WMI Help needed. Lots of it please!

g60leigh

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Ok so basically I have taken a punt on a WMI kit that was cheap enough to give it a try.
It's a Aquamist kit with a 806-052 race version pump. And has a brand new 806-288 pump loom.
It has a boost pressure switch to activate it.
I still need to source a tank for the water / meth.

So you peeps who are lucky enough to already have it installed please can you give me some pointers and advice.

I have had a search but I'm just finding posts debating if it is safe or not and the mix to run.

The help I need is:

1) does anyone have a wiring diagram for this loom as it hasn't come with one. (I have contacted Aquamist to see if they can supply one)

2) where are you mounting the nozzle (AMK engine with FMIC)

3) what size tanks are you running

4) what boost pressure have you got yours set to activate.


Thanks in advance :)
 
Hi mate,

you can get a water tank from devils own.there expensive for what they are but i dont think anywhere else sells them.

I run 50/50 deionised water and meth

So to answer your other questions...
1) does anyone have a wiring diagram for this loom as it hasn't come with one. (I have contacted Aquamist to see if they can supply one)

2) where are you mounting the nozzle (AMK engine with FMIC) - mount it after the intercooler but before the map sensor.

3) what size tanks are you running - I'd get a 4 quart tank if i was you. it doesnt last long when your hooning! lol

4) what boost pressure have you got yours set to activate. - i have mine set at aroung 15psi, you dont really want to be using it when pulling off from lights and what not

go onto cooling mist website, they have a diagram of how to fit.

good luck!
 
Thank you Paradox1. The wiring on there doesn't match up to mine so hopefully aquamist will come threw with a diagram.

Thanks for the pointers on all the other bits.
 
Your welcome buddy!

Where are you mounting your tank and pump?

As for the wiring, it was too hard...I have no electrical experience, if I can do it then anyone can.

pos and nevgative from the pump. ground the negative to the chassis, positive wired to under the steering wheel to the live feed. I hooked up a switch so I can turn it on and off but its not that hard really, i'll try get some pics for you tomorrow
 
Thanks again mate.

This is the loom I have

83D37F59-EAA9-4315-A015-58B3EE5F3D9B-5715-000001B91D46A9BD_zps5e99434e.jpg


As you can see there are a few extra wires.
I am figuring that black - neutral. Red - live. Purple - switched live. Just need to work out which is boost control switch wires lol.
 
😃
Managed to get the wiring diagram

373D9DDC-3C28-4A8A-A4F9-3A870A90717D-6101-000001CB6CD9E75F_zpsa3a3c48a.jpg


Just got to source a tank and a check valve (for safety) and good to go.
 
Not sure where I'm mounting it yet. Probably in the boot but going to look at engine bay options.
Also got to work out the best way to secure the injector when I see where it's getting attached
 
Your welcome buddy!

Where are you mounting your tank and pump?

As for the wiring, it was too hard...I have no electrical experience, if I can do it then anyone can.

pos and nevgative from the pump. ground the negative to the chassis, positive wired to under the steering wheel to the live feed. I hooked up a switch so I can turn it on and off but its not that hard really, i'll try get some pics for you tomorrow


If you can get pics that would be great mate. Including where you have mounted pump and tank and where / how you fixed the injector/nozzle
👍
 
Leigh pm me your number and ull send u the pics my Photobucket doesn't like me today
 
USRT sell throttle body spacers with a port built in? Might save your TB getting ruined. Although Paradox has said it needs to be before the map sensor. Why is that?
 
The way I understand it Sam is that if you use the throttle body spacer plate,the water/meth doesn't get a chance to atomise as much as it would just after the intercooler
 
True but I wonder how much it effects it in reality. Given the location of injectors etc. I suppose it depends on the spray pattern of the nozzle used. The guy I got my GTX off of ran one on his Golf R and it seems to be producing the power etc.
 
i eventually plan on getting a wmi kit when i go hybrid but where is the best place to mount the tanks and run the lines?? i thought of mounting the tank in the sub compartment of the boot as i took my sub out due to a speaker upgrade but the issue with this would be where to route the injection lines? Are they safe to run through the car or are they safer routed under the car?

matt
 
Meth pipe is SAFE to run in the car, bear in mind that genuine VAG screen wash is upto 50% meth and we dont worry about that rear wash pipe running thro the car do we :)

Dont run neat water, i did and Ron is in bits again :(
 
Nozzle fitting position determines how effective WMI is at its two main advantages... cooling and knock control...
Where Do I Position My Water Injection Nozzles

Just after the FMIC is a relatively safe place to fit one as this tends to cool the intake charge effectively, adds a little octane boost and is mostly absorbed by the time it reaches the TB... in the article above position 4 is also a good place remembering to place this a suitable distance from the TB to ensure even distribution... the TB plates won't offer even distribution from what I can see...

One thing to watch though is the spray cone... the TB plates by design have a deep nozzle hole and the nozzles don't screw in very deep.. this can mean the fan spray can hit the sides of the threaded hole and blob... this would be bad... IMO... I have also seen those crappy silicon hose fittings that allow you to fit a nozzle in a hose do the same thing...

<tuffty/>
 
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I have also seen those crappy silicon hose fittings that allow you to fit a nozzle in a hose do the same thing...

<tuffty/>

my kit came with one of them, it was quickly put in the spare nut n bolt tub i have as imho its a bodge
 
Good video that tuffty but very bad in terms of the way it works. Not sure how welly installed the wmi kit on bumble (but hopes its not like that lol) but if its any help you can have a look at my setup leigh, just pm me as i'm free most of today.
 
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That looks like the nozzle/pump is ******** there is no pressure at all..certainly not 200 psi

Pump was fine mate... he did a back to back on this...


<tuffty/>
 
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I saw those vids when I was debating just plumbing the nozzle into a silicone pipe. For the sake of about £15 to an Ali pipe with a boss welded in it would be silly not to.

Leigh, take a look on page 1 of my build thread as I've got an index now. There is a section on my WMI install with pics ;)
 
When I fit mine I am looking to fit the nozzle somewhere closer to the TB rather than just out of the FMIC I think... had some good results from a couple of car we have done this too... the FMIC outlet is convenient as its normally the only place on most FMIC installations where there is a alloy pipe to fit a nozzle too.. mine is allot to the TB so have more scope to pick a location...

<tuffty/>
 
I'm going to do a bench test before I instal it to check the spray pattern then work out best location to place the nozzle.

Has anyone got any pics of the location and angle they have mounter theirs?

Just need to sort out a water/meth tank and a check valve now.

I'm thinking of using a mini beer keg as the water tank. Can anyone think of any reason this would be a bad idea?

Cheers🍺
 
When I fit mine I am looking to fit the nozzle somewhere closer to the TB rather than just out of the FMIC I think... had some good results from a couple of car we have done this too... the FMIC outlet is convenient as its normally the only place on most FMIC installations where there is a alloy pipe to fit a nozzle too.. mine is allot to the TB so have more scope to pick a location...

<tuffty/>
Mines about 6 inch away from the TB, it seems to be a decent place
 
I'm going to do a bench test before I instal it to check the spray pattern then work out best location to place the nozzle.

Has anyone got any pics of the location and angle they have mounter theirs?

Just need to sort out a water/meth tank and a check valve now.

I'm thinking of using a mini beer keg as the water tank. Can anyone think of any reason this would be a bad idea?

Cheers🍺

normally not a good idea for the nozzle to point up to prevent against corrosion etc... normally fit within 90 degrees from the top to the side...

<tuffty/>
 
Just a quick update if anyone following this.

I have my system all wired in.
Had to purchase a proper tank as my other ideas won't work out.

All I need to do is t into boost pipe and set boost activation level.
(Any suggestions on how to check what psi it kicks in at?)

Fit nozzle into pipe work

Fit and fill tank (4 quart devils own) when it arrives.

Then all good to test.
 
Just a quick update if anyone following this.

I have my system all wired in.
Had to purchase a proper tank as my other ideas won't work out.

All I need to do is t into boost pipe and set boost activation level.
(Any suggestions on how to check what psi it kicks in at?)

Fit nozzle into pipe work

Fit and fill tank (4 quart devils own) when it arrives.

Then all good to test.

I hope it goes nice and smoothly for you mate, mine was a nightmare :banghead:
 
Leigh, Mine boost is adjusted by a screw on the pressure gauge, I guess you can try seeing where it kicks in if you have a oost guage. I need to fit my boost guage to find out exaclty what psi it starts but its at around 3.5rpm on mine
 
Well had an all change on this.
Sold the other kit and bought an AEM progressive kit

Been on fitting it all up today. Went pretty well apart from one fault (so far)
When I turn engine off its fine but when I take key out, after about 10 seconds the pump kicks into life and runs itself until I disconnect the earth.

This AEM kit is activated from the negative. And has a permanent 12v live.

I'm thinking its a bad earth.

Anyone else come across similar with their kits?
 
Thats helpful......

Get some pics up of your wiring, maybe its something obvious
 
Wiring is all hidden away.
Going to have another look later on just to check all connections etc.
 
Have you wired it into the ignition feed in the drivers footwell?

Perm live is from battery (pump and controller)
Switched live is from a feed in passenger footwell.
Earth to controller from chassis in passenger footwell
Earth feed to pump is from orange wire from controller

null_zps259c651e.png
 
I'm pretty sure I ran all my wires to the connectors under the pedals in the drivers footwell. There's a perm feed and ignition feed there which saves you running wires into the engine bay and too the battery. So my pump only becomes live as soon as the ignition is live and goes off when the car is off. Might be worth a try.

On page 1 of my thread I have an index and there's a page or two on how I fitted my AEM kit. Take a look, it migh be helpful.
 
Thanks mate will have a look.
Already had the live feed through so just used that.
Ran it at same time as piping for nozzle
 
I would start by double checking all the wiring and testing for power when ign is on and off. Also test when the key is removed, as you can switch the ign off and the radio will still play until you remove the key. You can feel the spring action inside the key barrel cutting the power.
if all is correct, maybe its the controller.