow.thoght he was joking lol. Ok ill ask. I think its on 50 miles as he was driving it. Cheers guys

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    i did my oil at 25, 100, 250, 500, 750 then fully synth at 1000.

    First two oil drains the oil was like metallic paint, so i certainly wouldnt be extending the interval.

    I just got 4 bottles of 10w40 mineral oil from wilko and a pile of filters, cheap really when you consider the money put into the engine...


    As Jardo says, break it in hard, i did my break-in over 25miles, starting off doing 50% throttle pulls in 3rd gear from about 2000 to 4000rpm, then slowly building it up to full throttle pulls all the way to the red line over about 15miles. After each pull let the engine run back down on maximum vacuum rather than changing up a gear or declutching, and then drive smoothly for a minute before doing the next pull.

    The interesting thing was you could feel the engine getting more powerful. First pull felt flat as a fart, and each subsequent pull you could feel it getting stronger.

    After that was complete i changed the oil then drove it normally, the only thing i avoided was steady state running, ie sat on a motorway at 70 on cruise for long periods of time. I put the N75 back on when i switched back to fully synth oil.
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    I did mine at 20 & 50 with mineral then at 250 stick in fully synth with filter change every time. I'm very happy with my engine
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    I will be doing as slowcoach has.

    Bedding of rings is done pretty quickly if youre using the hard method.

    Id also like to do a change once its warmed up and checked for leaks, THEN go out do the 20mile thrash on the second lot of mineral.
    Heard theres alot of metal caught when its first run even when its not been broken in on the road.

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    On my 106 Rallye Turbo, we started it up and mapped the idle and low throttle stuff, changed oil, finished mapping of wide open throttle etc, changed oil. Then i did it again after a couple hundred miles. it doesnt need anymore than that.

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    Loads of help here thanks guys. One more thing. Is there any reason why the mechanic who fitted all this should do the oil changes. As he isnt exactly local so on these intervals it would be a pain!! In fact ill hit nearly 50 miles coming home, Thanks again!! Daz

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    i used to do a bit of work at fords on the engine test cells

    newly built engines get run at tick over for about 1 minute to check basic parameters, then bamm! full load

    cycles between idle and fullload for about 20 minutes, fluids drained and off it goes to assembly

    i thought they were mad the first time i saw it, seems to work for them.
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    Quote Originally Posted by daz-20vt View Post
    Loads of help here thanks guys. One more thing. Is there any reason why the mechanic who fitted all this should do the oil changes. As he isnt exactly local so on these intervals it would be a pain!! In fact ill hit nearly 50 miles coming home, Thanks again!! Daz
    Nope, do it yourself. It's only an oil and filter change.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by newbster View Post
    i used to do a bit of work at fords on the engine test cells

    newly built engines get run at tick over for about 1 minute to check basic parameters, then bamm! full load

    cycles between idle and fullload for about 20 minutes, fluids drained and off it goes to assembly

    i thought they were mad the first time i saw it, seems to work for them.
    how long on full load? full load at varying revs or fixed revs?
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    i don't recall all the details, this was a while ago

    i was just gobsmaked the first time i saw it.
    the whole test cycle was about 20 minutes, fully automated, impressive to watch

    never actaully saw one go pop, says a lot for the QC

 

 

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