Frozen Dash Dials

GarryX

GarryX

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Over the past couple of mornings when it has been really cold,when ive started the engine the dials on the dash dont move.Its as if they are frozen.As i drive they move every now and then.When i left the car till later in the day and tried it then the dials would be ok.
Although this morning its was a good bit warmer in the morning,certainly not below 0'C and the fuel gauge and the engine temp gauge didnt move.They did later on in the day.
Can anyone tell me if they had this and if its normal on a A3 to do this in cold weather?Could the cold have got into a plug/connection now its not making good connection now?
Please,any info appcreciated.
 
my S3s never done it and the car has said -4.5c a number of mornings recently.

I know that doesn't help you but I guess it's worth getting it looked at, however if it's audi they'll probably just say needs a new cluster mate that'll be ££££
 
I'd guess it will be like a 'dry joint' in the display cluster. do any of the warning lights come on at 1st or is it just the dials that dont work. hard to correct yourself unless your into the know.
 
No warning lights come on at all and it hasnt happened today.Im hoping that it has just been the cold weather but surely the gauges should be able to withstand the temperatures here.
If the winter is to be as cold as it has been said then i hope im not in for problems.Is there any way moisture can get into the gauges??Therefore causing them to freeze with the cold??
 
My A3 1.8T withstood -14degrees C a few years ago and other than the EDL shutting down due to overuse everything worked perfectly!
 
[ QUOTE ]
looks like a more than reasonable price:

E-Bay Linky

[/ QUOTE ]

his is a TDi, so I'm afraid it wouldn't do. It isnt the case of it not being able to cope with the cold, more like as i said a poor joint/hairline crack that the metal contracts when cold and so doesnt make the connection.

-14 David? Was that the same year the Clyde froze /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked2.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
looks like a more than reasonable price:

E-Bay Linky

[/ QUOTE ]

more like as i said a poor joint/hairline crack that the metal contracts when cold and so doesnt make the connection.

-14 David? Was that the same year the Clyde froze /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked2.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Is this an easily fixed problem mate? ie is it something i could check myself?
 
I have had a similar problem. It started a few weeks ago when the clock started going a few minutes fast each day.Now first thing in the morning when I open the door the mileage and date/time displays flash on and off instead of coming on steady. the car starts OK then the displays start to flash again, needles flicker and after about 10-15 mins everything is usually OK. One time the needles in the display remained lit even with the ignition key removed. Had it on the computer seemed to be an intemittent instrument cluster problem, took it to be repaired but they couldn't find a problem so I am a bit stuck at the moment, appreciate any advice or suggestions.
Thanks
 
Ive had the lights on the dash staying on aswell with the key removed from the ignition.Im thinking it could just be a dodgy connection because if it was a problem with the dash cluster ,would this also affect the lights on the dash??
Anyone else got any ideas?
 
can the instrument cluster be removed/unplugged for 'inspection'
have had it as far as the cables will let it come forward

does it need VAG com to fit replace it once it has been unplugged
 
You can unplug the three cables on the back of the cluster and it will pop right out of there. They have a funny kind of pivot clip that holds them into the socket though so don't just yank them out.

It's actually pretty easy. Do the one closest to the opening first (on the left as you look at the dash) which is easy to see to get an idea of how the clip works...

Cheers

T
 
Any chance you could give me an "idiots guide" to taking the cluster out mate.To me,i just see the dials behind the glass and have no idea how to start taking them out.
If i get the cluster out,do you think that it will be one of these 3 plugs that have the dodgy connection?
Thanks in advance of any advice.
 
1. Pull out the steering column as far as it will go - makes it easier that's all.

2. Take off the plastic trim that sits over the steering column - just pulls off but if you pull it from the top and try to pivot it around the bottom it's easier as there are clips on the bottom that locate in the dash. Obviously take care not to break it!

3. Unscrew the two securing screws that hold the dial pod in the dash.

4. Pull out the pod gently - this will only be restricted by the cables attached to the back of it and it will more than likely come out further on the left than it will on the right due to the cable on the left being longer.

5. Release the clip on the first plug as previously mentioned by pulling it up from the bottom - when it is released you will be able to pull out the plug from the back of the cluster

6. Repeat for all three plugs and the dial pod should come out freely.


I think that's it, any problems then let us know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Cheers

Tim
 
[ QUOTE ]
go to my homepage and download the pdf

It will show you how to remove it and what wires go where - if you look at where the connectors attach to the pcb board there could be a bad connection there.


http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/macnee/

[/ QUOTE ]

Your downloads could be really useful mate but i couldnt find the diagram showing how to take it out.Im taking it it is in the Electrical PDF?Can you give me a pointer to what page its on.
Please excuse my stupidity on car matter.Im not that great when it comes to cars but i would much rather have a go myself (being an electrician to trade) rather than taking it to a stealership and get robbed.Thanks again,Garry /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush2.gif
 
Silly question time, I take it it's OK to remove the intruments cluster as many times as you want without effecting immobiliser and calibration settings of the cluster, correct?
I fancy taking mine out to have a butchers at the knackered DIS diplay, just to give the terminals a bit of a clean.
 
Yes jojo, you can. All those settings are stored in the ECU. You can actually calibrate the dials via a diagnostic tool. Looks cool when your clocks are spinning around to max rpm and 160mph and you're standing still /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Garry, just have a go mate, it really is easy stuff... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Yes jojo, you can. All those settings are stored in the ECU. You can actually calibrate the dials via a diagnostic tool. Looks cool when your clocks are spinning around to max rpm and 160mph and you're standing still /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Garry, just have a go mate, it really is easy stuff... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks VT /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Got my dash repaired yesteday, all OK so far, if anyone needs any details just let me know.
Cheers
Vorshprungdork

[/ QUOTE ]

Might aswell fill us in on what you had done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beerchug.gif
 
Car was on Vag-com whch showed up an intemittent instrument cluster fault (and several other communication errors, thought to be as a result of the cluster not communicating when the problem was occurring.) I managed to find a company who had repaire some TT dashes in the past with sucess and although the symptoms were similar they were unsure at first if it was the same problem. They changed the Micro in the cluster and so far (fingers crossed) no problem.
 
My rev counter seems to stick when it's cold on start up then seems ok after a few seconds.

Is this a simlar problem as you are having?
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
looks like a more than reasonable price:

E-Bay Linky

[/ QUOTE ]

his is a TDi, so I'm afraid it wouldn't do. It isnt the case of it not being able to cope with the cold, more like as i said a poor joint/hairline crack that the metal contracts when cold and so doesnt make the connection.

-14 David? Was that the same year the Clyde froze /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked2.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Right,ive sussed out how the dash cluster comes out mate (thanks again for the download).Going back to your theory about it being a cracked connection or poor joint,where is the best part to check whether there is a bad connection?Or should i just push all the cables in to make sure none have came loose slightly?
 
audi upgrades
The company whicsh fixed mine is Ashkirk sevices in Glasgow. Also known as www.dashfixer.com, they do digital mileage correction, chip and diagnostic tuning etc.
If it's more than a dodgy connection I would say they are a good bet.
 
Is that the Ashkirks in Hillington Estate mate?
What was actually happening to your dash?Ive only had trouble when its been freezing,otherwise it is working fine.Had the dash cluster out this morning and couldnt find anything wrong.Had a clean about the pins and the plug but nothing seemed to be out of the ordinary.
 
Seems like another electrical fault with audi again! always something electrical!! My dash started to say the fuel tank was empty when it had over half a tank left in it. This may just be a coincidence but it was shortly after i had my car re mapped and i switched to optimax....Anyhow i have continued to use optimax and the problem has now gone away and not re-surfaced for over a month!? I know this is a common problem having looked through the old posts. Also last week the dash started to dim itself as the adjuster seems to be faulty. I can live with that though as i can usually get it to stay bright after messing with it for a minute. Oh well shouldn't complain the positives of the car definately out number the negatives. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
Gary,
If you look at my first post dated 24th Nov you will see my symptoms, slightly different to yours but i thought possibly similar. It is Ashkirk at Hillington, they seem to be the only place around that repairs, everyone else says it's a Audi Dealer job and £500+.
Hope that helps, all the best.
Vorshprungdork
 
How much did Ashkirk take off you for fixing your problem mate?
 
They took £250 so it's not that cheap, they claim to be fixing dashes for Audi dealers but I am not sure how that comes about although I can believe that the dealers wouldn't want to publicise that they are doing this. Anyway the car has been spot on perfect since it was done so for me, so long as that continues it has been well worth it.
Hope that helps.
Vorshprungdork
 
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