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Thread: Must do modifications for K03/K03s AGU and AUM engines FWD cars

  1. #41
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    Love the thread, it's simply awesome!
    Any update on installing K04 on AGU maybe?

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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raizo View Post
    Love the thread, it's simply awesome!
    Any update on installing K04 on AGU maybe?
    Hello my friend.Happy new year!!
    I have also installed the K04-064 at AGU motor...I have install it at one Golf mk2 with AGU and produced about 360 bhp (it's a killer) and one hybrid at an Audi a3 with AGU and custom internals , 2000cc and produced 395 bhp!I am waiting photos with installed k04-064 from rhd cars guys!
    Last edited by Nick_mk2; 3rd January 2014 at 09:16.

  4. #43
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    Klappe I am working my way through your write and have to say its excellent you maybe blunt and to the point but your thread is excellent and easy to follow, im at the vr6 maf point and wonder if you could tell me what this is off as I have looked and there is a lot of different ones thanks and thanks for your work you have put into this
    16Klappe likes this.
    1.8Q sleeper all the way

  5. #44
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    OBD II golf VR6 Drewvic.
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  6. #45
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    thanks prawn but what does obd 2 stand for sorry im no good with that kinda jargan lol,
    1.8Q sleeper all the way

  7. #46
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    OBD II is the later ones, you'll know it because the OBD II MAF looks just like yours:



    Where the OBD I version looks totally different:

    16Klappe and Drewvic like this.
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  8. #47
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    got you thanks very much for that prawn big help
    1.8Q sleeper all the way

  9. #48
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    Good work Prawn. Thanks.

    Glad this thread is still of use.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  10. #49
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    Hi Klappe sent this to you in a private message but I'm having problems with my browser so I'm not sure you will receive it so re-posting the entire message on this just encase.

    "Hi, since joining the site I've been following your Guide thread that was a sticky when I joined, it's helped me allot and I was doing really well at sticking to it, but I got carried away somewhere along the line and now the Cars running like a piece of **** and I'm lost at what it can be!!

    So yea here's the story from when the Car was standard:

    S2000 Air Filter
    2.5'' Full system (could even be 2'' not sure)
    3'' Down Pipe and De-Cat
    Universal FMIC
    Solid State flywheel and clutch

    After fitting these the oil pick-up line got blocked and the engine eventually seized, (I live 300 miles from base and tried limping the Car home and failed)

    I got the engine replaced with a newer engine that came with a mint newer Ko3 turbo, shortly after the engine was fitted it started driving like ****, the car was miss firing and wasn't running right when under "load" I could ease on the accelerator but if I put my foot too far down on the accelerator then it would start spluttering and being extremely boggy.

    I had it plugged into a diagnostics machine and apparently there was a failing temp gauge switch or regulator w/e there called, so I replaced that, all errors were then clear and the Car was still driving like ****!! after replacing most of the sensors from my old engine onto the newer one to see if it had any dodgy sensors and coming up at a loss we then replaced the spark plugs, turns out they were in a really bad **** state all arcked and ****ed up, put 4 prong super sparks in her and the Car was perfect again for about a week...

    Plugged it in again and there's no errors at all, all sensors are showing up perfectly normal and I've had the clutch adaptor thing done or w/e it's called and no joy.

    I'm completely at a loss, the mechanic that fitted my newer engine suggests a remap as it seems that the ECU is responding really badly to the new mods.

    1 thing to note is that the problems only happen when the Car is warm, runs perfectly fine when cold....

    Sorry for the wall of text but I didn't want to miss out any important information."

    Failed to mention that the newer engine had a full service with cam belt and water pump change, only reason the spark plugs weren't done during the installation of the newer engine is that I provided all the parts for the service myself and forgot the plugs... we planned to put them in at a later date.

    I have a 1999 A3 1.8T

  11. #50
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    Check your coil pack loom for cracks in the wiring.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  12. #51
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    Maf or ignition amplifier? Have you changed your fuel filter?
    I take it on the new engine, you fitted a new pick up pipe?

  13. #52
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    A nice little trick I learned when I had my scooby to find faults in coil pack looms is to get a spray bottle and fill it with water, when the engine is running spray a tad over the looms and if you see any blue dazzles of light (HT voltage escaping looms and into water) you need some replacing doing. It's an old trick, but they're always the best...

  14. #53
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    I like that.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  15. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spatula View Post
    A nice little trick I learned when I had my scooby to find faults in coil pack looms is to get a spray bottle and fill it with water, when the engine is running spray a tad over the looms and if you see any blue dazzles of light (HT voltage escaping looms and into water) you need some replacing doing. It's an old trick, but they're always the best...
    I'll try this thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by paultownsend View Post
    Maf or ignition amplifier? Have you changed your fuel filter?
    I take it on the new engine, you fitted a new pick up pipe?
    Haven't changed the fuel filter, an yes there is a new pick-up line

  16. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spatula View Post
    A nice little trick I learned when I had my scooby to find faults in coil pack looms is to get a spray bottle and fill it with water, when the engine is running spray a tad over the looms and if you see any blue dazzles of light (HT voltage escaping looms and into water) you need some replacing doing. It's an old trick, but they're always the best...
    Correct me if I'm wrong but surely what's passing thought the loom will be a standard 12 volts and will only get jumped up when it gets to the coil pack it self? . . Not like a HT lead is it


  17. #56
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    We replaced all 4 of the packs when the problem first came about with the old packs from the old engine, this didn't fix anything but changing the spark plugs fixed the issue for a few weeks, is it possible that the new spark plugs I bought from Halfords have already started failing? or is it something else?
    Last edited by Mi11ar; 5th February 2014 at 12:21.

  18. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by VAG-Slag View Post
    Correct me if I'm wrong but surely what's passing thought the loom will be a standard 12 volts and will only get jumped up when it gets to the coil pack it self? . . Not like a HT lead is it
    Correct. This is mainly to see if HT leads are working correctly. Also, thinking about it, what you should see IS a blue trace and if you don't, then the voltage isn't there, so your coil pack is duff. The more I think about it and the setup of how the Audi works in comparrison to the imprezza, I don't think this will work. Maybe worth a squirt to just see if there is anything obviously wrong, as long as you don't dowse your electrics with a hose pipe there will be no damage caused.

    It was about 5 years ago when I did this and it was because I was getting a hesitant engine with a miss fire and this helped me fault find that a HT was f**ked and saved me spending £200+ on a new coil pack.


    ****excuse me if this makes no sense, I'm in work and doing a cheeky sniper reply.

  19. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spatula View Post
    Correct. This is mainly to see if HT leads are working correctly. Also, thinking about it, what you should see IS a blue trace and if you don't, then the voltage isn't there, so your coil pack is duff. The more I think about it and the setup of how the Audi works in comparrison to the imprezza, I don't think this will work. Maybe worth a squirt to just see if there is anything obviously wrong, as long as you don't dowse your electrics with a hose pipe there will be no damage caused.

    It was about 5 years ago when I did this and it was because I was getting a hesitant engine with a miss fire and this helped me fault find that a HT was f**ked and saved me spending £200+ on a new coil pack.


    ****excuse me if this makes no sense, I'm in work and doing a cheeky sniper reply.
    So just spray the top of the coil packs with a little bit of water and check for a spark?

    I'll try this but like I said I've replaced the packs before using the ones from my old engine so I don't think it's that, although hesitant engine is also what I'd use to describe mine

  20. #59
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    Yes, try it. You have nothing to lose and could gain some useful information from it.

    If you've replaced the engine, it could theoretically be a whole host of problems that it's hard to help diagnose over a forum, but I would take all advice on board and start from the most likely. Also, it's quite possible your ECU is out so as a free 30 mins test I would try disconnecting the battery and resetting ECU. (although you would have done this during an engine drop anyway)..

    Also just read up and if spark plugs fixed the problem and then it reappeared after a week I would suggest removing them and looking at the gap or corrosion or something. Maybe your compression is off and bending the plugs when the engine heats up? This really isn't my forte and I suspect a more knowledgeable person (anyone on the forum that doesn't have 'Spatula' as their name) will come along shortly and chime in.

    Good luck though dude, seems like you've been to hell and back with this problem!

  21. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spatula View Post
    Yes, try it. You have nothing to lose and could gain some useful information from it.

    If you've replaced the engine, it could theoretically be a whole host of problems that it's hard to help diagnose over a forum, but I would take all advice on board and start from the most likely. Also, it's quite possible your ECU is out so as a free 30 mins test I would try disconnecting the battery and resetting ECU. (although you would have done this during an engine drop anyway)..

    Also just read up and if spark plugs fixed the problem and then it reappeared after a week I would suggest removing them and looking at the gap or corrosion or something. Maybe your compression is off and bending the plugs when the engine heats up? This really isn't my forte and I suspect a more knowledgeable person (anyone on the forum that doesn't have 'Spatula' as their name) will come along shortly and chime in.

    Good luck though dude, seems like you've been to hell and back with this problem!
    Yea I came of the road a week after the newer engine got fixed and smashed up my gear box, clutch needed replacing, bumper was smashed, air bags went off, FMIC was bent, the problem was happening before then though, I got the Car completely fixed and it was fine for a short time after wards and then came back, I've spent thousands on the Car and this little problem has just thrown me off lol

    I unplugged the battery for a few seconds while I adjusted the steering wheel and now a new problem has arisen the rev counter just bounces all over the place, this didn't happen before.... lol

    Posted 2 videos to try an show, 1 of the car while driving and another of the Car when idle..




  22. #61
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    That looks really strange. I would say it's something to do with fuel regulation. It seems like it can't figure out the correct mixture or something? Are you sure you put the right engine in lol?!
    lanc likes this.

  23. #62
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    Same engine codes :s

    Had a different wiring lume though

  24. #63
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    What should a healthy k03 peak and hold boost at?
    my mapped k03 peaks @15.5 but will not hold. It just dropps quickly down to 8psi.
    Is this because of heat? or weak actuator?

  25. #64
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    depends where it's at in the rev range really Paul.

    A stock ko3 will peak around 15-16 as yours does, and won't be much over 8psi at the redline. falling gradually across the range after peaking around 3-3.5k.
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    i will have to re check. Im fitting a THS FMIC this weekend. Will this have an effect on the PSI at all with pressure drop?

  27. #66
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    How does it drive.

    Fitting a boost gauge is not a good idea if you are a worrier, because these cars do strange **** and some days the boost to 20 and some days they won't make more than 18.

    Knowing what is going on is as much of a curse as it is a blessing.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  28. #67
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    It drives perfectly well. I get consistent boost from my ko3 (gear dependent).

    I was curious as to what other peoples ko3 push boost wise. Just to see if mine is healthy.

    When mapping, he was having major issues with heatsoak. Hopeful tomorrow THS FMIC will solve that

  29. #68
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    THS FMIC fitted. Great fitting piece if kit. Still hits 16psi, never below 10psi. Scares the crap out of me at 6k in any gear!

  30. #69
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    Gents. Think I have sourced a crack free low mileage k03 052.

    If I bolted it on with new gaskets etc, would I be able to use it daily until remapped?
    The car is already mapped to 185hp and 220lbft. Boosting to 16psi and never dropping below 10psi.

    I have since fitted a forge tip, 3" DP and THS FMIC.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 16Klappe View Post
    Crazy mother ****ers, the lot of you.

    Ok, I will write up a K04 conversion.


    this is the stuff we have all been waiting for after years someone that goes into pure detail step by step with a GSOH i have been reading these threads for hours .

 

 
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