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Thread: Audi S3 - Stroker Big Turbo build.

  1. #1
    Scullies's Avatar
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    Audi S3 - Stroker Big Turbo build.

    Some of you might know I am building a 2.0L 20V Big Turbo. I'm not going to do an in-depth build thread as I'm sure most of you know how these things go.

    Parts list

    Gaskets and bits needed to assembly an engine.



    Timing kit and new water pump



    Wiseco 83mm pistons and IE rifle drilled con rods



    Cat cams and pulley - I removed the stupid locking spring pin and pressed in a solid stainless pin.





    Assembled 2.0L FSI crackshaft with oversized pistons.





    Large port AEB head with supertech valve train



    Engine assembled



    The clutch kit with lightweight flywheel









    New oil pump



    Lightweight pulleys, exhaust wrap and some silicone bits for the TIP



    80mm hemi throttle body



    K&N air filter



    Bosch 044, IE fuel rail and 034 motorsports FPR housing



    Fuel pressure gauge - saw this on ebay and liked the look - it will match my colour theme



    Home made stainless steel surge tank



    Wastegate and 830cc injectors



    90mm maf housing - B5 RS4 has the same size housing as a B7 S4







    FMIC with 3" inlet/outlet



    Home made inlet manifold, fitted the fuel return line to the manifold.


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    That's a right beast of a engine! Love it.
    Silver 2002 Audi S3 225 (BAM) since March 2011.

    Mods: Badger5 2.2 TIP, Jetex filter, PCV delete, 710 DV, N249 bypass, R-Tech Stage 1 TiV Remap, Audi TT Pedals, Red Dogbone, Polybushed tie arms. All silicone boost pipes, Michelin PS3s, Red V6 coil packs, MK4 flat blade conversion, retrofited cruise control.
    Currently: 254bhp - 276lb/ft (174bhp/ton) as of 11/02/2013 On V-Power

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    What turbo and manifolds?

    Not sure a lightweight crank pulley is recommended. Fluidampr is the way to go.
    Handling mods++. GTX30 soon-ish. Hiding parts from the mrs since 2011. Build thread

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    Some goodies there good luck with the build

    atb

    dre

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    nice
    ive just ordered a lightweight flywheel (f1)
    where did you get the paddle clutch from?
    thanks

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    Ohh .. Just thought I'd write a quick thread on my 2.0ltr striker build..

    Jesus man there's at least 6 months worth of posts there to keep me busy and you whittled it down to 1post! Prawny would have got 200,000 posts out of your 1! Nice work though :-)
    StaceyS3 likes this.

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    The difference between small port heads and large ports heads



    Difference between 1.8t oil pump drive gear and 2.0L FSI



    Pulling the FSI gear off the crankshaft



    I fitted some H&R springs and kept the standard shocks - that was a FAIL, shocks crashed out everywhere and the rear camber was BAD




    Since then I fitted some bilstein shocks and rear adjustable tie rods



    and now for the good part

    Precision 6262 turbo with billet comp wheel

    Compressor side is powder coated black





    Changing the hotside for a ceramic coated .63a/r



    I have another ceramic coated hotside, its a .82a/r - to be installed later



    Test fitting of the turbo while I was busy with the tubular manifold. Such a shame this get tucked away in the back of the bay.





    The engine bay at the moment, still busy with the wastegate dump pipe. Having a hard time to get the pipe to meet up with the wastegate and exhaust. A screamer pipe is sounding so much easier


  9. #8
    s3dave's Avatar
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    As Sam said, them pullys will end your fun quickly... Dont use them...

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    Scullies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    Ohh .. Just thought I'd write a quick thread on my 2.0ltr striker build..

    Jesus man there's at least 6 months worth of posts there to keep me busy and you whittled it down to 1post! Prawny would have got 200,000 posts out of your 1! Nice work though :-)
    hahahaha, well I have been sourcing parts and building the engine for about 6 months in the evenings and weekends (when the Mrs would let me ) so didn't feel like typing it all out again. I have done the write up on our local forum here in Dubai. VW Audi Club United Arab Emirates
    Admit it, pictures are way cooler

  11. #10
    Scullies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jezzy View Post
    nice
    ive just ordered a lightweight flywheel (f1)
    where did you get the paddle clutch from?
    thanks
    I found the whole clutch & flywheel assembly on VW vortex - cheap cheap like bird seed

  12. #11
    Scullies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s3dave View Post
    As Sam said, them pullys will end your fun quickly... Dont use them...
    Why dont they work? Is it the big horsepower thats going to be the problem?

    Just found one of bills posts with the blown red block - dont know how I missed that when I googled. Off with the pulley, think I will hang it on my rear view mirror


    Thanks Sam and Dave. This is why I love this forum, people are willing to point out things that wont work and not keep quiet and laugh when it all goes for a ball od sh!t
    Last edited by Scullies; 7th January 2013 at 11:55.

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Crank pulley needs to be damped else the crank will snap... have posted about this a few times before...

    Is this power pulley kit worth getting anyone ???

    Also... have you span the engine over yet? check clearance on the cam sprockets as you have the bolted on type and they can hit the cam chain tensioner undoing the bolts and giving you a bad day... you will need to clearance the tensioner if they hit...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  14. #13
    Scullies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    Crank pulley needs to be damped else the crank will snap... have posted about this a few times before...

    Is this power pulley kit worth getting anyone ???

    Also... have you span the engine over yet? check clearance on the cam sprockets as you have the bolted on type and they can hit the cam chain tensioner undoing the bolts and giving you a bad day... you will need to clearance the tensioner if they hit...

    <tuffty/>
    Tuffy, you a bringing up bad memories of late night mechanics - 2am LATE

    I first fitted the non vvt tensioner, and everything was great. Then I was told to use the VVT, so took it out the stock engine and fitted it to the new engine, bear in mind this was after spending the whole day removing the engine form the car, on the only weekend it rains here for the whole year. Finally got the vvt tensioner in the new engine and cams in, then as you said, bump bump bump - WTF now, was my reaction. Thought I was hitting a valve with the piston for a few moments, then spotted the bolts where hitting the VVT.
    Out with the cam and vvt, little bit of grinding on the vvt and all back in, along with gearbox on and all accessories, ready to put the engine back in the car for the next morning. I thought I was on the home stretch then. That was a month ago

    I wont lie to you, there are moments that I think about introducing Mr fuel to Miss match stick.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scullies View Post
    ...I wont lie to you, there are moments that I think about introducing Mr fuel to Miss match stick.
    ...all been there dude...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    some of those pics are down right pornographic..... i bet it's not been cheap
    1999 A3 Quattro 1.8T Pics >>HERE
    2002 A4 Avant quattro 1.9 TDi

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    Audi S3 - Stroker Big Turbo build.

    Bumble Beast 😉
    Forgot to say mate. Yes you are welcome to steal the name lol. 👍

    2001 S3 (AMK)
    AEM WMI Kit, Black Silicone Hoses, Badger5 TIP with Cone Filter, AH Fabrications FMIC, Relentless Manifold Downpipe & Sport Cat, Miltek Cat Back Exhaust, VAG Aero Wipers, Forge FMDV008 Re-Circ, Revo Stage 2 Remap with SPS+ Tweaks, 2.0 TFSI Coil Pack Mod, B&M Short Shift, RNS-D Retrofit, Brembo & B5 2 Piece Rotor Conversion

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    Scullies's Avatar
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    So much of prettiness

    004.jpg

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    www.badger5.co.uk

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    nice........... looks familiar
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  20. #19
    Scullies's Avatar
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    So had an eventful weekend,
    1-had a fuel leak in one of the AN fittings, managed to get a replacement today so that's sorted.
    2-accessories belt I got with the timing kit is not for the 1.8t - need to get correct one still
    3-scanned the car for faults and got this one - 18012-Internal Control Module-output driver IC error. I googled it and found some posts saying the ecu was fried!!!! Something to do with throttle body short circuit and frying the IC in the ecu.
    I almost slipped into a state of severe depression because I had to cut the TB harness and extended it to the hemi TB. I thought I had got the wires mixed up. Double checked them this morning and all seems ok. So I unclipped the hemi TB and connected the stock TB, scanned again, had no faults and TB alignment was possible. So tested the hemi TB again and it's turns out to be faulty, alignment is not possible and throws a different error now, something about TB mechanical failure.

    New TB on order and I await delivery.

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    www.badger5.co.uk

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    gives me more time then .............

    bad news on the tbody tho..
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  22. #21
    v5 tt's Avatar
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    Very nice build ! i was thinking of getting 83mm wiseco pistons for my stroker but
    considering paying the bit extra for the Mahle powerpak pistons

    This is the crank pulley you want ! especially if its going to be high rev
    Fluidampr Crank Pulley for Late 1.8T Engines

  23. #22
    Scullies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badger5 View Post
    gives me more time then .............

    bad news on the tbody tho..
    I think you did a sneaky voodoo dance for my TB, new one is on the way so you have a few days


    Original crank pulley is back on, fluidampr is on the shopping list.

  24. #23
    Scullies's Avatar
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    Still waiting on this TB

    I "borrowed" the hemi TB off the work truck over the weekend and started the car. Had 2 faults, one was the camshaft sensor, something about the input signal. I remembered I used the camshaft sensor trigger wheel from the AEB cams. Turns out the S3 trigger wheel is different. So fitted that and fault was gone.

    trigger wheels.jpg

    Also had an open circuit on 4th cylinder ignition coil. So I pulled off the insulation tape on the coil pack harness and found some dodgy wiring. Someone had extended all the wires by about 2 inches at the coil pack plugs. They had twisted the wires together and wrapped in insulation tape. The 4th cylinder had a corroded joint. So I cut the joints off and soldered on the new coil pack plugs and covered the joints with heat shrink and wrapped the harness in insulation tape again.
    So thats 2 problems fixed.

    I also made a bench flash harness with an ECU plug and OBD2 port, fitted and extra earth in case I ever need to boot mode the ECU.
    Hope not though

    Bench flash Harness.jpg

    There is an issue with the clutch. At idle and foot off the pedal there is a high pitch squeal coming from the gearbox area. As soon as I touch the clutch peddle the noise goes away. I think I need to bleed the clutch system some more. I think there might be some air in the master cylinder.
    Anyone have any ideas on this noise? It sounds as bad as a v-belt slipping

  25. #24
    www.badger5.co.uk

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    your boot cable is wrong. needs a switch to ecu feed... OBD must be powered all the time, only switching ecu on/off not whole thing as that wont work.
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  26. #25
    Scullies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by badger5 View Post
    your boot cable is wrong. needs a switch to ecu feed... OBD must be powered all the time, only switching ecu on/off not whole thing as that wont work.

    Really... I followed this on vortex and they don't have a switch. What is the switch used for? To simulate the key being turned on/off
    VWVortex.com - how to: build a bench flash/boot mode harness for your me7 ecu

  27. #26
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    you have to switch ecu on and off, NOT complete cable which is all you are able to do as its wired currently.
    switch off obd = no workie
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  28. #27
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    Ok now I understandy

    Something to do while I wait for the TB

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    pm sent with more info for you
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  30. #29
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    Epic build here! Subscribed :D!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo20VT View Post
    Epic build here! Subscribed :D!
    Thanks boet

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    Bench harness modification done, now with switch to turn ECU off when required to flash.

    Bench Flash Harness V2.0
    Bench harness.jpg

    New Hemi throttle body arrived as well as my base map from Badger5

    New TB is made in Germany, the other one was made in Canada. Just saying........

    001.jpg

  33. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by badger5 View Post
    you have to switch ecu on and off, NOT complete cable which is all you are able to do as its wired currently.
    switch off obd = no workie

    Not sure I agree with you there Bill.

    Both my setups are switched with the OBD and ECU at the same time, and it works fine. Only way I know it's on or off is when the led on the cable is lit..

  34. #33
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    I know for sure that there is power in my OBD port when the key is off, as all 3 different cables (rosstech, galletto & ebay clone) have a LED thats stays on and the computer is unplugged as well.
    Wonder if its different for other models of ecu's as the link I copied didnt have a switch in it and it seemed to work for him.

    When I used the NEF software to read the ecu, it didnt ask the key to be cycled. When I finally got the Galletto to work, it asked me to cycled the key to start the read and again to finish the read.

  35. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scullies View Post
    I know for sure that there is power in my OBD port when the key is off, as all 3 different cables (rosstech, galletto & ebay clone) have a LED thats stays on and the computer is unplugged as well.
    Wonder if its different for other models of ecu's as the link I copied didnt have a switch in it and it seemed to work for him.

    When I used the NEF software to read the ecu, it didnt ask the key to be cycled. When I finally got the Galletto to work, it asked me to cycled the key to start the read and again to finish the read.
    The cable gets all its power (ftdi chip) from the USB, the led on the cables is to show power to the obd port. Recycling the ignition resets the Ecu, if you try to start the car without recycling it won't, turning off then on reset the Ecu and the car will start. For bootmode you need all power to Ecu to be removed , jumper pin 24 then reconnect power, for normal flashing power to Ecu can remain.

    personally if suggest you stay away from nefmoto as it will cause you more issues, make sure you back up the 95040 EEPROM as I guarantee if you've used nefmoto then you will at some stage get the dreaded p16xx dtc and only way to fix is by reflashing the 95040 chip. If you're going to use anything use galletto as its pretty bullet proof on the me7 and buy yourself a spare Ecu! For £50-£100 it'll get you out of the sh*t when you brick the Ecu and can't bootmode.

  36. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    Not sure I agree with you there Bill.

    Both my setups are switched with the OBD and ECU at the same time, and it works fine. Only way I know it's on or off is when the led on the cable is lit..
    thats how all my bench flashing works.. revo previously.. without ecu seperate on/off, it would'nt work.. Made sense as I was switching off the obd power and comms would have ceased.

    turning off obd power turns off software to cable/ecu comms... you only want to power up ecu seperately in boot mode.
    if you have'nt done this, you have been lucky the software has tolerated the obd dissapearing. Mine has'nt been tolerant hence the switch, and 1k resistor for boot mode pin. To be fair I have always had this wired like this from early revo days when bench flashing was required, never had to wire it or power it differently for gal or any other flash tool..

    If it works like you say, fair dinkum.. every days a school day
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  37. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post

    personally if suggest you stay away from nefmoto as it will cause you more issues, make sure you back up the 95040 EEPROM as I guarantee if you've used nefmoto then you will at some stage get the dreaded p16xx dtc and only way to fix is by reflashing the 95040 chip. If you're going to use anything use galletto as its pretty bullet proof on the me7 and buy yourself a spare Ecu! For £50-£100 it'll get you out of the sh*t when you brick the Ecu and can't bootmode.
    Are you done scaring the living daylights out of me

    I will definately be using the galletto software and have a copy of the EEPROM in multiple safe locations - can you say PARANOID!

    Went to double check OBD power with key off and out the ignition.
    Galletto cable
    010.jpg

    Clone cable
    011.jpg

    RossTech cable
    013.jpg

    And a multimeter to make doubley sure
    014.jpg

    Battery needs to be charged too.

  38. #37
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    Being forewarned rather crapping yourself when the car won't start is by far the better option! Trust me having been through it before most of this made its way onto nef, I wish someone had told me first. Best £50 I spent was on a spare Ecu, which never gets mapped or touched and only used when the Ecu/laptop cable decides today is not the day to play.

  39. #38
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    boot mode on bench setup yea darren?
    power supply for its 12v yea? (13.8v bremi old cb radio psu i had, dont laugh) - lol
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  40. #39
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    bigturboS3.jpg

    Engine bay at the moment. Been working on the map to dial in the fueling, well Bill has been working on the map and I have only been flashing files and logging.

  41. #40
    Sam_'s Avatar
    Down under

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    Mar 2011
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    Bit dusty out there in Dubai then Looking good. Homebrew inlet?
    Handling mods++. GTX30 soon-ish. Hiding parts from the mrs since 2011. Build thread

 

 
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