have i broken my key fob?

JUS3IN

JUS3IN

14.0 @ 98mph 2s 60ft
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hey all, popped into a local key cutting place yesterday because my central locking fob was getting low now the fob doesnt work? when i changed the batterys it was a right struggle sliding the cover off so i think i may have damaged something, i must have done it wrong....t sliding just the one flap off???

since then ive tryed various methods of recoding the frequency and nothing is working. ive followed all the steps on ross-tech to the word on recoding the key still no joy!

so ive tryed all the put it in the door lock unlock push buttons while my non central locking spare was in the ignition.

ive wiped the keys on rosstech by saving 00 in adaptation, then entered the 21 , changed the amount of keys to 1, then save and hold the unlock on the key dont get any horn beep or light flash and the key still doesnt work... enter 21 in adaptation again and it says no keys registered if you know what i mean...

getting the feeling ive broke something, or is there anything else to try?? i only have one fob that works in the ignition only, one metal spare that works, and the plastic master... thought maybe the new batterys could be flat, i left the old ones at timpsons like a div!!!

any help her much appreciated people... how much is a new key from audi?
 
My friends old mk4 GTI fob fell apart and I think a replacement for him was around £70. I'd buy a non oem one and just get that cut and coded though...
 
About 170 and 5-15 day wait at audi iirc. I could do you 2 for the same price and include travel costs! Complete keys with remotes etc and coded. Do you know your cars skc codes? I can also test hour remote too.
 
If all you need is the remote part it isn't going to cost £170. Just get your remote tested with an RF tester. If it's dead you can just buy the remote part & program it yourself witj VCDS.

I have an RF tester so if you want post your remote to me & I'll test it. All I ask is you cover return postage costs. As for remote type you'd need 4d0837231n or a. Either will work with your year car
 
I assume by not working you mean not unlocking the car? it starts the car ok?

Have you re-sync'd it to the car?

Have to do this if you remove the batteries...

Its in the owners handbook how to do it... can't remember off hand but can look it up when I am home later...

<tuffty/>
 
craigynett said:
If all you need is the remote part it isn't going to cost £170. Just get your remote tested with an RF tester. If it's dead you can just buy the remote part & program it yourself witj VCDS.

I have an RF tester so if you want post your remote to me & I'll test it. All I ask is you cover return postage costs. As for remote type you'd need 4d0837231n or a. Either will work with your year car
Click to expand...

cheers mate i may well do this, i am pretty certain its knackered tho... i wedged the battery over off like an ape and im pretty sure put lots off force on the circuit bourd like an idiot!
 
<tuffty/> said:
I assume by not working you mean not unlocking the car? it starts the car ok?

Have you re-sync'd it to the car?

Have to do this if you remove the batteries...

Its in the owners handbook how to do it... can't remember off hand but can look it up when I am home later...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

hey tuffty, the key starts the car fine, ive followed the instructions on the ross-tech website to the word. ive also wiped all remotes and started fresh and nothing...

heres the procedure for vcds...


Procedure for matching radio-frequency remote controls to many VW & Audi vehicles:
Check the Ross-Tech Wiki under Diagnostic Procedures for instructions specific to your vehicle.
Gather ALL the remotes you would like to match. Insert one key in the ignition and turn it ON.
[Select]

[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] (whichever is applicable to the car, as found here)

[Adaptation - 10]

Enter channel "01" (May be channel "21" in some Audi models).

[Read]

This will display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value".

Enter your total number of keys up to a maximum of 4(including any existing keys) in "New Value"

[Test]

Verify that the number in "Test Value" is correct.

[Save]
Then press and hold (for at least one second) the UNLOCK button on the fob, at which time it will be learned. If you're programming more than one fob press and hold the UNLOCK button on the second fob for one second, press and hold the UNLOCK button on the third fob for one second, etc. You have a total of 15 seconds to do them all.
The car may give you some sort of acknowledgement as each key is learned (lights flash, horn beep, etc.)
If the above procedure does not work (neither Channel 01 nor Channel 21 are available), follow this procedure:
Insert a working (old) key in the ignition and turn to the ON position (do not start car).
[Select]

[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] (whichever is applicable to the car, as found here)
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Enter group "003" (may be group "007" in some vehicles)
[Go!]
The value in field 2 shows how many remotes have been matched and in which memory positions (for example, "0001" indicates 1 transmitter in position 1).
Lock the car from outside using the new, unmatched key in the driver-side door lock. You may need to hold the key in the unlock position while you do the next step.
Press the UNLOCK button on the new key within 5 seconds often enough to reach next memory position (so, if the value in field 2 was 0001, you should press the new key's unlock button twice, to put the new key in memory position 2)..
The car may give you some sort of acknowledgement as the button is pressed (lights flash, horn beep, etc.)
Wait 5 seconds and press the unlock button on the new key to unlock the door.
Turn the ignition key to OFF and remove the old key.

Press LOCK and UNLOCK with the new key.
Insert the new key in the ignition and turn to the ON position (do not start car).
[Select]

[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] (whichever is applicable to the car, as found here)
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Enter group "003"
[Go!]
The value in field 2 should now indicate 0011 in the example used, showing the old key still matched in position 1 and the new key matched in position 2.

Make sure that new keys are always coded into free memory positions (where there is a zero in Group 003, field 2). If occupied positions (distinguishable by a "1") are used, the transmitter previously coded to this position will no longer work.
In some cases, it may be necessary to clear out existing matched remotes using the following procedure:
[Select]

[46 - Cent. Conv.] or [35 - Cent. Locking] (whichever is applicable to the car, as found here)
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter channel "00"
[Read]

[Save]
When the prompt asks if you are sure you want to save a value of 0 to Channel 00, click [Yes]
After doing so, no remotes will be matched. You'll need to follow the appropriate above procedure to match all of the remotes.
 
You don't have to do any of that...

Trying to remember the procedure but I believe its as simple as lock car with key then press remote button for at least 5 secs within 30secs of locking door... indicators should flash IIRC to indicate its been accepted

Will look up the actual procedure later as I am not at home atm... you may have to have one key in the ignition with it on too but can't remember off hand

<tuffty/>
 
...and think about it... you don't have to go through all that VCDS malarky to re-sync keys else every Audi owner in the world would need to own VCDS or go to a dealer every time the batteries in their remote went flat... not really a practical is it :p

<tuffty/>
 
i only have 1 flip key, the spare which is just a normal key(with a chip i imagine) and the plastic master... ive tryed lots of the normal manual methods too but an exact procedure is worth a go tuffty if you have it mate...

i went to a boot fair earlier and the ****** silent alarm kept going off when i put stuff in the boot or got in and didnt start it staright away, stays on until you start it... could get annoying. also the other doors dont unlock until you start it or hit the manual switch on the door, its like living back with my mk1 golf but worse lol...
 
dont need 2 keys for manual resync. ive done it with 1 many times after my keys go through the wash and i need to replace the battery.

try this

1. Get in the car, wind the drivers window down.
2. start the car - or go to the on position (i had to start it to stop the alarm going off after getting in using the key in the door)
3. take the key out and lock the door by turning it in the lock (while sitting in the car)
4. press the unlock button once
5. wait 5 seconds press unlock again
6. then press lock
7. take the key out the lock and it should now work.
 
never tried it with VCDS. the first time my key went through the wash i was in a bit of a panic as i only have 1 key. but luckily the above worked and since then ive done it a few more times.
 
Tried manually on a seat a few weeks back, didnt work but vcds clears and recodes unless some other problem is present.
 
Here you go...

20130811_194747.jpg


<tuffty/>
 
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I have had to do this once before when I changed the batteries and work as described in the book for me...

<tuffty/>
 
cheers tuffty, mine must be broken cause ive tryed every which way and it shoulda re synced by now... craig is sending me a new fob now so i'll just swap my blade into that new one, fingers crossed...
 
new fob all working now, when you re sync it with vcds it flashes up on screen recognised!-) the old one was glued in so must have been loose and the previous owner 'fixed' it lol...
 
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