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Thread: K- nuts - Slimline and strong locking nuts.

  1. #1
    superkarl's Avatar
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    K- nuts - Slimline and strong locking nuts.

    Came across these in my search for little parts.
    These are ideal for me tapping my manifold for M10 studs, and space will be very limited, so these requiring a 12mm spanner are ideal:
    https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s...tenings/k-nuts
    Should make life easier in tight spaces.

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Nords....

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    superkarl's Avatar
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    my ultimate plan is this:
    M10
    K-nuts
    nords
    punch the threads above the nut

    i needed slim nuts so it would clear my turbine housing, think il still have to get the dremel on it but not as much.

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Yeah... I remember it being tight on that hotside when I had one on mine... the T3 I have now is much better for clearance even when drilled at M10 with a T25 pattern

    Bill is mapping a GTX2867r on an Ibiza at the moment

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    superkarl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post

    Bill is mapping a GTX2867r on an Ibiza at the moment

    <tuffty/>
    I know, been watching the guys thread like a hawk. Commented last night too when he posted the first dyno plots.
    My initial impressions arent good, hugely laggy, but the lad is running the larger hotside which isnt largely recommended by many people.

    I just hope to god i dont go blowing gaskets and the likes, hence doing my upmost to keep the thing together, first time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    my ultimate plan is this:
    M10
    K-nuts
    nords
    punch the threads above the nut

    i needed slim nuts so it would clear my turbine housing, think il still have to get the dremel on it but not as much.

    In the aircraft industry, they drill a small hole through the stud and wire lock the nut on. Simple design and works very well. Yet to have a wing fall off on me ;-) kind of like a split pin but without the agro of the pins.

    also I'm using these on the tfsi conversion, again space was limited..

    SCHNORR SERRATED STEEL LOCKING WASHERS M8 ( 50 ) KITCAR | eBay

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    superkarl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    In the aircraft industry, they drill a small hole through the stud and wire lock the nut on. Simple design and works very well. Yet to have a wing fall off on me ;-) kind of like a split pin but without the agro of the pins.

    also I'm using these on the tfsi conversion, again space was limited..

    SCHNORR SERRATED STEEL LOCKING WASHERS M8 ( 50 ) KITCAR | eBay
    my mate did that on his manifold for his SX, 1mm hole through both the stud and nut, then wire through both.

    Do you prefer those washers to nordlocks?

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    I know, been watching the guys thread like a hawk. Commented last night too when he posted the first dyno plots.
    My initial impressions arent good, hugely laggy, but the lad is running the larger hotside which isnt largely recommended by many people.

    I just hope to god i dont go blowing gaskets and the likes, hence doing my upmost to keep the thing together, first time.
    the 0.86? yeah... had a GT2871 in the other weekend that was on one of those... noticeably laggier... more so than my GT3071 on a 0.63...

    It made power though... I suspect on the 0.64 housing you have you will get the spool but lose on the top end power at peak revs... still pretty nice figures...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    superkarl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    the 0.86? yeah... had a GT2871 in the other weekend that was on one of those... noticeably laggier... more so than my GT3071 on a 0.63...

    It made power though... I suspect on the 0.64 housing you have you will get the spool but lose on the top end power at peak revs... still pretty nice figures...

    <tuffty/>
    yeh .86.
    I expect less top end with the .64, i just hope its not laggy, or il be forced to get a stroker kit.
    This is interesting:
    GTX2867 .86 A/R vs .64 A/R Turbine Dyno
    Not much in it between the two housings, but both laggier than id want tbh.

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    beachbuggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    my mate did that on his manifold for his SX, 1mm hole through both the stud and nut, then wire through both.

    Do you prefer those washers to nordlocks?
    dont need a hole through both stud and nut, just stud. It's easier.

    i used these as they are a lot thinner and I was tight on space, I don't think noted locks would have fitted in. We're using Allen bolts rather than studs and nuts on the tfsi setup anyway so they are locite in as well.

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    superkarl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    dont need a hole through both stud and nut, just stud. It's easier.

    i used these as they are a lot thinner and I was tight on space, I don't think noted locks would have fitted in. We're using Allen bolts rather than studs and nuts on the tfsi setup anyway so they are locite in as well.
    if i've got the space down there i might consider drilling the studs then.
    Thanks for the link to the washers.

    P.s. did you get my pm in regards to the actuator arm?

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    Without a boost plot its tricky to put context to that tbh

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    if i've got the space down there i might consider drilling the studs then.
    Thanks for the link to the washers.

    P.s. did you get my pm in regards to the actuator arm?
    Maybe ;-) what did it say?

  15. #14
    superkarl's Avatar
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    It basically said the actuator arm you sent is too small a thread, and i xan send it back, and do you have any others?

    My actuator is 6mm i think. The part you sent must be 5 or something. Or i might require 5 and its 4. Ive not measured

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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    my ultimate plan is this:
    M10
    K-nuts
    nords
    punch the threads above the nut
    just weld them

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    s3dave's Avatar
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    Would have thought it was far to hot for locktite to be effective, but i suppose it all helps

    These will take some beating Karlos..similar to OEM

    M10 10mm copper flashed self locking nut pack of 10 | eBay

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    superkarl's Avatar
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    Thats what im using on the manifold, and some on the downpipe. But for the turbo-mani theyre too chunky, they require what, a 14mm spanner at least. The k-nuts are slimline and ideal for exhausts/turbos/manifolds where space is tight, whilst still utilising the extra clamping force of M10.

    Its tight on my t25 housing, il have pics soon enough

  19. #18
    Morgan-VAGCHECK's Avatar
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    Hi,

    I would avoid those K nuts Merlin sells for this application, as they are not rated for very high temps.

    You can get high temp ones from Demon Tweaks or Raceparts & the like if you are set on using K nuts...

    Like this >

    Demon Tweeks Metric Hi Temp Aerospace Locknut (K-Nut) - Demon Tweeks

    One other thing don't go mad torquing them up either... they are not designed for much torque at all.

    Regards
    Morgan
    superkarl likes this.

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    www.badger5.co.uk

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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    yeh .86.
    I expect less top end with the .64, i just hope its not laggy, or il be forced to get a stroker kit.
    This is interesting:
    GTX2867 .86 A/R vs .64 A/R Turbine Dyno
    Not much in it between the two housings, but both laggier than id want tbh.
    the ibiza one
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    Thanks for that morgan! High temp ones it is

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    Quote Originally Posted by superkarl View Post
    Thanks for that morgan! High temp ones it is
    And as he says they need to be torqued up and not done up FT. It's why jardo thinks they are rubbish as his experience is from them been done up too tight and them splitting...

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    For wire locking:-

    Get one of these to drill a small hole across flats.

    4180-177.jpg

    Then you can make as many wire lockable nuts/bolts as you like, High Tensile and all (with quality drill bits)

    Worked for me where Nords failed, perfect

  24. #23
    superkarl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    And as he says they need to be torqued up and not done up FT. It's why jardo thinks they are rubbish as his experience is from them been done up too tight and them splitting...
    does anyone have any input on what these need to be torqued to in order to be tight yet not so tight they split???

    Btw they are sooo compact, they require a 12mm spanner/socket which is smaller than an M8 nut. It makes converting to M10 piss easy for my internal gate housing, no clearence issues, should be a breeze to get to and tighten.
    Ive got a supply of those Schnorr washers in M10 and M8 so will use them where i can, as well as punching the threads above the nut once tight. Dont think il drill the studs...yet.
    Mani is being drilled and tapped this week, got a mate doing it on a pillar drill with an 8.5mm bit, got a 10mm tap at home.

 

 

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