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Thread: tips for putting cams back in please..

  1. #1
    superkarl's Avatar
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    tips for putting cams back in please..

    Is there any pointers for putting cams and the tensioner and chain back in, and getting it timed up right etc. 16 rollers thats all i know. Exhaust cam in first with chain on, then muscle the inlet one in with tensioner compressed?

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  3. #2
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    I wrote about this in my thread dude... when I did the cam swap on the ADR's and the VVT replacement..

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    What I do,
    I lay the cams on a table with the chain 16 rollers apart between the marks, then I slide the tensioner in position, then I carefully carry the whole setup and place it in the head. It can be tricky on your own, an extra pair of hands makes it easier.

    Make sure you get the vvt gasket and half moon done just before you are about to pick up the cam assembly.

  5. #4
    superkarl's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, il check out both your methods, see what i can do.
    Is the torque setting for cam cap bolts in your thread too tuffty?

  6. #5
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    Thanks guys, il check out both your methods, see what i can do.
    Is the torque setting for cam cap bolts in your thread too tuffty?
    10nm for caps... although I would be tempted to use new bolts based on my experience...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    10nm for caps... although I would be tempted to use new bolts based on my experience...

    <tuffty/>
    just dont keep going over them again and again and again until they stop moving!

    torque then Stop!
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  8. #7
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    A copy and paste

    1.8L Engine
    Fig. 1: Exploded view of the camshaft mounting and related components — 1.8L engine

    1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
    2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    4. Place the lock carrier into the service position.
    5. Remove or disconnect the following:
    * Accessory drive belts
    * Engine covers
    * Timing belt upper cover
    6. Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC).
    7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    * Timing belt tensioner by loosening it using Torx® wrench T45
    * Belt from the camshaft gear by pushing the tensioner downward
    * Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward
    * Valve cover
    * Cam gear retaining bolt by loosening it using retainer tool 3036
    * Camshaft gear
    * Camshaft Position (CMP) housing sensor and shutter wheel
    * Hydraulic chain tensioner by securing it with bracket tensioner tool 3366Fig. 2: Do not overtighten the chain tensioner tool 3366, it can be damaged — 1.8L

    8. Verify that the camshafts are at TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. Both camshaft markings must align with arrows on the bearing caps.
    9. Clean the drive chain and the cam chain gears opposite both arrows on the bearing caps. Matchmark the installed position using paint.
    NOTE: The distance between the 2 arrows/paint marks is equivalent to 16 drive chain rollers and the notch on the exhaust camshaft is slightly offset inward toward the drive chain roller.
    Fig. 3: To ensure proper installation, matchmark the chain-to-camshaft position — 1.8L


    Fig. 4: Camshaft bearing cap identification — 1.8L engine


    10. Remove or disconnect the following:
    * Bearing caps No. 3 and 5 from the intake and exhaust camshafts
    * Double bearing cap
    * Both bearing caps from the chain gears on the intake and exhaust camshafts
    * Hydraulic chain tensioner retaining bolts
    * Intake and exhaust manifold bearing caps No. 2 and 4 by loosening them in an alternating and diagonal sequence
    * Camshafts with the hydraulic chain tensioner
    To install:
    Fig. 5: To ensure a proper seal, be sure to apply sealant to the hatched area — 1.8L


    11. Replace the rubber/metal chain tensioner gasket and apply sealant to the hatched area, as shown.
    12. Install or connect the following:
    * Drive chain on the camshaft
    NOTE: If installing the old chain, align the paint marks with the camshaft marks. If installing a new chain, the distance between the notches A and B on the camshafts must equal the distance between 16 drive chain rollers.
    * Hydraulic chain tensioner by sliding it between the drive chain
    * Camshafts with the chain tensioner lubricated with engine oil into the cylinder head
    NOTE: When installing the bearing caps, verify the markings on the caps are readable from the intake side of the cylinder head.
    * Intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps No. 2 and 4. Tighten them in an alternating diagonal sequence to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    * Both the intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps on the chain sprockets. Tighten the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    13. Verify the correct positions of the camshafts.
    14. Remove the bracket tensioner.
    15. Install or connect the following:
    * Cylinder head-to-double bearing cap mating surface by lightly coating it with sealant. Tighten the remaining bearing caps to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    * Camshaft gear. Tighten the bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
    * CMP shutter wheel and housing cover
    * Valve cover
    16. Align the camshaft gear and the vibration damper with the TDC markings.
    17. Install or connect the following:
    * Timing belt
    * Accessory drive belts and the engine cover
    * Lock carrier
    * Negative battery cable
    18. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one-touch opening/closing function
    CAUTION
    After installing the lifters or the camshaft(s), the engine must NOT be started for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise the valves could strike the pistons. Rotate the engine by hand, at least 2 revolutions, to ensure that the valves do not strike the pistons.


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  9. #8
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badger5 View Post
    just dont keep going over them again and again and again until they stop moving!

    torque then Stop!
    That too

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  10. #9
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    Karl, my method is as follows:

    - Get tinned up, around 6 lagers should be enough.

    - Get the tunes pumping

    - Get a mate round and crack it out

    Seriously though I think Tam and I just followed a bit of Elsawin and took lots of pics of the head before the cams were removed. I was swapping mine from a BAM head to an AEB. Elsawin came in very helpful for the entire engine build over the weekend and it will give you all the torque settings you need too.
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  11. #10
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    Fred- i dont need 6 beers, 2 and im pissed as a fart - tunes ive got- was alone today working on the headWill get more done in the morning but actually putting the cams in might be left for next week.
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  12. #11
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    ok, in wish I could be at the stage where im putting cams in

    BUT HOW THE FLYING **** DO YOU PUT THE VALVE KEEPERS IN!!!???

  13. #12
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Blob of grease on a terminal screwdriver or magnetise it... I use a pick and a bit of stainless or ali welding rod as they sometimes need to be coaxed off.. requiring two hands

    20v heads are so much fun...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  14. #13
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    this is driving me insane!!!

  15. #14
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    They will do that... patience is key with the buggers... especially the inlets

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  16. #15
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    1 down, 19 to go!

    Im only doing the exhaust now, how the hell are the inlets even possible?

  17. #16
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    patience
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  18. #17
    Scullies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    ok, in wish I could be at the stage where im putting cams in

    BUT HOW THE FLYING **** DO YOU PUT THE VALVE KEEPERS IN!!!???
    its easy dude, watch my video, done in no time


  19. #18
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    But im not as fast as that! After i did my first exhaust one the rest took 15mins.
    Only tried an inlet before giving up and heading off for work

  20. #19
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    When you say "valve keepers", are they the collets or something else?
    Handling mods++. HTA3582 stroker soon-ish. Hiding parts from the mrs since 2011. Build thread

  21. #20
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    Yeh, collets, keepers, same thing.

  22. #21
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    Ahhhh first time I've heard them called that. I've always used a flathead screwdriver with a touch of grease on. Also helps to put a touch on the collet/keeper so it sticks to the valve while you do the other side.
    Handling mods++. HTA3582 stroker soon-ish. Hiding parts from the mrs since 2011. Build thread

  23. #22
    superkarl's Avatar
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    yeh thats what i did, its like an adults version of the game operation, very very hard on the inlets, so little room.
    Quite theraputic tho once i got the hang of it on the exhausts

 

 

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