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  1. #1
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    S3 Rear Wheel FAILED - HELP PLZ

    right so my mates just called me and said he was driving home from work and he could feel the back end dragging - he then sent me these pics




    now some history - back in nov 12 we took his car to the dyno for a power run to see what it was putting out and the car was fine no issues atall...

    when they went to dyno it they went to remove the haldex (4wd system) fuse as these need to be dynod in fwd however the fuse could not be locted as the panel was slightly different. the dyno guy removed a fuse which we beleived was the right one but it wasnt and instead caused a nasty clutch burning smell.. the car was strapped down while being driven and the back wheels were unable to turn even though they were trying to when accelerating..

    now we then soon realised that the car was stuck in permamnent 4wd, so they backed the rear wheels onto the rollers to dyno it using all 4 wheels..

    when we left the location his back wheels would lock up on tight turns, much like driving with a welded diff - now he got used to this and has been driving ike it daily until tonight he explaned what ive put above...

    saying the back wheels are like there dragging so i presumed the haldex system has failed and locked up completely but then when he sent me these images it looks like an arm could have snapped or something....

    any audi experts know of a haldex to cause this or are we looking at another issue here unrelated??
    my mate is not mechanicly minded in the slightest and im stuck at work until 7am so looking for someone in the know plz
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  3. #2
    danger S3's Avatar
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    i think that looks like a snapped rear tie bar, probably just near where it joins the back of the hub.

    the rear wheels locking on tight turns is probably the rear diff.

    someone please correct me if im wrong, this has never actually happened to me

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    Quote Originally Posted by danger S3 View Post
    i think that looks like a snapped rear tie bar, probably just near where it joins the back of the hub.

    the rear wheels locking on tight turns is probably the rear diff.

    someone please correct me if im wrong, this has never actually happened to me
    yeh i know it has a haldex problem hence the wheels locking but i wanted to know if this was related.. thanks
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    As danger said, looks like he has had a tie bar fail/break/snap/whatever.

    In regards to the haldex, I'm betting the clutch plates have welded together inside the haldex section of the rear diff causing the haldex to be permanently engaged. If they couldn't find the fuse all they needed to do was apply the handbrake and that would disable the haldex.

    It highly unlikely to be related to the tie bar failure. The cause is usually the ball joints in the hubs seize which forces the tiebar to flex in ways it wasn't designed to.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lewis583 View Post
    As danger said, looks like he has had a tie bar fail/break/snap/whatever.

    In regards to the haldex, I'm betting the clutch plates have welded together inside the haldex section of the rear diff causing the haldex to be permanently engaged. If they couldn't find the fuse all they needed to do was apply the handbrake and that would disable the haldex
    ok where can i get a tie bar? on ebay there a few hundred pound and adjustable.. stock item would suffice
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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    As already mentioned... this is related to the ties bars breaking.. the rose jointed bushes seize which cause the arms to fracture... this is not related to a haldex issue...

    <tuffty/>
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    As already mentioned... this is related to the ties bars breaking.. the rose jointed bushes seize which cause the arms to fracture... this is not related to a haldex issue...

    <tuffty/>
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    stand by, more pics being sent now and he just said some bar is hanging down lol
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    ok here we go

    is this the tie bar?

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    yep, snapped aftermarket tiebar there. Not a standard item at all.

    Hopefully the makers mark in son there somewhere to perhaps claim under warrrenty, or buy one single arm

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    Ah... an adjustable tie bar that broken....

    I have seen the nuts come loose on these before... if this happened to these then the looseness of the screwed fitting will have weakened it and obviously the result is what you see here

    I can't be sure but they look like KW tie bars... these have been reported to have snapped before by another member on here... I run these myself but I do check they are secure quite regularly...

    <tuffty/>
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    Yep. Are they KW tie bars?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Byzan Pics View Post
    yep, snapped aftermarket tiebar there. Not a standard item at all.

    Hopefully the makers mark in son there somewhere to perhaps claim under warrrenty, or buy one single arm
    hang on a minute this is not a standard item ie this item has been fitted since leaving the factory?

    sorry but im bit confused, as if these are all an aftermarket item then surley i can remove both sides and the car should be fine to run without them?

    also how easy to remove/fit are they? looks simple enough undo the shock etc??
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    Yes these have been fitted at some point after leaving the factory, probably the same time as the lowering springs.

    You will need to buy 2 standard ones and live with the camber due to it being lowered, or find out what brand it was and try to buy one as stated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Byzan Pics View Post
    Yes these have been fitted at some point after leaving the factory, probably the same time as the lowering springs.

    You will need to buy 2 standard ones and live with the camber due to it being lowered, or find out what brand it was and try to buy one as stated.
    yer just done some research and now know these are a must when lowering..

    so i see 2 options;
    1. fit stock springs and tie bars but is it worth it? ie how much are stock tie bars?
    2. get a new pair (unlikley ill find one tie bar same as this) but how easy are these items to fit?

    will i need new bushes, poly or stock?

    are these any good?
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    im pretty sure thats a modified standard bar so the weakpoints are still there. sure i read one of the forum experts sayin this about these bars when i was looking. sure someone will correct me if im wrong. saying that if the bushes are the main reason they snap replacing these might make them ok. daz

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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    The biggest problem with the std arms (and modified versions of them) is more to do with the bushes seizing than anything else... if the bushes are ok or replaced then these 'should' be ok...

    <tuffty/>
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    I have one (driver's side as it happens) KW adjustable tie bar available after my passenger side one snapped in exactly the same place. I now run the Forge ones.
    But don't know if you would want to take the risk.
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    ....I can't be sure but they look like KW tie bars... these have been reported to have snapped before by another member on here... I run these myself but I do check they are secure quite regularly...
    <tuffty/>
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcs356 View Post
    I have one (driver's side as it happens) KW adjustable tie bar available after my passenger side one snapped in exactly the same place. I now run the Forge ones.
    But don't know if you would want to take the risk.
    yes im interested in this part mate - pm me a price please


    well this is the pic i took today of the snapped bar - can anyone confirm what this part no refers to - stock or kw etc??


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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    KW ties bars dude

    <tuffty/>
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    great thanks guys - whos the uk distributor of these?
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    great help thanks, any advice on fitting one of these?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Byzan Pics View Post
    cant find a good read for one thanks

    looking for maybe a how to or something on here
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  29. #28
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reepers13 View Post
    cant find a good read for one thanks

    looking for maybe a how to or something on here
    ..then use the search facility on here or look at the stickies as I have posted how to search the site using Google to get better results..

    Sorry mate but you are gonna have to put a little leg work in ;P

    <tuffty/>
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    Quote Originally Posted by reepers13 View Post
    yes im interested in this part mate - pm me a price please
    pm sent
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    Is there anyway of checking the bushes to make sure there ok?

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    ok bumping this again...

    my mates s3 was doing 70-80 when the same side bar snapped again.. needless to say no damage other than the snapped bar..

    decided he wants steel ones now.. seen a set on ebay but can anyone recomend where else these are available please?
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    Has he checked the bushes are ok? for it to snap again it would suggest the bushes have seized...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    Has he checked the bushes are ok? for it to snap again it would suggest the bushes have seized...

    <tuffty/>
    no its not been looked at yet but it will be fixed if thats the problem also... just need to find some decent tie arms in steel to help prevent this from happening again
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    Quote Originally Posted by reepers13 View Post
    no its not been looked at yet but it will be fixed if thats the problem also... just need to find some decent tie arms in steel to help prevent this from happening again
    Yes but i think Tufftys point is it doesnt matter what the bars are made from, the issue is the bush is seized, not that bar isnt up to the job. With the bush siezed the weight of the car will be bending the bar back and forth ALL the time - accelrating/decellerating/potholes etc., and it has to give. Change the bush and an OEM bar will last the life of the car.

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    Deposit down - B6 Audi A4 1.8T (190) Sport - Daily Drive - Pajero Lwb 2800TD(the Truck - Drift Car - Nissan 180SX (S14a Front end) - FOR SALE - Subaru Impreza RB5 Ltd Edition #096 4k!!

 

 

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