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Thread: Another satisfied R-Tech customer!!! :D A few niggles though... Advice please! :)

  1. #1
    Benjiman46's Avatar
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    Another satisfied R-Tech customer!!! :D A few niggles though... Advice please! :)

    Well guys I finally bit the bullet and booked myself in to R-Tech last week, I went down with low hopes and came back over-joyed!!!

    The first run on the rollers showed the car made 220bhp, which I was impressed with to say it's only supposed to be 210bhp standard! I have the following engine mods on an APY;

    -Badger5 TIP and Jetex cone filter
    -Relentless 3" Downpipe and de-cat with 2.5" powerflow de-cat back
    -(very slightly leaky) Forge 008 DV... In need of a service kit
    -N249 bypass and SAI disconnected

    After about 12 runs on the Dyno with Nick data logging, me watching nervously on and Ben making me loads of coffee... After 3 hours it made 265bhp and 275ftlb!!! To say I was impressed is an under-statement! :D

    On the road, it's just evil! The torque surge is unbelievable and it's just so rapid but safe... So it begs the question, why didn't Audi just make it with this power 12 years ago?

    Here's a few pics


    IMG_3922.jpgIMG_3921.jpgIMG_3939.jpgIMG_3942.jpg


    BEFORE YOU ALL GO!!! lol

    I have a couple of problems I need to ask advice about!

    Nick said I have a few problems...

    1. My Forge 008 is leaking from the top cap... (on smoke testing the boost system that was one of the places it leaked slightly) Can you get hold of new screws (because the allen key part of the screw head has started to round off) and since I changed to the yellow spring ready for the re-map the top seal may be fubar too.

    The following are pre-remap codes...

    2. po116 g62 engine coolant temp sensor code - No idea what to do about this! Advice please

    3. p1548 n75 - again no idea if this means it needs replacing or not, but Nick said it's "Lazy" causing a torque spike as you can see on the graph.

    4. po107 mass air flow sensor - Nick said this will need replacing soon... It's not dead yet, but it's "dodgy" which I'm hoping is what's causing problem 5 and 6...

    5. When I'm on the motorway, in say 5th or 6th gear, and I put my foot down. It will only boost to and hold 15psi, for about 5 or 6 seconds, then it will suddenly go up to 20 psi and the boost starts fluctuating (sounds like turbo flutter but on boost) Now I know it's not turbo lag, because why would it boost instantly to 15 psi, then take a further 5 or 6 seconds to reach 20psi... And then do that weird flutter thing.

    6. Sometimes when setting off from junctions, take it steady in 1st and 2nd then put foot down in 3rd it will boost to about 22psi spike and then flutter like it does on the motorway before settling at about 18 psi.

    Would the last 2 problems be associated with a lazy n75 and or faulty MAF?

    Please note... In NO WAY am I blaming R-Tech for these problems, I understand re-maps bring underlying problems to the surface, I'm just trying to get some ideas before I bother Nick again because he is one busy man!

    Cheers
    Ben
    Last edited by Benjiman46; 11th February 2013 at 13:57.

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  3. #2
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    Hey, that's great. Well the n75 controls your boost so it sounds like it could be a issue for your problems, also a dodgy MAF will not give good air flor readings of consistent ones. Slap new ones on! Ben has just dropped me off at home while Nick looks over mine today - I only live round the corner.
    Benjiman46 likes this.
    Silver 2002 Audi S3 225 (BAM) since March 2011.

    Mods: Badger5 2.2 TIP, Jetex filter, PCV delete, 710 DV, Standard N249 in use, R-Tech Stage 1 TiV Remap, Audi TT Pedals, Red Dogbone, Polybushed tie arms. All silicone boost pipes, Michelin PS3s, Red V6 coil packs, MK4 flat blade conversion, retrofited cruise control.
    Currently: 254bhp - 276lb/ft (174bhp/ton) as of 11/02/2013 On V-Power

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    RIP S3dave

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    did it do these things on the dyno or journey home afterwards?
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  5. #4
    Benjiman46's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badger5 View Post
    did it do these things on the dyno or journey home afterwards?
    On the way home afterwards, Bill. What do you recon?

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    Sounds like surge to me...

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    Benjiman46's Avatar
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    Caused by what?

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    Ironically.. Things working to well!

    Or the n75 not working properly..or actuator sticking..

    the actuator might be sticking thus holding 15psi then when its finally opening over shooting causing the surge.. Very surprised it different happen whilst being mapped ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    Ironically.. Things working to well!

    Or the n75 not working properly..or actuator sticking..

    the actuator might be sticking thus holding 15psi then when its finally opening over shooting causing the surge.. Very surprised it different happen whilst being mapped ...
    That's interesting! Nick said something about a sticking actuator actually thinking about it! It's hard to remember everything haha How do I fix a sticking actuator then? That does make sense...

    1.8 litre porsche eater!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Benjiman46 View Post
    That's interesting! Nick said something about a sticking actuator actually thinking about it! It's hard to remember everything haha How do I fix a sticking actuator then? That does make sense...
    replace it. Can be done on the car, you just need to remove the water feed pipe banjo on the turbo.. Then its 2 bolts on the turbo and the nut on the actuator. Once its removed check the waste gate arm/flap to ensure free movement before installing new actuator..

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    JudderMan's Avatar
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    Awesome result on the dyno. Few replacements and it will be a total menace.
    2000 Audi A3 1.8T Sport AUM K03S|Second owner|Forge 007p|CM TIP|Yellow Dogbone|Pipercross panel|Stage1Map
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    Cheers mate atm it's looking like a new MAF and actuator... I think the n75 is ok tbh... What does everyone think?

    1.8 litre porsche eater!

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    B to the U to the M to the P

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    Last few n75 I've seen removed have crumbled to bits. I don't know how much they retail at At the minute but if there only cheapish you might swell replace it mate. Then you know all running well and sound . Or replace what you said await results from them then see if you got to replace the n75........

    Sean
    Current: 2013 Audi A3 2.0 tdi s line 8V in black SD nav+ extras, E46 BMW M3, 1971 Volvo p1800, 2014 Ford transit sport 155ps ;-)

    Previous : Focus st 225 stage 1 (265 bhp and too much torque), 2002 audi s3 bam engine completely OEM, 2001 Audi a3 1.8 TQS 221bhp and about 20 other cars, majority civics ek4/ek9 and Bmw / Audi soot chucker's!

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    Quote Originally Posted by s33nyboy12 View Post
    Last few n75 I've seen removed have crumbled to bits. I don't know how much they retail at At the minute but if there only cheapish you might swell replace it mate. Then you know all running well and sound . Or replace what you said await results from them then see if you got to replace the n75........

    Sean
    I've had mine off and ultrasonic cleaned it, dried it out and stuck it back and it still does the same thing so I'm inclined to think it's the actuator.

    Is there any way of cleaning the actuator?

    1.8 litre porsche eater!

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  16. #15
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Is it a genuine K04 turbo on your car? the wastegates on the copies (and some hybrids from reputable companies) can be sticky...

    You can't 'clean' an actuator as such... not really setup that way... assuming its not a Forge or other aftermarket replacement...

    It maybe the actuator diaphragm is leaking making it slower to react...

    Using the link I lovingly supplied in the stickies to help you look up fault codes...

    2. po116 g62 engine coolant temp sensor code - No idea what to do about this! Advice please
    16500/P0116/000278 - Ross-Tech Wiki
    16500/P0116/000278 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Implausible Signal

    3. p1548 n75 - again no idea if this means it needs replacing or not, but Nick said it's "Lazy" causing a torque spike as you can see on the graph.
    17956/P1548/005448 - Ross-Tech Wiki
    17956/P1548/005448 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N75): Open Circuit

    4. po107 mass air flow sensor - Nick said this will need replacing soon... It's not dead yet, but it's "dodgy" which I'm hoping is what's causing problem 5 and 6...
    16491/P0107 - Ross-Tech Wiki
    16491/P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) (G71) or Barometric Pressure (BARO) (F96): Signal Low

    So... not a MAF but a MAP sensor... this could well be the cause of your issue...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    It is a genuine K04 yes mate, is there any way to check the actuator to see if it's sticking?

    And no it's just the standard actuator that's been on the car for 12 years haha

    Thanks a lot for your help mate, I'll look into them

    Ben

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    Was the mapping done on the smic's Ben?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benjiman46 View Post
    It is a genuine K04 yes mate, is there any way to check the actuator to see if it's sticking?

    And no it's just the standard actuator that's been on the car for 12 years haha

    Thanks a lot for your help mate, I'll look into them

    Ben
    Got a bike pump? Remove pipe off the actuator and attach pipe from pipe to actuator, will need a but if customisation to make it work, pump and see what happens, really you need a psi gauge on there as well or try and hook in you boost gauge.

  20. #19
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    I have the same boosting/flutter problem with mine after my map, hoping you will identify the problem for me :P

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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    Is it a genuine K04 turbo on your car? the wastegates on the copies (and some hybrids from reputable companies) can be sticky...
    Here is a video of my knackered wastegate (CR Turbo K04 hybrid):



    The hissing is air leaking from the actuator at the place where the rod moves in and out.

    Lasted all of 3 months and 3,000 miles......

    They are sending me a new one tomorrow - hope it last a big longer!
    Last edited by IH786; 12th February 2013 at 22:06.
    MK1 Leon Cupra R: K04 Hybrid / AEM WMI / Wellycooler / Mocal Oil Cooler / Superpro Polybushed / Vibratech Mounts / KW V3's / Factory Recaros / 330bhp...

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    Quote Originally Posted by IH786 View Post
    Here is a video of my knackered wastegate (CR Turbo K04 hybrid):



    Lasted all of 3 months and 3,000 miles......

    They are sending me a new one tomorrow - hope it last a big longer!
    sorry to break it to you, but it'll last no longer! It breaks as its badly built and the angle of the rod out the actuator is wrong causing excessive pressure on the diaphram and leading it to split.. Prawn had the same issue.. I had to make a spacer when I fixed the turbo to fix the problem...And looking at yours I can see it suffers the same issue..

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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    sorry to break it to you, but it'll last no longer! It breaks as its badly built and the angle of the rod out the actuator is wrong causing excessive pressure on the diaphram and leading it to split.. Prawn had the same issue.. I had to make a spacer when I fixed the turbo to fix the problem...And looking at yours I can see it suffers the same issue..
    Noo!!!

    This car has caused me no end of problems - read my thread on SCN but to summarise:

    Slipping clutch
    Knackered actuator
    WMI siphoning
    ESP kicking in all the time

    And my winter car died of a blocked oil pump after about 10 minutes!

    Can you make up a spacer for me - pretty please
    MK1 Leon Cupra R: K04 Hybrid / AEM WMI / Wellycooler / Mocal Oil Cooler / Superpro Polybushed / Vibratech Mounts / KW V3's / Factory Recaros / 330bhp...

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    Bit tricky without the actuator,

    you need to make a half moon spacer with a hole in the middle for the bolt. When you look at yours you'll easily see the rod is at an angle, it needs to be straight out at 90degrees .. Please make sure you do this as just fitting a new actuator without will only cause it to ail again.. It's the bracket that's at fault, badly made.. If your taking it off as well you'll see what I mean..

    Where are you?

    when you get the new one, bolt it in without putting the end on the waste gate and you'll see how bad it is!

  25. #24
    AVLO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benjiman46 View Post
    It is a genuine K04 yes mate, is there any way to check the actuator to see if it's sticking?

    And no it's just the standard actuator that's been on the car for 12 years haha

    Thanks a lot for your help mate, I'll look into them

    Ben
    come on ya tight git and get a forge actuator bought and see if that solves ya problem if not its ya map sensor and if that doesent sort it, its back to the drawing board
    Benjiman46 likes this.
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  26. #25
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AVLO View Post
    come on ya tight git and get a forge actuator bought and see if that solves ya problem if not its ya map sensor and if that doesent sort it, its back to the drawing board
    Since found out that the code Ben posted was incorrect... it was p0101 which is a MAF implausible signal..

    ...and Forge actuators aren't much good tbh... not enough travel IMO and the plastic bush sticks...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    Quote Originally Posted by IH786 View Post
    Here is a video of my knackered wastegate (CR Turbo K04 hybrid):



    The hissing is air leaking from the actuator at the place where the rod moves in and out.

    Lasted all of 3 months and 3,000 miles......

    They are sending me a new one tomorrow - hope it last a big longer!

    Here you go
    Prawn and BigAls A3 Track Car

    post 2435 shoes the actuator and you can see the spacer to make it fit true.. Quite big!

    a few pages back shows the wrong thrust collar fitted to cr turbos as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    Here you go
    Prawn and BigAls A3 Track Car

    post 2435 shoes the actuator and you can see the spacer to make it fit true.. Quite big!

    a few pages back shows the wrong thrust collar fitted to cr turbos as well.
    Cheers mate I will try and sort something out before I fit the new one

    Don't remind me about the thrust collar - I'm fully aware my turbo is probably a ticking time bomb ready to expire at some point!
    MK1 Leon Cupra R: K04 Hybrid / AEM WMI / Wellycooler / Mocal Oil Cooler / Superpro Polybushed / Vibratech Mounts / KW V3's / Factory Recaros / 330bhp...

  29. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny48 View Post
    I have the same boosting/flutter problem with mine after my map, hoping you will identify the problem for me :P
    It's a common thing in high flowing cars I've recently found out... Because I've got the B5 TIP, Jetex and a relentless DP and decat the turbo spools up much faster than standard and I THINK it's the N75 desperately trying to get the boost to the correct pressure (because there's more boost now it's mapped, it's harder to control) which causes your fluctuation.

    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    Since found out that the code Ben posted was incorrect... it was p0101 which is a MAF implausible signal..

    ...and Forge actuators aren't much good tbh... not enough travel IMO and the plastic bush sticks...

    <tuffty/>
    Yeah I mistook a 1 for a 7 on the code haha my mistake... I'm going to change the MAF and the n75 and then pop it back to Niki to have another drive in it for me. Top service

    Don't worry, I wouldn't buy one Forge ones... A standard one is more reliable, easier to set up and much cheaper...

    Ben

    1.8 litre porsche eater!

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    Where can you buy just a standard actuator? Had a look, can't find any

  31. #30
    Benjiman46's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny48 View Post
    Where can you buy just a standard actuator? Had a look, can't find any
    ebay mate... Turbocharger Turbo wastegate Actuator for K03 K04 KKK VW Audi 1.8T | eBay


    1.8 litre porsche eater!

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  32. #31
    Benjiman46's Avatar
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    Or Audi... Think they might be cheaper than that

    1.8 litre porsche eater!

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  33. #32
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    You cant get a standard one from audi as I believe they came with the turbo itself? My actuator is dying and im in need of one. that ebay add says "for ko3 cars" im sure. And im sure bill said you can get forge actuators with a metal bush too? I need one too
    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    its either mapped or broken...

  34. #33
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    Have you had a word with Dan? i know he bought a few as i got one from him....

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    How come your selling up?

  36. #35
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    Replaced the actuator, it's better but still flutters, n75 valve next?

 

 

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