darko
Registered User
Anyone changed a shaft before ? seems easy enough at the gearbox end with tthe torx bolts - does anyone know the procedure at the hub end. Even better does anyone have any workshop pics / info / diags ? thanks
Drive Shafts...
- Thread starter darko
- Start date
I'm sure your local friendly HTC will be along soon, he's better at it than me... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/goofy.gif
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You rang? 
The drive shafts are pretty easy to swap.
The 6 inner bolts are nice and easy, but you need an extension to get a rachet past the rubber inner CV boot.
If you can get a mate to push on the brakes to hold everything steady it helps but you can do it on your own. Its quite easy to hold the wheel with your foot whilst you lay on your back and undo the bolts.
As for the outer 12 point bolt (30mm). Its very important that you don't loosen it any more than 90 degrees whilst the car is on the floor as the weight will damage the bearing.
The idea way is to jack the car up and as someone to hold the brakes. If thats not possible, loosen the nut a tiny amount with the car on the floor and then jack it up to undo it.
I use a block of wood that I wedge between the steering wheel and brake pedal to hold the brakes on.
Once both end are loose you won't be able to get the shaft ou until you loosen and remove either the track rod end bolt or the ball joint.
I find it easier to undo the steering joint, then push the shaft right in towards the gearbox and then trun the hub fully one way. You should be able to squeeze the outer joint from out behind the hub and then round to remove.
The benefit of doing it this way is that you don't have to get the tracking reset afterwards.
Refitting:
You need to replace the outer bolt or nut (depending on model), and smear a little grease on the splines and mating surface of the outer CV joint.
The tightening sequence is as follows:
Note:
Wheels must not be in contact with ground when tightening drive shaft
(bolt type)
* Have a second person press the brake.
* Tighten bolt to 240 Nm.
* Set vehicle down on its wheels.
* Tighten bolt further 90° turn.
* Slacken off bolt again by 90°.
* Raise vehicle.
* Slacken off bolt by a further 90°.
* Get friend to press the brake again brake.
* Tighten bolt to 240 Nm.
* Set vehicle down on its wheels.
* Give bolt further 90° turn.
(nut type)
* Have second person press brake.
* Tighten twelve-point nut to 200 Nm.
* Slacken off twelve-point nut by 360°(one turn).
* Tighten twelve-point nut to 50 Nm.
* Set vehicle down on its wheels.
* Give twelve-point nut further 60° turn.
Torque setting for 6 inner torx bolts is:
40Nm (8mm bolts)
70Nm (10mm bolts)
Hope that helps. Let me know if you get stuck.
The drive shafts are pretty easy to swap.
The 6 inner bolts are nice and easy, but you need an extension to get a rachet past the rubber inner CV boot.
If you can get a mate to push on the brakes to hold everything steady it helps but you can do it on your own. Its quite easy to hold the wheel with your foot whilst you lay on your back and undo the bolts.
As for the outer 12 point bolt (30mm). Its very important that you don't loosen it any more than 90 degrees whilst the car is on the floor as the weight will damage the bearing.
The idea way is to jack the car up and as someone to hold the brakes. If thats not possible, loosen the nut a tiny amount with the car on the floor and then jack it up to undo it.
I use a block of wood that I wedge between the steering wheel and brake pedal to hold the brakes on.
Once both end are loose you won't be able to get the shaft ou until you loosen and remove either the track rod end bolt or the ball joint.
I find it easier to undo the steering joint, then push the shaft right in towards the gearbox and then trun the hub fully one way. You should be able to squeeze the outer joint from out behind the hub and then round to remove.
The benefit of doing it this way is that you don't have to get the tracking reset afterwards.
Refitting:
You need to replace the outer bolt or nut (depending on model), and smear a little grease on the splines and mating surface of the outer CV joint.
The tightening sequence is as follows:
Note:
Wheels must not be in contact with ground when tightening drive shaft
(bolt type)
* Have a second person press the brake.
* Tighten bolt to 240 Nm.
* Set vehicle down on its wheels.
* Tighten bolt further 90° turn.
* Slacken off bolt again by 90°.
* Raise vehicle.
* Slacken off bolt by a further 90°.
* Get friend to press the brake again brake.
* Tighten bolt to 240 Nm.
* Set vehicle down on its wheels.
* Give bolt further 90° turn.
(nut type)
* Have second person press brake.
* Tighten twelve-point nut to 200 Nm.
* Slacken off twelve-point nut by 360°(one turn).
* Tighten twelve-point nut to 50 Nm.
* Set vehicle down on its wheels.
* Give twelve-point nut further 60° turn.
Torque setting for 6 inner torx bolts is:
40Nm (8mm bolts)
70Nm (10mm bolts)
Hope that helps. Let me know if you get stuck.
darko
Registered User
thanks for the advise, ill have a closer look at the weekend and if i have all the right tools have a go at it. your advise sounds good about removing the track rod not the ball joint ! im pretty sure its the nearside drive shaft thats gone so ill start with that side. one thing i was wondering was if it was worth doing the wheel bearings while im messing about with those bits ?
Just a quicky why are you changing a shaft?
Have you lowered the suspension past it's limits? Or just general wear and tear?
Have you lowered the suspension past it's limits? Or just general wear and tear?
darko
Registered User
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- Website
- www.b3ta.com
[ QUOTE ]
one thing i was wondering was if it was worth doing the wheel bearings while im messing about with those bits ?
[/ QUOTE ]
To replace the bearings involves the complete removal of the front hubs. You then need to take the hubs to a garage as it requires a hydraulic press with several tons of pressure to get them out.
If your bearings aren't making a noise and there is no play then just leave them. They should last for years and often the lifetime of the car.
one thing i was wondering was if it was worth doing the wheel bearings while im messing about with those bits ?
[/ QUOTE ]
To replace the bearings involves the complete removal of the front hubs. You then need to take the hubs to a garage as it requires a hydraulic press with several tons of pressure to get them out.
If your bearings aren't making a noise and there is no play then just leave them. They should last for years and often the lifetime of the car.
I've been told even most garages will go for the new hub route as it's cheaper after you take labour into account.
Khufu
Registered User
yup, sometimes it's cheaper! The usual, "oh it has just started to make a noise" loosely means its been howling for months now and the bearing is welded to the hub!
[ QUOTE ]
seems easy enough at the gearbox end with tthe torx bolts
[/ QUOTE ]
One small tip: I've done this lots on VWs, though not an A3- make sure the torx or spline key is fully seated into the bolt- I always clean them and tap it home gently with a hammer- as otherwise it's easy to strip the head, and they're a ****** to get out if you do.
Like someone else said, you shouldn't loosen the hub nut too much with the car on the ground(or worse, drive the car with it loosened) but I've never managed to loosen one with the car off the ground as they are tight, and usually rust on as well. I've used a long wrench and a length of scaffold pole in the past.
seems easy enough at the gearbox end with tthe torx bolts
[/ QUOTE ]
One small tip: I've done this lots on VWs, though not an A3- make sure the torx or spline key is fully seated into the bolt- I always clean them and tap it home gently with a hammer- as otherwise it's easy to strip the head, and they're a ****** to get out if you do.
Like someone else said, you shouldn't loosen the hub nut too much with the car on the ground(or worse, drive the car with it loosened) but I've never managed to loosen one with the car off the ground as they are tight, and usually rust on as well. I've used a long wrench and a length of scaffold pole in the past.
Khufu
Registered User
we alway stick it in 5th gear and get somebody to put their foot on the brake, thats is usualy cause we already have it on the ramp with the wheel off. As said, bit of scaffold pole onto the breaker bar helps too.......
darko
Registered User
still working on this one.... does anyone know the correct size torx key for the inner bolts ? i dont have anything that big so need to go and buy one - thanks
On older VWs/Audis it's not a torx: It's a 8mm 12-point spline key. Not certain with the a3 though.
darko
Registered User
thanks chrisb - that would explain why the torx wouldnt fit ! is this the sort of tool you can get from any tool shop ?
darko
Registered User
found it (i think) looks like it will make the job much easier to get to the bolts too !
http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1530&cat=278
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yes.gif
http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1530&cat=278
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yes.gif
darko
Registered User
ok - it seems like there are 8mm or 10mm versions - anyone know which one i need /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
perhaps this is why people take there cars to garages lol....
perhaps this is why people take there cars to garages lol....
That's the sort of thing. It's probably the 8mm you want- They've been 8mm since the 70s.
Most car shops will sell a spline key of one sort or another. I've not seen that one before, but longet ones are usually better so you can clear the CV boot.
Most car shops will sell a spline key of one sort or another. I've not seen that one before, but longet ones are usually better so you can clear the CV boot.
