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  1. #1
    Vex182's Avatar
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    Changed drop links and stripped a thread!

    Got round to changing my rear drop links today, did the near side and all was well, got the off side off ok but when doing the bottom bolt back on, it started to slip about 1/2 in, undid the bolt and out comes threads! It was gt-85'd before they were removed and copper greased when going back in. The bolt screws in straight enough without the shock so I know it was not cross threaded anyway. I guess my best bet is a new lower shock bolt and try and retap the thread? Really annoyed about this!
    Silver 2002 Audi S3 225 (BAM) since March 2011.

    Mods: Badger5 2.2 TIP, Jetex filter, PCV delete, 710 DV, N249 bypass, R-Tech Stage 1 TiV Remap, Audi TT Pedals, Red Dogbone, Polybushed tie arms. All silicone boost pipes, Michelin PS3s, Red V6 coil packs, MK4 flat blade conversion, retrofited cruise control.
    Currently: 254bhp - 276lb/ft (174bhp/ton) as of 11/02/2013 On V-Power

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  3. #2
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    Or do what I did and use a longer bolt and nut. Simples.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

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    Vex182's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani_B19 View Post
    Or do what I did and use a longer bolt and nut. Simples.
    ive just been thinking of this, everything all good? What length have you gone for approx? 22mm nut?
    Silver 2002 Audi S3 225 (BAM) since March 2011.

    Mods: Badger5 2.2 TIP, Jetex filter, PCV delete, 710 DV, N249 bypass, R-Tech Stage 1 TiV Remap, Audi TT Pedals, Red Dogbone, Polybushed tie arms. All silicone boost pipes, Michelin PS3s, Red V6 coil packs, MK4 flat blade conversion, retrofited cruise control.
    Currently: 254bhp - 276lb/ft (174bhp/ton) as of 11/02/2013 On V-Power

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    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    Christ mate aint got a clue, happened about 2 gears ago and its been apart loads and still perfect, used same size bolt just longer that I had.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  6. #5
    Vex182's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani_B19 View Post
    Christ mate aint got a clue, happened about 2 gears ago and its been apart loads and still perfect, used same size bolt just longer that I had.
    Thanks anyway, ill have a look in my lunch hour tomorrow and see what I can do.
    Silver 2002 Audi S3 225 (BAM) since March 2011.

    Mods: Badger5 2.2 TIP, Jetex filter, PCV delete, 710 DV, N249 bypass, R-Tech Stage 1 TiV Remap, Audi TT Pedals, Red Dogbone, Polybushed tie arms. All silicone boost pipes, Michelin PS3s, Red V6 coil packs, MK4 flat blade conversion, retrofited cruise control.
    Currently: 254bhp - 276lb/ft (174bhp/ton) as of 11/02/2013 On V-Power

  7. #6
    2nd Gear

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    The OEM bolts are high tensile, so try and find a longer high tensile bolt.

    Not going to end well if you hit a pot hole and it snaps!

  8. #7
    Vex182's Avatar
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    I've ordered some 120mm M14 bolts as the 100mm I got earlier was a bit short. Best I could get was 8.8s, should be beefy enough?
    Silver 2002 Audi S3 225 (BAM) since March 2011.

    Mods: Badger5 2.2 TIP, Jetex filter, PCV delete, 710 DV, N249 bypass, R-Tech Stage 1 TiV Remap, Audi TT Pedals, Red Dogbone, Polybushed tie arms. All silicone boost pipes, Michelin PS3s, Red V6 coil packs, MK4 flat blade conversion, retrofited cruise control.
    Currently: 254bhp - 276lb/ft (174bhp/ton) as of 11/02/2013 On V-Power

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vex182 View Post
    I've ordered some 120mm M14 bolts as the 100mm I got earlier was a bit short. Best I could get was 8.8s, should be beefy enough?
    8.8 should be fine, doubt the OEM ones are any higher rated than that.

  10. #9
    Vex182's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimS3 View Post
    8.8 should be fine, doubt the OEM ones are any higher rated than that.
    t

    Thats good then, it seems the maximum torque should be around 140nm and I need to do them to 125nm.
    Silver 2002 Audi S3 225 (BAM) since March 2011.

    Mods: Badger5 2.2 TIP, Jetex filter, PCV delete, 710 DV, N249 bypass, R-Tech Stage 1 TiV Remap, Audi TT Pedals, Red Dogbone, Polybushed tie arms. All silicone boost pipes, Michelin PS3s, Red V6 coil packs, MK4 flat blade conversion, retrofited cruise control.
    Currently: 254bhp - 276lb/ft (174bhp/ton) as of 11/02/2013 On V-Power

  11. #10
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    Those bottom shock mounts sit at such a weird angle it's hard getting them lined up 100%.

    I've noticed most suspension related bolts seem to be 10.9 or 12.9. Probably worth trying to get something a little beefier.
    Handling mods++. GTX30 soon-ish. Hiding parts from the mrs since 2011. Build thread

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam_ View Post
    Those bottom shock mounts sit at such a weird angle it's hard getting them lined up 100%.

    I've noticed most suspension related bolts seem to be 10.9 or 12.9. Probably worth trying to get something a little beefier.
    Not aware any 12.9 bolts being used on VAG suspension, even the TDI head bolts with their high compression are only 10.9.

    Suppose using 10.9 would give peace of mind, but I can't see a bolt as big as M14 in 8.8 grade snapping with this application.

  13. #12
    Vex182's Avatar
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    Cheers, well the bolts should be here tomorrow so ill give them a go anyway, if not ill have to try and find something else.
    Silver 2002 Audi S3 225 (BAM) since March 2011.

    Mods: Badger5 2.2 TIP, Jetex filter, PCV delete, 710 DV, N249 bypass, R-Tech Stage 1 TiV Remap, Audi TT Pedals, Red Dogbone, Polybushed tie arms. All silicone boost pipes, Michelin PS3s, Red V6 coil packs, MK4 flat blade conversion, retrofited cruise control.
    Currently: 254bhp - 276lb/ft (174bhp/ton) as of 11/02/2013 On V-Power

  14. #13
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    Apologies for reviving an oldish thread, but this happened to my rear shock mount a couple of days ago too.

    I did a temporary fix with a mild steel M14 120mm nut and bolt I had in the garage, and then drove very steadily to the nearest engineering supplies place.

    The best bolt they had for the job was an M14 130mm 8.8 strength with matching high tensile nyloc nut, all for the princely sum of £1.75.

    I managed to clean up the head of the old bolt and could see it was 10.9 strength, and I mentioned this to the engineering place.

    Obviously, his official advice was to replace with the same strength bolt, but that a brand new 8.8 bolt was likely to be stronger than a 12 year old 10.9 bolt anyway.

    I got the one with a shoulder that the drop link and shock sit on, and I ground off about 10mm to make it a neater fit.

    I've since found a place online that does 10.9 nuts and bolts, so might get a couple as I suspect the other side might do the same one day.

    Interestingly, the mild steel bolt had not deformed at all, but clearly wouldn't have lasted long term, I did it only as a fix to get me mobile again to fetch the new bolts, and I don't recommend it!
    Audi S3 - 2002MY - Denim Blue

  15. #14
    Vex182's Avatar
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    I used a 8.8 in the end and all has been well since I fitted it with a locknut on the end.
    Silver 2002 Audi S3 225 (BAM) since March 2011.

    Mods: Badger5 2.2 TIP, Jetex filter, PCV delete, 710 DV, N249 bypass, R-Tech Stage 1 TiV Remap, Audi TT Pedals, Red Dogbone, Polybushed tie arms. All silicone boost pipes, Michelin PS3s, Red V6 coil packs, MK4 flat blade conversion, retrofited cruise control.
    Currently: 254bhp - 276lb/ft (174bhp/ton) as of 11/02/2013 On V-Power

 

 

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