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Thread: S3 Boost Pressure Regulator Valve N75 Open Circuit

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    S3 Boost Pressure Regulator Valve N75 Open Circuit

    Hi,

    I noticed my car didn't feel like it was performing as well as it was before so decided to Vagcom it. I have this fault code: 17956 Boost Pressure Regulator Valve N75 Open Circuit P1548 -35 -10 Intermittent.

    I have cleared it twice now so there is some issue somewhere. I have been some research on the part and checked the connections etc - they look ok.

    What are my options?

    Thanks

    Dan

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    The wiring has a habit of breaking where they come out the plug... I don't think its a bad earth (common issue) as there would be other sensor faults too as they share wiring...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    The wiring has a habit of breaking where they come out the plug... I don't think its a bad earth (common issue) as there would be other sensor faults too as they share wiring...

    <tuffty/>
    Thanks, I guess the best bet is to unplug it and check it for breaks? Is there a specific place it tends to go?

    Failure of that is there anything is too look for or does it need replacing? (If so is it TPS or Stealers for the part)

    Cheers
    Last edited by danderton; 10th January 2013 at 20:25. Reason: Typo

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    The wires come out of the plug and go straight down , this tight bend is what probably breaks
    Noggy Blue 2001 S3

    I ask questions because i change my mind so much. If i ask questions you have already covered... just leave it be?

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    Am i right in thinking this is it?



    The wires are all attached (without taking it off) - However the casing isnt flush and you can see the wires...

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    Doesn't look fully clipped on... push it on better...needs to click positively..

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    I have taken the connector off and cleaned with electrical cleaner. I checked all the pipes and they look ok. And the code has still came back.

    I am assuming this means i need a new valve?

    Has anyone got an idea of price and part number?

    Cheers

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danderton View Post
    I have taken the connector off and cleaned with electrical cleaner. I checked all the pipes and they look ok. And the code has still came back.

    I am assuming this means i need a new valve?

    Has anyone got an idea of price and part number?

    Cheers
    Part number is on the valve and they are around 50 quid

    <tuffty/>
    danderton likes this.
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    ...would I would do first tbh is to get a multimeter and test the valve... if you get a resistance across the valve it is probably ok... I would be tempted to follow the wiring back and see if there is a break further down...

    I had a fault with a knock sensor when I first got my car (one of the first threads I ever posted on this forum in fact)... ended up rewiring it back to the ECU and never had an issue since... not sure where in the wiring the actual fault was but it worked non the less...

    If the valve tests ok then its likely its still a wiring fault and the only thing left is to try and trace the wires back as far as you can and replace them with fresh wires...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    Thanks - Looks like my cars going to have to go the garage tomorrow anyhow, ill get them to check the valve over.

    (See thread) - Oil Light flashing with 3 beeps - Sounds Rough

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    So i have checked the cable with a multimeter and can confirm an open circuit. There must be a break in the wires. Is there a common place for them to break?

    Im thinking unless i can easily spot the break it might be better just to run a new wire.

    Where does the wire go to? the ECU?

    Is there a recommended diameter to the wire or just try to match the current one?

    Thanks ahead

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    So i have just spent the morning following the wires as far back is could. I found no obvious breaks or sharp bends in the wire.

    However i think the wire maybe broken at the top (as it goes into the plug) as thats at tight right angle. (Doesnt look like the best design imo)

    How can i remove the wire from the clip so i can cut the wire an inch down and re-connect?

    I have tried pushing the prongs in but didn't want to push too hard.

    Thanks ahead

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    RIP S3dave

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    if you have the right tools, you can eject the pins and if you have new pins you can reterminate..
    PIA tho and almost impossible if you have'nt go the right pin eject tool.
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    Quote Originally Posted by badger5 View Post
    if you have the right tools, you can eject the pins and if you have new pins you can reterminate..
    PIA tho and almost impossible if you have'nt go the right pin eject tool.
    Ok I'm assuming that its best to get a new part then? Will that will allow me to recrimp the old wires to the new clips or does it come with wire too?

    Is it worth making a splice in the wires a little further down and checking with a multi meter?

    Thanks again

 

 

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