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Thread: replacement engine 8l amk

  1. #1
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    replacement engine 8l amk

    Hi all, help needed please, my engines spat a rod out and smashed a hole in my block :-( it's a 02 amk S3 - 85k, engine was mint !?! Full service/regular oil changes-very well looked after, I fitted a sfs 3"tip which ran great for a week or so when it started to intermittently run rough/the odd missfire, plugged it into vag com and it said cylinder 3 was the problem, suspected coil no3 (made sense) changed coil3, it ran a little lumpy on start up then fine/as normal.

    I then took it for a blast up the road everything was fine then it missed when on 4k+ revs, changed up a gear everything fine, gave it some to 4k+ again and 'bang' loads of oil/smoke and a big lump of the block spat out onto the road, oil light came on n dumped it's oil on the road. never once had any problems with this engine,everyone commented on how well it ran and how quiet it was, strange that I only started getting Probs after fitting tip ?

    Anyway I need a new engine, what I need to know is which engines would be a straight swap for the amk ? Not sure which mach up or will run of my electrics/ecu so on ? Am I best just waiting for a amk ? Oh it's got a custom code stage 1 map and ran fine on this for 2.5 year or so, any help would be great
    Last edited by <tuffty/>; 8th April 2013 at 13:14. Reason: Edited to make it readable

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  3. #2
    lovemelongtime's Avatar
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    I have an AMK at the mo and will be putting in a forged BAM.

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    U selling the amk ?

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    You can arguably use any 20vt transverse engine to replace the AMK but there are a few caveats..

    210/225 (AMK/BAM) engines use 20mm pinned rods so you can use any of the K04 turbo's engines as a base so TT (APX/BAM 225), LCR (AMK 210/BAM 225) and S3 (APY/AMK 210, BAM 225)... you can also use an AGU from the early A3's

    There are a couple of other cars in the VAG range that have engines with 20mm rods but can't remember the engine codes off hand (Mk3 Ibiza Cupra springs to mind)

    If using an engine from a non wideband car (APX, AGU, APY) then you need to use your VVT cam chain tensioner... AGU also comes with a large port head but small port is preferable at power levels below 350hp so you can just use the bottom end and re-coup some cash selling on the largeport head... APY/APX codes will need the SAI port to be blocked in the head

    You will need to use your knock sensors as these differ between non wideband and wideband engines... I would be tempted to use the sensors etc from your engine if poss as you know these work...

    Other than that 20v blocks and heads are pretty much the same...

    <tuffty/>
    m19lte likes this.
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post

    There are a couple of other cars in the VAG range that have engines with 20mm rods but can't remember the engine codes off hand (Mk3 Ibiza Cupra springs to mind)

    <tuffty/>
    99.99% certain that APY lumps use 20mm pinned rods as well
    2000 S3 APY

    18" BBS RSII with Michelin PS3s, 20mm H&R adapters, Relentless 3" DP and Sports cat, B5 V1 induction kit, cone filter+heat shield, Forge 007P, Awesome GTI SMF, AP coilovers, Facelift rear lights, Full Powerflex poly bush kit, R32 Rear ARB, SAI delete, N249 by-pass, Upgraded Engine mounts with Polytek, Stage 1 CC at Badger 5.

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    ....and S3 (APY/AMK 210, BAM 225)... you can also use an AGU from the early A3's
    Quote Originally Posted by kwistof View Post
    99.99% certain that APY lumps use 20mm pinned rods as well
    Yeah, I did mention this

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    Rod lottery! expect it was running lean top end?

    Chin up and get a well priced looked after engine, anything you can sell off the destroyed engine can go towards the new engine.
    m19lte likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    Yeah, I did mention this

    <tuffty/>
    Ooooppps I may have misread what you put! lol

    OP- I remember a member linking a document with every 1.8t lump Audi produced and it had all the spec of every engine code. Just tried finding it in a quick search but didn't have any luck - so may be worth having a more thorough search if you need any more information.

    Also....I'd recommend joining the Facebook VAG for sale group, where there are numerous engines and cars being broken by enthusiasts.

    Unlucky though dude, something must have gave in for it to go bang somewhere along the line.....my engine gave up in 2010 and took the turbo along with it and also needed the clutch replacing all in one hit!!
    m19lte likes this.
    2000 S3 APY

    18" BBS RSII with Michelin PS3s, 20mm H&R adapters, Relentless 3" DP and Sports cat, B5 V1 induction kit, cone filter+heat shield, Forge 007P, Awesome GTI SMF, AP coilovers, Facelift rear lights, Full Powerflex poly bush kit, R32 Rear ARB, SAI delete, N249 by-pass, Upgraded Engine mounts with Polytek, Stage 1 CC at Badger 5.

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    Wowww cheers for the replies guys, especial the info tuffty-just what I needed ! Yea absolutely gutted, just started spending on him/her again-getting it ready for the shows n thought 'I need more boost :-) n bang :-( just going to have to find A LOT of money To sort it.

    But now I'm in the predicament of-if I'm putting a new lump in I'm best doing the t/belt if I do the belt it worth doing the clutch so-on so-on. I've just bought a 3" down pipe n de-cat which I may aswel put on whilst the engines out. But I've really been put off modding my replacement lump ?

    I Was in the process of moving on to stage 2 with decat + cat back and 3" tip, I recon this would give some great improvement as I really noticed the difference with the tip, advice needed please ? Am I just being cautious or too cautious ? Don't want it going bang again but would love a bit more ooomph, it just makes sense to bolt all the mods now whilst the engines out ! Help please :-l
    Last edited by <tuffty/>; 8th April 2013 at 19:09. Reason: Please try and use paragraphs to make the post more readable

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    Essflee's Avatar
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    I've had the same happen to me mate, same situation, hole in block...

    I'm now running audi's standard/boring map along with a badger 5 tip.

    If you have the cash I would definitely uprate the rods in the new engine before its fitted back in the car. I know you have enough to fork out for but if your keeping the car I'd bite the bullit and get some rifle drilled rods. I wish I had at the time looking back now,

    I wouldn't map my car again without them, it's not pleasant having a blown engine, I feel for ya...
    revo'd

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    Cheers pal-yea that's what I 'want' but defo can't afford to get them done, decisions decisions :-/

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    Quote Originally Posted by m19lte View Post
    U selling the amk ?
    Sorry buddy, my mate is having it. He is putting eBay Chinese special rods in. To be honest I got my BAM off eBay a few years back and have had no issues at all, I am sure you can pick one up for good money.

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    What map m19lte?

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    No worries, cheers, I'll keep my eyes out

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    It has a custom code stage 1 at the mo, I was thinking of going to a cc stage 2 or toying with the vvt attack route with the bolt on bits

 

 

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