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Thread: Battery relocation

  1. #41
    Prawn's Avatar
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    Looks great mate! Those are the kind of crimps I need but refuse to pay £40 for a cheap set on ebay that I'll use once!

    I see you've used a little short length of small gauge cable from the junction box to the fuse box, what gauge was that? Did you just chop down and re-drill the 'bar' that comes out to connect to the positive terminal usually? I was concerned about how you'd deal with that bit, as obviously you don't want a life terminal exposed to be easily touched on anything!

    Looking forward to doing mine
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  3. #42
    StaceyS3's Avatar
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    Battery relocation

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronin225 View Post
    Thats where i was originally going to locate my battery however the leon boot design cant quite accommodate the OE battery there
    I did look at mounting in the boot side panel but have my Andy Mac sub one side and the other side the void is taken up with the filler assembly, I've mounted mine in the void behind the interior panel next to the rear passanger behind the driver
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  4. #43
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    I'll add mine and stick the thread in the stickies

    I used 50mm sq welding cable... have used the same stuff on a couple of customer cars with no issues and its relatively cheap


    Removed the back box and heat shield so I could access underneath for bolting stuff in...


    Worked out where the tray was going to go... up against the back of the boot...


    Marked it all up and made spacers as the boot floor isn't flat... bolted it all down, looking good so far...


    As I am using a lead/acid battery inside the car (albeit in the boot) you need to vent it externally... batterys usually come with two breather holes, one each side and a little plug to plug one up if needed...


    I then modded a 90 deg pipe joiner (6mm one IIRC... its one I had kicking about..) and there is a handy grommet next to the battery for running the vent pipe outside...




    Drilled the hole for the earth lead and cleaned off the paint to get a good connection...


    Used an M8 SS bolt and made a stud for the earth lead to connect too... made an earth lead from 50mm sq welding cable... crimped the terminals on for a solid connection...


    That all done I sealed all the bolts and holes underneath with high temp sealant... seam sealer would have worked just as well but didn't have any to hand...


    Thats the tray in... need to pull out some of the interior now so I can run the cable to the engine bay (I already have my 4 gauge amp cable run so will need to replace that and re-route to the back)... also need to trim around the boot carpet and make a trim panel to fit over the top of the battery as it will stick up a bit... I have another S3 boot carpet to use to trim the panel... job done...


    Removed the rear trim panel and sill trim... then removed the trim panel in the boot and moved the sub out the way...


    Removed this bracket to get the cable tucked in nicely... will have to mod it though as the cable won't fit nicely behind it... thats ok though as its for the luggage handles which I don't really use...


    Routed the cable out the way securing it often with cable ties to prevent it from rattling...


    I didn't want to run the amp cable back the battery doubling up the amount of cabling so I used a junction box in the cavity behind the rear panel where my amp is and will take the feed from there directly...


    ...a closer look...


    Fitted the modded bracket....


    Removed the glove box to make it easier to see what I was doing...


    Taped the 50mm cable to the 4 gauge to make it easier to pull through...


    ..and removed the pollen filter housing for better access to get teh grommet fitted and sealant applied...


    Terminated the end to the starter motor...


    ...and connected it and the fuse box that was on top of the battery to the terminal block...


    Connected the battery and started the car...


    All good.. car starts and all seems well... and of course the engine bay still looks standard (ish) ;P


    fitted the replacement earth lead... made from 50mm welding cable same as the rest it should help minimise voltage drop to the engine...


    Bolted to the original earthing posts under the battery tray (that was) and also secured the extra earth line I ran to the head etc...


    Thats about it... I have of course tidied it up and secured the fuse box (I'll grab a pic later on and edit the post...)

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  5. #44
    StaceyS3's Avatar
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    Battery relocation

    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    Looks great mate! Those are the kind of crimps I need but refuse to pay £40 for a cheap set on ebay that I'll use once!

    I see you've used a little short length of small gauge cable from the junction box to the fuse box, what gauge was that? Did you just chop down and re-drill the 'bar' that comes out to connect to the positive terminal usually? I was concerned about how you'd deal with that bit, as obviously you don't want a life terminal exposed to be easily touched on anything!

    Looking forward to doing mine
    Cheers mate, would offer to lend te crimping tool but its the works one

    The cable from the fuse box is the oem one which cut down and re lugged and the end by the fuse box has a 90 degree lug on it which taped up to insulate it as had worried about it being able to short out



    This is a panel that clips in the bottom of the fuse box and the said lug sits on the far back right terminal



    Ps forgot to say its 16mm cable

    Edit: forgot the second pic
    Last edited by StaceyS3; 12th February 2013 at 07:50.
    Power & Torque 335bhp 285ftlb
    0-60 4.64 1/4 mile 13.02
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    http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-f...ld-thread.html

  6. #45
    StaceyS3's Avatar
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    Battery relocation

    Quote Originally Posted by ;1786463
    I'll add mine and stick the thread in the stickies

    I used 50mm sq welding cable... have used the same stuff on a couple of customer cars with no issues and its relatively cheap


    Removed the back box and heat shield so I could access underneath for bolting stuff in...


    Worked out where the tray was going to go... up against the back of the boot...


    Marked it all up and made spacers as the boot floor isn't flat... bolted it all down, looking good so far...


    As I am using a lead/acid battery inside the car (albeit in the boot) you need to vent it externally... batterys usually come with two breather holes, one each side and a little plug to plug one up if needed...


    I then modded a 90 deg pipe joiner (6mm one IIRC... its one I had kicking about..) and there is a handy grommet next to the battery for running the vent pipe outside...




    Drilled the hole for the earth lead and cleaned off the paint to get a good connection...


    Used an M8 SS bolt and made a stud for the earth lead to connect too... made an earth lead from 50mm sq welding cable... crimped the terminals on for a solid connection...


    That all done I sealed all the bolts and holes underneath with high temp sealant... seam sealer would have worked just as well but didn't have any to hand...


    Thats the tray in... need to pull out some of the interior now so I can run the cable to the engine bay (I already have my 4 gauge amp cable run so will need to replace that and re-route to the back)... also need to trim around the boot carpet and make a trim panel to fit over the top of the battery as it will stick up a bit... I have another S3 boot carpet to use to trim the panel... job done...


    Removed the rear trim panel and sill trim... then removed the trim panel in the boot and moved the sub out the way...


    Removed this bracket to get the cable tucked in nicely... will have to mod it though as the cable won't fit nicely behind it... thats ok though as its for the luggage handles which I don't really use...


    Routed the cable out the way securing it often with cable ties to prevent it from rattling...


    I didn't want to run the amp cable back the battery doubling up the amount of cabling so I used a junction box in the cavity behind the rear panel where my amp is and will take the feed from there directly...


    ...a closer look...


    Fitted the modded bracket....


    Removed the glove box to make it easier to see what I was doing...


    Taped the 50mm cable to the 4 gauge to make it easier to pull through...


    ..and removed the pollen filter housing for better access to get teh grommet fitted and sealant applied...


    Terminated the end to the starter motor...


    ...and connected it and the fuse box that was on top of the battery to the terminal block...


    Connected the battery and started the car...


    All good.. car starts and all seems well... and of course the engine bay still looks standard (ish) ;P


    fitted the replacement earth lead... made from 50mm welding cable same as the rest it should help minimise voltage drop to the engine...


    Bolted to the original earthing posts under the battery tray (that was) and also secured the extra earth line I ran to the head etc...


    Thats about it... I have of course tidied it up and secured the fuse box (I'll grab a pic later on and edit the post...)

    <tuffty/>
    Nice one

    I feel all special now I've got a thread in the stickies lol
    Power & Torque 335bhp 285ftlb
    0-60 4.64 1/4 mile 13.02
    My GTX3071r Build Thread
    http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-f...ld-thread.html

  7. #46
    Errrr

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    Quote Originally Posted by StaceyS3 View Post
    Cheers mate, would offer to lend te crimping tool but its the works one

    The cable from the fuse box is the oem one which cut down and re lugged and the end by the fuse box has a 90 degree lug on it which taped up to insulate it as had worried about it being able to short out



    This is a panel that clips in the bottom of the fuse box and the said lug sits on the far back right terminal



    Ps forgot to say its 16mm cable

    Edit: forgot the second pic
    Nice work there mate, if you don't mind me asking, what size inline fuse did you use?


    2002 8L A3 1.8T (264WHP / 412NM)

  8. #47
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Inline fuse? for the main battery cable? I never used one and fairly sure Stacey didn't...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  9. #48
    cecilthesausage's Avatar
    ...It's Never Finished...

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    All good stuff lads...... No I know how to tell someone to do mine.....
    When I do finally get my car back.....

  10. #49
    Errrr

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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    Inline fuse? for the main battery cable? I never used one and fairly sure Stacey didn't...

    <tuffty/>
    Oh, must of read something wrong i would like to put a fuse on mine, just to be safe. Will be using a 150A fuse.


    2002 8L A3 1.8T (264WHP / 412NM)

  11. #50
    StaceyS3's Avatar
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    I was going to use a fuse or breaker of some description but didnt get round to it and just slung it in, I did take extra care to make sure the cable is exactly where I want it and held tight as the last thing you want is for it to rub on a part of body work and short straight to the body
    Power & Torque 335bhp 285ftlb
    0-60 4.64 1/4 mile 13.02
    My GTX3071r Build Thread
    http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-f...ld-thread.html

 

 
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