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  1. #1
    AG205's Avatar
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    Transfer box rear oil seal

    Hi, just done a gearbox/transfer box swap due to the old one having developed a whine and the new transfer box has started chucking oil out of the rear oil seal where the prop meets the output flange. I know I should really have replaced all the seals I could on the gearbox & transfer box while it was out but we ran out of time

    Question is: according to Elsawin, when you pull the output flange off to get to the rear oil seal it takes part of the bearing race with it and just wondering if you can just tighten the output flange back on or whether you need to replace the bearing too??

    Also, according to ETKA, there's an adjusting washer sat between the end of the flange & the bearing I think which sounds ominous. Does this have to be professionally set up or can it be done DIY?? :S
    2001 Audi S3 AMK Nogaro Blue - Eibach Pro Street coilovers, Stage 2 remap,
    Milltek Resonated + Hi Flow cats, Badger TIP, now catch tank'd and de-cluttered

    1993 Renault Clio 1.8 16V in Black (frilly arched project car)

    1991 BMW E30 318i with 325i Sport engine in Red (owes me big money)

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  3. #2
    AG205's Avatar
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    ElsaWin reckons special tools req'd
    2001 Audi S3 AMK Nogaro Blue - Eibach Pro Street coilovers, Stage 2 remap,
    Milltek Resonated + Hi Flow cats, Badger TIP, now catch tank'd and de-cluttered

    1993 Renault Clio 1.8 16V in Black (frilly arched project car)

    1991 BMW E30 318i with 325i Sport engine in Red (owes me big money)

  4. #3
    AG205's Avatar
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    Well after a lot of p*$$ing about & no help from anyone on here (again) I've decided to swap the transfer box for another one that I've found cheap.

    Considering part of the bearing race comes out with the output flange and the oil seal won't go over this, the realistic options for changing transfer box rear oil seal are:

    1. Remove old bearing via angle grinder (carefully), weld to it then knock it off, buy taper roller bearing remover or VAG special tool 1582 (if you're insane) etc. Once bearing removed, replace oil seal (£40 +VAT from Audi) after fitting new bearing (Timken 12175/12303) - £100ish +VAT from Audi or £76 from other bearing supplier.

    2. Book into dealership & let Audi use special taper roller bearing puller tools to remove old bearing race intact & fit new seal etc. - cost £££££££££

    3. Remove transfer box from car & take to gearbox specialist & allow them to remove bearing & fit new expensive seal - cost £40 +VAT for seal plus labour for gearbox place.

    4. Swap for second hand, leak free transfer box - I found one for less than £40 nearby so can collect.

    5. Bloody live with it & keep topping up oil & cleaning drive & back of car/underside of car of oil!

    All in all, choices not great. Suppose it depends how rich/OCD/bodge-tastic/bored you are.......
    Last edited by AG205; 15th May 2013 at 16:47.
    2001 Audi S3 AMK Nogaro Blue - Eibach Pro Street coilovers, Stage 2 remap,
    Milltek Resonated + Hi Flow cats, Badger TIP, now catch tank'd and de-cluttered

    1993 Renault Clio 1.8 16V in Black (frilly arched project car)

    1991 BMW E30 318i with 325i Sport engine in Red (owes me big money)

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    Quote Originally Posted by AG205 View Post
    Well after a lot of p*$$ing about & no help from anyone on here (again) I've decided to swap the transfer box for another one that I've found cheap.

    Considering part of the bearing race comes out with the output flange and the oil seal won't go over this, the realistic options for changing transfer box rear oil seal are:

    1. Remove old bearing via angle grinder (carefully), weld to it then knock it off, buy taper roller bearing remover or VAG special tool 1582 (if you're insane) etc. Once bearing removed, replace oil seal (£40 +VAT from Audi) then fit new bearing (Timken 12175/12303) - £100ish +VAT from Audi or £76 from other bearing supplier.

    2. Let Audi use special taper roller bearing puller tools to remove old bearing race intact & fit new seal etc. - cost £££££££££

    3. Remove transfer box from car & take to gearbox specialist & allow them to remove bearing & fit new expensive seal - cost £40 +VAT for seal plus labour for gearbox place.

    4. Swap for second hand, leak free transfer box - I found on for less than £40 nearby so can collect.

    5. Bloody live with it & keep topping up oil & cleaning drive & back of car/underside of car of oil!

    All in all, choices not great. Suppose it depends how rich/OCD/bodge-tastic/bored you are.......
    how easy is it to get the transfer box out then?, my seal has gone, and the smell sometimes is very nice coming throu then vents.

  6. #5
    AG205's Avatar
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    Removing the transfer box isn't too difficult but it's easier if you remove the front subframe for clearance. Then it's just a case of removing O/S driveshaft, exhaust, exhaust headshield, disconnecting prop, draining gearbox/transfer box oil & unbolting transfer box from the gearbox/engine block (including the little allen head bolt that you get to with a stupid long 1/4" drive extensions through the O/S halfshaft.

    Sounds bad but it could be worse believe me as I did a turbo change recently......now that was a nightmare!!
    2001 Audi S3 AMK Nogaro Blue - Eibach Pro Street coilovers, Stage 2 remap,
    Milltek Resonated + Hi Flow cats, Badger TIP, now catch tank'd and de-cluttered

    1993 Renault Clio 1.8 16V in Black (frilly arched project car)

    1991 BMW E30 318i with 325i Sport engine in Red (owes me big money)

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    `sounds like you had fun with both jobs .
    i think i'l carry on with your option no 5, for a bit longer , am broke.
    good luck.

  8. #7
    AG205's Avatar
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    Yeah good choice mate, if it's not too bad you might as well live with it.

    I'm just hoping all the 'nasty jobs' at the back of the engine are over for a while!
    2001 Audi S3 AMK Nogaro Blue - Eibach Pro Street coilovers, Stage 2 remap,
    Milltek Resonated + Hi Flow cats, Badger TIP, now catch tank'd and de-cluttered

    1993 Renault Clio 1.8 16V in Black (frilly arched project car)

    1991 BMW E30 318i with 325i Sport engine in Red (owes me big money)

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    fingers crossed for ya. mine lost 50 ml of oil since xmas, i top up the 50 ml and i have gears again , don't know why.Its pain in the a**

  10. #9
    vfr800's Avatar
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    It looks like I have a left hand output shaft seal leaking a bit but there doesn't seem to be much on here about people changing these seals unfortunately.

    Liam

    S3 AMK 2002. Only 203 BHP left in my poor little engine, currently searching for the 7 missing horses.
    Mods: Powerflex bushes at the front and rear, 710P DV, ambient light module, Badger5 V3 TIP, S2000 Filter.

  11. #10
    AG205's Avatar
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    Probably because it's a right PITA! If you mean N/S by left then it's probably just the three o-rings (few quid only) that need replacing where the transfer box meets the gearbox but if it's the other side then it's a proper oil seal which is same part number as the rear one (£40 +VAT). Not looked at this but could be same situation with bearings etc, not sure.

    Collected my replacement £35 transfer box off a TT (same part no.) & all looks clean & dry so going to wang it on & hope for cheap fix! Replaced o-rings this time to be sure!
    2001 Audi S3 AMK Nogaro Blue - Eibach Pro Street coilovers, Stage 2 remap,
    Milltek Resonated + Hi Flow cats, Badger TIP, now catch tank'd and de-cluttered

    1993 Renault Clio 1.8 16V in Black (frilly arched project car)

    1991 BMW E30 318i with 325i Sport engine in Red (owes me big money)

 

 

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